by Scott Coates

The best beach, the best island, the best ocean. That seems to be the eternal quest for most visitors to Thailand.

Just as one venue is deemed ‘tranquil’, ‘unspoiled’ and ‘paradise’ by the guidebooks, it seems a short time later people are talking about the good old days before the droves arrived and spoilt the destination’s once idyllic charm.

The Coates family enjoying Ko Samet

But what does one really need for a great beach vacation? After all, most people visiting such beaches and complaining of them being overcrowded and over-developed are themselves adding to the masses. But, no one is willing to forgo his or her beach vacation. Perhaps the reason there are so many people at some Thai beaches (certainly not compared to most world-class beach resorts around the world) is because they are so bloody fantastic.

One Thai beach destination that has been popular with locals and foreigners for many, many years due to its close proximity to Bangkok is Ko Samet. Just three hours by car from the country’s teaming metropolis, this small island in Rayong province is just five km from the mainland, the kingdom’s driest island and home to the softest sand you’ll find anywhere ­ guaranteed.

Like most vacation spots within quick shooting distance of major cities, things are a little more expensive, but that’s par for the course. That said, it’s pretty tough to find better beach value anywhere in the world.

After being lucky enough to visit Ko Samet while leading adventures for many years, I returned with my family in February 2004. As scheduling of our 2003 adventures worked, I had not had my feet on Ko Samet’s incredible sand for quite a while due to taking more people to Ao Nang, Krabi, that year. Life’s tough when you trade one incredible area for another, but it was this visit that led me to once again really appreciate all that is Samet.

While an area like Ao Nang, Krabi, attracts crowds for its limestone cliffs that rise hundreds of feet straight out of the water and is completely unique in the world, most islands are relatively similar. That’s why it’s always been my feeling that once you find an island you like; stay there. Time spent jumping island to island has always left me wondering what exactly it is some people are looking for.

Even though Ko Samet has grown over the years from a laid-back paradise with simple bamboo huts, progress isn’t always such a bad thing. Modern conveniences have now made the island even more of a pleasure to stay on. Here are some things (in no particular order) that make it tops:

• The softest sand you’ve ever felt
• Lots of neat beaches to choose from (some busier, some really quiet)
• Only one beach has motorized water sports
• Sea kayaks for rent ­ quiet, non-polluting ocean sports are always a good bet
• Nice clean, warm water to swim and lounge in
• A very dry climate that makes most days throughout the year great beach days
• A plethora of tress along the beach to enjoy some shade
• Polite vendors that respect and understand ‘no thank-you’
• Vendors selling things you will want sometime during your stay
• Accommodations right on the beach ­ step out of your bungalow and you’re there
• Modern bungalows with hot showers, cable TV and all the right comforts
• Internet cafes (I know you’re supposed to get away from it all, but it’s nice to brag to your friends at home how great it is where you are)
• A nice mix of beach restaurants and bars to choose from
• Great fire juggling shows on the beach at night
• Funked-out bars with beach mats, pillows and candles, smack-dab on the beach
• A great trail system to take you all over the island
• Wonderful runs along the beaches during low tide
• A guy on motorbike who roams the island selling the ‘Bangkok Post’

I will stop there as I could go on for some time. The point is, in a day and age

A comfy beach bungalow

when everywhere isn’t like it used to be, is more developed and busier, Ko Samet is still top drawer. There are no high-rises on the island, accommodation is bungalow style, slightly set back from the beach in the trees and I’ve yet to ever see the beach overcrowded.

Days are best spent doing little. Find a chair, a spot under a tree, or a rock to strike a pose and take it all in. Or rather, take the lack of it all in. Stare at the ocean, read a book, cool off with a dip, have a meal, enjoy a cocktail and suddenly it’s time for bed. Days have never gone so fast doing nothing!

Having visited most of the country’s main islands and beaches, it’s easy to see why Ko Samet continues to be such a draw. Accommodation is always relatively full, but the island is always full of open space and I’ve never wanted to leave.
Next time try Ko Samet.

by Scott Coates

Long had I been dreaming of a ride down the mountain range that is home to one of Thailand’s most spectacular views, Phu Chee Fah.
Located 1380m above sea level, this sharp peak hangs over the Thai-Laos border in southeastern Chiang Rai province, providing stunning views of Laotian valleys.

Map of the route

Early morning visitors in the cool season (Nov-March) are rewarded with a sunrise unlike any other. Roughly 1000m below the peak are a sea of clouds blanketing the expanse and hills, only their peaks sticking out, looking much like islands in a sea of Cool Whip. This was to be the starting point of an epic ride.

Two years earlier I had experienced Phu Chee Fah with some friends and now found myself on an early-morning bus from Chiang Rai to Teong, about 60km down the road and midway to the famous summit.

Upon arriving in Teong, a hunt requiring an hour of patience, big smile and gift of the gab with potential transporters took place for a reasonably priced ride up the mountain. After being sent to several different locations where songtheaws (covered pickups with two benches in the back for sitting) were to be found, the third spot was the charm where I found several men, each with their own vehicle, nonchalantly waiting for passengers.

Problem – I’m the only one who wants to go to Phu Chee Fah, until a Thai couple comes upon the scene. Happy to pay more than my share, I sided with the driver and helped convince the couple that the price was fair as I wanted to get moving. My planned pedaling start-time of noon was quickly approaching.

Sitting in the back of the songthaew, I suited up – helmet, gloves, hydration backpack, sunglasses and minidisk player, anxiously awaited the summit. A few dozen windy curves later and I was there.

With a self-assembled mix of chillout music massaging my ears and scenery dazzling my eyes I wound up and down, following the sometimes-paved mountain ridge road north. At one point, a hawk hovered above, catching thermo clines and seemed to be following me for some time. Opting for a smaller lunch, it eventually dove into the trees and bid me adieu.

Small climbs were rewarded with entertaining descents and suddenly I’d already traveled 20km, arriving at a daunting 300-verticle-meter climb to a Chinese village, Ban Pha Tang.

Huffing and puffing, I chatted with some locals, enjoyed a beverage, turned down an offer to spend the day drinking at a nearby house and geared up for what they told me was a, “happy fun” descent just ahead.

I was happy, having fun and mildly terrified. For 10kms I plummeted down the mountain at whatever speed I could bare. Occasionally my brain would remind me that I’m no longer 10-years-old and realized I’m not invincible, causing me to put on the binders and bring the speedometer back into the forties. Breathless, smeared with ‘permagrin’ and at the bottom, my speedometer told why I had the words from my bike grips imprinted on the palms of my hands – I’d peaked out at 64km/hr.

With the mountains behind, a 15km pedal north through the valley took me to the hamlet of Wiang Kaen and lunch.

Stuffed, legs cramping mildly and time ticking away, there was no way to avoid the remaining 40km to my final destination, Chiang Khong.

Sunrise atop Phu Chee Fah

The next 20km followed the Mekong River, slowly snaking north with few cars interrupting its trickling silence. Maybe it was the aching legs, but ‘scenery stops’ were now happening too frequently. As the road turned away from the river with 30km to go and dusk quickly approaching it was time to get serious about peddling.

A slightly euphoric sensation came over me just before the turn off for Chiang Khong. I rode the final 20km in a semi-dazed state. This I concluded must be what marathoner’s experience. Yes, it was ‘THE WALL’. Push, push, push and what’s that? – A flat tyre, with just six km to go. A quick tube change while answering 20 questions for local on-lookers and I was off again.

Sipping a beer while perched on the deck at Bamboo Riverside Guesthouse (a stop on our Chiang Rai Northern Escape II) with proprietor Jip, I tried to communicate my exceptional day. Although impressed he was more interested in sharing another beer and catching up. Fighting heavy eyes and dreaming of the past 88km, I was in paradise.