by Scott Coates

When I moved to Bangkok in 1999 to develop Smiling Albino I was an avid mountain biker having taken up the sport about two years previously in Calgary, AB. It’s easy to get into the forest there, hit dirt trails and get away from people very quickly. Taking up residence in bustling Bangkok, a city of 10 million, mostly covered in concrete, presented immediate challenges to

John crossing a canal in Bangkapi district

continue riding. Streets are crammed with traffic, there’s hardly any open space and concrete dominates. I was initially worried and even a bit sad to realize my days riding out the back door and shortly after that into the forest and on dirt were likely behind me. But after a month or so of exploring my area in the eastern part of the city I found new opportunities. While not the same type of mountain biking, what I discovered was equally challenging, extremely interesting for a foreign resident and very close to my apartment.

Khlongs (canals) once dominated all areas of Bangkok, many of which have been built over to create roads in modern times, but if you get out of the downtown core, into suburban areas like Bangkapi where I live, there’s still a lot of them. These canals not only serve as waterways for transport and fishing, but people also live along their banks in mostly ramshackle homes. Residents tend to be quite poor, canals dirty, but there are often concrete walkways built above and alongside canals for transport. Typically about 1m in width and about 2m above the water, they’re connected by funky wooden footbridges, sharp turns, low-lying roofs and all sorts of other obstacles to be negotiated. I was dazzled from my first visit. Over the years I got out as much as I could, was constantly on the hunt for new pathways and creating longer and more interesting rides. While I’m very happy to see Smiling Albino growing and spreading its trunk, the last few years have seen me have less and less time for riding, something I hope will change. In June 2010 a fellow Canadian resident, Greg, invited a few friends out for a bike ride through his end of the city, along the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok’s main waterway and alleyways near Yaowarat (Chinatown).

Sunday riders in front of Bangkok's old Customs House

On a Sunday morning eight of us met along Sukhumvit Road, one of the the city’s main thoroughfares and set out with the goal of taking as many quite roads, small alleys and passageways as possible to Khao Sarn Road, a haven for backpackers. At times we had to take major roads for a few kilometers, but were mostly able to weave together a quiet, interesting route from Greg’s years of riding around his stomping ground. Without realizing it I was entranced, taken back to that first year of living in Bangkok and riding canals in my end of the city. Life is different in these lanes. The sounds of a teeming city non-existent, smiles friendlier, goings on different and life of Bangkok past much easier to imagine. After more than 10 years living and exploring, I remembered why I love this city so much. There are few metropolises where turning a corner can change things so much. Wooden houses suddenly dominate, European-style buildings appear, people are working with their hands rather than machines and for all intensive purposes we were seeing another city entirely. A city you must bike or walk to get inside, through, up, over and into.

In a day and age where cars, subways and modern transport dominate, and certainly have a very useful purpose, the ride reaffirmed some of my personal beliefs and Smiling Albino’s founding principals. To really see and appreciate an area, you must dive in head first. Rely on your feet and bikes to get into its internal organs and by doing so, see a side to a city and country that few locals and even fewer visitors ever experience. Adventures like our Bangkok Headlights and Yaowarat have always relied on self-propelled

Scott & Erika crossing the Rama VIII Bridge

exploration and I remembered why – it’s the only way to see the spots we take our guests. You simply can’t get in small passageways in a car, train or into the ancient heart of Bangkok any other way.

In a day and age of bigger, faster and more comfortable, it’s important to remember that traveling is about exploring and experiencing other cultures, not rushing. New isn’t always better and in many respects new is making the world a blander more uniform place. The next time you travel I encourage you to get out of the car, get out of the train, walk down a quite street, go in the dark alley and have a look. On second thought, better to take a Smiling Albino adventure and let us share some of our favorite secret corners with you in safety and style. There are all kinds of untold stories and sites out there waiting to be discovered.

There must be a movement going on somewhere. Over the past 3 months we’ve received several requests for trips in which a father is taking his daughter on an adventure as a gift, either for finishing grad school, turning 18, or getting into the right post-grad program. This has been an interesting dynamic to observe. Over the past few years we have done quite a few mother-son trips, and hundreds of family trips, but virtually no father-daughter trips. Then 2010 rolls in and suddenly we’re doing four at once. Fantastic!

There are so many ways to maneuver a trip like this so that everyone gets what they want. One father-daughter adventure duo last month warned us that significant retail and entertainment time needs to be worked in or we’ll lose the daughter, but not at the expense of missing historical landmarks, or cutting short the cultural intrigue, or we’ll annoy the dad.

How we made this work.

Take our great Bangkok day trip, the Bangkok Multi-Transport Adventure for starters. In the morning we slid into a couple of the essential landmarks like the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. At the latter we arranged some private time chatting with a couple of senior monks. This relatively open dialogue was a highlight and both dad and daughter had a short list of great questions. From here we switched gears and went for lunch at the trendy teenage hangout of Center Point Siam Square. While our guide explained some interesting things about the modern youth movement in Thailand, they listened to Thai pop music, watched Bangkok’s version of Shinjuku punk kids strut their stuff, and had ice cream and coffee. The conversation focused on the parallel forces of maintaining traditional cultural identity while openly embracing the freedom and ideals of the west. Some shopping time was enjoyed, and after this we hopped onto a canal boat hidden between retail cloisters that the average visitor would miss. From here we ventured back to the old city, jumped into a 3-wheeled tuk-tuk for a frenzied scramble through Bangkok Chinatown, followed by a highlight for everyone: a private canal boat trip through Bangkok Noi and back to their hotel.

Significant cultural landmarks: CHECK

Interesting modes of transport to keep the adventure on a high: CHECK

Retail therapy: CHECK

Insight into local culture and ideas: DOUBLE CHECK

Take away value: high-fives with dad and daughter at the end of the day

This father-daughter combo rode mountain bikes, trained elephants, sipped cocktails in a chic Bangkok lounge, shopped, hiked through hill tribe villages, visited a school and lead an impromptu game of Frisbee in a village, and soaked up layers of culture with our guides throughout the country.

The same formula of managing the moment works for all of our adventures and uniquely enables Smiling Albino guests to enjoy the best of everything in a style they can call their own.

by Scott Coates

A few shots from Christmas/New Years trips in northern Thailand. See the entire gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Northern-Thailand/Northern-Thailand-Dec-09/10978772_BRm5n#767408965_VtLHQ

Smiling Albino was here

Making friends along the Thai-Myanmar border

Blasting down Doi Tung, Chiang Mai province

Awesome morning at Rai Saeng Arun, Chiang Rai province

See the entire gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Northern-Thailand/Northern-Thailand-Dec-09/10978772_BRm5n#767408965_VtLHQ

by Bank Takaeng

Scott and friends have done a biking adventure at Doi Tung, Chiang Rai.

Recently passing the 10 year anniversary of moving to Thailand you get to thinking. Thinking about all kinds of things. Big, small, things done, lessons learned, places visited.

Chiang Rai province, the northernmost of Thailand’s 76 is my favorite. There’s just no beating it if you like the mountains. It was our first choice for a northern adventure playground when we moved here and all those years ago. I’m still dazzled.

Trails: paved, dirt, double track, single track, shale, mud, sand, I love finding

Riding towards Doi Chang

them. I love riding and exploring them. Nothing gets me jazzed quite like that. Heading just a few km into the country and a few off the regular way and you find it, quickly. Small villages – people doing their thing as they have for ages, gorgeous backdrops and rich smiles. They’re everywhere. Go by, take it in, trade a smile, gesture, word and everyone’s the richer for it. That’s the base of travel. The core, main ingredient – mutual exchange.

Stay where you want, spend a ton doing it, eat at the fanciest restaurants, sleep in a hovel, eat fried race day after day, count every dollar, but the real memories, the real value are the exchanges. They can’t be bought. They can happen, take place, occur, be arranged, but they can’t be bought. Twenty villagers in costume waiting to perform traditional dances upon your arrival is hardly the same as the glow of someone asking your name out of sheer curiosity when meeting, the eyes exchanged while paying for a $0.25 item, the kindness of being handed fresh fruit in the country from farmers while cycling by. These are the real moments of value and something we’ve been fortunate to have experienced and live most days. What a great thing.

Really out there

Dirt biking on small, rugged paths SE of Chiang Rai city, passing fields/huts/houses I’ve seen a good number of times, I’m grinning. I’m still grinning after 10 years of traveling here. I’m still loving these scenes, the experiences, the exchanges. It’s been six months since my last visit, the longest drought during my time in the country. Hosting a couple friends on some favorite mountain trails for a couple days of dirt biking and mountain biking, it’s still a thrill, a treat, I’m still dazzled by this truly remarkable province.

Chiang Rai, often referred to as the Gateway to Indochina, China’s to the

Picking a narrow path at Doi Mae Salong

north, Laos’ to the east and Myanmar to the west. Only modern-day borders define formal lines  but this area has always been one of migrants, traders, socializing and transporting. Thai, Ahka, Lisu, Lahu, Tai Yai, Muser, Karen and on it goes – mixed people living together, happily. Mixing, trading, marrying and now you have it, a terrific and diverse bunch of people. The social landscape of one of the friendliest places and still my favorite in Thailand.

What a treat to enjoy something time and time and time again, to the core, for the people who live, work and call it home.

by Scott Coates

Here are some neat shots from a journey by bicycle, train and boat to the Mae Khlong area, near the Gulf of Thailand. You can see the full gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Floating-Markets/Mae-Khlong-Cycling-Trip/9982091_qtxRJ#682312430_o2bEi

Erika & Greg on the Mae Khlong Route train

Greg crssing a foot bridge over a canal

John finesses a narrow plantation path

Erika at Amphawa Canal

Check out the full gallery: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Floating-Markets/Mae-Khlong-Cycling-Trip/9982091_qtxRJ#682312430_o2bEi

by Scott Coates
Returning to my home city in Canada (Calgary) is always a treat, especially after not being back for two-and-a-half years.
With only a week in town, seeing everyone I hoped to catch up with – family, friends and Smiling Albino (SA) guests is tough. Most times when I return it’s nice to set a venue, date and time where I’ll be and invite everyone to come by. In the past we’ve hosted travel photo shows, an afternoon at a pub and a barbeque. This year SA partner Sue Kuipers suggested hosting a bike ride around the Glenmore Reservoir followed by beers at a pub. Being summer and loving cycling this was the perfect idea.

Diana takes a spill

Saturday August 1 saw SA partners Sue & Todd Kuipers and myself meet at the 1600 Bier Haus (an excellent place with more than 100 different brews available) in Glenmore Landing, right on the edge of the pathway around the Glenmore Reservoir. About 15 people showed up with four children in bike trailers and we hit the paved, 20km trail. With only three meters under her belt, two-time SA adventurer Diana had a minor spill sideways and over a rope fence. There were no injuries and good laughs were had by all. It’s good to get the first accident out of the way early!

We cruised leisurely with a few of us ducking-off the paved path into the woods in the Weaselhead area, an old favorite dirt trail of mine. It had been five years since riding this trail, but nothing had changed and it was as beautiful as ever. One of the best things about Calgary is the incredible pathway system that covers the city and the many small dirt trails that often jut off the main track. It’s wild to be in a city and at the same time be able to ride in the trees, see animals (I spotted a bear many years ago) and be in nature.

We all met rendezvoused again at a small river (Elbow) as it passes under a bridge at the edge of Weaselhead. The kids got their feet wet in the river, learned to skip rocks and we all enjoyed getting off our seats for a bit.

The Team at the start of the ride

I’d never pulled a kid trailer and was keen to give it a try. Sue and Todd trusted me to tow their two children, Gus and Marijka. In fact I think they were rather delighted as the next section involves a good climb up a hill. Let me tell you, despite the kids being two and four-years-old, their weight with the trailer came in at about 30kg and really made for a challenging climb. At the top it was now a gentle cruise through South Glenmore Park and across the Glenmore Reservoir, Calgary’s primary source of drinking water. Another challenging climb (with the trailer in tow) took us to the edge of the Rockyview Hospital and one of my favorite markers anywhere. There’s a bench with a small pillar that commemorates Calgary’s centennial. The inscriptions reads, “May the beauty of nature inspire your direction in life.” I first got into mountain biking on this pathway and this was a favorite stopping point when I lived in the city. I remember reading it and hoping nature would indeed inspire my direction in life. It was neat to read it again, 10 years after moving to Thailand to start a specialized travel company and know that nature plays such and important role in my life.

Enjoying the Elbow River

A few kilometers later we were back at the 1600 Bier Haus with roughly 20km under our belts. It took only a few minutes for everyone to lock their bikes and get into a pint of cold beer. The renovation my friends George, Ari and Ernie have done on this pub is great and it’s truly one of the city’s nicest pubs. They generously threw in some complimentary appetizers and another 10 people joined us for drinks. From an old college friend to a recent SA guest, it was a diverse group of people and great to catch-up with everyone.

While the city of Calgary has grown a lot in the 10 years since I moved to Asia, it was wonderful to see that the pathway around the Glenmore Reservoir is as beautiful as ever. The ride is doable for all riders, views are incredible the entire way around and it was an ideal way to catch-up with friends. Many thanks for everyone who came out and I look forward to seeing you next year!

by Scott Coates

Since launching the Nepal Grand Slam in October 2006 we’ve been lucky enough to travel the country far and wide. I’ve personally fallen in love with Nepal and maintain that if you like the outdoors there’s simply no better country to visit.

The Team in a little town along a mountain ridge

Steeped in history, bordered by the world’s two most populous countries (China & India), home to Buddhists and Hindus who live in harmony and covering almost all geographical environs (71m – 8,850m), Nepal has it covered!

Each time we visit the country to host a trip we take a couple extra weeks to explore other areas and personally indulge my love for mountain biking. I’ve been lucky enough to ride from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, visiting Everest Base Camp en-route, ride the western half of the Annapurna Circuit and do lots of riding in and around the greater Kathmandu Valley. We also led a number of custom trips in 2007-2008 that saw us try new trekking routes, notably in the Gorkha region and along the Nepal-Tibet border.

Crossing a narrow suspension bridge

A number of people inquired in 2007 wanting a trip that was more physically challenging than the Nepal Grand Slam, many of whom have enjoyed our Thailand Trek & Trail. This was the impetus for launching the truly awesome Nepal Trek & Trail on March 20 2009.

Take 3 parts mountain biking, 1 part white water rafting, 5 parts trekking, throw in some super cool hotels, 2 nights at a tented camp with a 160m bungee jump, full-service camping, world-class hosts, top-notch food and there you have it – the Nepal Trek & Trail.

One of the bonuses of owning a travel company is that hitting-the-road is literally part of your job. My business partner Daniel was good enough to give me the ‘go ahead’ and I was off to Nepal to co-host the inaugural installment with Mads, our Nepal guru who helped build the trip from the ground-up. We had a group of great people sign-on for the adventure and hit it hard.

Mountains in Tibet in the background

A Welcome Dinner at a great restaurant in Kathmandu, an afternoon visiting key sites and quirky alleys, then three days cycling up and along the ridgeline of mountains in the Kathmandu Valley took us to the very cool Club Himalaya situated atop Nagarkot, the Valley’s premier hill station. From there we dropped down 1,200m to the valley floor and along the Bhote Kosi River to the Last Resort. The next day saw us raft down the river (one of Nepal’s steepest) and one guest threw himself off the bungee jump. Then it was into the hills along small footpaths near the Nepal-Tibet border for five days of full service trekking with a crew of 18 – talk about living it up! Views abound when we hit the ridge and our high point of 3,790m was a highlight. Beers were cold when we made it back to civilization at the cozy Charikot Resort and we ate like champions on our last night in Kathmandu.

After nearly 10 years living in Asia, traveling, working with Smiling Albino and designing top-notch adventures I hope there’re many, many more to come!

by Scott Coates

Long had I been dreaming of a ride down the mountain range that is home to one of Thailand’s most spectacular views, Phu Chee Fah.
Located 1380m above sea level, this sharp peak hangs over the Thai-Laos border in southeastern Chiang Rai province, providing stunning views of Laotian valleys.

Map of the route

Early morning visitors in the cool season (Nov-March) are rewarded with a sunrise unlike any other. Roughly 1000m below the peak are a sea of clouds blanketing the expanse and hills, only their peaks sticking out, looking much like islands in a sea of Cool Whip. This was to be the starting point of an epic ride.

Two years earlier I had experienced Phu Chee Fah with some friends and now found myself on an early-morning bus from Chiang Rai to Teong, about 60km down the road and midway to the famous summit.

Upon arriving in Teong, a hunt requiring an hour of patience, big smile and gift of the gab with potential transporters took place for a reasonably priced ride up the mountain. After being sent to several different locations where songtheaws (covered pickups with two benches in the back for sitting) were to be found, the third spot was the charm where I found several men, each with their own vehicle, nonchalantly waiting for passengers.

Problem – I’m the only one who wants to go to Phu Chee Fah, until a Thai couple comes upon the scene. Happy to pay more than my share, I sided with the driver and helped convince the couple that the price was fair as I wanted to get moving. My planned pedaling start-time of noon was quickly approaching.

Sitting in the back of the songthaew, I suited up – helmet, gloves, hydration backpack, sunglasses and minidisk player, anxiously awaited the summit. A few dozen windy curves later and I was there.

With a self-assembled mix of chillout music massaging my ears and scenery dazzling my eyes I wound up and down, following the sometimes-paved mountain ridge road north. At one point, a hawk hovered above, catching thermo clines and seemed to be following me for some time. Opting for a smaller lunch, it eventually dove into the trees and bid me adieu.

Small climbs were rewarded with entertaining descents and suddenly I’d already traveled 20km, arriving at a daunting 300-verticle-meter climb to a Chinese village, Ban Pha Tang.

Huffing and puffing, I chatted with some locals, enjoyed a beverage, turned down an offer to spend the day drinking at a nearby house and geared up for what they told me was a, “happy fun” descent just ahead.

I was happy, having fun and mildly terrified. For 10kms I plummeted down the mountain at whatever speed I could bare. Occasionally my brain would remind me that I’m no longer 10-years-old and realized I’m not invincible, causing me to put on the binders and bring the speedometer back into the forties. Breathless, smeared with ‘permagrin’ and at the bottom, my speedometer told why I had the words from my bike grips imprinted on the palms of my hands – I’d peaked out at 64km/hr.

With the mountains behind, a 15km pedal north through the valley took me to the hamlet of Wiang Kaen and lunch.

Stuffed, legs cramping mildly and time ticking away, there was no way to avoid the remaining 40km to my final destination, Chiang Khong.

Sunrise atop Phu Chee Fah

The next 20km followed the Mekong River, slowly snaking north with few cars interrupting its trickling silence. Maybe it was the aching legs, but ‘scenery stops’ were now happening too frequently. As the road turned away from the river with 30km to go and dusk quickly approaching it was time to get serious about peddling.

A slightly euphoric sensation came over me just before the turn off for Chiang Khong. I rode the final 20km in a semi-dazed state. This I concluded must be what marathoner’s experience. Yes, it was ‘THE WALL’. Push, push, push and what’s that? – A flat tyre, with just six km to go. A quick tube change while answering 20 questions for local on-lookers and I was off again.

Sipping a beer while perched on the deck at Bamboo Riverside Guesthouse (a stop on our Chiang Rai Northern Escape II) with proprietor Jip, I tried to communicate my exceptional day. Although impressed he was more interested in sharing another beer and catching up. Fighting heavy eyes and dreaming of the past 88km, I was in paradise.