After much fanfare during the launch phase of Soneva Kiri, Six Senses group’s latest ultra-luxury resort concept in Ko Kood, I had the pleasure of a visit to check things out with a Smiling Albino fine-tooth comb.

Soneva Kiri viewed on approach from Cessna Caravan

Soneva Kiri is an all pool villa, ultra luxury retreat on one of Thailand’s lesser developed islands in the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Kood. There are only 24 suites plus 3 special concept suites, ranging from approximately $1,000US per night up to a multi-room, utopian family beach retreat for 10x that per night. The eco-wonder structures of the rooms themselves are simply gorgeous. Massive tropical hideaways with world-class service and intelligent luxury.

Part of the science in custom designing Smiling Albino adventures is knowing which resort or room is right for which client. Soneva Kiri isn’t right for everyone. Some may find it too fantastical, too luxurious (possibility exists), or too removed from the outside world. But for those keen on an innovative and memorable luxury beach hideaway, Soneva Kiri is in a world of its own.

The Approach – Part of the Soneva Kiri experience is the private flight on their custom Cessna Caravan from Bangkok. The 1hr flight is a low hop over the Gulf of Thailand, with spectacular aerial views of the island groups between Ko Chang and Ko Kood. There are usually 3 flights each way per day, and the schedules are arranged to provide as minimum a wait as possible for guests arriving. Landing on the private airstrip on an island across the bay from the resort is a fun welcome, followed by a drink and greeting from your personal butler. From here you take a short boat trip to the wooden dock at the resort’s entrance and are escorted to your suite.

Soneva Kiri's private landing strip across the bay

A few nice touches to note: 1 – from check-in at the Bangkok airport you don’t see your bags until you arrive in your room – nor do you feel the need to pay attention. And, like all Six Senses Hideway or Soneva resorts, there is a magical arrival-to-room seamlessness. No questions, no queues, no breaks in rhythm. From the private check-in desk at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport, you are smoothly transported into a wonder world of exotic Thai luxury.

At the resort dock you are met by your own personal butler, or “Friday” as they are known, ala Robinson Crusoe. Your Friday takes care of everything from arrival/departure details to packing a breakfast to go for you when you decide on a last-minute snorkeling outing in the morning. Your Friday is at your service and appear to stop at nothing to make sure you gain maximum jollity from this unique resort experience.

The Rooms – From a distance the rooms appear as wood-over-water fantasy structures covered with canvas re-creations of the 1972 Munich Olympic complex. Simply spectacular is just one of hundreds of possible descriptions.

Beach Villa Suite

I stayed in a Beach Villa Suite. With a total size of 403 sqm, you have a feeling of total privacy by way of a wooden footbridge and exterior gate, followed by an enormous outdoor terrace/lounging area, which leads to your private pool villa, and lush garden surroundings with a private footpath down to the beach. The rooms feel like a luxurious private beach house, not a suite in a resort. Your Friday is always a phone call via your complimentary cell phone.

The bedroom is surrounded by floor to ceiling windows, appointed with lovely tropical hardwoods and fine leather furnishings. Cabinets, the TV console and closets are custom-made in the form of vintage steamship trunks, leather-bound with brass buckles and fittings. If you’d rather escape the reality of TV (yes, I did just write that), then simply fold the flat-screen down into its trunk, and it makes a nice end table at the foot of your bed. Every detail in the room was designed within the exoti-sphere concept of the resort.

Great views for breakfast in bed

The dressing room is large indoor/outdoor canopy-topped pavilion (perhaps Olympic Village inspired), attached to the bedroom. Oversize steamship trunks turned on their ends provide double vanity stations with brass and porcelain sinks, wood and leather drawers, stand-up mirrors, hanging racks, etc. There are towels and bottled water stands at various locations in the suite, including tropical lounging beds to rest if the journey between the two of them is too far. The room is enhanced with a Bose sound system with hidden garden speakers, an iPod port, personal wine cellar, free-form pool surrounding your bedroom, multi-level wooden decks, stylish rattan furniture, a designer coffee-machine, and no less than three unique locations to have a shower, ranging from tropical rain shower in your garden to a glass-brick enclosed shower cove, to a poolside shower. These are the kinds of rooms you never need to leave. Large parties could be arranged on your spacious deck, or private dinners or family BBQs. There are chess sets, reading nooks, and inviting lounge chairs nicely placed throughout your super suite. Even a family sharing a suite like this can escape one another and spread out. A family of 3 or 4 could convert the Beach Villa Suite with Library into a two-bedroom Family suite. There is of course the Private Beach Reserve, which is a multiple bedroom tropical resort unto itself.

Out and About at Soneva Kiri – Soneva Kiri is a “buggy resort”, meaning buggies are used to get from dining area to suites, to the tennis courts, spa and gym, etc. I’ve commented before that I’m not a fan of buggy resorts, but unlike most resorts where you need to ring your butler or front desk to call a buggy, at Soneva Kiri you are given the keys to your own golf cart for the duration of your stay.

go easy in the wine bar

This makes getting around a snap, and there’s even a traffic official making sure incoming carts from the Cliff Villas don’t crash into carts leaving the spa/fitness center or wine bar. Your suite has its own parking lot and the convenience of the personal golf cart is a major plus, not to mention adding to the sensation of total personalization and convenience.

Dining – Like Six Senses Yao Noi and other ultra luxury destinations, the dining experiences at Soneva Kiri are world-class. Starting with the pool bar and futuristic tropical wooden breakfast pavilions, or glass-stool cocktail bar, dishes are top notch, the selection both creative and practical, and service outstanding. Many staff members have worked for other Six Senses properties and there is a genuine Thai warmth in the air.

Recently for some Smiling Albino guests we arrange a private sunset cruise with cocktails and canapés, followed by a fully-serviced gourmet beach BBQ on a lovely nearby island for dinner. Other musts include Khun Benz Restaurant. It is interesting to note that the Six Senses group had been wooing Khun Benz, the chef, for many years to join their properties in the Maldives or Middle East. Finally with the opening of the Soneva Kiri property on Ko Kood she agreed to launch the restaurant in her name a little closer to home. Another fun new addition in 2010 is dining in a tree house “pod” under the high canopy of palm trees.

Dine like a gibbon in style

There are also numerous creative spaces to dine, such as a private BBQ at Cinema Paradiso, the outdoor amphitheatre designed from the resort’s fresh water reservoir, or a customized BBQ of your choice in your villa, or a fantastic beach picnic (Crepes Suzette and omelette’s) for a day out snorkeling.

For my first of many great meals, I had a club sandwich – as is my custom – and it came with enough extras and sides to feed a friend. Gourmet cheese, arugula and other aromatic greens, homemade mustard, etc. As a club sandwich connoisseur I was more than impressed, and sufficiently stuffed. From a sommelier’s choice wine list to steamed sea bass and homemade ice cream, a chocolate station and cooled cheese pavilion, the dining opportunities very much live up to their ambitious price tag.

Spa-Gym-Beach – A pavilion up above the fitness center is an inspiring place for a yoga or Pilates session. The gym, while small, is very well-equipped and well-staffed by people that clearly spend time in fitness rooms outside of just work hours. Soneva Kiri is a spa-lover’s paradise. The tranquil setting, stone footpaths, elevated wooden bridges and expert treatments are world-class. Six Senses is a spa and wellness focused company, and the spa at Soneva Kiri incorporates a variety of Indian, Thai, Western and holistic treatments in their signature SLOW-LIFE Spa Journeys.

There are a couple of beach options for guests at Soneva Kiri. The main suites overlook the Bay, which during high tide is a great swimming hole. The beach is cresent-shaped with fine, manicured sand. The rugged cliffs around the edges of Ko Kood have sprinkled the beachfront with scattered rocks, but this is very much still a fantastic beach lover’s cove. The south beach is operational as of spring 2010. This is a groomed beach oasis ideal for sunsets, BBQs, and family beach fun.

The Den beckons

What to do – Of course there are lots of things to do at Soneva Kiri – ranging from a very nice snorkeling trip with picnic by private boat, etc. to jungle trekking, visits to waterfalls, eco-discoveries with the resort’s own pharmacologist (yes). There are the standard resort experiences – if the term applies to Soneva Kiri – such as wine tasting courses, cooking, Thai language and history, etc. The beach of course is a draw – and I went for a couple of great swims. The November-May time frame makes the beach/swimming experience more enjoyable, and while it is certainly doable in the wet season (June-October), it wouldn’t be as idyllic.

For some upcoming guests Smiling Albino has arranged a deluxe helicopter adventure from Soneva Kiri to nearby Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This trip involves a private meal in a remote Angkor temple, an overnight at Amansara in Siem Reap, and a day-and-a-half expertly hosted discovery of Angkor’s epic monuments.

For kids, as if the rooms weren’t enough fun, The Den is a giant bamboo and rattan wonder-cove full of educational discovery. There are astronomy classes at the resort’s observatory, or PADI dive instruction, or private movie nights, or trips to honey and pearl farms. Once you’ve done all that you might just have time to open your book and remember the real reason you came to the resort: to take a vacation.

a swing in an eco villa

Everything appears to work in sync – engineered in part by the resort’s own time zone, set an hour ahead of the outside world. Potential inconveniences could be the flight itself if the proposed times don’t match your international or regional arrival. The resort makes efforts to match their daily flight schedule according to the needs of the guests, but of course it is possible that you may have a wait of a couple of hours. Having checked through various Trip Advisor reviews it seems that most people are genuinely impressed with their experience. For some guests we have recommended other locations, even knowing that budget wasn’t necessarily the issue. Soneva Kiri is a special kind of escape and we’ve had several Smiling Albino guests overjoyed and grateful for our recommendations.

Take-Away – Soneva Kiri is an inspiring, concept-driven destination resort that ranks with the finest luxury properties in the Maldives or Caribbean. The creativity and sense of humour behind a resort like this – fantasyland really – makes staying an absolute pleasure.

Ideal for couples, families, groups of friends, those with golf cart driving experience.

Perfect for anyone who wants the best of the best – mixed with fun and tropical bliss.

As experience design specialists, we make a point of being as close to the final product as possible, and that includes having an intimate knowledge of accommodation options we propose to our valued guests. Anyone can book a resort, but knowing which resort is right for which guest in relation to their larger SA experience involves some science.

Last week I stayed a couple of nights at Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi, one of the flagship properties of the luxury-wellness resort group, Six Senses. Having stayed at Six Senses Evason Resort in Phuket, and also recently at Soneva Kiri on Ko Kood, I had equally big expectations for Yao Noi. In short, the resort is absolutely stunning.

view from the suites

The Approach – I’m a fussy traveler and hate multiple transitions to get to the beach, but the Six Senses people make the transition relatively painless. I landed in Phuket at 0900am, and was met by the resort staff, then transferred 25 minutes in a BMW 5-Series to the Ao Po pier (ride was enjoyable but some ambient music would have been a nice addition to get you into island mood, or perhaps a piece of lemongrass to gnaw on for fun.) At Ao Po pier the resort staff pack your bags on to the large, comfortable speedboat, and then a nice 45-min ride brings you to the resort.

The view of the resort from the water doesn’t do justice to the tropical luxury therein. Mostly covered by dense foliage, the views of wooden rooftops scattered over an expansive hill are all you can see beyond the long, wooden pier. Turning your head 180 degrees however enables the stunning view of Krabi and the hundreds of karsts dotting the distant sea.

Arrival at Six Senses resorts is always smooth – it is one of the highlights. Your ‘Butler’ and the rest of the resort team greet you right from the boat, attend to your bags, feed you a drink, and whisk you away on a golf cart to your hideaway. For the duration of your stay your personal butler attends to your needs, arranges dinner reservations and activity excursions, and personally takes care of your check-in/check-out. This simple in-room check-in process could easily be done at virtually any resort, but oddly it isn’t. There is value in it and the Six Senses folks have it down to a science.

For those with no time for the BMW and boat trip to the resort, a helicopter transfer can be arranged approximately $1,000US per way from Phuket. This would be a lovely way to arrive with the hundreds of islands and karsts dotting the approach.

Pool Villa Suite

Rooms – I’ve been spoiled here in SE Asia with the opportunity to stay at some of the finest resorts in the world, and the rooms at Six Senses Yao Noi rank up with the best of them at their price range. My room was #51, a Pool View Suite, on the nearest side to the pier and water sports area (perhaps they knew…).

The master bedroom is a spacious, full-windowed suite with tropical hardwoods and state-of-the-art gadgetry and audiophile treats, a steam room, and so many nooks and crannies and places to hang things that I’m sure I donated half of my clothes unknowingly to the resort. Below the room is a spacious pool deck, your private pool, and the 2nd bedroom in the case of the suites. There is also a nice wooden deck bridge that leads to a garden area and sala for afternoon chess or quiet reading. No steal beams or concrete pillars or platforms – the entire room and surrounding area is hardwood and exotic, tropical furniture. The rooms are gorgeous, offer total privacy, multiple bathing/showering/lounging options, and eclipse the private tropical villa fantasy image.

Living Room in the Pool Villa

Some other rooms to note:

Slightly closer to earth are the entry level rooms, Pool Villa and Deluxe Pool Villa, which are the same in virtually every respect as the Pool Villa Suite less the 2nd bedroom.

Ultra Luxury Suites

The Retreat is the resort’s 2nd highest room category. There is only one of them, and it features two separate master bedroom villas, an enormous private pool with panorama views and Olympic-sized deck, as well as a large common room for entertainment, meals, etc. This would be brilliant for a couple of small families, or a pair of couples. A few kids could be set up with extra beds in the common room (200sqm or so itself). Fabulous private hideaway surrounded by lush natural surroundings.

Aerial shot of The Reserve upon approach from the clouds

This room is fit with extra rooms for nannies and bodyguards, has a full conference room and wine cellar, gym, sauna/Jacuzzi and an enormous indoor/outdoor common area with multiple tables and lounging facilities, a water slide (great for kids, or adults after enjoying the wine cellar). The grand, tropical luxury of this super suite just might be worth the price. The view alone from opening the front doors has to be one of the most magnificent panoramas in all of Thailand.

Out and About Six Senses Yao Noi - Getting around the resort is easy with multiple buggies whizzing back and forth. My room was one of the furthest from the dining area but I found the 5-minute walk quite nice through stone pathways and wooden bridges. Ordinarily I don’t like buggy resorts where guests are left in sequestered corners of massive resort complexes, but the size here at Six Senses Yao Noi is very manageable on foot, or, as is the custom, just call your butler for a buggy. A short walk out the back gate leads you to the tennis court and a small local village if you’d like to briefly re-connect to the rest of the planet.

There are only 56 units at Six Senses Yao Noi, so the distances to the spa, gym, restaurants, beaches, etc. are all very doable without the buggies.

Service - This isn’t a 5-star resort, it is an ultra luxury resort, so the expectations one would have for service could make evaluating it rather severe. The service was very good – although at breakfast I did wait longer than I like to for someone to offer coffee on the 2nd day, and the milk wasn’t warmed as I’d requested on the first day. A very minor detail, however ultra luxury resorts should get this right.

The spa and fitness center were well attended with spiffy, knowledgeable staff. The butlers are the real stars here, and as they are commissioned to attend to your every need, the result clearly is that the service is excellent. The beach staff vanish when not required, and magically reappear out of nowhere (from the forest I think) when needed.

Food/Beverage – This is a great place to eat! I started with my customary club sandwich (Dan’s gold standard starter for any hotel). It may have eclipsed the supernatural club sandwich I had at Soneva Kiri, though it was 30% more expensive, but perhaps wasn’t as heroic as my personal favourite at D2 Pattaya. Either way, it paved the way for several more great dishes, salads, burgers, Greek sides, Italian pastas, and spontaneous off-menu Thai dishes as well. Everything was outstanding in accordance with the cost of each dish.

Happy Hour at The Den

Dining at The Den and the The Dining Room are both cool experiences. The Den is a large wooden, two-story house with ambient music, massive couches with pillows and coloured cushions. You could slurp cocktails here all night and never tire of the groovy, chill-out vibe. Again, very nice, well-trained staff.

East Beach

The Beach – The resort is built on a hill that slopes onto two different beaches: front beach and back beach. The back beach beside the pier is the water sports area – again well attended by attentive staff. I went kayaking at sunset to some remote beaches around the bay. Very user-friendly. The front beach is gorgeous – a great stretch of manicured beach sloping into clear water – the postcard image of idyllic sandy bliss. Sunsets here on the east side are fantastic as the trees and umbrellas cast long shadows into the water – creating pockets of sunshine and shaded swimming holes. The beach is wide enough to stretch out and have a full game of Red Rover, but it is doubtful this occurs very often. There are a series of deck chairs on a white sand bluff, attended by staff that seem to float in and out from the sky.

The Crowd – During my stay in April the guest mix was nicely eclectic. Young couples, Scandinavian families, retired couples, plus a few middle-aged single travelers. It was a healthy-looking, smart crowd, part of the extended Six Senses fan club of which I’m becoming a member (smart notwithstanding in my case).

Take-Aways - From tennis to snorkelling to wine tasting courses, there’s no shortage of things to do here. Those who fear being locked-in to a resort and prefer the freedom of strolling out into the real world might be claustrophobic. However, most Six Senses guests tend to indulge in the resort itself and intentionally shut off the outside world, so it is doubtful that this would be a drawback for any potential guest. The ‘Hideaway’ series of resorts in the Six Senses repertoire certainly make hiding away a pleasure.

Minor annoyances are the need to make dinner plans in advance. This is due to the intimate seating arrangements at each of the funky restaurants. You can always choose in-villa dining, or splurge for private BBQ or private beach dining, so this may only be a drawback for indecisive types like myself.

Sunset from The Reserve

We have sent several Smiling Albino guests to Six Senses resorts around Thailand, including Yao Noi, and the reviews are always exceptional. Our guests have high expectations – which is why we feel comfortable putting those expectations into the care of the Six Senses team. Often we supplement their experience there by offering our own value-added features like customized paddling outings to remote caves and islands, eco-discoveries with recognized experts, etc.

All in this is a spectacular tropical luxury experience. The transfer in and minor commutes within the resort are quickly overshadowed by the luxurious chill-out vibe the villas and grounds create. Food, while expensive even for a high-end resort, is quite outstanding, and the overall services and amenities are fit for the price tag. Per one of the Six Senses mottos, it redefines experiences….

Ideal for couples, honeymooners, families, those able to make advance dinner plans.

by Scott Coates

It had been some time since I’d been to Ko Samui. One of Thailand’s best known islands, it’s been a tropical paradise destination for travelers for the last 20 years. Once entirely coconut plantations and jungle, word got out, people took boats over, beach bungalows were built and groups slowly grew into crowds.

Fast forward a bunch of years, renovations of original bungalow complexes, many of those turned into simple concrete huts, then proper buildings and now world class resorts, an international reputation and airport and there you have it – Ko Samui 2552 (2009).

The plane touched down at 06:50, I was in my rental car by 07:30 and

Ko Samui is paradise

searching madly for coffee by 07:50. There were no coffee shops open. All closed. I guess no matter how big and island gets as a destination, some habits die hard and not even in swinging Chwaeng Beach was there a place to grab some hot roasted beans in the early morning. In paradise and no basic elements to start my day – I would have to grab a cup at the first of 11 hotels I was to inspect that day to put together Ko Samui Beach Escapes.

The first hotel was supposed to be 5-star, hip, cool and new-concept but tanked. The manager missed our appointment; I sat for 20 minutes and was not offered a coffee (when would I get one in my system!) then after asking to be shown around by someone, was sent out with a girl on her second day working there. How can I recommend this place to guests even if the rooms were pretty nice? Not on our list!

Second stop: new, sleek, trying to be a back-to-nature property that is quite nice. Still held together with a lot of concrete, but lots of bamboo and they don’t really have a good beach at the resort, something that is surprisingly prevalent in places like Ko Samui and Phuket. It’s almost like the more you spend per night, the smaller the beach or further away your room is from it. Nice, will work with this second property as it’s in a nice price-point, but I still don’t have a coffee.

Montra's comfy bedroom

Montra Samui was a pleasant surprise and I was offered a coffee within a couple minutes which by now is what I was really interested in. Breakfast was offered (very appreciated and wanted) but declined (due to time constraints to get everything done), the staff were shining and I had a coffee in my hand while seeing the property. I was impressed. Just eight rooms make up the Montra, it’s a 15 minute walk from Lamai Beach, there’s not much outside its walls but it’s nice, run with style and by friendly people that care. If it’s a nice place to sleep, relax and enjoy some meals but you don’t want to blow the budget and don’t need to be on the beach, then this is a good option.

A few uninspiring places (no offers of coffee either), mainly due to being by run by staff that have not been trained in running higher-end establishments or ones pretending to be, cheap finishings all around, and the quick impression to the trained inspecting eye that they’re nothing more than a $60US/night room with a calming slap of paint, some nice bath foam next to the shower and the word ‘spa’ tagged on the end of the name. Certainly not worth the $200US+/night they were asking. Off the list.

Bring on Poppies, a property I’d heard of from friends that write guidebooks,

Poppies is very comfy

long term residents and those in-the-know. It’s been around for nearly 20 years, is small but has class. The lobby is old-school and really unimpressive. I almost wanted to leave after having trouble finding someone to help me. I then met the manager, had a nice chat and he walked me into the grounds which are in the back along Chwaeng Beach. Twenty-something tasteful units are set amongst lush gardens, their restaurant’s popularity has swelled due to extremely good taste and the beach is exquisite. And, all in the heart of what is supposed to be noisy, overrun Chwaeng Beach. Not at all – sign me up!

Each room is unique

Relais & Chateaux (R&L) is a unique property brand I only came to know since working in Thailand. Their Chiang Mai property, the Rachamankha is one of our favorites in the kingdom and one we love putting our guests at. Truly a one-of-a-kind, steeped in tradition and class. Karma Kamet became an R&C member in November 2009 and why is obvious. No R&L property is like another R&L property and great attention to design has taken place here. Each of the 12 rooms are unique, obviously furnishings hand-purchased and you’re not sure where you are – certainly not in a small building on Ko Samui’s north shore. A really neat vibe for the author penning her next work liberally splashed with dips in the ocean.

It’s neat to see locally grown brands make it. The Anantara seems to be

One of the island's nicest pools

doing just that. Started by the country’s most famous foreigner-come-Thai-come-business man, William Heineke, the Anantara struck to provide 5-star, truly Thai services and experiences throughout the kingdom and they’re doing it. Their Golden Triangle location has been a long favorite, there’s another handful around the country and they’re sure to become a well known name worldwide soon. Their Ko Samui location is no exception. One thing that really stood out during my time on the island is that things are overpriced compared to other beach destinations like Ao Nang, Ko Phi Phi and Railay Bay, Krabi, Ko Chang and Ko Samet. You pay about 50% more here than other spots, but close to the price at Phuket. When you calculate service, room quality, environment, quality of beach and others, the Anantara is a no-brainer if you have about $200US/night to spend and want to be comfy. I wish I could go for a week right now.

Luxurious through and through

Tongsai Bay was first brought to my attention by a friend writing a travel book when I asked about sure bets on the island some years ago. It’s one of, if not the original luxury property on Ko Samui. Time has served it well, unlike so many beach hotels I drove past, the lobby wreaks traditional beach charm, rooms are timeless and well-appointed, and the amenities/facilities top-drawer. They even have regular and adults-only swimming pools. And the beach is very nice too.

What else could I expect from the absolute best from the Four Seasons? I

Simply the best

couldn’t envision a beach hotel from them as I had to date experienced their city and mountain properties in Thailand, but they nailed it. From the moment you arrive at their purpose-built reception area atop a cliff overlooking the ocean, you know you’ve arrived. A buggy ride down a super steep path and across the hill brings you to the villas. And boy, are they special. Everything has been thought of, included, procured and at your disposal. Beach – incredible and private. Rooms – exquisite. Spa – wild. Fitness center – tops. You name it, it’s here. No reason to leave at all, ever. But I still had more places to see.

The aforementioned properties were listed from least to most expensive, but not necessarily from least to most admired by the writer.

Let us arrange your Ko Samui Beach Escape.

By Daniel Fraser

On a recent trip to Pattaya I was intrigued enough to to and stay at the very new D2Baraquda.

D2 is the new hi-touch, design hotel fleet of the celebrated Dusit group from Thailand. Branded as chic and refreshingly hip, D2 Pattaya is a nice change of pace in Pattaya. The city itself is going through a bit of a subtle face-lift, with some sleek new bars, restaurants and hotels competing with the voluminous buffet of mediocrity which has made the town famous since the last days of the Vietnam War.

D2 Baraquda Pattaya is a nice slice of this new wave of goodness splashing into Pattaya. Located on the 2nd road from the beach right in the heart of town, D2 is withing walking distance to walking street and all of the other bright, shiny objects that compete for our attention in town.

As soon as you walk in to the high-ceiling, airy lobby, you feel as if you’ve been delivered from the commercial grime of coastal Thailand into a energized wellness chamber. D2′s GM Mr Paolo, or ‘Guru’ as his business card reads, has a swift an efficient operation run by enthusiastic and pleasant staff.  Small touches like a welcome cappuccino or latte in the cool and airy corner of the lobby made for a pleasant welcome. Rooms are hip and spacious and overall they do a great job of making limited spaces seem very large with giant windows and gargantuan mirrors, curved lines, glass panels and wave-inspired fashionable furnishings. The Deluxe Rooms feature a glassed in bathroom area with rain showers and intelligent places to hang things like towels and shower kits. These bathrooms are designed by people who understand good bathrooms.

Very large mirrors feature Deluxe Rooms beside them

Settling in, I ordered a club sandwich – my initial gold standard of how even the most basic food from the kitchen is. It was outstanding. A gourmet Club2 sandwich made by people who clearly understand what a good sandwich is (maybe sourced by the same company who sourced the shower people above).

Seeing who is staying at the hotel is also a barometer of what kind of place it is. It was nice to see a broad cross-section from young Thai families, healthy western couples, fashionable gay travelers and respectable-looking city folk. This was a nice jolt of comfort in Thailand’s coastal city of neon and beer bars.

it was so groovy i expected dolphins to join my swim....

The other facilities, like swimming pool, restaurant, fitness center and spa all work together nicely. They are functional and practical, and though neither of them win a category award on their own, there is an undeniable freshness and good value vibe in every corner of the hotel. I had a work-out, massage treatment, a good meal, and a nice swim with a little sundeck time and a book while feeling a million miles from Bangkok, and the cluster of Pattaya itself, for that matter.

The Deep Bar, located upstairs on the 3rd floor, is definitely among the hippest lounges in town. It felt a little like a coastal Bed Supperclub with an aquarium-like cool twist. Good drinks, hi-tech touches and trendy staff make it an excellent meeting place before or after a night on the town. Further up, the cool open-air lounge on top has great views of the rest of the town while giving you the luxury of being away from it, with zen-like music and breezy cocktails keeping you occupied. I arrived late, but assume it to be a fantastic sunset lounge.

chilling out in style in D2's Deep Bar

After a late check-in and a nice night in D2, I woke up feeling rather effervescent. In my 10 years in Thailand I can’t recall feeling quite like that in Pattaya before.  On an upcoming motorcycle trip across Thailand we will be using D2Baraquda for a final night before our group departs. Great choice.

Conclusion: How refreshing! While it is possible to lose your soul in Pattaya, refreshingly hip places like D2 give it a nice space to breathe.

by Daniel Fraser

People often ask me to compare the attributes of various beach destinations. This can be an endless series of analogies and weighing of pros and cons, but after 8 years exploring various beach destinations I have a pretty firm grasp of what is available.

Recently someone asked what the difference was between Ko Samed vs Ko Samui. Basically it comes down to this:
Ko Samed is a very small island 3hrs from BKK, accessible by van/boat. There are no major roads on the island and there are no high-rise buildings and the resorts tend to be smaller, family-owned establishments, some of them quite new and lovely, most of them quite simple but clean. It is probably the most laid-back of all the major islands, and once you’re there you don’t really need to put on shoes for the rest of your stay. The resort we recommend, Samed Villa, is new and cozy and is right on the beach, and there are lots of restaurants nearby, beach pubs, etc. It is easy to arrange island-hopping, snorkeling trips, etc. Samed is for those who want to check-out mentally and enjoy an outstanding beach with no fuss and avoid the crowds. Summer weather is tough to predict in Thailand but over the 8 years we’ve been going to the beach it seems that Samed has the most consistent and pleasant weather of any of the major islands. This of course doesn’t guarantee balmy weather, but it always gets my vote for the ideal weekend get-away.
Samed tends to be a little slower, better for reading books and playing beach volleyball. Nothing beats Samed for quaint charm and convenience.
We offer a hassle-free beach escape package to Ko Samet!

Ko Samui is in the league of world-class island resorts. There’s an airport for direct flights ($250-$300US/pp return from Bangkok) and hotels ranging from the Four Seasons at $1,500US/night to simple beach cottages. Samui’s advantage is that you have access to everything from Italian restaurants to monkey shows for tourists to Starbucks, and a wide range of shopping and resort options, and even tour guides who offer boat trips in Russian. You can’t walk around the island barefoot, so renting some kind of transport to go from town to town is necessary. But, you can play a round of golf in the morning and then do a sunset cruise on a nice boat at night. Things like snorkeling and diving trips are possible – as they are at most of the major islands – and are best arranged direct with your resort. Samui boasts the flare and development of an international tourist resort. Samui will be busy, perhaps less romantic, but of course provides a longer menu of things to do.

Conclusion:
Looking for chill-out, hassle-free beach time: Samed
Looking for activity and entertainment options: Samui

Best sand: Samed
Best hotels: Samui

by Scott Coates

The best beach, the best island, the best ocean. That seems to be the eternal quest for most visitors to Thailand.

Just as one venue is deemed ‘tranquil’, ‘unspoiled’ and ‘paradise’ by the guidebooks, it seems a short time later people are talking about the good old days before the droves arrived and spoilt the destination’s once idyllic charm.

The Coates family enjoying Ko Samet

But what does one really need for a great beach vacation? After all, most people visiting such beaches and complaining of them being overcrowded and over-developed are themselves adding to the masses. But, no one is willing to forgo his or her beach vacation. Perhaps the reason there are so many people at some Thai beaches (certainly not compared to most world-class beach resorts around the world) is because they are so bloody fantastic.

One Thai beach destination that has been popular with locals and foreigners for many, many years due to its close proximity to Bangkok is Ko Samet. Just three hours by car from the country’s teaming metropolis, this small island in Rayong province is just five km from the mainland, the kingdom’s driest island and home to the softest sand you’ll find anywhere ­ guaranteed.

Like most vacation spots within quick shooting distance of major cities, things are a little more expensive, but that’s par for the course. That said, it’s pretty tough to find better beach value anywhere in the world.

After being lucky enough to visit Ko Samet while leading adventures for many years, I returned with my family in February 2004. As scheduling of our 2003 adventures worked, I had not had my feet on Ko Samet’s incredible sand for quite a while due to taking more people to Ao Nang, Krabi, that year. Life’s tough when you trade one incredible area for another, but it was this visit that led me to once again really appreciate all that is Samet.

While an area like Ao Nang, Krabi, attracts crowds for its limestone cliffs that rise hundreds of feet straight out of the water and is completely unique in the world, most islands are relatively similar. That’s why it’s always been my feeling that once you find an island you like; stay there. Time spent jumping island to island has always left me wondering what exactly it is some people are looking for.

Even though Ko Samet has grown over the years from a laid-back paradise with simple bamboo huts, progress isn’t always such a bad thing. Modern conveniences have now made the island even more of a pleasure to stay on. Here are some things (in no particular order) that make it tops:

• The softest sand you’ve ever felt
• Lots of neat beaches to choose from (some busier, some really quiet)
• Only one beach has motorized water sports
• Sea kayaks for rent ­ quiet, non-polluting ocean sports are always a good bet
• Nice clean, warm water to swim and lounge in
• A very dry climate that makes most days throughout the year great beach days
• A plethora of tress along the beach to enjoy some shade
• Polite vendors that respect and understand ‘no thank-you’
• Vendors selling things you will want sometime during your stay
• Accommodations right on the beach ­ step out of your bungalow and you’re there
• Modern bungalows with hot showers, cable TV and all the right comforts
• Internet cafes (I know you’re supposed to get away from it all, but it’s nice to brag to your friends at home how great it is where you are)
• A nice mix of beach restaurants and bars to choose from
• Great fire juggling shows on the beach at night
• Funked-out bars with beach mats, pillows and candles, smack-dab on the beach
• A great trail system to take you all over the island
• Wonderful runs along the beaches during low tide
• A guy on motorbike who roams the island selling the ‘Bangkok Post’

I will stop there as I could go on for some time. The point is, in a day and age

A comfy beach bungalow

when everywhere isn’t like it used to be, is more developed and busier, Ko Samet is still top drawer. There are no high-rises on the island, accommodation is bungalow style, slightly set back from the beach in the trees and I’ve yet to ever see the beach overcrowded.

Days are best spent doing little. Find a chair, a spot under a tree, or a rock to strike a pose and take it all in. Or rather, take the lack of it all in. Stare at the ocean, read a book, cool off with a dip, have a meal, enjoy a cocktail and suddenly it’s time for bed. Days have never gone so fast doing nothing!

Having visited most of the country’s main islands and beaches, it’s easy to see why Ko Samet continues to be such a draw. Accommodation is always relatively full, but the island is always full of open space and I’ve never wanted to leave.
Next time try Ko Samet.

by Scott Coates

“I lost my five-year-old daughter, and five cousins in Phuket,” he says, trying his best to concentrate on the road.

Painting a new longtail boat

“I just got back from my daughter’s funeral in Phuket last night. I stayed there for two days, but my head hurt too much. I had to come back here and get back to work, back to my life,” says a misty-eyed Surapol Khunthamas, 34, a minivan driver at Ao Nang, Krabi in southern Thailand.

While shuttling our party of five from the airport to our hotel at this tropical paradise, previously more famous for its towering limestone cliffs and silky-soft beaches than the now infamous tsunami waves of December 26, 2004, he took charge of the conversation.

“How has your travel business been? Do you still have lots of customers coming to Thailand?” were but a few of the queries he fired my way as we made the 25km journey, seemingly more interested in my well being than his own. But that’s the Thai way, not to burden others with one’s sorrow.

A great sunset in Krabi

Bags out of the van and into our hotel, it was time to say goodbye. As Surapol wished us good luck, “Chock Dee Krap,” the traditional Thai parting, he also displayed that famous Thai smile.

After a quick check-in we strolled the 500m from our hotel to Ao Nang beach itself. It was during the walk I started to feel strange. I couldn’t put my finger on it. Then it hit me – there’s no one here. It was like we were in one of those ‘b-movies’ where everyone suddenly disappears.

It’s January 10, 2005, normally peak season and there’s only the odd foreigner here and there, scores of locals sitting idly, waiting for someone to serve.

After a thorough exploration I find it’s the same everywhere – unspoiled beauty without the usual crowds. But where’s the damage I’ve heard so much about on TV?

“We were very lucky in Ao Nang,” explains Mark Ossendryver, 39, a South African who’s called Thailand’s southern islands and beaches home for some time.

Looking past a new boat's bow

“The road was full of sand and debris right after the waves hit Ao Nang. There were some trees knocked over and a couple of long tail boats up on the road and some water damage to local businesses, but not much more,” explains this restaurant owner and photographer who moved here from harder-hit Ko Phi Phi with his wife and newborn son to start a new life.

He now finds himself in the same position as a lot of locals who depend on the four-month peak season, which started in mid-December, to get through the year; wondering what he will do.

“The major set back we are all experiencing now is the lack of tourists.

“Our beaches, hotels, shops, pubs and transport here are as good, if not better than before the waves hit. There are businesses closing on a daily basis which puts more and more locals out of jobs.”

Ossendryver and five Thai employees at his Café 154 can also now count themselves in this category.

Hard at work

“We just closed our restaurant which we only opened in October and with it go all our life savings. There are no tourists around and with the international press, there doesn’t seem to be any light at the end of the tunnel,” he explains.

It’s international press’ seemingly blanket coverage that’s frustrating many in this part of the country.

Tsunami waves hit some 300km of Thailand’s southwestern coastline, resulting in major damage to only a handful of areas, namely Khao Lak, Ko Phi Phi and parts of Phuket, with many locales cleaned up and open for business only days after the tsunami, but now sitting empty, waiting for visitors.

It seems the main damage being done to Ao-Nang is by the media, not the wave itself. Because the island of Ko Phi-Phi belongs to Krabi Province, there is the wrong impression that the entire Krabi mainland was heavily damaged too. By lumping all beach destinations together and thinking in provincial categories, instead of differentiating between Krabi and heavily-hit Ko Phi-Phi the public abroad is being misled.

The fact of the matter is that aside from Ko Phi Phi, Khao Lak and a bit of Phuket it’s business as usual. (see Image Asia post-tsunami page)

And such media coverage is certainly having an effect. While some have seen their workplaces damaged, employees at businesses still standing are being laid off after European and Scandinavian tour agencies made mass cancellations at resorts in Krabi through to the end of January, said Krabi Chamber of Commerce vice president Pronchai Tantrasakul.

Compounding the problem, other tours have yet to confirm their bookings for February, capping off a heartbreaking high-tourist season. Some Krabi hotels and resorts have tried to keep their employees on the payroll by halving work hours and pay. Other operators continue to pay their employees a full salary. But with occupancy at 10 per cent, compared to 80 per cent prior to the tsunami, many have given their staff 10 days vacation. If tourism fails to recover next month, Pronchai said, the entire Krabi hotel and resort industry will lay off their 20,000-strong staff. (See Nation article)

New boats being made

While walking neighboring Hat Nopharathara Beach, there’s little doubt that most residents are moving on with their lives, hoping things will soon return to ‘normal’.

“Life must go on,” I’m told by many longtail boat drivers who are fixing their damaged boats – most very happy theirs were not totally destroyed like so many in these waters. Getting back on the water seems to be of utmost importance, back to where they clearly feel most comfortable and their livelihoods are.

Despite hearing tales of boats destroyed, friends and family lost, something else prevails – smiles and a resolute belief that visitors will soon return. After all “It’s safe, beautiful and the perfect time to visit,” I’m told by a group of boaters, something Ossendryver echoes.

“We’re now moving into the best weather Thailand has to offer, there’re specials on hotels, in restaurants; everyone’s discounting their wares. There are not many people around so there’s the added benefit of getting the best of Thailand in high season but with lower prices and low season population.”

After four days of beaching, paddling, sundown jogs and enjoying tropical paradise it was too-soon time to bid adieu and head back to the reality of home. As we walked to the minivan waiting to whisk us to the airport, its door opened and out came our original driver Surapol, smiling.

“How was your trip,” he inquired?

Enroute to the terminal we traded stories, expressed disbelief about the weeks’ events and pondered the future of Ao Nang and nearby areas.

“Will they come back soon,” he asked, enquiring about the travelers who usually keep his days full of work?

I thought of what to say, deciding honestly was the way to go, “I hope so, but you may have to wait a while.”

His face expressed the disappointment of someone who already knew the answer then he smiled and stated, “mai pen rai” (never mind).

New boats waiting to be finished

One month after disaster struck, with more than 5,384 people confirmed dead in Thailand and 3,132 still missing , there’s no doubt certain parts of the south were devastated, lives lost and families forever changed. But without income in areas where tourism provides the vast majority of employment visitors are needed now. By coming and contributing to the local economy you will be doing something useful and constructive and still be having a wonderful holiday in one of Thailand’s most scenic destinations.