Some shots taken on September29, 2009.

See more photos here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Bangkok/Bangkok-at-Night/8247721_EzRe8#539446776_JYbsj

City Pillar

The Grand Palace

Phra Sumen Fort

Rama V Statue, Royal Plaza

See more photos here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Bangkok/Bangkok-at-Night/8247721_EzRe8#539446776_JYbsj

by Bank Takaeng

An essential dish, both in homestyle cooking and at restaurants. Pak Boong is a very common vegetable in Thailand, as well as other South East Asian countries.

Ingredients:
Smashed garlic – 2 tablespoon/ 30 ml.
Oil - 3 tablespoon/ 45 ml.
Smashed chilies – 3-5.
Salted bean paste - 1 teaspoon/ 5 ml.
Oyster sauce – 1 tablespoon/ 15 ml.
Water spinach – 20 stems.
Water – 1 tablespoon/ 15 ml.

Preperation

• Lightly smash the chilies. Smash the garlic and remove the skin. Set aside. Wash the water spinach and shake it dry. Prepare the vegetable by breaking off the leaves at the base, and then breaking the stems with your hands at about 1.5″ intervals. Leave the top last part of stem intact with the top 2 leaves on. See picture to the right for an example.
• Heat your wok to high, throw the garlic in, stir quickly until it just starts to turn light brown. If your pan is hot enough, this should be less than 10 seconds. Then throw the vegetable in with the chilies. It should sizzle like crazy. Flip the vegetables and spread out a few times to make sure they evenly cook. Then add the water, bean sauce & oyster sauce, and stir for maybe 1 more minute, until the vegetable is finished. They’re done when the leaves are dark green and wilted and the stem is medium green. Don’t overcook, or they’ll taste bad.

This recipe will serve 1-2 people.

by Scott Coates

Our driver heading out of the canal

Mae Khlong, a typical small Thai city in the central province of Samut Songkram (the birthplace of King Rama II), just at the mouth of the Gulf Thailand is a neat place.
It’s not far, about 80km from Bangkok, but it’s really different. You’re outside again, in the great outdoors, things smell like outdoor stuff too. The smell of the sea pervades the air and you could probably follow your nose to the Bight of Bangkok.

During a September trip with some of the SA Team while putting together the innovative Bangkok 1910 trip, we had a visit to the Mae Khlong Mangrove Conservation Project. Tucked in a mangrove forest, locals live in homes built on stilts along the final canal which runs into the ocean. A combination of the Kwae Noi River and Kwae Yai Rivers, flowing through Kanchanaburi, Ratchaburi and Samut Songkram provinces then dumping into the gulf, this canal is a very special area. Back in 1511 when the Portuguese rolled up to the ancient Siamese capital of Ayuttthaya (1350 – 1767), about 120km up the larger, but nearby, Chao Phraya River, they would have encountered a thicket of tangley mangrove trees at the mouth of the river. A curious tree that grows best in thick mud, in about a meter of salt water, these trees are kind of like a garberator, Elmer’s glue, a home and coffee filter all in one.

The pros showing how it's done

This delta is home to lots of life such as crabs, shrimps and fish which lay eggs in the roots of the trees – great protection – and even monkeys. It’s an important part of ecological system filtering garbage before running into the sea, a source of medicinal herbs and provides great protection to inland communities from the ocean during storms.
The trees have also been a victim over the years of humans. Chemicals from factories and especially prawn farms running off have caused massive deterioration, to the tune of more than 80,000 Rai (about 26,000 acres) being lost by 1990.

In 1995 the Mae Khlong Mangrove Conservation Project was established by HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn with the help of the government and private sector. Since that time more than 24,000 Rai (about 8,000 acres) of forest have been recovered, mainly by the communities living in Baan Leam Yai and Klong Klone.

Planting mangroves

The project creates profits from two streams – members of the community gain employment from planting trees, managing the eco system and taking visitors on trips.
During our visit we learned about the project from its director, cruised in a longtail boat out into ocean to eat in a purpose-built bamboo hut, enjoyed an after lunch swim, then the best part – skiing! Planters use a smooth wooden sled to kneel on in the very muddy water while planting trees, and they give visitors a chance to try riding on it behind a longtail boat. It’s a lot like snowboarding and quite a good laugh.

Visits can run from two hours to multiple days and they host a good number of corporate groups who come to do extensive planning.

Being just 100km from the bustling city of Bangkok, it’s easy to get here, a world away and truly a fun and unique Thai experience – even after having lived here for 10 years. Want to experience it? Join our Bangkok 1910 trip.

See you at the Gulf!

by Bank Takaeng

One of Thailand’s most famous soups, this rich dish combines spicy and sour, delivering a cornucopia of flavor.  A Thai classic from your friends at Smiling Albino.

Ingredients:

• Chicken Stock – 3 cups / 710 mL
• Coconut cream – 3/4 cup / 180 mL
• Fresh chicken thigh, chopped, bite size – 7 oz / 200 g
• Salt - 1/4 tsp / 1.25 mL
• Kaffir lime leaf, whole – 2 leaves
• Bird’s eye chili pepper, sliced - 6-7
• Coriander root, sliced - 1
• Young galangal, sliced - 2 tbsp / 30 mL
• Lemon grass, sliced - 1 tbsp / 15 mL
• Fresh lemon juice - 1 tbsp / 15 mL

A tasty soup

Preparation:

• Combine chicken stock and coconut cream, add kaffir lime leaves, coriander root, young galangal, lemon grass.
• Bring to boil for a few minutes.
• Add chicken pieces to soup, let boil and cook for a few minutes.
• Season soup with salt, fresh lemon juice and chilies.  Taste occassionaly for spiciness.
• Remove from heat, serve in bowl and garnish with coriander leaves and fried chilies.

This recipe will serve 2-4 people.

Note:
Always wash your hands after handling chili peppers!  Be especially careful not to touch your eyes.  If you coat your fingers in cooking oil before you begin cutting it will help keep the chili from coating your fingers.

Read the rest of this entry »

by Scott Coates

While looking at our Nepal Adventures and photos from travelers there, a few shots from my March 2009 visit with my parents caught my attention. These were shot in Patan, just outside Kathmandu. Enjoy!

Rashita working at Newa Chen, Patan

Don & Sharon looking out from their room at Newa Chen

Sharon resting by her window at Newa Chen

Checking out Patan's sites

Peering out her window

A very neat temple's stupa

Patan's Durbar Square

by Scott Coates

Thailand is famous for markets. Small, large, along roads, under tin roofs, on canals, there’s a plethora of them. One of the most unique markets is Talad Rom Hoob, or the Railway Market. Located in the center of a small city, Samut Songkram, located about 80km southwest of Bangkok, the market is one of the city’s modern claims to fame.

Situated just a few kilometers from the Gulf of Thailand along the Mae Khlong River, which is formed upstream by the Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai Rivers from Kanchanaburi, the economy here revolves around fishing and agriculture. Water is the lifeblood with 391 major canals serving as transport lanes for small paddle boats and daily life. As the birthplace of King Rama II, the second King of the current Chakri Dynasty (Rama IX is the current King), the province has been a longtime tourist destination for Thais, but is catching on with foreign visitors.

Sandwiched between the bus and train stations, literally on and along the train tracks, Talad Rom Hoob is a one of a kind that must be seen to be believed. Like most Thai food markets, vegetables, fruit and ready-to-eat dishes abound, with prices per kilo clearly displayed and everything being very fresh, fresh, fresh. The train tracks serve as the walking area for customers until of course the train comes…

The Mae Khlong Route which runs from the town of Mahachai (about a 1 hour journey) has been in operation since 1901, serving as a vital lifeline between the Gulf of Thailand and Bangkok. With modern highways and the popularity of cars not as many people use the train today as once did but it’s still quite popular with locals going between the two centers, many of who connect to a second train in Mahachai which goes to the capital. The ride is free for Thai citizens as a government service and 10 Baht (about $0.30US) for foreigners – a true bargain and great way to see some nice rural scenery on the way.

The train makes the journey four times per day in each direction and when it pulls in or out of Mae Khlong Station the real fun begins. Vendors scamper to fold up umbrellas, awnings, pull their stalls back (most are on wheels) and make sure their goods do not get run over by the train. They have the process down to a science and it only takes about 30 seconds to set up or tear things down. The train literally hangs over vegetables as it goes by with retailers knowing how close to the tracks they can leave things without them getting damaged.

The market is a great stop after visiting one of the many floating markets nearby (Damnoensaduak, Aphawa, Tha Kha) as you can easily pass through Samut Songkram on your way to/from Bangkok. To find the market drive through town and stop at (not on but nearby please) the train tracks which you have to pass over when driving through town. Walk down the tracks towards the sea and you’ll walk right into the thick of things. Truly a unique market and experience.

Want to see the market in the most comprehensive and fun way possible? Email Smiling Albino and we’ll make it happen.

by Scott Coates

The image of women in colorful clothing, wearing large woven hats, plying their wares from small boats, is an iconic Thai image.

Until roughly 30 years ago canals played a much larger role in daily Thai life than they do now. People lived along their edges, relied on them for transport, washed their dishes, clothes and selves in them. They truly were the lifeblood of communities – the highways of yesteryear. Progress has its price and many canals, especially in city centers, have been filled-in and paved-over since the early 1980s, making way for cars and a faster paced life.

While tourism posters for Thailand regularly feature pictures of floating markets, few remain and even less are truly authentic. The most famous, Damnoensaduak floating market, is located just over 100km southwest of Bangkok and is open seven days a week. It’s not much more than a bunch of shops built on land along the edge of the canal, selling the same tourist souvenirs you’ll find on any corner in Thailand, but you’re paddled around on a boat. If seeing a floating market is a must and your travel days limited, this might be the only option. Other, more authentic options do exist though.

While designing a new Smiling Albino experience, Bangkok 1910, which will focus on Bangkok and its greater basin from the perspective of 100 years ago, we visited a lesser-known floating market that recently caught our attention.

Tha Kha floating market (named after a long water grass native to the area) is also about 100km southwest of Bangkok and midway between Damnoensaduak and the town of Samut Songkhram. Follow a series of signs 6km from the main Rama II highway and you’ll quickly slip back in time as you make your way over canals and through lush palm plantations. Until recently Tha Kha only opened six days per month: on the 1st, 7thand 12th days of the Thai Lunar Calendar, which change month to month. Recently they’ve decided to also open every Saturday and Sunday in an effort to attract people wanting to see a real, authentic floating market. This is a welcome addition to the overcrowded and overdone floating market scene of the last 20 years.

Starting about 06:00 until roughly 11:00, mostly women row small wooden boats from their canal-side homes to Tha Kha. Traditionally people would meet to trade produce and sell extra to neighbors and friends. This is still the case here. Buy a snack and watch as vendors trade with each other in between selling to visitors along the canal’s edge. Here the market comes to you. Boats are equipped with scales and lots to sell. One wonders how they get it all there without tipping? From a boat selling one simple item like cucumbers, to one equipped with a gas burner selling hot noodle soup with all the fixings, it’s truly incredible what can be done with and from a small wooden boat. Slowing down is the best way to enjoy the market. Take a seat, stand on the bridge over the canal, sample lots of snacks and be amazed at this traditional activity as it was way back when.

A nice addition is the recently formed association of boaters in the area who offer charming paddled excursions through small subsidiary canals. Sounds of birds fill the air, the air is thick, lush palms are everywhere and you’ll see people living much like they have for hundreds of years.

Less is definitely more then it comes to Tha Kha. There are about 50 boats over a rather small area, but this is the real deal. Lets hope the extended days of operation don’t bring the tour buses.

Want to go to Tha Kha with Smiling Albino? Send us an email and we’ll make it happen!

See some more photos from the market.

by Scott Coates

Smiling Albino gets a good number of emails from people asking about a possible visit to Kanchanaburi province’s Tiger Temple. Officially known as Wat Luangta Bua Yannasampanno Forest Monestary, the Tiger Temple gained fame in recent years after being featured on Animal Planet and other television stations.

Front of the temple's website

Located about 3 hours drive west of Bangkok the temple was opened in 1999 by monastery Abbot, Archan Poosit. The temple now has about 20 tigers who call it home. Archan Poosit was diagnosed with leukemia in 1976 and thinking he would soon pass away joined the monk hood. All these years later he is now the head of this interesting and quite controversial temple-attraction.

Residents are Indo-Chinese tigers (tigris corbetti) and are native to Thailand, Laos, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia and Southeast China. The first tigers came by way of poachers who had killed their mothers along the Thai-Myanmar border and then were sold as cubs. Other residents have come from a variety of sources including private sources, zoos that couldn’t care for them and a good number have also been purchased. Poaching is still a major problem and one tiger can fetch about $6,000US on the black market.

The Tiger Temple is a rather huge center for controversy – are they well cared for, are they drugged, is it a tourist trap? While I won’t cast judgment here, lets take a look at things learned searching online:

Many report the tigers appear dopey and allege they must be drugged to keep them docile and happily posing for photos with visitors. The temple’s website explains that tigers are nocturnal by nature and therefore rather slow during the day. They’ve also been raised by humans most of their lives leading to their docile behavior and apparent non-aggressive nature.

Hanging with a tiger

There’s a lot of noise that the temple is nothing more than a for profit zoo. The temple’s stated cause is to care for these endangered creatures, provide them with a safe place to live and hopefully in the future be able to release tigers into the wild that will be raised without human contact on their new Tiger Island. It seems money does add up with visitors paying roughly $15US to enter the grounds and more to get a photo with these magnificent felines. The temple was also granted zoo status no so long ago, meaning they can now freely operate, charge admissions and actively seek more tigers. They are in the process of acquiring a white tiger which will surely boost visitor interest.

If you’re really interested please spend some time searching the Internet for articles/opinions about the temple and decide for yourself if a visit is really of interest. Also view one of many videos of the temple that can be found online.

Residents at play

Some quick facts to help you decide if you want to visit the Tiger Temple:
•    It’s very unique and has a good number of tigers.
•    You can get really up close and personal with these mighty creatures.
•    Where else are you going to get a picture with a tiger?
•    No one has ever been attacked by a tiger there.
•    The temple does generate profit.
•    They do purchase tigers from private sources.
•    No tiger has yet to be released into the wild as they lack the skills to fend for themselves due to being raised by humans in captivity.
•    The tigers do appear docile and dopey.
•    There are lots of visitors (up to 1,000/day), so expect lines and crowds.
•    It’s a three hour drive from Bangkok to the temple.

Wat Luangta Bua Yannasampanno Forest Monestary (Tiger Temple) can be found at:
Saiyok District, Kanchanaburi Province
Thailand, 71150
Tel: +66-34-531-557
Fax: +66-34-531-558
http://www.tigertemple.org/Eng/index.php