Smiling Albino

Intro

Total Trip - 34 Days

Over 34 days you'll make your way from Kathmandu by air to Lhasa, the Roof of the World, and fabled capital of Tibet. You'll cross the Tibetan plateau by Landcruiser, camping at spectacular locations and feasting on gourmet meals prepared by our Sherpa chef.

Heading west you visit Shigatse, Gyatse, Lhatse and the lost Guge Kingdom en-route to Mount Kailash for a circumnavigation (kora) by foot with pilgrims around this holy mountain. Hindus and Buddhist regard Kailash as the earthly manifestation of Mount Meru, the cosmic and spiritual center of the universe and home to the Hindu Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati. With a full trekking crew you'll make your way over a 5,600m pass into northwestern Nepal along an ancient pilgrim's route.

Once in Lhasa, we have two more days to absorb the exoticism of the Tibetan quarter with its colourful pilgrims and Barkor circuit, and to explore this history-laden city. We will be expertly guided around the Potala Palace, the Barkor square and some of the most significant and ancient monasteries (gompas) in the Tibetan world by our Tibetan guide, who will instruct us on the intricacies of Tibetan Buddhism.

The adventure doesn't end here, we have only just started! After we finish the Kora we drive to the south to Purang where the Pilgrimage roads from India and Nepal meet. The next morning we cross the border to Nepal and for the next week we trek towards Simikot, through one of the most stunning valleys in Nepal, the Limi valley. The communities of the Limi valley are the most remote in Nepal and actually have closer cultural ties with Tibet. We will spend time exploring the villages and hope to see the allusive snow leopard while we trek through this little visited mountain valley towards Simikot.

At Raling we'll observe and partake in one of the most extraordinary cultural events of the Himalayas, the Raling festival, a time to commemorate the propagation of Buddhist teachings by renowned masters.This celebration is almost certain to be the highlight of our amazing adventure and a very fitting ending to an incredible month of traveling together.

Note: should you require return airfare from Bangkok to Kathmandu we can arrange it aboard Thai Airways International for about $800US. Please contact us for current prices on this flight.

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu (1400m)

We'll be waiting for you at the airport and escort you to your hotel in trendy Thamel. Settle in before we head out for a traditional Nepali feast and get to know one another.

Meals: D
Sleeping: Hotel Courtyard

You'll have the afternoon to explore Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. At dinner we check your insurance details and equipment and we will collect your passport so that we can complete the Chinese visa formalities. Then we can relax and get to know each other over dinner and your drink of choice.

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Today we explore some of the major sights of Kathmandu such as the Monkey Temple, Shiva's birth place and ancient Durbar square. Lunch will be in the old royal palace in Patan and for dinner we will head out to one of the many great restaurants in Thamel.

Meals: B,L
Sleeping: Hotel Courtyard

Day 3 - Fly Kathmandu to Lhasa (3,650m)

A spectacular flight over across the main Himalayan range brings you mystical Tibet. After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, it is a further 2 hour drive by Landcruiser to Lhasa. We stay in the heart of old Lhasa at the beautiful, Tibetan-styled Dhood Gu Hotel just meters from the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor square, where the Tibetan character of the city remains intact. It's advisable to take it easy for the remainder of the day due to Lhasa's high altitude. It is important that you also drink plenty of water while your body is acclimatising.

Meals: B
Sleeping: Dhood Gu Hotel

Days 4 and 5 - Lhasa

Over the following two days we visit most of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Afternoons will be free for you to discover the endless bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkhor square, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa. Prime sites we'll visit include:

• The Jokhang: The holiest temple in Tibet which shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue. You can shuffle along with the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, you can complete a circuit of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good luck. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted as well.
• Drepung and Sera Monasteries: Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renowned for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon by monks. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution.
• Norbulingka: This is was the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama's pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.
• Potala Palace: The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

Meals: B
Sleeping: Dhood Gu Hotel

Day 6 - Drive to Shigatse

Today we start our overland journey via Landcruiser towards Mount Kailash and Manasarovar with a scenic drive along the Friendship Highway to Gyantse. We cross the Khamba La (pass) (4,794m), from which there are stunning views across the waters of Yamdrok Tso to the snowy summit of Nazin Kang Sa. We continue westward over another high pass, the Karo La (5,045m), where we are treated to the spectacular sight of a huge glacier tumbling down to the road. After passing through beautiful valleys and colourful Tibetan villages we arrive in the town of Gyantse. At Shigatse, we visit the Gyantse Dzong and Kumbum (huge Buddhist temple). The Dzong is a fort dating from the 14th century, from which there are amazing views of Gyantse town and the surrounding Nyang Chu valley. The Kumbum is a large gold-domed stupa, and its many small chapels house an impressive array of Tibetan Buddhist murals.

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet, with perhaps the best preserved (but controversial) monastery, the gilded Tashilumpo Gompa. This monastery is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls.

Meals: B
Sleeping: The best hotel in town

Day 7 - Drive to Lhatse (4,050m)

It is 157km from Shigatse to the small, dusty town of Lhatse, where we wi'll stay and restock on fresh fruit and vegetables. From here to Manasarovar our itinerary is dictated by road and bridge conditions, and the location of good camp spots. The drivers, guide and sherpas decide where we camp so the following itinerary is approximate only. In Lhatse we meet our Sherpa camping crew who will be with us for the rest of our journey back to Kathmandu. The camping expedition starts from here - let the adventure begin!

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 8 - Drive to Sasang

Today we have an early breakfast, and then proceed on the 122 km drive to towards Sasang across the Northern Route to Kailash and western Tibet. Crossing the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra River), the road emerges to a lush river valley, where a small, beautiful Tibetan settlement warrants a quick visit. We set up camp for the night in Sasang, a small, typically Tibetan village.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 9 - Drive to Tsochen

Today's drive is a long, wonderfully scenic route along a grassy riverside valley. We reach our camp at Tsochen in the late afternoon, and are rewarded with steaming mugs of milky Nepali tea and snacks before dinner.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 10 - Drive to Gertse

Another beautiful drive, today just over 250 km, along a route which winds up through lush, green hills and is backed by impressive views of snow-capped peaks in the distance. The road finally opens out to a wide plane, and then to Gertse, where we set up our camp for another starry Tibetan night.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 11 - Drive to Gakyi

Today is a 375 km drive through a beautiful wide valley and across another stunning high pass, which brings us to the small to the village of Gakyi.

Our Nepali chef will prepare a delicious dinner to help us wind down after the drive.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 12 - Drive to Shiquanhe

This morning we start the drive by following the impressive Indus River (which eventually passes through Ladakh (Northern India) and Pakistan) for 110 km to the 'modern' town of Shiquahne, where we camp for the night.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 13 - Drive to Tsada (Guge Kingdom)

We finally reach the Guge Kingdom today! The rough road which follows the Indus River from Shiquanhe eventually leads us to a small village, from where we emerge into the Guge Kingdom after crossing a series of passes.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 14 - The excursion to Guge Kingdom

Today we make an extensive visit to the ruins of the ancient Guge Kingdom, which was founded in the 10th century and played an important role in the second coming of Buddhism to Tibet. The Kingdom thrived for 700 years, was a centre for monastic learning and possessed incredible riches, before mysteriously disappearing in the 17th century. The ruins lie at a hilltop near a snaking river, covering 180,000sqm. Houses, cave dwellings, monasteries and stupas are distributed on the hilltops and surrounding areas. Guge Kingdom is now rightly famous for its Buddhist murals, sculptures and stone inscriptions, a fusion of Northern Indian Buddhist art, Kashmiri art, Tibetan classic art and Chinese art. The White and Red Palaces, Yamantaka Chapel, Tara Chapel and Mandala Chapel are remarkably well preserved. The themes of these murals, which have survived in the arid climate for hundreds of years, include stories of Buddha, Shakyamuni, Songsten Gampo, the Kings of Guge and the court and village life of the era.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 15 - Drive to Manasorovar

Today's drive is a beauty as we pass sacred Lake Manasorovar, with spectacular views throughout. We are eventually rewarded with views of the south face of Guru Rimpoche, while Mount Kailash lies just ahead.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 16 - The Trek Begins (4,750m)

This morning we head to Darchen for formalities before the Kora. Darchen is marked by tall poles adorned with prayer flags (charchok) and the starting point for the 53km sacred kora of the mountain, a kora done by Buddhist, Hindus, Bon Po and Christians alike. Early in the morning, we meet our team of yaks and Tibetan yak drivers who will escort us around the kora, yak bells ringing. We start trekking to Tarboche which is marked by a tall flagpole adorned with thousands of multi-colored prayer flags and kata scarves strung out in radiating lines from the pole. To the west of the Tarboche is the Chorten Kangnyi, an auspicious but somewhat repulsively-decorated archway to walk through (you'll see...). Perched above Tarboche is the Sky Burial Site of 84 Mahasiddhas, a spot revered for once having been the burial site for lamas, and containing numerous sacred springs, cairns, and power places.

From Tarboche, we follow the Lha Chu river through a serene and beautiful meadow-lined valley, hopping over small streams, the west face of Mount Kailash's towering above us. The river enters a narrow canyon with high, steep cliffs and spectacular waterfalls. Midway along the trek the secret entranceway to the Inner Kora is visible to the right. One must complete 13 koras to enter. Instead we continue up the valley and the north face of Kailash comes into view just as we reach the 13th century monastery. We camp at at Dira-phuk. We camp opposite the river from the gompa, below the massive north face of Kailash. A sunset walk up to the ridge overlooking the north face is a must!

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 17 - Trek over the Drolma La to Meadow Camp - Our First Big Pass

We now leave the Lha Chu Valley and enter the Drolma Chu Valley and climb up towards a 5,630m pass, the Drolma La. Although the altitude makes the trekking arduous, we wi'll be continuously intrigued by the masses of pilgrims performing their acts of devotion along the way. The extremely devout pilgrims prostrate themselves the entire way around Kailash, kneeling down and extending their bodies and hands in front of them in prayer (and marking the beginning of the next prostration). The trail is lined with sacred sites: butter, coin & flag-covered rocks, rocks with footprints of saints, rocks to climb over, under or through, hillsides of discarded clothes as offerings and other significant sites. It's a tough climb to the prayer-flag festooned summit, but it's all worth it from the top as juniper incense burns and thousands of colorful prayer flags fluttering, sending prayers out into the surrounding valleys. Peace throughout the world!

We will camp in the valley below the pass near the Zutul-puk Gompa, 4,790m, where there are several meditation caves and a cave containing an image of Milarepa.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 18 - Trek to Darchen, Drive to Purang (3,120m)

From here, it's an easy walk along some impressive gorges and around many mani stones (stones carved with the mantra Om mani pad me hum) and mani walls (made of the mani stones) back to the Bharka Plains and dusty Darchen where our jeeps await. The kora is finished - we've erased our sins, endured cold nights and mornings, crossed one of the highest passes in the world, met countless fellow pilgrims and sent prayers of peace out to the world. Congratulations!

Sins cleansed, we drive the 130km to Purang. The drive will take us 4-5 hrs depending on how many times we stop to look at the stupendous views back towards Mt. Kailash and Lake Manasarovar. We will also have great view of Mt. Gurla Mandata and Rakshas Tal (lake).

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 19 - Into Nepal: drive to Sher, trek to Manipeme, 3,900m

In the morning we drive for an hour to Sher, the border town between Tibet and Nepal, here we say farewell to our Tibetan guide and crew. We cross the border and meet our horsemen who have been walking these trails for trade for generations. The trail takes us along the side of the ridge high above the Humla Karnali, it starts out as a climb but the landscape is now very different from that of the Tibetan plateau we have come from. From a little pass at 4,260 metres the trail contours along the side of the ridge and by mid-afternoon we should reach our campsite at Manipeme. Manipeme is named after a huge stone above the campsite that is carved with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 20 - Snow Leopard Country trek to Til Chhu, 3,580m

The early part of the day sees us traversing dramatic rock faces with great views across the gorge. We have a couple of little passes to cross before lunch the last of them offering views of the Humla Karnali as it heads sounds through an ever more narrow gorge than the one we have just come through. We are also treated to our first view of the Limi valley with the green fields of Halji in the distance. The day walk to here is probably one of the most beautiful in Nepal. From here we follow the Tagtsi Chhu (river). The going gets a lot easier after the second pass and it doesn't take long before we reach two chortens which marks the entrance to the Til valley. Across the valley we can spot the Til Gompa and we walk up the valley to explore town while our crew heads down to the river to set up camp. We explore the village and its Gompa en-route to our campsite (3,580m). We'll keep an good eye out for Snow Leopards - in 2007 we saw two!

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 21 - Trek to Sunkhani, 3,830m

It is a very pleasant trek from our Til Chhu up to the next village Halji on the sandy and grassy banks of the Tagtsi Chhu. We cross a little bridge and shortly thereafter we find ourselves in the green barley fields of at Halji, the biggest village in the valley. We have lunch and then explore the little alleys of the village which has a very medieval feel to it. We also visit the Gompa which is said to be the oldest in Nepal, it may date to the 8th century. Our camping crew will have walked on to Sunkhani (3,830m) and set up our camp, so by mid afternoon we set out to catch up with them and will arrive in camp a couple of hours later.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 22 - Trek to Tagtsi, 4,160m

Today we climb quite steeply to a stunning lake where you'll see marmots and maybe even blue sheep. We'll also encounter summer herders from all over Humla province who come up here for the summer with their cattle, yaks, goats and horses. We camp tonight at Tagtsi (4,160m) where three rivers meet.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 23 - Snow Leopards? 4,450m

Enjoy a lie-in as our walk today isn't very far. This is also Snow Leopard country so keep your eyes peeled en-route to our campsite at Nyalu La (4,450m).

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 24 - Across the Nyalu La into a different world 3,850m

We start with a tough climb and perhaps a final glipse of Mt. Kailash in the distance. We then head down passing striking Shaliman Tso (lake) before a very steep descent to the Tsong Tsa meadow with rock formations that rivals those of the Yosemite valley in the US. From here we descend past 4,000m and into forest for the first time since leaving Nepal, through Rhododendron and Birch forests to our camp at Singjungma (3,850m).

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 25 - Another Pass to Laga Dhinga, 3890m

It might surprise you, but we have another pass to cross today. The Langdog at 4,550m is not a formiddable pass, but will keep us busy for the morning. Descending we'll be able to see all the way to Simikot. We camp at the village of Laga Dhinga (3,890m).

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 26 - Trek to Simikot 2,910m

Today we return to civilisation (and a shower), but first we have a few hours of walking ahead. The trail drops out of the sky down to a stream at 2,630m. The people and houses change dramatically as we encounter Humla-style villages with their flat roofed houses and Chhetri people (who are Hindu) with their stunning jewellery, colourful clothing and beautiful faces. We finally reach Simikot, by far the biggest village we have been to for a long time! Enjoy a shower and get ready for the last few days at the Raling Festival.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 27 - Trek on to Raling

We head out of Simikot on the upper trail towards Burungtse. We now enter the Nyinba valley with its own traditions and cultures, people here are Buddhist, Hindu and Shamans but they all live together in harmony. Later in the day we walk through Torpa and Nyimathang villages which are also mainly Buddhist. A little beyond Nyimathang and a short distance from Raling we will set up camp.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 28 - Raling Festival

Very early in the morning we will hear the first pilgrims heading towards the Raling Gompa and the festival ground. The trail will be a festival on foot and horseback. We will be walking along with groups of young and exquisitely bejewelled Nyimba girls.

Our day will pass in an exuberant whirl of puja, picnic and dancing to the sound of drums and chanting. The Dhamis - oracles and village shamans - make their way up in dignified processions of white turbans and their best Chubas outfits. Although Raling is a Buddhist gompa, the people of Humla practice inspiringly tolerant forms of their Hindu, Buddhist and Bon Po religions and the communities join together in celebration.

The party will go on all night with singing, dancing and a fair bit of drinking. It is a joy to see and partake in this special festival.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 29 - Raling Festival - Round 2

In the morning people will still be dancing, singing. There will be quite a few tired eyes as some will have partied through the night. We may even see some people sleeping in some unusual places. We'll start heading back to Simikot and set camp along the way.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 30 - Back to Simikot

Enjoy a leisurely morning before a final short walk to the Nepal Trust Guest House and enjoy a shower before having a celebratory dinner with the crew. We say goodbye to the local staff who will head home to their villages and we pack-up for the flight back to Kathmandu the next day.

Meals: B,L,D
Sleeping: Full Service Camping

Day 31 or 32 - Back to Kathmandu

Depending on weather we first fly via prop plane to Nepalganj in the morning, then on to Kathmandu in the afternoon and check into the Courtyard Hotel. However as the monsoon season may have started we could get stuck for a day or two before we can get a flight from Simikot to Nepalganj. This is not uncommon and not unmanageable.

If we reach Kathmandu on Day 31 then you'll have a day to explore Kathmandu - if not, it's another day of village life.

Meals: B,L
Sleeping: Hotel Courtyard

Day 33 - In Kathmandu

Enjoy a free A free day in Kathmandu to relax and do some last minute shopping. The are good massage places and even a spa in Kathmandu if someone wants to spoil themselves after the trek. In the evening we will go out to one of the best restaurants in town and have a great dinner with tall tales of our journey being told, no doubt!

Meals: B,D
Sleeping: Hotel Courtyard

Day 34 - Depart Kathmandu

In the late morning we'll transfer to the airport for your flight. We hope you've had a fantastic adventure. If you find that you want to stay an extra day or two in Kathmandu, we can book the hotel to suit.

See you again in the Himalayas soon!

 

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FAQs

What kind of clothing & equipment should I bring to Nepal?

You'll need a reasonable variety of clothes to best enjoy your trip, from light active wear for hiking, to warmer clothes for evenings at higher elevations, and at least one nice, casual outfit for city dining. As this is a physical adventure, you may wish to bring some of your favorite personal equipment such as: bike helmet, biking shorts, biking gloves and hydration pack.

Keep in mind that Nepalese are very modest and don't appreciate visitors passing through their communities or visiting temples in tank-top shirts and shorts. Having appropriate clothing - sleeved shirts and long pants - will ensure you make the best of your adventure.

For a more on this subject, check out What to Pack.

What is it like being at altitude?

During this adventure you'll reach 5,600m for a short period of time and spend a lot of time above 4,000m. You'll notice a shortness of breath, slowed pace, perhaps a light headache and possibly a slight loss of appetite and nausea. Our guides/hosts are well versed on altitude and the challenges it can bring. There's no way to know what, if any effect altitude will have upon you. It's different for each person. Your guides/hosts will be sure to brief you on the challenges of altitude during the trip and keep a good eye on you, making sure you enjoy the trip as planned.

What about showers during the trek?

There aren't any. You'll go 19 days without a proper shower as you know it. That said there will be rivers, streams and water sources along the way to have a bird bath. You'll be amazed how well you learn to clean up with a bit of water in an odd location. You will be provided a basin of warm water daily to have a sponge bath. It's all part of the journey when you travel to these remote corners of the globe.

What if I have an accident - are hospitals nearby?

In some locations there will be no medical facilities and most we encounter are very primitive. Your guides will carry comprehensive first aid kits and we will send you a list of first items to bring before your trip. We require that all participants have emergency travel medical insurance including air evacuation. If you break a limb or have a major accident during your trip we can arrange an airlift out to seek proper medical attention in Bangkok, Thailand or Dehli, India.

Do I need any special visa for Nepal or Tibet?

For information on visas, as well as general details on customs and how to prepare for your trip, visit our Nepal Tips page.

Have more questions?

We have lots more information in our Travel Tips section that will give you an idea of what it's like to travel with Smiling Albino. You can read more on food, weather, language, history and culture, see where you'll be travelling, and maybe find a book or two that you can read before your adventure.

Visit the Travel Tips area.

 

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Trip Gallery

Upgrade Options

Need an extra night at the Hotel Courtyard in Kathmandu before or after the trip?

Extra nights at the Hotel Courtyard $55US/night.

Need time on the beach when you're done? Our Thailand beach escapes are second to none.

Smiling Albino has an extensive selection of amazing beach resorts and destinations. Check out our options and let us know if we can add a beach escape to your trip.

Flights to & from Bangkok can be arranged.

Need a flight to Bangkok before or after your adventure in Nepal?

Should you require return airfare from Bangkok to Kathmandu we can arrange it aboard Thai Airways International for approximatley $800US. Please contact us for current prices on this flight.

Need a hotel in Bangkok before or after the trip?

Either downtown or at the airport we can accomodate you.

Downtown: Majestic Grande $115US/night or the Four Seasons $300US/pp/night (double) or $600US/pp/night (single).
Airport: Novotel Suvarnabhumi $220US/night.

Like to customize this adventure as a private trip?

Any of our trips can be changed up and moved around to give you the perfect experience. Take a look at one of our custom trip examples and let us know what we can do for you.

 

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