The Sofitel Metropole Hanoi is often mentioned in the same sentence as the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok or Raffles Singapore.

Vintage fleet at a vintage location

The Metropole, built in 1901, is Vietnam’s grand dame of hotels whose famous white neo-classical facade has become one of Hanoi’s primary landmarks.

I have visited and inspected the hotel on many occasions, and Smiling Albino recently hosted European celebrity media for a series of events at the hotel in early 2010. During May 2010 I had an opportunity to experience the fullness of the hotel as an in-house guest, and The Metropole delivers on multiple levels.

Originally built by two French investors at the turn of the 20th Century, The Metropole has been under the management of Accor’s luxury arm, Sofitel, for several years. The original building, known as the Old Wing or Classical Wing, has been lovingly restored and features 3 room categories:

Old Wing Grand Luxury

Luxury Room (32sqm), Grand Luxury Room (37sqm), and The Legendary Suite (70sqm). These rooms are for the romantics, the nostalgia fans, those wishing to celebrate the colonial grandeur of Indochina. Period artwork and photographs line the walls, and the Old Wing gives the air of a luxury French mansion for heads of state, authors, and dignitaries.

The New Wing is a 7-story addition on the opposite side of the pool and garden area. Completed in 2007, it features stylish, neoclassical rooms with brilliant colour and lighting schemes. The New Wing still carries the air of colonial French influence, with internal shutter windows and replica claw foot bathtubs and wide hallways. The rooms feature wood and carpeted floors with fresh, tropical colours, pink, scarlet, mauve. Overall the New Wing rooms feel slightly larger and brighter than their vintage sisters in the Old Wing. Located on the side of the hotel closest to Hanoi’s gorgeous Opera House, the New Wing is also referred to as the “Opera Wing”. New Wing Rooms feature four categories: Premium Rooms (32sqm), Grand Premium Rooms (48sqm), Prestige Suites (64sqm), and the hotel’s top room, the Grand Prestige Suite (176swm).

Opera Wing Grand Premium Room

My favourite in this category is the Prestige Suite, which features fresh colours and a creative room layout, a half-wall separating the bathroom and lounging area, and a large bedroom with contemporary furniture featuring a perfect blend of colonial and Vietnamese styles.

Old Wing vs New Wing

This a “Coke vs Pepsi” debate that doesn’t have a definitive answer, and ultimately comes down to taste. The “Classic Wing vs Opera Wing” debate has gone on in the Smiling Albino office as much as the “Mandarin Oriental Bangkok vs Peninsula Bangkok” debate has. The Metropole’s Director of Rooms commented in fun that, “…the Old Wing is for lovers, the New Wing for artists…”.

Old Wing (also known as Historical or Classical Wing) rooms are located on the original three-story building of the hotel. They feature high ceilings, French window shutters, dark wood and period lamp shades, desks and accessories. There is more of a museum-like atmosphere, with a beautiful original wood staircase, open lobby with oil paintings, and a vintage telephone-booth sized elevator. The New Wing is a dramatic contrast as you exit the lift onto the floors with fashionable designer wallpaper and brilliantly striped carpets and furniture. There is a flair of Parisian hipness in this part of the hotel, and the New Wing rooms are a little more cutting edge, taking advantage of natural light and modern design innovations. The Old Wing rooms are more nostalgic, elegant, and subtle. Neither lacks luxury or class. The beds, bathroom fixtures, electronics are top drawer and the fines level of luxury.

Recommending which room is right for you and for your trip is serious business.

Smiling Albino recommends room types with an eye to our guest’s overall program, taking into account where else they are staying in Vietnam. For example, if guests are also going to Dalat and staying at the palatial Sofitel Dalat Palace , then in Hanoi we’d recommend New Wing rooms at The Metropole as the Old Wing rooms would too closely resemble the vintage colonial feel of the Dalat Palace. Same applies for La Residence in Hue, or Majestic Hotel in Saigon. Both offer an early 20^th Century classical French-style grand hotel. However, if staying at Pilgrimage Village in Hue, which is a modern luxury reincarnation of a traditional Vietnamese village, and staying contemporary in Saigon, then perhaps the Old Wing Rooms at Metropole Hanoi provide the colonial checkmark for the full deck Vietnam hotel experience.

As a general rule:

New Wing:

“Dish me up some designer-cool with a subtle stroke of colonial class. We thought Mandarin Oriental Bangkok was okay, but we’d prefer The Peninsula Bangkok next time around.”

Old Wing

“Forget the fancy contemporary flair as we can do that anywhere, we want to step back into the grandeur of colonial Indochina. Besides, we loved Mandarin Oriental Bangkok and can’t get enough of it.”

Last point, I did notice the New Wing rooms had a slightly younger crowd, there were designer jeans and fancy shoes. The Old Wing crowd featured a bit of everything, but generally a little older, fewer iPhones.

Swimming Pool with a view to the Opera Wing

The pool, spa, fitness room, restaurants are of course in a league of their own in Hanoi. Even if not staying at the hotel, some afternoon drinks in the Bamboo Bar around the pool is a must, as is Le Beaulieu for a quick peak and absolutely Angelina’s Bar for multiple cocktails and Hanoi high society intrigue. This is a local hot spot for events and business gatherings, and fashion shows, etc.

Smiling Albino was recently selected by Clarins Cosmetics Co. to host a retinue of top French media in Vietnam during their orientation to The Metropole’s Le Spa, which features Clarins’ wellness products. The spa is world class and deserves a visit for a treatment. One of the best in Vietnam.

Meet us for a drink in Le Club!

There are some outstanding top end hotels in Hanoi, not forgetting the sleek new Intercontinental Westlake, and the Sofitel Plaza, as well as old favourites the Hanoi Hilton and Sheraton. In addition to being the most storied hotel in town, Metropole Hanoi is right in the heart of the action just a few blocks from the lake. The Metropole has no equal in Hanoi, which comes at a price, but the overall experience can’t be discounted.

Smiling Albino can arrange rooms and services at Metropole Hanoi at competitive rates, and as part of your customized Smiling Albino adventure in Vietnam.

by Scott Coates

A gig at a previous Jazzmandu

In October 2006 I arrived in Kathmandu for the inaugural installment of the Nepal Grand Slam, our first trip outside Thailand. That first night, Mads, our Nepal Team member extraordinaire took me just outside the city proper to the Gorkhana Forest Resort and a hotel which was then a le Meridien for a concert that was part of Jazzmandu 2006. It’s still one of my favorite memories of Nepal after many trips and four years later.

Started in 2003, the festival is entering its sixth installment having missed a couple years here and there. The brainchild of Chhedup Bomzan of The Upstairs Jazz Bar, one of Kathmandu’s top spots to drink, eat, listen and be merry, the festival has a pretty cool and straightforward mission statement: To put Kathmandu on the International Jazz Circuit.

A gig at Patan

The festival is most of all a collection of musicians, most not well known, who love music, travel and Nepal. Venues range from small – Upstairs Bar to larger but intimate like the Patan Museum. It’s the venues that really make Jazzmandu special. Taking in a concert at a venue that’s hundreds of years old, sitting atop a small brick wall that was built by hand as temple roofs gleam in the background is something that can only be in Nepal.

Having been born in 1973 I missed out on large concerts like Woodstock and the collection of interesting people who met at such events. My one night at Jazzmandu is the closest I’ve ever been to that. That night at Gorkhana I met diplomats, hotel owners, international reporters, NGO workers, locals and musicians all together for the love of music, the country and the company of others. It was one of the friendliest atmospheres I’ve ever known.

A gig at Upstairs Bar

Having missed a year in 2009, Jazzmandu 2010 is on track for October 28-November 2 and Smiling Albino plans to be there. We’re currently modifying the Nepal Grand Slam for a special one-time installment that will take guests to all the gigs, then on a brand new trek in the Annapurna Range. In addition we’ll also be offering a shorter six-day trip that will concentrate on Jazzmandu and sites in the Kathmandu Valley. This event is simply too good to miss and something to be part of before it’s a major stop on the international jazz circuit.

Jazzmandu’s founder Chhedup has been driving Smiling Albino guests around the capital on his Royal Enfield motorcycle since our first trip, has been an outstanding host to us at Upstairs Bar and has guaranteed this year’s festival is going to be the best yet.

Keep your eyes peeled on our website for these two special trips which are sure to sell-out quickly. I hope to see you there!

Photos courtesy of: http://jazzmandu.org.

Smiling Albino co-founder Scott Coates recently attended the Mekong Tourism Forum in Siem Reap, Cambodia from May 7-8, 2010.

We hosted a fun Tuk-Tuk Adventure after the final Gala Dinner. Here are a few pictures.

Tim tries his hand at the Throw a Flip Flop game

Some participants from Vietnam making spring rolls

A Khmer team in their tuk tuk on route to the next event

Adventurers at the end of the night on Pub Street

Chris, Joe, Mason, Nick, Erika, Scott & Ann

Chef Sang demonstarting how to make Khmer spring rolls

Smiling Albino was quoted in the Phnom Penh Post about the Forum.

Be sure to check out our Cambodia adventures too!

by Scott Coates

Phnom Penh (PP) is one of those places that sounds exotic, strange and conveys all kinds of wild images to travelers, especially if you’ve never been there. And it is all those things. With a storied history, most visitors go to see the notorious S21 Prison and Killing Fields, truly chilling but highly worthwhile stops.

The city is a collision of the working poor, the ruling rich and lots of foreigners working for non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and the

Drinks at the FCC

United Nations (UN). As a result PP is a city of two worlds – one for locals and one for foreigners making foreign salaries. All this foreign money buzzing around requires spending and we foreigners love to drink and dine.

While you wouldn’t initially think of PP as a top place to enjoy food and drink, it’s a wonderful place to do so. As there are foreign residents from around the world calling it home, there’s almost every kind of cuisine on offer, and at very affordable prices compared to the west. The same can be said of places to relax, drink and party the night away.

Bangkok truly has everything but when I want a fun weekend indulging on food and beverage I jump a flight to PP, meet up with friends and let the good times roll. Here are some of Smiling Albino’s favorite haunts:

Food
FCC: 363 Sisowath Quay, 023-724-014
While a stop on most travelers’ list, the FCC is well worth popping in to, be it for a relaxing drink or tasty bite to eat. Enjoy the breeze and great river views. A bit pricey but a perfect place to see and be seen.

Friends: 215 Street 13, 012-802-072
Eating has never been so helpful! Friends takes street kids and trains them in the hospitality industry with all profits going to support the training of more people. Eat, eat, eat!

Java Arts Cafe: 56 E1 Preah Sihanouk Bvld., 023-987-420
Near the Independence Monument, this café/gallery serves awesome sandwiches, sweets and coffee. Closed on Mondays.

Rooftop patio at Tamarind

The Tamarind: #31 Street 240, 012-830-139
Mediterranean food is the order of the day – a seriously tasty establishment and healthy too. There’s a good number of bars nearby for after dinner drinks too.

Freebird: #69 Street 240, 023-224-712
Fancy a bit of Americana then this is the place. Burgers, beer and a truly western atmosphere make this place a favorite of the expat community.

Beverage
Maxine’s (Snow’s): Tonle Sap Rd, 012-200-617, closed Mondays
Known as ‘Snow’s’ you’ll need a local ‘in-the-know’ to get here. Without a doubt one of the most unique places you’ll ever drink at. Over the Japanese Bridge, down a dark road and you’re there. A wild décor, balcony overlooking the river and funky host ‘Snow’ make this an insider’s gem. You’re likely to come back for seconds.

Equinox: #3A, Street 278, 092-791-958
A lounge, bar, gallery and one of the city’s hottest nightspots, you’re sure to make friends and enjoy great beverages.

Café Metro: Corner Sisowath Quay & Street 148, 023-222-275
A very modern lounge/restaurant that truly exemplifies modern Phnom Penh – come and rub shoulders with the city’s upper-crust. Great place for mojitos and wine.

Rubies: Corner Streets 19 & 240, 012-823-962
Dark reds both in bottles and on the wall make this a soothing place to sip

Freebird's novel toilet freshener

wine and really chill out. There are a good number of other places nearby making a night out easy.

Elephant Bar: inside Raffles Hotel Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, 023-981-888
One of the city’s oldest bars and most upscale, enjoy half-price drinks during happy hour from 4-8pm and mix it up with the expat community and well-healed travelers.

Zeppelin Café: #109C, Street 51 (next to Walkabout), 012-881-181
The theme is rock n’ roll spun from vinyl. A laid-back atmosphere, cold beer and great Chinese dumplings make this a good place to rock-out.

Fancy hitting some of these places in style? Sign-on for our magical, six-day Classic Cambodia trip!

by Scott Coates

Bangkok, Thailand was once known as one of the wildest, craziest cities on earth. And then it started developing. The main obvious growth has been in essential services/infrastructure, moving from a third world to second world country and a rapidly growing middle class. With development comes refining laws, coming in line with what the developed world considers proper, one of those things being night life ending about 2am, something I never thought I’d see here.

Backtrack about 5 years to a time when Taksin Shinawatra’s Thai Rak Thai

The author doing research

party was firmly in power and a few ministers in his cabinet decided to go on a moral crusade against drinking and late night fun. Seems despite having a reputation for nightlife and tourism being one of the Kingdom’s top sources of foreign revenue, drinking, dancing and having fun past 1-2am was no longer deemed appropriate by the government. Since that time Bangkok’s bar opening hours have been all over the board and without much rhyme or reason. Sometimes they closed at 1am, sometimes at midnight and then on another night they could stay open until 3am.

Lets be clear, I love this country and all it has to offer. That said, it’s a bit of a shame that there’s no consistency and Bangkok’s closing hours are often earlier than those in my conservative home city of Calgary, Alberta. Calgary open later than Bangkok?!

An interesting result of the earlier closing times for bars has been the emergence of roadside bars along Bangkok’s main thoroughfare Sukhumvit Road. From about Soi 1 (side street 1) all the way to roughly Soi 23, from midnight onwards, carts are rolled in, speakers, chairs and plastic tables unpacked and temporary bars set up on the sidewalks. Seems with all those people being kicked out of bars, still full of energy and thirsty, entrepreneurs have jumped in and filled the void. What you now have is an energetic bunch of small bars, well stocked (they have Jack Daniel’s, Bacardi, etc), run by enthusiastic people (strangely a majority of them seem to be lady boys – not sure why) and they serve until about 5am! So how/why do licensed bars have to close early and fly-by-night bars on the side of the road get to stay open until very late? That’s a good question.

Like anywhere in the world, corruption is a part of life and often in the developing world more so. While I haven’t done any official surveys as to how/why street side bars can be allowed to operate and do so until very late, the consensus seems to be that they are allowed to with unofficial authorization from the authorities. Monitors don’t see what’s going on, concentrate on the licensed bars and their closing times, then don’t visit Sukhumvit Road. A bit of incentive to not look ensures these mobile bars stay open.

That’s great news for those of us who enjoy staying out a bit later than 1-2am, but a sad situation for licensed bars and a city that once had a good image as a metropolis with great nightlife. Here’s hoping we can take it back indoors one day soon.

by Scott Coates

While Thailand’s beers, Singha, Leo and Chang are tasty, I prefer darker ales when available. In fact my favorite beer is almost as dark as they come.

My love affair with Guinness began back in 1993 during a visit to England. It was hardly love as I remember having to plug my nose to drink what tasted awful at that time. For some reason I got it in my head that Guinness was a special beer that if I applied myself I would come to like. A handful of forced glasses, a few years of age on my part and it’s now my favorite beer – period.

When I moved to Asia in 1999 there were only a few places in Bangkok that

The author enjoying a pint

served Guinness and it was expensive – about $10US/pint. Occasionally I treated myself to the odd pint but it was a rare thing. During the Rugby World Cup in 2007 Guinness dropped in price to about $5US/pint and my love affair was reignited. Over the last few years the number of pubs serving Guinness has grown considerably around the city much to my and travelers’ delight.

While we expose our guests to as many things Thai during Smiling Albino adventures we well understand the need to replenish one’s iron levels and enjoy a creamy pint of thick black goodness now and again. While Smiling Albino has not had a Guinness at every establishment in Bangkok serving it (we’re getting close) we have some favorites to share. When you’re in the City of Angels and in need of a pint, try these places:

The Dubliner
Perhaps Bangkok’s best Irish Pub, the décor is cozy, staff friendly, pub food tasty and they serve a nice pint of Guinness. Ask them to take their time on the pour and they’re more than happy to prolong it. Tuesdays are a perfect day to indulge as they have a promotion where your first pint is full price and subsequent pints are 100B/each ($3.5US).

Gulliver’s
They have several locations around the country but the Sukhumvit Soi 5 location is my favorite due to their patio. Despite being a hot country there are few patios in Bangkok. Gulliver’s has a large one and the crowd on Soi 5 is very interesting to watch to say the least. Friendly staff, pool tables inside, sports on large TVs and a diverse menu make this a good place for everyone.

Soi 8 Pub & Restaurant
A little gem tucked in Sukhumvit Soi 8, this place feels like any pub overseas. Nothing fancy, but good pours, a decent menu and pretty good band keeps things moving at night. It’s best at night and again they’re happy to take their time pouring the pint if you ask.

The Roadhouse
A huge restaurant/pub located in a prime location, The Roadhouse has it all – food, sports, foosball, and yes, Guinness. Three floors make up this large meeting place that focuses on barbeque foods and they do it well. While one of the more expensive pints in the city it’s a nice place to relax for a while before hitting the town.

Mojo’s
A bit of a different place that’s definitely not for everyone, if you’re looking for music, a dark room and coyote dancers, this is the place. Featuring friendly staff, pool tables, a decent live band and of course Guinness, this is a fun place to see a slightly darker side of Bangkok – worth a visit for at least one pint.

If you’re in need of an international beer (please try a few Thai varieties first), the above mentioned are good bets. Enjoy your pint!

By Daniel Fraser

On a recent trip to Pattaya I was intrigued enough to to and stay at the very new D2Baraquda.

D2 is the new hi-touch, design hotel fleet of the celebrated Dusit group from Thailand. Branded as chic and refreshingly hip, D2 Pattaya is a nice change of pace in Pattaya. The city itself is going through a bit of a subtle face-lift, with some sleek new bars, restaurants and hotels competing with the voluminous buffet of mediocrity which has made the town famous since the last days of the Vietnam War.

D2 Baraquda Pattaya is a nice slice of this new wave of goodness splashing into Pattaya. Located on the 2nd road from the beach right in the heart of town, D2 is withing walking distance to walking street and all of the other bright, shiny objects that compete for our attention in town.

As soon as you walk in to the high-ceiling, airy lobby, you feel as if you’ve been delivered from the commercial grime of coastal Thailand into a energized wellness chamber. D2′s GM Mr Paolo, or ‘Guru’ as his business card reads, has a swift an efficient operation run by enthusiastic and pleasant staff.  Small touches like a welcome cappuccino or latte in the cool and airy corner of the lobby made for a pleasant welcome. Rooms are hip and spacious and overall they do a great job of making limited spaces seem very large with giant windows and gargantuan mirrors, curved lines, glass panels and wave-inspired fashionable furnishings. The Deluxe Rooms feature a glassed in bathroom area with rain showers and intelligent places to hang things like towels and shower kits. These bathrooms are designed by people who understand good bathrooms.

Very large mirrors feature Deluxe Rooms beside them

Settling in, I ordered a club sandwich – my initial gold standard of how even the most basic food from the kitchen is. It was outstanding. A gourmet Club2 sandwich made by people who clearly understand what a good sandwich is (maybe sourced by the same company who sourced the shower people above).

Seeing who is staying at the hotel is also a barometer of what kind of place it is. It was nice to see a broad cross-section from young Thai families, healthy western couples, fashionable gay travelers and respectable-looking city folk. This was a nice jolt of comfort in Thailand’s coastal city of neon and beer bars.

it was so groovy i expected dolphins to join my swim....

The other facilities, like swimming pool, restaurant, fitness center and spa all work together nicely. They are functional and practical, and though neither of them win a category award on their own, there is an undeniable freshness and good value vibe in every corner of the hotel. I had a work-out, massage treatment, a good meal, and a nice swim with a little sundeck time and a book while feeling a million miles from Bangkok, and the cluster of Pattaya itself, for that matter.

The Deep Bar, located upstairs on the 3rd floor, is definitely among the hippest lounges in town. It felt a little like a coastal Bed Supperclub with an aquarium-like cool twist. Good drinks, hi-tech touches and trendy staff make it an excellent meeting place before or after a night on the town. Further up, the cool open-air lounge on top has great views of the rest of the town while giving you the luxury of being away from it, with zen-like music and breezy cocktails keeping you occupied. I arrived late, but assume it to be a fantastic sunset lounge.

chilling out in style in D2's Deep Bar

After a late check-in and a nice night in D2, I woke up feeling rather effervescent. In my 10 years in Thailand I can’t recall feeling quite like that in Pattaya before.  On an upcoming motorcycle trip across Thailand we will be using D2Baraquda for a final night before our group departs. Great choice.

Conclusion: How refreshing! While it is possible to lose your soul in Pattaya, refreshingly hip places like D2 give it a nice space to breathe.

by Scott Coates

Smiling Albino Partner/Director/Advisor Todd Kuipers recently organized a trip to Portland to celebrate his 40th Birthday. A dozen of his closest friends

The Gang at the Ace Hotel at the start of the day

and family made the journey. Why Portland you ask? – Beer. Todd is an accomplished beer aficionado and tells me that Portland has more microbreweries per capita that Munich, Germany. And it has to be true as you can’t go more than a couple blocks without walking past somewhere to have a pint. And most places don’t just serve beer, but local beers and often are brewing on-site. The city is truly alive with beer culture which apparently began in the late eighties. People seem to eat, drink and live beer.

On Saturday, July 25 we met at the Ace Hotel and headed out on the town, following our trusty leader Todd to five of his favorite breweries in northern Portland.

A short ride on the metro train took us to the very nice Widmer Brothers – Gasthaus Pub (955 N Russell, 503-281-3333), a cozy pub that brews on-site. We tucked into some giant pretzels with dip, beer-cheese soup and a six-glass sampler platter. There are two of these and I tasted a total of 12 tasty brews with Todd. They are famous for pioneering America’s first Hefeweizen. It’s very refreshing but my favorite was the Drop Top Amber Ale – a very tasty, fruity, refreshing brew.

Todd sampling at Widmer Brothers

A 15 minute walk north and up a small hill took us to Amnesia Brewing (832 N Beech St., 503-281-7708), a very funky setup in an industrial type garage with picnic tables and outdoor seating in summer. It’s been around since about 2004 and is very laid-back and inviting. A number of beers were tasted here but it was the Slow Train Porter that got my attention. Rather heavy as porters are, but flavorful and really kicked the afternoon into high-gear.

Walking was the best idea of the day as we were all rather ‘rosy’ after just two of five planned stops and enjoyed a leisurely stroll to stop number three at 5Q Old Lompoc (3901 N Williams Ave, 503-288-3996), the standout for me for all around great beers. Tried another sampler platter here of six brews and they were all outstanding. On top of that their nachos were incredible and they even had Connect Four – the classic game of ultimate wit and intelligence. The tastiest here was Proletariat Red, a heady pint at 6.4% which went great with the nachos.

Scott & Shawn playing Connect Four

Another stroll through Portland neighborhoods (much needed to help work the beer through) took us to McMenamins Chapel Pub (430 N Killingsworth St, 503-286-0372), a wonderful building that was previously a church and dates to 1932. They have a very nice patio and it was a gorgeous early evening. Feeling like something lighter some of us had beer shakes and many of us (me included) dove-in to several pints of their very refreshing Ruby, made with raspberries and low in alcohol at 4.39%. After probably a few too many pints we dragged ourselves away from the now very comfy patio for our final planned stop.

Saraveza (1004 N Killingsworth St, 503-206-4252), an extremely funky and inviting venue featuring more than 200 bottles available and 10 rotating drafts was the final ender.  Snacks, very friendly staff, a great inside and outside atmosphere made this a standout. Their six beer sampler was delicious too with the Hitachino Ginger wowing most of us. Truly an outstanding and original brew.

Outside our last stop - Saraveza

After 30 different beer sampled it was time to call it a day/night. We packed-up, jumped in taxis and returned to our hotels, but not without a nightcap at Clyde Common, next door to the Ace Hotel and featuring a huge range of bourbons (just what you need after a huge day of beer tasting).

Portland is not only a beautiful, friendly and eclectic city but indeed one of the world’s greatest for beer. They have embraced the art and if you enjoy a cold one, be sure to put it on your list for places to visit. We hope to convince to host an annual Portland Brew Experience to add to our roster of adventures.

Happy 40th Birthday Todd and thanks for a memorable day! You’re one of the greats.

A Chiang Rai landmark since 1993, it was started by ‘Too’. This long-haired,

very interesting, hip individual,

graduated with an arts degree, worked for a few years in the field, then decided he was destined for something different. He rented a small space on the city’s main thoroughfare, Phaholyothin Road, and converted a former bicycle rental shop into what is now Teepee Bar.

Best described as a truly bohemian space adorned with just about everything you can imagine, old bicycles hang from the ceiling, rabbits sometimes hop about inside, great DVDs and music blast at a variety of volumes, drinks are affordable, it’s dark, the toilet is truly bizarre and many visitors can’t decide if they like it or are repulsed before making multiple visits.

For the first five years I lived in Thailand operating Smiling Albino, I didn’t often go into Teepee Bar. I’m not sure why. In the last three years I have started popping-in for ‘one’ beer which inevitably always leads to at least two. For me, it’s a place to unwind, not talk a lot, gaze at whatever music DVD is on, listen to tunes and zone-out. The owner Too, truly is a great host, making every and all types feel very welcome. Teepee truly is where it’s at!

Find Teepee Bar at:

542/4 Phaholyothin Road

Chiang Rai City, Thailand, 57000

053-752-163 (who would have thought they have a phone!)