by Bank Takaeng

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Here are some photos from a June 2010 exploratory visit to Kampot, Cambodia. Click here to see the full gallery.

Mads, Scott, Erika & Clare on the Kampot River

Hail to the boatman

Kampot River scene

Crossing a funky floating bridge

Raking salt

Bokor Mountain

See all our full Cambodia Photo Gallery by clicking here.

by Bank Takaeng

Visit : www.smilingalbino.com

by Bank Takaeng

Scott and friends have done a fantastic dirt biking at Doi Chang, Chiang Rai.

by Scott Coates

During my first visit to Cambodia in 2004 my friend James, an editor with the Cambodia Daily introduced me to a tuk tuk driver, Mr. Phy. Slightly different from Thai tuk tuks, the Cambodian version is a cart towed behind a motorcycle. The cart is much like a chariot and can seat four foreigners or roughly eight locals, not including the driver. It’s remarkable the load a small motorcycle (usually about 150cc) can pull and that these vehicles don’t overheat and burst into flames on a journey. A neat modification that helps the engine cope is an inventive water-drip-cooling system, which consists of a container of water that has a slow drip right onto the engine. Very basic but an effective system.

While in Phnom Penh in 2004, Mr. Phy beamed with a larger than life smile

The legendary Mr. Phy

when we first met at the airport and he’s greeted me with one every time since. We’re the same age, thirty-six; he has three children and like many of his countrymen is short of money and hard working. His smile, friendly demeanor, reputation for being on time and trustworthiness make him a favorite among expats living in the city and for good reason. Whenever I go to Phnom Penh he’s the first person I call. He picks me up at the airport, stops to get me a cold beer on the way into the city and is eager to send me around during my stay. It’s great having friends abroad. I’d trust Mr. Phy with my family, girlfriend – they just don’t get much better than this.

Off to Siem Reap in 2004 and I had the good fortune to meet another wonderful person, Mr. Sophoan. Also a tuk tuk driver, he spoke some Thai which made him an obvious choice to drive me around to hotels for the day while doing inspections. As I don’t speak Khmer and he doesn’t speak English, his Thai abilities were a bonus and we hit it off right away. He’s three years younger than me, has three children and like Mr. Phy has had a difficult life and is chronically short of cash. He spent 10 years in the 1990s doing construction in Bangkok, hence his Thai abilities. His honesty shone through immediately, we exchanged phone numbers, stayed in touch and I called him for rides every time I went back to Siem Reap. Unfortunately in 2006 his phone number no longer worked and we lost touch.

In December 2009 I returned to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to see some hotels, check out restaurants, meet with contacts, train guides and make sure all our trip elements were as good as they could be. Mr. Phy was my man about town (as usual) in Phnom Penh and will soon have to find a new place to live due to the main lake in town being filled-in for property development (it makes less sense than you think). Already strapped for cash he’s in for a tough time ahead. Many of his customers are secretly collecting money to help with the eventual move. His money woes aren’t anything to do with him personally; rather he’s a victim of the economic realities/challenges of where he was born. He’s likely harder working than I am, works more hours than I, but still can’t get ahead. Life isn’t fair sometimes. Strange how where you are born, something we can’t control, impacts so much of who we are and how our life will play out.

Standing in front of a fantastic bakery in Siem Reap, the Blue Pumpkin, I was waiting for some friends. During about 10 minutes, driver after driver approached; asked where I was going, offered to take me places I didn’t want to go and on it went. I was working really hard to keep smiling, be polite and ignore the monotony of unsolicited approaches, keeping in mind the tough economic challenges tuk tuk drivers face. Sure enough, the moment I lost my cool with the umpteenth person to approach, he kept talking and said, “Are you Mr. Scott with Albino?” Low and behold it was Mr. Sophoan who somehow remembered me after three years. Boy did I feel like an ass and what a great lesson to not lose one’s cool and try to remain empathetic to all. It was like the Buddha himself put this lesson in front of me.

Mr. Sophoan and his three daughters in front of Angkor Wat

Delighted to see each other we spent some time catching up and he was my driver for the next couple days. Seems he had to sell his mobile phone in 2006 and has not had money to buy one since. Times are still tough for him, his third child is about to enter school, which costs him about $1.50US/child/day. That might not seem much but a good day driving his tuk tuk brings in about $10US, leaving little money for food and other costs.

Despite times being obviously tough for him, his face looking thin, he was full of life, had a permanently huge smile and couldn’t do enough to try and make my time there smooth. We shared a meal together, caught up on one another’s lives and again it stuck me how unfair where you are born is. I’ve had life easy. Grew up in a safe environment, never had to flee my country due to genocide and had things so good I went around the world to try living somewhere else. Mr. Sophoan on the other hand couldn’t afford a mobile phone, an important tool in his trade.

The last day in Siem Reap I gave him one of Smiling Albino’s mobile phones that we give guests during their trips with us and money to buy a SIM card. Total cost was about $40US, not much for me, but a large amount for him. We parted ways, I asked him to send me his phone number via email or sms when he got a SIM card and wondered whether I would hear from him again. I’m sure the temptation to sell the phone was large and the money much needed. I was delighted to receive an email from him yesterday with his new phone number and in the message he called me his older brother many times.

Strange how life works, the cards we’re dealt and while we have so much control over our destinies, how little control we have over where in the world they start. We’re all people, same amount of blood; all require the same amount of food/water per day and have similar core needs. In reality, our lives could not be much different and the struggles we face further apart. The wonderful thing about travel is that it brings us together and enables us to learn about one another. I now have two friends a world away who I would never have known had it not been for travel. This opportunity to be friends, spend time together and learn about one another, our differences, and more importantly similarities is no doubt one of life’s greatest gifts.

by Scott Coates

A few pictures from a recent dirt biking trip with friends in Chiang Rai province. You can see the full gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Motorbiking/Chiang-Rai-Dirt-Biking-Nov-09/10498248_GZJik#728643509_36h7H

Derek blasting through

Greg in the hills of Doi Mae Salong

Sa-ngiam cruises

Sa-ngiam & Greg getting close to Doi Chang

Along the less-traveled path

Three amigos: Derek, Greg & Scott

See the full gallery here: http://photos.smilingalbino.com/Thailand-Photos/Motorbiking/Chiang-Rai-Dirt-Biking-Nov-09/10498248_GZJik#728643509_36h7H

Recently passing the 10 year anniversary of moving to Thailand you get to thinking. Thinking about all kinds of things. Big, small, things done, lessons learned, places visited.

Chiang Rai province, the northernmost of Thailand’s 76 is my favorite. There’s just no beating it if you like the mountains. It was our first choice for a northern adventure playground when we moved here and all those years ago. I’m still dazzled.

Trails: paved, dirt, double track, single track, shale, mud, sand, I love finding

Riding towards Doi Chang

them. I love riding and exploring them. Nothing gets me jazzed quite like that. Heading just a few km into the country and a few off the regular way and you find it, quickly. Small villages – people doing their thing as they have for ages, gorgeous backdrops and rich smiles. They’re everywhere. Go by, take it in, trade a smile, gesture, word and everyone’s the richer for it. That’s the base of travel. The core, main ingredient – mutual exchange.

Stay where you want, spend a ton doing it, eat at the fanciest restaurants, sleep in a hovel, eat fried race day after day, count every dollar, but the real memories, the real value are the exchanges. They can’t be bought. They can happen, take place, occur, be arranged, but they can’t be bought. Twenty villagers in costume waiting to perform traditional dances upon your arrival is hardly the same as the glow of someone asking your name out of sheer curiosity when meeting, the eyes exchanged while paying for a $0.25 item, the kindness of being handed fresh fruit in the country from farmers while cycling by. These are the real moments of value and something we’ve been fortunate to have experienced and live most days. What a great thing.

Really out there

Dirt biking on small, rugged paths SE of Chiang Rai city, passing fields/huts/houses I’ve seen a good number of times, I’m grinning. I’m still grinning after 10 years of traveling here. I’m still loving these scenes, the experiences, the exchanges. It’s been six months since my last visit, the longest drought during my time in the country. Hosting a couple friends on some favorite mountain trails for a couple days of dirt biking and mountain biking, it’s still a thrill, a treat, I’m still dazzled by this truly remarkable province.

Chiang Rai, often referred to as the Gateway to Indochina, China’s to the

Picking a narrow path at Doi Mae Salong

north, Laos’ to the east and Myanmar to the west. Only modern-day borders define formal lines  but this area has always been one of migrants, traders, socializing and transporting. Thai, Ahka, Lisu, Lahu, Tai Yai, Muser, Karen and on it goes – mixed people living together, happily. Mixing, trading, marrying and now you have it, a terrific and diverse bunch of people. The social landscape of one of the friendliest places and still my favorite in Thailand.

What a treat to enjoy something time and time and time again, to the core, for the people who live, work and call it home.

by Daniel Fraser

I escaped from the office for several days on a whirlwind exploration of Isaan – and a few country bars – to survey routes and find hidden gems for a November motorcycle journey.

Stepping out into a new region like this requires first-hand exploration by SA trip planners. We eat the food, find the back roads, sleep in the beds, but most of all we try find a way to seamlessly fit the best of all worlds together in the form of an itinerary we can be proud of. This can be tedious and enjoyable in the same minute. I covered hundreds of roads, crossing most off the list, ate at dozens of restaurants and surveyed all kinds of hotels, pubs, temples and other Isaan roadside attractions. For our trips to be authentic we need to experience it all first-hand, we need to meet the cook, high-five the bartender, tip the band, find the hidden roads and make sure the pool has water in it. Sounds easy….but there’s always more to it than meets the eye.

Consider this: 22 million live in Isaan which is serviced by 3 primary airports (Udon, Khon Kaen, Ubon). The road network is extensive and finding great routes between two points can involve multiple scenarios – each providing a new adventure or obstacle, usually both.

Finding great places to stay is paramount while surveying for an SA trip – and this is particularly challenging in Isaan. You may end up with several 300km + days in order to find the type of accommodations Smiling Albino would feel comfortable using.

The mountains of Loei – and their fabulous, quiet country roads make for some superb motorcycling. Then the gorgeous route along the Mekong River all the way towards Nong Khai means there can easily be 3-4 days of nice riding in the region. However, anything between Nong Khai, Udon and Nakorn Phanom is a lot of driving for little reward in terms of accommodation. There are very few accommodation option within 1hr of Udon or Nakorn Phanom to make an eastern loop worthwhile, and ending a trip at either location would be a downer after the great mountain rides in Loei, and the lovely scenery along the Mekong.

The key to success for a two-wheeled journey in this region is finding secondary roads in good condition – which is also particularly challenging in Isaan. There is no shortage of good food, rhythmic country music and good cheer. Isaan has an endearing charm – completely on its own terms – that in itself is worth the journey.

Trying to summarize six, 14-hr days is best done by mentioning a few must-do’s that will figure into future SA motorcycle trips in this region.

the flat, curvy road along the Mekong, Loei

Top 5’s for motorcycling:

1 – the long route from Wang Saphung (90min west of Udon) south through the Phu Luang Mountrain Range is stunning – and the road is one of the best motorcycling (or biking) routes I’ve seen in Isaan.

2 – the classic ride from Chiang Khan nearly all the way to Nong Khai; 150km of wide turns and broad river views.

3 – the elevated rural road south of the Phu Tok Temple all the way down through Sri Songkram and emptying out in Nakorn Phanom. If you have the time – and can handle a night of dull accommodations – this is a great country ride. Spotless road, great reservoir views, and quaint towns with good food along the way.

4 – the long road into Udon from Sakhon Nakorn, following secondary roads south of Udon through the millions of rice fields and villages.

5 – Smiling Albino’s new shortcut 30km before Chiang Khan through a series of postcard-worthy villages and brilliant green pastures.

Top 5 SA-approved places to stay if weaving it together on motorcycle

1 – the Loei mountains, of course, are a real draw, so a couple of nights here in the more atmospheric places like Phu Pha Nam and Chachanat Woodland Retreat are worth a night or two. Some daily motorcycle sorties would be outstanding from either location.

Mekong Villas Thai House, Loei

2 – Mekong Villas Baan Huai Faen

This hideaway has all the exclusivity and regal charm of Chakrabongse Villa in Bangkok. Superb location 150km before Nong Khai along the Mekong and 34km from Chiang Khan.

3 – Green Gecko and Gecko Villa near Udon is another great find. Private, classy country home with luxury finishings and a beautiful Thai home neslted in the forest.

4 – If golfing……Victory Golf Club south of Nong Khai has comfortable rooms on the golf course, so a decent view, and around a pool, so a short stroll for a dip. Not fancy, but not a highway motor inn either.

5 – In terms of service with a smile, great food, real coffee, exclusive river views and people who seem to care what they are doing, the Mut Mee Guesthouse in Nong Khai is a winner. Probably not the right fit for Smiling Albino trips as the lack of mini bar and pool / spa could throw the SA Team and our guests into a spin. Nong Khai Resort, though an odd location, has the amenities lacking above – but of course lacks the charm and location of the Mut Mee.

A few must-do’s that will figure into future SA trips in Isaan

1 – The Adventurous Side

Excellent motorcycling, gorgeous hikes, treacherous staircases, fun country bars, the Mighty Mekong and a well-planned itinerary means you’re in for a supreme good time in Thailand’s wild northeast.

2 – The Spiritual Side

Sala Kaew Koo, Wat Phu Tok near Sri Wilai and Wat Phanom, of course, are very good excuses to make long day loops out along the Mekong for a little slice of nirvana.

3 – The Gastronomic Side

The heart and soul of Thai / Lao cuisine…..with some occasional intestines and dancing shrimp thrown in!

Isaan food is superb and will be a focal point on any SA trip out here. From street-side “nam tok” stands to the more elaborate garden-style restaurants, Isaan is a culinary adventure.

4 – The Musical Side

Country music bars: this is the real deal in Isaan where music is as deep as religion. Isaan music, particularly “maw laam”, has an almost hypnotic bounce to it that makes for a fun night out. Sprinkling some “music for life” or pua cheewit into the mix absolutely means you’ll have fun in the small towns of Isaan.

5 – The Lighter Side

Let’s face it, Isaan involves a few more bumps and grinds than the rest of Thailand, and as a visitor you’ll need to learn to laugh at yourself, and others, with the same genuine goodness as the locals.

Today was a real treat. Smiling Albino partner and Siam Wheels founder, Derek van Pelt treated Scott & Dan to a day riding three of his gorgeous Harley Davidsons.
We met at Derek’s house in eastern Bangkok about 09:30, learned about the bikes then headed out for a planned ride to Khao Yai National Park, one of the kingdom’s largest.
At first these bikes seemed really big and heavy as prior to this the largest craft I had ridden was a 500cc Royal Enfield in Nepal. My bike, a 2008 Fat Boy has a 1,600cc engine with a really comfy seat, great purr and truly was a joy to ride from the first minute. Dan had a great time on his V-Rod, so much so that he wouldn’t let me have a go once he was on it. Derek did a great job leading the way on his Electra Glide Classic along with his Garmin GPS magic mapping machine to assist here and there.
The power of these bikes is really something else and anytime I needed a little boost to pass someone it was there and then some. I was reminded how great Thailand’s roads are, even the secondary ones as we easily cruised at 100km/hr with little effort and only a few potholes here and there. Lush rice fields lined the highway then we were treated to thick jungle foliage after entering Khao Yai National Park as we made our way to the top of a lookout at Khao Kiew. After a coffee to spur us on it was time to turn around and head back to the big city.
All up it was a 355km day and one I hope to do again as soon as possible.
Best of luck with Siam Wheels Derek!