by Scott Coates

Since launching the Nepal Grand Slam in October 2006 we’ve been lucky enough to travel the country far and wide. I’ve personally fallen in love with Nepal and maintain that if you like the outdoors there’s simply no better country to visit.

The Team in a little town along a mountain ridge

Steeped in history, bordered by the world’s two most populous countries (China & India), home to Buddhists and Hindus who live in harmony and covering almost all geographical environs (71m – 8,850m), Nepal has it covered!

Each time we visit the country to host a trip we take a couple extra weeks to explore other areas and personally indulge my love for mountain biking. I’ve been lucky enough to ride from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, visiting Everest Base Camp en-route, ride the western half of the Annapurna Circuit and do lots of riding in and around the greater Kathmandu Valley. We also led a number of custom trips in 2007-2008 that saw us try new trekking routes, notably in the Gorkha region and along the Nepal-Tibet border.

Crossing a narrow suspension bridge

A number of people inquired in 2007 wanting a trip that was more physically challenging than the Nepal Grand Slam, many of whom have enjoyed our Thailand Trek & Trail. This was the impetus for launching the truly awesome Nepal Trek & Trail on March 20 2009.

Take 3 parts mountain biking, 1 part white water rafting, 5 parts trekking, throw in some super cool hotels, 2 nights at a tented camp with a 160m bungee jump, full-service camping, world-class hosts, top-notch food and there you have it – the Nepal Trek & Trail.

One of the bonuses of owning a travel company is that hitting-the-road is literally part of your job. My business partner Daniel was good enough to give me the ‘go ahead’ and I was off to Nepal to co-host the inaugural installment with Mads, our Nepal guru who helped build the trip from the ground-up. We had a group of great people sign-on for the adventure and hit it hard.

Mountains in Tibet in the background

A Welcome Dinner at a great restaurant in Kathmandu, an afternoon visiting key sites and quirky alleys, then three days cycling up and along the ridgeline of mountains in the Kathmandu Valley took us to the very cool Club Himalaya situated atop Nagarkot, the Valley’s premier hill station. From there we dropped down 1,200m to the valley floor and along the Bhote Kosi River to the Last Resort. The next day saw us raft down the river (one of Nepal’s steepest) and one guest threw himself off the bungee jump. Then it was into the hills along small footpaths near the Nepal-Tibet border for five days of full service trekking with a crew of 18 – talk about living it up! Views abound when we hit the ridge and our high point of 3,790m was a highlight. Beers were cold when we made it back to civilization at the cozy Charikot Resort and we ate like champions on our last night in Kathmandu.

After nearly 10 years living in Asia, traveling, working with Smiling Albino and designing top-notch adventures I hope there’re many, many more to come!

by Daniel Fraser

I escaped from the office for several days on a whirlwind exploration of Isaan – and a few country bars – to survey routes and find hidden gems for a November motorcycle journey.

Stepping out into a new region like this requires first-hand exploration by SA trip planners. We eat the food, find the back roads, sleep in the beds, but most of all we try find a way to seamlessly fit the best of all worlds together in the form of an itinerary we can be proud of. This can be tedious and enjoyable in the same minute. I covered hundreds of roads, crossing most off the list, ate at dozens of restaurants and surveyed all kinds of hotels, pubs, temples and other Isaan roadside attractions. For our trips to be authentic we need to experience it all first-hand, we need to meet the cook, high-five the bartender, tip the band, find the hidden roads and make sure the pool has water in it. Sounds easy….but there’s always more to it than meets the eye.

Consider this: 22 million live in Isaan which is serviced by 3 primary airports (Udon, Khon Kaen, Ubon). The road network is extensive and finding great routes between two points can involve multiple scenarios – each providing a new adventure or obstacle, usually both.

Finding great places to stay is paramount while surveying for an SA trip – and this is particularly challenging in Isaan. You may end up with several 300km + days in order to find the type of accommodations Smiling Albino would feel comfortable using.

The mountains of Loei – and their fabulous, quiet country roads make for some superb motorcycling. Then the gorgeous route along the Mekong River all the way towards Nong Khai means there can easily be 3-4 days of nice riding in the region. However, anything between Nong Khai, Udon and Nakorn Phanom is a lot of driving for little reward in terms of accommodation. There are very few accommodation option within 1hr of Udon or Nakorn Phanom to make an eastern loop worthwhile, and ending a trip at either location would be a downer after the great mountain rides in Loei, and the lovely scenery along the Mekong.

The key to success for a two-wheeled journey in this region is finding secondary roads in good condition – which is also particularly challenging in Isaan. There is no shortage of good food, rhythmic country music and good cheer. Isaan has an endearing charm – completely on its own terms – that in itself is worth the journey.

Trying to summarize six, 14-hr days is best done by mentioning a few must-do’s that will figure into future SA motorcycle trips in this region.

the flat, curvy road along the Mekong, Loei

Top 5’s for motorcycling:

1 – the long route from Wang Saphung (90min west of Udon) south through the Phu Luang Mountrain Range is stunning – and the road is one of the best motorcycling (or biking) routes I’ve seen in Isaan.

2 – the classic ride from Chiang Khan nearly all the way to Nong Khai; 150km of wide turns and broad river views.

3 – the elevated rural road south of the Phu Tok Temple all the way down through Sri Songkram and emptying out in Nakorn Phanom. If you have the time – and can handle a night of dull accommodations – this is a great country ride. Spotless road, great reservoir views, and quaint towns with good food along the way.

4 – the long road into Udon from Sakhon Nakorn, following secondary roads south of Udon through the millions of rice fields and villages.

5 – Smiling Albino’s new shortcut 30km before Chiang Khan through a series of postcard-worthy villages and brilliant green pastures.

Top 5 SA-approved places to stay if weaving it together on motorcycle

1 – the Loei mountains, of course, are a real draw, so a couple of nights here in the more atmospheric places like Phu Pha Nam and Chachanat Woodland Retreat are worth a night or two. Some daily motorcycle sorties would be outstanding from either location.

Mekong Villas Thai House, Loei

2 – Mekong Villas Baan Huai Faen

This hideaway has all the exclusivity and regal charm of Chakrabongse Villa in Bangkok. Superb location 150km before Nong Khai along the Mekong and 34km from Chiang Khan.

3 – Green Gecko and Gecko Villa near Udon is another great find. Private, classy country home with luxury finishings and a beautiful Thai home neslted in the forest.

4 – If golfing……Victory Golf Club south of Nong Khai has comfortable rooms on the golf course, so a decent view, and around a pool, so a short stroll for a dip. Not fancy, but not a highway motor inn either.

5 – In terms of service with a smile, great food, real coffee, exclusive river views and people who seem to care what they are doing, the Mut Mee Guesthouse in Nong Khai is a winner. Probably not the right fit for Smiling Albino trips as the lack of mini bar and pool / spa could throw the SA Team and our guests into a spin. Nong Khai Resort, though an odd location, has the amenities lacking above – but of course lacks the charm and location of the Mut Mee.

A few must-do’s that will figure into future SA trips in Isaan

1 – The Adventurous Side

Excellent motorcycling, gorgeous hikes, treacherous staircases, fun country bars, the Mighty Mekong and a well-planned itinerary means you’re in for a supreme good time in Thailand’s wild northeast.

2 – The Spiritual Side

Sala Kaew Koo, Wat Phu Tok near Sri Wilai and Wat Phanom, of course, are very good excuses to make long day loops out along the Mekong for a little slice of nirvana.

3 – The Gastronomic Side

The heart and soul of Thai / Lao cuisine…..with some occasional intestines and dancing shrimp thrown in!

Isaan food is superb and will be a focal point on any SA trip out here. From street-side “nam tok” stands to the more elaborate garden-style restaurants, Isaan is a culinary adventure.

4 – The Musical Side

Country music bars: this is the real deal in Isaan where music is as deep as religion. Isaan music, particularly “maw laam”, has an almost hypnotic bounce to it that makes for a fun night out. Sprinkling some “music for life” or pua cheewit into the mix absolutely means you’ll have fun in the small towns of Isaan.

5 – The Lighter Side

Let’s face it, Isaan involves a few more bumps and grinds than the rest of Thailand, and as a visitor you’ll need to learn to laugh at yourself, and others, with the same genuine goodness as the locals.

by Scott Coates & Daniel Fraser

Chiang Mai while physically small in the minds of most travelers prior to visiting is in reality quite a sprawling area. Constantly on the move it offers a host of activities, attractions and lodgings, all helping to propel it onto the international travel scene. Known as the kingdom’s cultural and design capital many visitors are wowed by stunning architecture both old and new, much of which is in traditional ‘Lanna’ style, referring to one of Thailand’s early kingdoms dating to thirteenth century.

The stunning Four Seasons Resort

Selecting a hotel is rarely an easy task and in the day and age of hotel portals the sheer volume of choices can be overwhelming. Smiling Albino’s policy has always been to only recommend hotels we have at the very least personally inspected and hopefully slept in the room, felt the sheets, tried the shower and asked for extra towels to see how the service rates. Having done this we’re proud to share some of our favorite Chiang Mai hotels in various categories. All offer great value and span the experiential arena.

Crank out the platinum card

Four Seasons Resort
It’s all in the name and this property is everything you would expect from one of the world leaders in hotel service and delivery. Located roughly 30 minutes north of the city center on a gorgeous piece of land looking at the mountains, rooms and enormous villas are set amongst a private rice paddy with wandering water buffalos on staff. If it’s away from the hustle and bustle with great service and food you crave, look no further.

Dhara Dhevi Mandarin Oriental
Best described as its own little kingdom, this sprawling property covers 60 acres with 124 suites (no standard rooms here) and has been designed from scratch to look ancient. Temple roofs spire upwards with many in Thai ‘Lanna’ and Burmese styles, there are rice paddies, buffalos, temple squares, shops, and it goes on and on. Chose from the Colonial Wing or Thai villas, all of which are huge, beautiful and sure to take you to another world. Located about 5km from the city center exploring is also rather easy.

Where it’s at

Rachamankha
One of the classiest, stylish and well-thought-out hotels, this is our

The Rachamankha is one of our favorites

favourite, making it the best value hotel in its category.  Located within Chiang Mai’s city moat exploring is right out your door, but leaving will be tough. Designed by an established Thai architect every corner, hall, ceiling and piece of furniture has been personally selected and designed with specific intensions. With only 24 rooms it’s a very intimate atmosphere and you’ll quickly slide into a very ‘sabai’ (relaxed) world.

The Chedi
Part of the GHM hotel group, the emphasis here is new and chic. A large, modern building set on the banks of the Ping River, it reeks of modern cool from the moment you approach with smooth lines, water gardens, subtle colors and a calming ambience. Spacious common areas, two great restaurants and our favourite happy hour make this a place to talk about.

Bang for buck

Shewe Wana Resort
This smallish, personally designed property is 500m east of the Ping River, making it an ideal place to strike out and see the city. Lush gardens, a small pool and cute rooms make this our favourite value in the city if simple fits the bill. A nice spa is also attached, a perfect treat after a day sightseeing.

Arun Tara
Situated along the banks of the Ping River about two kilometres from the famous Night Bazaar, this hotel opened its doors and 28 rooms in early 2008. Mostly white design with dark black accents creates a modern atmosphere with thoughtful Thai touches. This is one of the best value rooms in the city with a very slick edge.

Tamarind Village
A long-time Chiang Mai favourite located in the heart of the old city, this is a solid choice. Stylish and calming, it was designed by the architect who created the Rachamankha, with a large Tamarind tree as its centerpiece. With less than 50 rooms, it maintains a small feel and is a relatively good value. Great for families.

Mountain Magic

Proud Phu Fah - calm and cool

Proud Phu Fah
Conceived and operated by a former advertising creative director, this self proclaimed ‘hip’ resort is perfect for a true mountain escape. Located about 45 minutes north of the city along the Mae Sae road, two or three nights will wash your stress away. Modern, glass villas are situated on a small mountain with a large common area, great coffee, tasty food and a very relaxed atmosphere. Elephant rides, waterfalls and other activities are very near by too. Check-in and check-out.

Smiling Albino is pleased to arrange stays at any of the above mentioned hotels, along with air transport, airport transfers, guides/hosts and any other services you’d like to make your time in Chiang Mai perfect. Pillion motorcycle rides, ghost walking trips, a day with legendary travel writer Joe Cummings and art/design outings are also some of our specialties.
Send us an email (info@smilingalbino.com) to make your Chiang Mai escape reality.

With a plethora of hotels in the ‘City of Angels’ it can sometimes be tough to separate the wheat from the chaff and make the best accommodation decision. That’s where we come in. Part of the added value that Smiling Albino brings to our guests is that we have personally visited every hotel we recommend, have sat on the bed, felt the sheets, tried the lights and snooped around for all the small details that come together to ensure a total-quality experience, regardless of budget.

A view from The Oriental at night

Following some recent hotel inspections and numerous inquiries from our guests, we thought it would be fun to rank some of our favorites based on a variety of categories. Here’re some of our picks:

5-star Glamorous – $300US++/night

1) Mandarin Oriental
In terms of fine details and deep history, there are few places on earth that match the splendor of the Oriental. Situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, treat yourself to a legendary stay at least once in your life – it invigorates the senses. The location and access to everything can’t be beat.

2) Sukhothai
A very Thai experience in a very cosmopolitan city. The Sukhothai inspires the idea that all things Thai go hand-in-hand with luxury and class. The hotel features great artwork throughout the property and some of the finest suites in town. Not an ideal location if you’re into walking out the front door an immersing yourself in Bangkok, but ideal for business travelers or those being picked up and shuttled about by handlers.

3) Shangri-La
Always considered the younger sister to the Oriental, the Shangri-La arguably has equally stunning rooms, service and ambiance. The purposeful layout of the hotel and the expanse of the lobby area make it an incredible place to dream away an afternoon.

4) Conrad
A luxury hotel with a fun, sassy edge. Outstanding room design and creative use of wood, silk and glass compliment generous open spaces. An SA team member stayed the night and commented that the ambiance of the room was extraordinary, the service divine and food sublime.

5) Four Seasons
The Suites and Premiere rooms are the way to go here for sure. Certainly the classic finish that comes along with everything the Four Seasons does is reason enough to stay, at least once. As a downtown hotel, you’re as close to the action as it gets, be it the Skytrain, shopping malls or open markets.
Value for Money – about $100US or less

The very comfy Majestic Grande

1) Majestic Grande
Chic, well appointed rooms in an ideal location make this hotel the best value for money in Bangkok. Noted for outstanding service, they have a variety of room classes covering the full gambit. The Majestic Grande Suite ($600US) is worthy of an award for all time greatest bachelor party rooms.

2) Bliston Suwan Park View
Another ideal location for down-towners. Generous room size, top-notch facilities, and a warm sense of at-home comfort, score high at Sommerset Suan Park. It has more of an executive apartment feel than a hotel, which is exactly why it gets so many repeat visitors.

3) Reno Hotel
A budget gem tucked inside a little street near Jim Thompson’s House, the Reno is sort of an art-deco, upscale guesthouse. Excellent access to the streets, Skytrain, canals, make this is a winner. Rooms are comfortable yet simple, but tough to beat the price-point and still have a nice swimming pool with helpful staff.

4) Ibrik
The Ibrik is so tiny that we can’t really call it a hotel. It’s more of a micro-boutique house on the river with unbeatable views, surrounded by palaces and temples. You’ll never have a cozier room and better view in a wild location.

5) Pathumwan Princess
Located in the heart of the city, Pathumwan has the largest fitness room and largest pool of any hotel in Thailand. Located in MBK Shopping Center, next to Siam Square, it has the best access to boutique shopping in the city too.

Insider’s Exclusive Experience

1) Chakrabongse Villa
In a class of its own, Chakrabongse gets our vote for simply the coolest place to stay – regardless of budget and needs. An early 20th century Thai prince made this house on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, now it’s a gorgeous private luxury hideaway nestled amongst the most regal real estate in Asia. With only three main rooms this is also our vote for the best place to stay with a significant other.

2) Arun Residence
We love evening drinks at the upstairs bar at night with incredible views of Wat Arun across the river – a huge feature here. A cool, funky, great little hideaway, go for the Arun Suite to get a more reasonable room size with private balcony. Earthly cool and close to the ground, Arun is hidden at the end of a charming side-street near Wat Pho.

3) Eugenia

The Eugenia is very cool

Not exactly a Thai experience, we’re taking creative license on the category breakdown here anyway. An English colonial-style mansion erected in the Sukhumvit retail district of Bangkok, Eugenia is outstanding for private events and a neat ‘colonial-feeling’ stay. Gorgeous artwork and English/Chinese/Indian antiques are scattered throughout. Be sure to request one of their vintage cars to pick you up at the airport. Great for a big family or two to rent out entirely.

4) River View Guesthouse
If you can actually find it through the serpentine maze of streets through Chinatown you deserve an award. The rooms are simple, beds average, but very few places in town can compete with River View’s character. It has arguably the nicest unobstructed view of the river from the rooftop too. This place attracts an eclectic clientele including budget travelers, long-termers, and even movie producers.

5) Atlanta Hotel
One of the coolest and strangest places in town. Over half a century old, it’s a Bangkok institution. Inspired by 1930’s theatre sets, The Atlanta is an art-deco hotel owned by the family who built it – and it features the first hotel swimming pool in Thailand! Their clean tourism mantra is impossible to misinterpret and the period-furniture, fixtures and purposeful feel of this hotel is something all ‘Inside’ visitors should experience. The rooms are not luxurious by any stretch, but good vibes of The Atlanta make most of their guests repeat ones, decade after decade.