by Bank Takaeng

Cashew nut looks like a small mango. The name in Thai refers to the mango of paradise (Himaphan means the Garden of Eden). By its meaning, this dish is a culinary of heaven with a bit spicy (I assume that people in heaven may not like to eat something hot).

Ingredients

• Sliced chicken breast – 1 cup / 240ml.
• Sliced onion – 1/2
• Peeled and crushed clove garlic – 2-3
• Sliced into pieces (approx. 1 inch) spring onions 3-4
• Cashew nuts, deep fried until golden brown – 10-12
• A large red dried chili, deep fried and cut into 4 pieces.
• Oil – 1tsp / 1 ml.
• Chicken stock – 1/2 cup / 120ml.
• Sugar 1 tsp / 5ml.
• Oyster sauce – 2 tblsp / 15ml.
• soy sauce – 1 tsp / 5ml.

Preparation

• Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat.
• When it is hot, add the garlic, onion, and chicken. Stir until the chicken is cooked about 2 min.
• Add the spring onions and cashew nuts. Stir to combine and remove from heat.
• Garnish with deep fried chilies and it ready to serve.

This is served for 2-3 people

by Scott Coates

It had been some time since I’d been to Ko Samui. One of Thailand’s best known islands, it’s been a tropical paradise destination for travelers for the last 20 years. Once entirely coconut plantations and jungle, word got out, people took boats over, beach bungalows were built and groups slowly grew into crowds.

Fast forward a bunch of years, renovations of original bungalow complexes, many of those turned into simple concrete huts, then proper buildings and now world class resorts, an international reputation and airport and there you have it – Ko Samui 2552 (2009).

The plane touched down at 06:50, I was in my rental car by 07:30 and

Ko Samui is paradise

searching madly for coffee by 07:50. There were no coffee shops open. All closed. I guess no matter how big and island gets as a destination, some habits die hard and not even in swinging Chwaeng Beach was there a place to grab some hot roasted beans in the early morning. In paradise and no basic elements to start my day – I would have to grab a cup at the first of 11 hotels I was to inspect that day to put together Ko Samui Beach Escapes.

The first hotel was supposed to be 5-star, hip, cool and new-concept but tanked. The manager missed our appointment; I sat for 20 minutes and was not offered a coffee (when would I get one in my system!) then after asking to be shown around by someone, was sent out with a girl on her second day working there. How can I recommend this place to guests even if the rooms were pretty nice? Not on our list!

Second stop: new, sleek, trying to be a back-to-nature property that is quite nice. Still held together with a lot of concrete, but lots of bamboo and they don’t really have a good beach at the resort, something that is surprisingly prevalent in places like Ko Samui and Phuket. It’s almost like the more you spend per night, the smaller the beach or further away your room is from it. Nice, will work with this second property as it’s in a nice price-point, but I still don’t have a coffee.

Montra's comfy bedroom

Montra Samui was a pleasant surprise and I was offered a coffee within a couple minutes which by now is what I was really interested in. Breakfast was offered (very appreciated and wanted) but declined (due to time constraints to get everything done), the staff were shining and I had a coffee in my hand while seeing the property. I was impressed. Just eight rooms make up the Montra, it’s a 15 minute walk from Lamai Beach, there’s not much outside its walls but it’s nice, run with style and by friendly people that care. If it’s a nice place to sleep, relax and enjoy some meals but you don’t want to blow the budget and don’t need to be on the beach, then this is a good option.

A few uninspiring places (no offers of coffee either), mainly due to being by run by staff that have not been trained in running higher-end establishments or ones pretending to be, cheap finishings all around, and the quick impression to the trained inspecting eye that they’re nothing more than a $60US/night room with a calming slap of paint, some nice bath foam next to the shower and the word ‘spa’ tagged on the end of the name. Certainly not worth the $200US+/night they were asking. Off the list.

Bring on Poppies, a property I’d heard of from friends that write guidebooks,

Poppies is very comfy

long term residents and those in-the-know. It’s been around for nearly 20 years, is small but has class. The lobby is old-school and really unimpressive. I almost wanted to leave after having trouble finding someone to help me. I then met the manager, had a nice chat and he walked me into the grounds which are in the back along Chwaeng Beach. Twenty-something tasteful units are set amongst lush gardens, their restaurant’s popularity has swelled due to extremely good taste and the beach is exquisite. And, all in the heart of what is supposed to be noisy, overrun Chwaeng Beach. Not at all – sign me up!

Each room is unique

Relais & Chateaux (R&L) is a unique property brand I only came to know since working in Thailand. Their Chiang Mai property, the Rachamankha is one of our favorites in the kingdom and one we love putting our guests at. Truly a one-of-a-kind, steeped in tradition and class. Karma Kamet became an R&C member in November 2009 and why is obvious. No R&L property is like another R&L property and great attention to design has taken place here. Each of the 12 rooms are unique, obviously furnishings hand-purchased and you’re not sure where you are – certainly not in a small building on Ko Samui’s north shore. A really neat vibe for the author penning her next work liberally splashed with dips in the ocean.

It’s neat to see locally grown brands make it. The Anantara seems to be

One of the island's nicest pools

doing just that. Started by the country’s most famous foreigner-come-Thai-come-business man, William Heineke, the Anantara struck to provide 5-star, truly Thai services and experiences throughout the kingdom and they’re doing it. Their Golden Triangle location has been a long favorite, there’s another handful around the country and they’re sure to become a well known name worldwide soon. Their Ko Samui location is no exception. One thing that really stood out during my time on the island is that things are overpriced compared to other beach destinations like Ao Nang, Ko Phi Phi and Railay Bay, Krabi, Ko Chang and Ko Samet. You pay about 50% more here than other spots, but close to the price at Phuket. When you calculate service, room quality, environment, quality of beach and others, the Anantara is a no-brainer if you have about $200US/night to spend and want to be comfy. I wish I could go for a week right now.

Luxurious through and through

Tongsai Bay was first brought to my attention by a friend writing a travel book when I asked about sure bets on the island some years ago. It’s one of, if not the original luxury property on Ko Samui. Time has served it well, unlike so many beach hotels I drove past, the lobby wreaks traditional beach charm, rooms are timeless and well-appointed, and the amenities/facilities top-drawer. They even have regular and adults-only swimming pools. And the beach is very nice too.

What else could I expect from the absolute best from the Four Seasons? I

Simply the best

couldn’t envision a beach hotel from them as I had to date experienced their city and mountain properties in Thailand, but they nailed it. From the moment you arrive at their purpose-built reception area atop a cliff overlooking the ocean, you know you’ve arrived. A buggy ride down a super steep path and across the hill brings you to the villas. And boy, are they special. Everything has been thought of, included, procured and at your disposal. Beach – incredible and private. Rooms – exquisite. Spa – wild. Fitness center – tops. You name it, it’s here. No reason to leave at all, ever. But I still had more places to see.

The aforementioned properties were listed from least to most expensive, but not necessarily from least to most admired by the writer.

Let us arrange your Ko Samui Beach Escape.

Albino Smiles – December 2009/2552

Adventure Highlights

Smiling Albino News

Posts and Pictures and Flicks

More Connections & Bookmarks

by Scott Coates

During my first visit to Cambodia in 2004 my friend James, an editor with the Cambodia Daily introduced me to a tuk tuk driver, Mr. Phy. Slightly different from Thai tuk tuks, the Cambodian version is a cart towed behind a motorcycle. The cart is much like a chariot and can seat four foreigners or roughly eight locals, not including the driver. It’s remarkable the load a small motorcycle (usually about 150cc) can pull and that these vehicles don’t overheat and burst into flames on a journey. A neat modification that helps the engine cope is an inventive water-drip-cooling system, which consists of a container of water that has a slow drip right onto the engine. Very basic but an effective system.

While in Phnom Penh in 2004, Mr. Phy beamed with a larger than life smile

The legendary Mr. Phy

when we first met at the airport and he’s greeted me with one every time since. We’re the same age, thirty-six; he has three children and like many of his countrymen is short of money and hard working. His smile, friendly demeanor, reputation for being on time and trustworthiness make him a favorite among expats living in the city and for good reason. Whenever I go to Phnom Penh he’s the first person I call. He picks me up at the airport, stops to get me a cold beer on the way into the city and is eager to send me around during my stay. It’s great having friends abroad. I’d trust Mr. Phy with my family, girlfriend – they just don’t get much better than this.

Off to Siem Reap in 2004 and I had the good fortune to meet another wonderful person, Mr. Sophoan. Also a tuk tuk driver, he spoke some Thai which made him an obvious choice to drive me around to hotels for the day while doing inspections. As I don’t speak Khmer and he doesn’t speak English, his Thai abilities were a bonus and we hit it off right away. He’s three years younger than me, has three children and like Mr. Phy has had a difficult life and is chronically short of cash. He spent 10 years in the 1990s doing construction in Bangkok, hence his Thai abilities. His honesty shone through immediately, we exchanged phone numbers, stayed in touch and I called him for rides every time I went back to Siem Reap. Unfortunately in 2006 his phone number no longer worked and we lost touch.

In December 2009 I returned to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to see some hotels, check out restaurants, meet with contacts, train guides and make sure all our trip elements were as good as they could be. Mr. Phy was my man about town (as usual) in Phnom Penh and will soon have to find a new place to live due to the main lake in town being filled-in for property development (it makes less sense than you think). Already strapped for cash he’s in for a tough time ahead. Many of his customers are secretly collecting money to help with the eventual move. His money woes aren’t anything to do with him personally; rather he’s a victim of the economic realities/challenges of where he was born. He’s likely harder working than I am, works more hours than I, but still can’t get ahead. Life isn’t fair sometimes. Strange how where you are born, something we can’t control, impacts so much of who we are and how our life will play out.

Standing in front of a fantastic bakery in Siem Reap, the Blue Pumpkin, I was waiting for some friends. During about 10 minutes, driver after driver approached; asked where I was going, offered to take me places I didn’t want to go and on it went. I was working really hard to keep smiling, be polite and ignore the monotony of unsolicited approaches, keeping in mind the tough economic challenges tuk tuk drivers face. Sure enough, the moment I lost my cool with the umpteenth person to approach, he kept talking and said, “Are you Mr. Scott with Albino?” Low and behold it was Mr. Sophoan who somehow remembered me after three years. Boy did I feel like an ass and what a great lesson to not lose one’s cool and try to remain empathetic to all. It was like the Buddha himself put this lesson in front of me.

Mr. Sophoan and his three daughters in front of Angkor Wat

Delighted to see each other we spent some time catching up and he was my driver for the next couple days. Seems he had to sell his mobile phone in 2006 and has not had money to buy one since. Times are still tough for him, his third child is about to enter school, which costs him about $1.50US/child/day. That might not seem much but a good day driving his tuk tuk brings in about $10US, leaving little money for food and other costs.

Despite times being obviously tough for him, his face looking thin, he was full of life, had a permanently huge smile and couldn’t do enough to try and make my time there smooth. We shared a meal together, caught up on one another’s lives and again it stuck me how unfair where you are born is. I’ve had life easy. Grew up in a safe environment, never had to flee my country due to genocide and had things so good I went around the world to try living somewhere else. Mr. Sophoan on the other hand couldn’t afford a mobile phone, an important tool in his trade.

The last day in Siem Reap I gave him one of Smiling Albino’s mobile phones that we give guests during their trips with us and money to buy a SIM card. Total cost was about $40US, not much for me, but a large amount for him. We parted ways, I asked him to send me his phone number via email or sms when he got a SIM card and wondered whether I would hear from him again. I’m sure the temptation to sell the phone was large and the money much needed. I was delighted to receive an email from him yesterday with his new phone number and in the message he called me his older brother many times.

Strange how life works, the cards we’re dealt and while we have so much control over our destinies, how little control we have over where in the world they start. We’re all people, same amount of blood; all require the same amount of food/water per day and have similar core needs. In reality, our lives could not be much different and the struggles we face further apart. The wonderful thing about travel is that it brings us together and enables us to learn about one another. I now have two friends a world away who I would never have known had it not been for travel. This opportunity to be friends, spend time together and learn about one another, our differences, and more importantly similarities is no doubt one of life’s greatest gifts.

by Scott Coates

A few pictures from a recent dirt biking trip with friends in Chiang Rai province. You can see the full gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Motorbiking/Chiang-Rai-Dirt-Biking-Nov-09/10498248_GZJik#728643509_36h7H

Derek blasting through

Greg in the hills of Doi Mae Salong

Sa-ngiam cruises

Sa-ngiam & Greg getting close to Doi Chang

Along the less-traveled path

Three amigos: Derek, Greg & Scott

See the full gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Motorbiking/Chiang-Rai-Dirt-Biking-Nov-09/10498248_GZJik#728643509_36h7H

By Daniel Fraser

December 5, 2009

I was in Ho Chi Minh City (generally still referred to as Saigon by locals) recently exploring some new ways to see the city as part of our Vietnam Grand Slam adventure. When Smiling Albino designs city day trips we always look for unique features to showcase the history and people, but we also try to gain insider’s access to certain areas and forge relationships with locals so that our guests experience something deeper – and more fascinating – than simply a well-organized stroll through the main sites.

So, while in Saigon last weekend I was trying to uncover the truth behind a couple of urban legends. For many years I’ve read about the famous photograph taken on April 29, 1975, the day before Saigon fell to the communists, which became one of the most compelling images of the American War.

the original image captured by photographer Hugh Van Es, April 29, 1975

The quick facts of the photo are this: it was taken by Hugh Van Es, a Dutch photographer working for the American press covering the war in 1975. The image shows people scrambling up a ladder from a distance in order to reach a US helicopter perched on top of a building. When the photo appeared in papers around the world the following day it was erroneously reported that the photo showed Americans evacuating the US Embassy, a fact which the photographer tried for many years to correct. Certainly this mistaken reporting pleased the Vietnamese government as it fit their agenda more than the truth, being that the photo is really of Vietnamese escaping from the roof of an apartment a few blocks from the US embassy where several US covert officers and Vietnamese staff were located. The old US embassy in Saigon (renamed Ho Chi Minh City shortly after reunification in 1975) was eventually torn down 15 years ago.

When some reporters, especially the photographer himself, were allowed back into Vietnam in 1990, many of them went searching for the location where the photo was taken, but by this time the roof of the Caravelle hotel had been transformed, and the direct line of sight was marred by foliage. I think the idea came into being that if authorities reported the building had been demolished and re-built, it would put an end to the intrigue, and close yet another unusual chapter of cover ups and historic revisionism that has constructed much of what we know about the war.

Anyway, curiosity led me to search it out last weekend in the hopes it might add an interesting element to our trips in Saigon.

my shot of the existing rooftop in 2009 from a fire escape of a building half a block west

The photographer’s notes indicate he took the photo from the top of a hotel several blocks south, and that the address of the apartment for the evacuation site was 22 Gia Long Street. After the new regime took control of Saigon most of the city streets had their names changed and Gia Long Street become a distant memory. I had read that the building was torn down years ago around the same time as the old embassy and this was confirmed by several locals as well as a few western expats who had followed the story. Whatever the rumours, it turns out that the former Gia Long Street was changed to Ly Tu Trong Street sometime in 1976, and that the Vietnamese government probably perpetuated the story that the original photo took place on the roof of the US embassy in order to dramatise the American demise in Vietnam.

After some snooping around at an art gallery on the corner of Ly Tu Trong Street, I was able to climb out onto the fire escape and up to the 5th floor where I found a perfect view from the west of the famous rooftop elevator shaft captured in the iconic photo. Further curiosity brought me to befriend the building superintendent, and after a couple of gifts and a lot of waiting around I gained access after closing hours to the rooftop itself for a few moments.

a direct view with my face directly in front of the rooftop.

The image with my face in it (I just climbed climbed 6 flights of stairs) shows the original view from which the photo was taken, albeit directly in front compared to a half mile away. A US government agent in Saigon in 1975 wrote that in order to support a possible helicopter evacuation they hastily reinforced the elevator shaft with steel beams a few days before the evacuation. Why these trival details stick out in my mind I’m not sure, but the caretaker confirmed this little fact – and it is one of the reasons that the same elevator cabin is still in use 35 years later, instead of a new one, due to the limited space around the shaft supports to allow for a replacement.

Clearly I’m no detective, but this image and the story has intrigued me for years and it was a fun caper tracking down the details last weekend. Call it trip research – or a personal obsession – in any case SA guests have another neat story after their trips with us in Vietnam!

a north-view from the cafeteria of the HSBC bank a few blocks north. This view would be opposite of the original photo, which we can see now is blocked by the large construction project with green scaffolding behind.

Ultimately I guess it is these little discoveries that I hope make our adventures more interesting.

For some interesting background on the photo and the events leading to it, here’s a link to a story by the photographer: http://www.mishalov.com /Vietnam_finalescape.html

by Bank Takaeng

It is a bit difficult to cook, it may because of bamboo, banana leaf and charcoal. But after it’s done, you wouldn’t believe that you have just made the fantastic Vietnamese food yourself.

Ingredients:

• Lean pork shoulder – 1kg.
• Sugar – 3 tblsp/ 45ml.
• Fish sauce – 4 tblsp/ 60ml.
• Chopped shallot – 30g
• Sliced spring onion – 50g
• Peeled and chopped ginger – 2 cm
• Chopped chili – 1
• Bamboo Tube (25x7cm) – 2
• Banana leaf – 2
• Kitchen string

Preparation:

• Slice the pork shoulder thinly.
• Heat sugar in a heavy pan with low heat, then stir until the sugar has melted and turn golden.
• Remove sugar from heat and stir in the fish sauce, return to the heat and stir until they are completely blended.
• Marinate the sliced pork with the sauce you have just mixed with shallots, spring onion, ginger, and chili for 30 minutes.
• Cut bamboo into 2 pieces lengthwise then clean, and clean banana leaf. Line the inside of the bamboo with leaf.
• Stuff the pork into 2 bamboo halves and cover with the other halves. Wrap banana leaf tightly around the bamboo, tie with kitchen string then grill on an charcoal fire for 20 minutes
• Serve hot with some rice noodles or plain rice, coriander leaves and a very light fish sauce.

This is served for 4

Recently passing the 10 year anniversary of moving to Thailand you get to thinking. Thinking about all kinds of things. Big, small, things done, lessons learned, places visited.

Chiang Rai province, the northernmost of Thailand’s 76 is my favorite. There’s just no beating it if you like the mountains. It was our first choice for a northern adventure playground when we moved here and all those years ago. I’m still dazzled.

Trails: paved, dirt, double track, single track, shale, mud, sand, I love finding

Riding towards Doi Chang

them. I love riding and exploring them. Nothing gets me jazzed quite like that. Heading just a few km into the country and a few off the regular way and you find it, quickly. Small villages – people doing their thing as they have for ages, gorgeous backdrops and rich smiles. They’re everywhere. Go by, take it in, trade a smile, gesture, word and everyone’s the richer for it. That’s the base of travel. The core, main ingredient – mutual exchange.

Stay where you want, spend a ton doing it, eat at the fanciest restaurants, sleep in a hovel, eat fried race day after day, count every dollar, but the real memories, the real value are the exchanges. They can’t be bought. They can happen, take place, occur, be arranged, but they can’t be bought. Twenty villagers in costume waiting to perform traditional dances upon your arrival is hardly the same as the glow of someone asking your name out of sheer curiosity when meeting, the eyes exchanged while paying for a $0.25 item, the kindness of being handed fresh fruit in the country from farmers while cycling by. These are the real moments of value and something we’ve been fortunate to have experienced and live most days. What a great thing.

Really out there

Dirt biking on small, rugged paths SE of Chiang Rai city, passing fields/huts/houses I’ve seen a good number of times, I’m grinning. I’m still grinning after 10 years of traveling here. I’m still loving these scenes, the experiences, the exchanges. It’s been six months since my last visit, the longest drought during my time in the country. Hosting a couple friends on some favorite mountain trails for a couple days of dirt biking and mountain biking, it’s still a thrill, a treat, I’m still dazzled by this truly remarkable province.

Chiang Rai, often referred to as the Gateway to Indochina, China’s to the

Picking a narrow path at Doi Mae Salong

north, Laos’ to the east and Myanmar to the west. Only modern-day borders define formal lines  but this area has always been one of migrants, traders, socializing and transporting. Thai, Ahka, Lisu, Lahu, Tai Yai, Muser, Karen and on it goes – mixed people living together, happily. Mixing, trading, marrying and now you have it, a terrific and diverse bunch of people. The social landscape of one of the friendliest places and still my favorite in Thailand.

What a treat to enjoy something time and time and time again, to the core, for the people who live, work and call it home.