The Sofitel Metropole Hanoi is often mentioned in the same sentence as the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok or Raffles Singapore.

Vintage fleet at a vintage location

The Metropole, built in 1901, is Vietnam’s grand dame of hotels whose famous white neo-classical facade has become one of Hanoi’s primary landmarks.

I have visited and inspected the hotel on many occasions, and Smiling Albino recently hosted European celebrity media for a series of events at the hotel in early 2010. During May 2010 I had an opportunity to experience the fullness of the hotel as an in-house guest, and The Metropole delivers on multiple levels.

Originally built by two French investors at the turn of the 20th Century, The Metropole has been under the management of Accor’s luxury arm, Sofitel, for several years. The original building, known as the Old Wing or Classical Wing, has been lovingly restored and features 3 room categories:

Old Wing Grand Luxury

Luxury Room (32sqm), Grand Luxury Room (37sqm), and The Legendary Suite (70sqm). These rooms are for the romantics, the nostalgia fans, those wishing to celebrate the colonial grandeur of Indochina. Period artwork and photographs line the walls, and the Old Wing gives the air of a luxury French mansion for heads of state, authors, and dignitaries.

The New Wing is a 7-story addition on the opposite side of the pool and garden area. Completed in 2007, it features stylish, neoclassical rooms with brilliant colour and lighting schemes. The New Wing still carries the air of colonial French influence, with internal shutter windows and replica claw foot bathtubs and wide hallways. The rooms feature wood and carpeted floors with fresh, tropical colours, pink, scarlet, mauve. Overall the New Wing rooms feel slightly larger and brighter than their vintage sisters in the Old Wing. Located on the side of the hotel closest to Hanoi’s gorgeous Opera House, the New Wing is also referred to as the “Opera Wing”. New Wing Rooms feature four categories: Premium Rooms (32sqm), Grand Premium Rooms (48sqm), Prestige Suites (64sqm), and the hotel’s top room, the Grand Prestige Suite (176swm).

Opera Wing Grand Premium Room

My favourite in this category is the Prestige Suite, which features fresh colours and a creative room layout, a half-wall separating the bathroom and lounging area, and a large bedroom with contemporary furniture featuring a perfect blend of colonial and Vietnamese styles.

Old Wing vs New Wing

This a “Coke vs Pepsi” debate that doesn’t have a definitive answer, and ultimately comes down to taste. The “Classic Wing vs Opera Wing” debate has gone on in the Smiling Albino office as much as the “Mandarin Oriental Bangkok vs Peninsula Bangkok” debate has. The Metropole’s Director of Rooms commented in fun that, “…the Old Wing is for lovers, the New Wing for artists…”.

Old Wing (also known as Historical or Classical Wing) rooms are located on the original three-story building of the hotel. They feature high ceilings, French window shutters, dark wood and period lamp shades, desks and accessories. There is more of a museum-like atmosphere, with a beautiful original wood staircase, open lobby with oil paintings, and a vintage telephone-booth sized elevator. The New Wing is a dramatic contrast as you exit the lift onto the floors with fashionable designer wallpaper and brilliantly striped carpets and furniture. There is a flair of Parisian hipness in this part of the hotel, and the New Wing rooms are a little more cutting edge, taking advantage of natural light and modern design innovations. The Old Wing rooms are more nostalgic, elegant, and subtle. Neither lacks luxury or class. The beds, bathroom fixtures, electronics are top drawer and the fines level of luxury.

Recommending which room is right for you and for your trip is serious business.

Smiling Albino recommends room types with an eye to our guest’s overall program, taking into account where else they are staying in Vietnam. For example, if guests are also going to Dalat and staying at the palatial Sofitel Dalat Palace , then in Hanoi we’d recommend New Wing rooms at The Metropole as the Old Wing rooms would too closely resemble the vintage colonial feel of the Dalat Palace. Same applies for La Residence in Hue, or Majestic Hotel in Saigon. Both offer an early 20^th Century classical French-style grand hotel. However, if staying at Pilgrimage Village in Hue, which is a modern luxury reincarnation of a traditional Vietnamese village, and staying contemporary in Saigon, then perhaps the Old Wing Rooms at Metropole Hanoi provide the colonial checkmark for the full deck Vietnam hotel experience.

As a general rule:

New Wing:

“Dish me up some designer-cool with a subtle stroke of colonial class. We thought Mandarin Oriental Bangkok was okay, but we’d prefer The Peninsula Bangkok next time around.”

Old Wing

“Forget the fancy contemporary flair as we can do that anywhere, we want to step back into the grandeur of colonial Indochina. Besides, we loved Mandarin Oriental Bangkok and can’t get enough of it.”

Last point, I did notice the New Wing rooms had a slightly younger crowd, there were designer jeans and fancy shoes. The Old Wing crowd featured a bit of everything, but generally a little older, fewer iPhones.

Swimming Pool with a view to the Opera Wing

The pool, spa, fitness room, restaurants are of course in a league of their own in Hanoi. Even if not staying at the hotel, some afternoon drinks in the Bamboo Bar around the pool is a must, as is Le Beaulieu for a quick peak and absolutely Angelina’s Bar for multiple cocktails and Hanoi high society intrigue. This is a local hot spot for events and business gatherings, and fashion shows, etc.

Smiling Albino was recently selected by Clarins Cosmetics Co. to host a retinue of top French media in Vietnam during their orientation to The Metropole’s Le Spa, which features Clarins’ wellness products. The spa is world class and deserves a visit for a treatment. One of the best in Vietnam.

Meet us for a drink in Le Club!

There are some outstanding top end hotels in Hanoi, not forgetting the sleek new Intercontinental Westlake, and the Sofitel Plaza, as well as old favourites the Hanoi Hilton and Sheraton. In addition to being the most storied hotel in town, Metropole Hanoi is right in the heart of the action just a few blocks from the lake. The Metropole has no equal in Hanoi, which comes at a price, but the overall experience can’t be discounted.

Smiling Albino can arrange rooms and services at Metropole Hanoi at competitive rates, and as part of your customized Smiling Albino adventure in Vietnam.

As experience design specialists, we make a point of being as close to the final product as possible, and that includes having an intimate knowledge of accommodation options we propose to our valued guests. Anyone can book a resort, but knowing which resort is right for which guest in relation to their larger SA experience involves some science.

Last week I stayed a couple of nights at Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi, one of the flagship properties of the luxury-wellness resort group, Six Senses. Having stayed at Six Senses Evason Resort in Phuket, and also recently at Soneva Kiri on Ko Kood, I had equally big expectations for Yao Noi. In short, the resort is absolutely stunning.

view from the suites

The Approach – I’m a fussy traveler and hate multiple transitions to get to the beach, but the Six Senses people make the transition relatively painless. I landed in Phuket at 0900am, and was met by the resort staff, then transferred 25 minutes in a BMW 5-Series to the Ao Po pier (ride was enjoyable but some ambient music would have been a nice addition to get you into island mood, or perhaps a piece of lemongrass to gnaw on for fun.) At Ao Po pier the resort staff pack your bags on to the large, comfortable speedboat, and then a nice 45-min ride brings you to the resort.

The view of the resort from the water doesn’t do justice to the tropical luxury therein. Mostly covered by dense foliage, the views of wooden rooftops scattered over an expansive hill are all you can see beyond the long, wooden pier. Turning your head 180 degrees however enables the stunning view of Krabi and the hundreds of karsts dotting the distant sea.

Arrival at Six Senses resorts is always smooth – it is one of the highlights. Your ‘Butler’ and the rest of the resort team greet you right from the boat, attend to your bags, feed you a drink, and whisk you away on a golf cart to your hideaway. For the duration of your stay your personal butler attends to your needs, arranges dinner reservations and activity excursions, and personally takes care of your check-in/check-out. This simple in-room check-in process could easily be done at virtually any resort, but oddly it isn’t. There is value in it and the Six Senses folks have it down to a science.

For those with no time for the BMW and boat trip to the resort, a helicopter transfer can be arranged approximately $1,000US per way from Phuket. This would be a lovely way to arrive with the hundreds of islands and karsts dotting the approach.

Pool Villa Suite

Rooms – I’ve been spoiled here in SE Asia with the opportunity to stay at some of the finest resorts in the world, and the rooms at Six Senses Yao Noi rank up with the best of them at their price range. My room was #51, a Pool View Suite, on the nearest side to the pier and water sports area (perhaps they knew…).

The master bedroom is a spacious, full-windowed suite with tropical hardwoods and state-of-the-art gadgetry and audiophile treats, a steam room, and so many nooks and crannies and places to hang things that I’m sure I donated half of my clothes unknowingly to the resort. Below the room is a spacious pool deck, your private pool, and the 2nd bedroom in the case of the suites. There is also a nice wooden deck bridge that leads to a garden area and sala for afternoon chess or quiet reading. No steal beams or concrete pillars or platforms – the entire room and surrounding area is hardwood and exotic, tropical furniture. The rooms are gorgeous, offer total privacy, multiple bathing/showering/lounging options, and eclipse the private tropical villa fantasy image.

Living Room in the Pool Villa

Some other rooms to note:

Slightly closer to earth are the entry level rooms, Pool Villa and Deluxe Pool Villa, which are the same in virtually every respect as the Pool Villa Suite less the 2nd bedroom.

Ultra Luxury Suites

The Retreat is the resort’s 2nd highest room category. There is only one of them, and it features two separate master bedroom villas, an enormous private pool with panorama views and Olympic-sized deck, as well as a large common room for entertainment, meals, etc. This would be brilliant for a couple of small families, or a pair of couples. A few kids could be set up with extra beds in the common room (200sqm or so itself). Fabulous private hideaway surrounded by lush natural surroundings.

Aerial shot of The Reserve upon approach from the clouds

This room is fit with extra rooms for nannies and bodyguards, has a full conference room and wine cellar, gym, sauna/Jacuzzi and an enormous indoor/outdoor common area with multiple tables and lounging facilities, a water slide (great for kids, or adults after enjoying the wine cellar). The grand, tropical luxury of this super suite just might be worth the price. The view alone from opening the front doors has to be one of the most magnificent panoramas in all of Thailand.

Out and About Six Senses Yao Noi - Getting around the resort is easy with multiple buggies whizzing back and forth. My room was one of the furthest from the dining area but I found the 5-minute walk quite nice through stone pathways and wooden bridges. Ordinarily I don’t like buggy resorts where guests are left in sequestered corners of massive resort complexes, but the size here at Six Senses Yao Noi is very manageable on foot, or, as is the custom, just call your butler for a buggy. A short walk out the back gate leads you to the tennis court and a small local village if you’d like to briefly re-connect to the rest of the planet.

There are only 56 units at Six Senses Yao Noi, so the distances to the spa, gym, restaurants, beaches, etc. are all very doable without the buggies.

Service - This isn’t a 5-star resort, it is an ultra luxury resort, so the expectations one would have for service could make evaluating it rather severe. The service was very good – although at breakfast I did wait longer than I like to for someone to offer coffee on the 2nd day, and the milk wasn’t warmed as I’d requested on the first day. A very minor detail, however ultra luxury resorts should get this right.

The spa and fitness center were well attended with spiffy, knowledgeable staff. The butlers are the real stars here, and as they are commissioned to attend to your every need, the result clearly is that the service is excellent. The beach staff vanish when not required, and magically reappear out of nowhere (from the forest I think) when needed.

Food/Beverage – This is a great place to eat! I started with my customary club sandwich (Dan’s gold standard starter for any hotel). It may have eclipsed the supernatural club sandwich I had at Soneva Kiri, though it was 30% more expensive, but perhaps wasn’t as heroic as my personal favourite at D2 Pattaya. Either way, it paved the way for several more great dishes, salads, burgers, Greek sides, Italian pastas, and spontaneous off-menu Thai dishes as well. Everything was outstanding in accordance with the cost of each dish.

Happy Hour at The Den

Dining at The Den and the The Dining Room are both cool experiences. The Den is a large wooden, two-story house with ambient music, massive couches with pillows and coloured cushions. You could slurp cocktails here all night and never tire of the groovy, chill-out vibe. Again, very nice, well-trained staff.

East Beach

The Beach – The resort is built on a hill that slopes onto two different beaches: front beach and back beach. The back beach beside the pier is the water sports area – again well attended by attentive staff. I went kayaking at sunset to some remote beaches around the bay. Very user-friendly. The front beach is gorgeous – a great stretch of manicured beach sloping into clear water – the postcard image of idyllic sandy bliss. Sunsets here on the east side are fantastic as the trees and umbrellas cast long shadows into the water – creating pockets of sunshine and shaded swimming holes. The beach is wide enough to stretch out and have a full game of Red Rover, but it is doubtful this occurs very often. There are a series of deck chairs on a white sand bluff, attended by staff that seem to float in and out from the sky.

The Crowd – During my stay in April the guest mix was nicely eclectic. Young couples, Scandinavian families, retired couples, plus a few middle-aged single travelers. It was a healthy-looking, smart crowd, part of the extended Six Senses fan club of which I’m becoming a member (smart notwithstanding in my case).

Take-Aways - From tennis to snorkelling to wine tasting courses, there’s no shortage of things to do here. Those who fear being locked-in to a resort and prefer the freedom of strolling out into the real world might be claustrophobic. However, most Six Senses guests tend to indulge in the resort itself and intentionally shut off the outside world, so it is doubtful that this would be a drawback for any potential guest. The ‘Hideaway’ series of resorts in the Six Senses repertoire certainly make hiding away a pleasure.

Minor annoyances are the need to make dinner plans in advance. This is due to the intimate seating arrangements at each of the funky restaurants. You can always choose in-villa dining, or splurge for private BBQ or private beach dining, so this may only be a drawback for indecisive types like myself.

Sunset from The Reserve

We have sent several Smiling Albino guests to Six Senses resorts around Thailand, including Yao Noi, and the reviews are always exceptional. Our guests have high expectations – which is why we feel comfortable putting those expectations into the care of the Six Senses team. Often we supplement their experience there by offering our own value-added features like customized paddling outings to remote caves and islands, eco-discoveries with recognized experts, etc.

All in this is a spectacular tropical luxury experience. The transfer in and minor commutes within the resort are quickly overshadowed by the luxurious chill-out vibe the villas and grounds create. Food, while expensive even for a high-end resort, is quite outstanding, and the overall services and amenities are fit for the price tag. Per one of the Six Senses mottos, it redefines experiences….

Ideal for couples, honeymooners, families, those able to make advance dinner plans.

Some may say this is slightly Vietnam food, but I rather say that is Thais because the ingredients are typically thai. It may a bit difficult to cook, it make take loads of time but  you won’t feel wasting your time making this after your first taste it.

Ingredients:

• Glass noodle – 50g.
• Lean pork, minced – 5og.
• Cooked shrimp, peeled and chopped (option) – 50g.
• Cabbage sliced – 50g.
• Bean sprout – 50g.
• Garlic, finely chopped – 1 clove.
• Shallot, finely chopped – 2 tbsp. / 30ml.
• Egg – 1
• Vegetable oil – 1tbsp. / 15ml.
• Pepper – 1tsp. / 5ml.
• Carrot, grated – 1
• Spring roll wrapper – 10
• Cooking oil (for deep-fried) – 2 cup. / 480ml.
• Oyster sauce – 1tbsp. / 15ml.
• Soy sauce – 1tbsp. / 15ml.

Preparation:

• To prepare filling, in a wok, stir-fried minced pork, prawn(shrimp) and garlic in oil, until cooked.
• Season with pep, salt, sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce. Add bean sprouts, cabbage, glass noodles and carrot, stir briefly, and remove from heat. Place in a bowl.
• Now for the packaging, use a clean damp cloth or towel to keep the spring roll wrapper on the cutting board with a corner towards you. Wet all the edges with egg. Place 1tbsp of filling in the nearest corner to smoothly rolled. Seal the edges with more egg. Repeat with remaining with wrappers and filling.
• Deep-fry spring rolls in hot cooking oil, several at a time, turning then over to brown evenly. Do not over cook, as they become soggy inside. Drain on absorbent kitchen paper.

This is served for 2 and Enjoy your Songkran Festival!

by Scott Coates

Phnom Penh (PP) is one of those places that sounds exotic, strange and conveys all kinds of wild images to travelers, especially if you’ve never been there. And it is all those things. With a storied history, most visitors go to see the notorious S21 Prison and Killing Fields, truly chilling but highly worthwhile stops.

The city is a collision of the working poor, the ruling rich and lots of foreigners working for non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and the

Drinks at the FCC

United Nations (UN). As a result PP is a city of two worlds – one for locals and one for foreigners making foreign salaries. All this foreign money buzzing around requires spending and we foreigners love to drink and dine.

While you wouldn’t initially think of PP as a top place to enjoy food and drink, it’s a wonderful place to do so. As there are foreign residents from around the world calling it home, there’s almost every kind of cuisine on offer, and at very affordable prices compared to the west. The same can be said of places to relax, drink and party the night away.

Bangkok truly has everything but when I want a fun weekend indulging on food and beverage I jump a flight to PP, meet up with friends and let the good times roll. Here are some of Smiling Albino’s favorite haunts:

Food
FCC: 363 Sisowath Quay, 023-724-014
While a stop on most travelers’ list, the FCC is well worth popping in to, be it for a relaxing drink or tasty bite to eat. Enjoy the breeze and great river views. A bit pricey but a perfect place to see and be seen.

Friends: 215 Street 13, 012-802-072
Eating has never been so helpful! Friends takes street kids and trains them in the hospitality industry with all profits going to support the training of more people. Eat, eat, eat!

Java Arts Cafe: 56 E1 Preah Sihanouk Bvld., 023-987-420
Near the Independence Monument, this café/gallery serves awesome sandwiches, sweets and coffee. Closed on Mondays.

Rooftop patio at Tamarind

The Tamarind: #31 Street 240, 012-830-139
Mediterranean food is the order of the day – a seriously tasty establishment and healthy too. There’s a good number of bars nearby for after dinner drinks too.

Freebird: #69 Street 240, 023-224-712
Fancy a bit of Americana then this is the place. Burgers, beer and a truly western atmosphere make this place a favorite of the expat community.

Beverage
Maxine’s (Snow’s): Tonle Sap Rd, 012-200-617, closed Mondays
Known as ‘Snow’s’ you’ll need a local ‘in-the-know’ to get here. Without a doubt one of the most unique places you’ll ever drink at. Over the Japanese Bridge, down a dark road and you’re there. A wild décor, balcony overlooking the river and funky host ‘Snow’ make this an insider’s gem. You’re likely to come back for seconds.

Equinox: #3A, Street 278, 092-791-958
A lounge, bar, gallery and one of the city’s hottest nightspots, you’re sure to make friends and enjoy great beverages.

Café Metro: Corner Sisowath Quay & Street 148, 023-222-275
A very modern lounge/restaurant that truly exemplifies modern Phnom Penh – come and rub shoulders with the city’s upper-crust. Great place for mojitos and wine.

Rubies: Corner Streets 19 & 240, 012-823-962
Dark reds both in bottles and on the wall make this a soothing place to sip

Freebird's novel toilet freshener

wine and really chill out. There are a good number of other places nearby making a night out easy.

Elephant Bar: inside Raffles Hotel Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, 023-981-888
One of the city’s oldest bars and most upscale, enjoy half-price drinks during happy hour from 4-8pm and mix it up with the expat community and well-healed travelers.

Zeppelin Café: #109C, Street 51 (next to Walkabout), 012-881-181
The theme is rock n’ roll spun from vinyl. A laid-back atmosphere, cold beer and great Chinese dumplings make this a good place to rock-out.

Fancy hitting some of these places in style? Sign-on for our magical, six-day Classic Cambodia trip!

by Scott Coates

While Thailand’s beers, Singha, Leo and Chang are tasty, I prefer darker ales when available. In fact my favorite beer is almost as dark as they come.

My love affair with Guinness began back in 1993 during a visit to England. It was hardly love as I remember having to plug my nose to drink what tasted awful at that time. For some reason I got it in my head that Guinness was a special beer that if I applied myself I would come to like. A handful of forced glasses, a few years of age on my part and it’s now my favorite beer – period.

When I moved to Asia in 1999 there were only a few places in Bangkok that

The author enjoying a pint

served Guinness and it was expensive – about $10US/pint. Occasionally I treated myself to the odd pint but it was a rare thing. During the Rugby World Cup in 2007 Guinness dropped in price to about $5US/pint and my love affair was reignited. Over the last few years the number of pubs serving Guinness has grown considerably around the city much to my and travelers’ delight.

While we expose our guests to as many things Thai during Smiling Albino adventures we well understand the need to replenish one’s iron levels and enjoy a creamy pint of thick black goodness now and again. While Smiling Albino has not had a Guinness at every establishment in Bangkok serving it (we’re getting close) we have some favorites to share. When you’re in the City of Angels and in need of a pint, try these places:

The Dubliner
Perhaps Bangkok’s best Irish Pub, the décor is cozy, staff friendly, pub food tasty and they serve a nice pint of Guinness. Ask them to take their time on the pour and they’re more than happy to prolong it. Tuesdays are a perfect day to indulge as they have a promotion where your first pint is full price and subsequent pints are 100B/each ($3.5US).

Gulliver’s
They have several locations around the country but the Sukhumvit Soi 5 location is my favorite due to their patio. Despite being a hot country there are few patios in Bangkok. Gulliver’s has a large one and the crowd on Soi 5 is very interesting to watch to say the least. Friendly staff, pool tables inside, sports on large TVs and a diverse menu make this a good place for everyone.

Soi 8 Pub & Restaurant
A little gem tucked in Sukhumvit Soi 8, this place feels like any pub overseas. Nothing fancy, but good pours, a decent menu and pretty good band keeps things moving at night. It’s best at night and again they’re happy to take their time pouring the pint if you ask.

The Roadhouse
A huge restaurant/pub located in a prime location, The Roadhouse has it all – food, sports, foosball, and yes, Guinness. Three floors make up this large meeting place that focuses on barbeque foods and they do it well. While one of the more expensive pints in the city it’s a nice place to relax for a while before hitting the town.

Mojo’s
A bit of a different place that’s definitely not for everyone, if you’re looking for music, a dark room and coyote dancers, this is the place. Featuring friendly staff, pool tables, a decent live band and of course Guinness, this is a fun place to see a slightly darker side of Bangkok – worth a visit for at least one pint.

If you’re in need of an international beer (please try a few Thai varieties first), the above mentioned are good bets. Enjoy your pint!

by Scott Coates

Smiling Albino launched adventures in Nepal in October 2006. During the development of our first trip there, the Nepal Grand Slam, and subsequent trips like the Nepal Trek and Trail, I’ve been lucky enough to spend about eight months in the country over the last four years.

A nation steeped in tradition, Nepal is a true natural melting pot as the Mongoloid people of the Himalayas and Tibetan plateau have meet, traded and mixed with the Caucasoid people of the lower Indian subcontinent in the Kathmandu Valley (1,350m) for thousands of years. As a result you have a people that are very diverse in their appearance, religion and cuisines. In 1950 the doors to this former kingdom swung open to foreign visitors and with it came an influx of hippie travelers in the 1970s. Foreigners brought with them their love of food from home and today Kathmandu and its Thamel district, home base for most travelers, is a hot bed of food and drink from around the globe.
I never would have dreamed before visiting that my favorite pizza would be found in Kathmandu or that some of the best brownies can be found here too.

Here are some of my favorite spots to eat, snack and drink in Kathmandu:

Snacking
Helena’s: Rooftop patios are a staple in Kathmandu. A wonderful place to get a feeling for the layout of the city, few buildings are more than six stories high and there’s a wide range of patios to chose from. One of my favorites is Helena’s due to it being the highest in the Thamel area at 6.5 stories. You may want to rope-off or use oxygen on your way up the stairs but once you’ve summitted you’re in for a treat. Views of the Kathmandu valley abound, they have a full menu, but it’s cold beer and brownies that with a deck of playing cards that keep me coming back.

The Best Finger Chips: I’m not sure if this is the actual name of the food counter, but it’s the main point you’ll notice on their sign. Located near the Bamboo Restaurant, not so far from the Courtyard Hotel, this little side-of-the-alley-counter is a favorite with locals wanting some fast, fried snacks. Their French Fries are great, with a choice of a dozen neat sauces – my favorite being Devil sauce. Grab a medium bag of fries, cold beer, newspaper and enjoy.

A sketch of Mike's

Breakfast
Mike’s Breakfast: Located in the heart of the city in a quiet, walled-compound, Mike’s was started by you guessed it, Mike. He’s no longer with us, but left a great place to relax and enjoy a meal, especially breakfast. Favorites are the breakfast hash and breakfast burrito. Both sure bets to fill your stomach and get the day going. The environment is supremely relaxing, coffee refills abundant and the staff has been there forever. They also have a branch along the lake in Pokhara. Pick up Mike’s cookbook for an interesting history/perspective on the country.

Pizza
The Roadhouse: Thin crust pizza gets no better than at the Roadhouse. Started by a group of Nepalese restaurateurs some years ago, they specialize in western fare and pizzas, freshly baked in their wood-fired oven. They now have four branches in the Kathmandu Valley and I’ve never been disappointed. Their Thamel location is very near Helena’s.
My favorite is pick four toppings: bacon, jalapeños, capsicum and pepperoni.

Chillin’
The Courtyard Hotel: I’m charmed by nice owners and Poujean is one of the country’s best. A dashing Nepalese guy, he was schooled in Seattle and came back to his homeland around 2000 to remodel and run his family’s hotel. Cool rooms make it a great place to stay, but it’s their large courtyard with pillows that provide a perfect escape from bustling Thamel. In the day try a masala tea and bowl of Tukpa soup and in the evening, saunter into the very stylish and homey lounge for a range of top-shelf spirits. They also have free wifi which works here and there (this is Nepal).

Upstairs Bar: Chedup, Upstairs’ owner, is a legend in his own time. The owner of a rafting company as well as Kathmandu’s coolest bar, you’ll see him here most nights – he’s the guy with the long dreadlocks. Sit at picnic tables, on pillows on the floor or for something really interesting have a peak behind the green door. Expats in the know head here for generous pours, friendly conversation, the best Momos (Tibetan dumplings) in the city and good live music on Wednesdays and Fridays. Sting even drops by when he’s in town. You’ll find it in a small alley on Lazimpat Rd.

Sam’s Bar: A locals’ haunt and favorite of world-class climbers in the area, Sam’s is about as laid back, cool and central in Thamel as it gets. You’ll see the sign on the side of the road, then head upstairs to their cool patio. Popcorn is free, service great and there’s always lots of neat people to meet. It’s also one of the latest operating bars in the area. If you show up late and it looks closed, have a quiet wander inside to be sure as they’re pretty stealth but usually still serving.

Indian
Indian curries, Nan bread and other staples can be found almost anywhere in Kathmandu but my favorites are two simple places about 2km from Thamel on Lazimpat Rd.

Tandori Hut: If cheap plastic tables and chairs are your thing, then you’ll love it here. Truly a locals’ pl.ace, there’s nothing fancy here, but the Chicken Tikka Masala curry is to die for and a meal for two with a couple beer will only set you back $10US. I must eat here each and every time I visit the city.

Bahri: Opened in 2008, it’s quickly become a favorite with well-healed

Mike's cookbook

Nepalese and those in the know. Various rooms in a house provide a variety of environments and the food is tops. The Palak Paneer is to die for and the prices very reasonable too. You can’t go wrong here.

Juice
Juice: That’s all the sign says, but they do a great job of it. Located in Thamel, also near the Bamboo restaurant and not far from the Courtyard Hotel, you’ll find this little shop next to an antique shop and there’re lots of fruits to choose from. Pick one or a couple and they’ll blend it into a tasty beverage.

All this typing has got me dying to go back to Kathmandu.
Book a Smiling Albino Nepal adventure and taste for yourself!

by Scott Coates

October 12, 2009 was a sad day. My favorite Thai restaurant of all time closed and will move location.

The masters, Ton & Elle in front of their cooking station

Ran Ton as it’s known (Ton’s Restaurant) looked like nothing more than a typical side-of-the-road, quick Thai food restaurant, similar to any of the thousands of streets in Bangkok. Typical except for the fact that it had the best Thai food in the kingdom – period.

Whether foreign or Thai friends, everyone who came to the restaurant loved it. They commented on how tasty the dishes were and how they couldn’t believe how much better simple dishes like fried rice were. The secret, I have no idea. What I can tell you is that his fried rice, used as the baseline dish when grading restaurants, was by far the best fried rice I’ve ever had. The same goes for almost every other dish he made.

In early 2000 I moved to my street, Ramkamhang Soi 52/2, and that first night had a plate of noodles at Ran Ton. Little did I know then I would become addicted to Ton’s food and he would become a celebrated chef amongst my inner circle.
Over the years local friends, visiting friends/family and a good number of Smiling Albino (SA) guests had the opportunity to try his food. And over the years almost every single person commented how great that food was. A number of SA guests requested on subsequent trips to have a meal at Ran Ton (not convenient to their hotel) which is really a testament to the fare.

Scott & Ton enjoying a beer together

Ton and his wife Elle, both graduates of Ramkamhang University with a degree in Civil Engineering, opened Ran Ton in early 2000. Despite having degrees, entry level jobs in their field paid poorly and they decided to try making a go of it with their own little restaurant. They quickly attracted a dedicated following and have been going gang-busters since. Married in 2002, they recently got pregnant with Elle due in November 2009. In quest of higher income they decided to move about 10km further east from the old location and open in a village that doesn’t have many eating choices and is home to higher-income families. The idea is to go from selling 30B/plate ($0.90US) dishes to 50B/plate ($1.75US) dishes. At the end of the day the ingredients and labor are the same, so the economics are a no brainer.

Perhaps the reason Ran Ton’s food was so good is that it’s super fresh. He would head to the market every morning, buy just enough for the day and commonly run out of ingredients about 8-9pm. He’d cook to order and never rush a dish. Perhaps there’s something in TLC that makes food taste better. If so, then he threw a tone in.

At the end of the day while personally sad Ran Ton will no longer be my go-to eatery, I’m very happy for this nice couple and their chance to make a better living at a new location. I will (and do) miss their food dearly and will no doubt be making the 10km commute to the new Ran Ton on occasion. Something I’m very proud of, I had the last meal served at Ran Ton – the last customer of an era.

To the success of Ton, Elle and their child to come! I’ll miss you and your food dearly.

by Scott Coates

One of Smiling Albino’s (SA) prime focuses has always been to provide supreme service. From the moment you arrive in the country you’re traveling with us, to the final “goodbye”, we strive to exceed your expectations.

The entire SA Team from those in our Bangkok office that answer your initial emails and phone calls, to the talented people who book the hotels/guides/air tickets/motorbikes/elephants/etc, to the group that hand-produce your customized Adventure Handbook to the guides and Team on the ground who personally host you, we never stop learning, training and trying to make each trip better than the one before it. Hopefully we hit-the-mark and then some!

The Serenade of the Seas

Recently my parents took me on an eight-day Alaska cruise for my birthday. Friends and guests cautioned many times that perhaps I would not like a cruise do to the nature of the trips we lead and our many personal trips that tend to be quite adventures and spontaneous in nature. I must admit the idea of a cruise was semi-appealing but I did wonder if I’d be bored or tire of playing BINGO on the Lido deck.

August 8, 2009: my parents and I arrived at the Ballantyne Pier in Vancouver, BC about 12:30. Our bags out of the taxi, a team of porters were on them and promised they’d be waiting in our staterooms shortly (pre-printed baggage tags with our names/room numbers were provided by mail prior to the cruise).

A speedy line was already in full swing with the 2,400 guests boarding the Serenade of the Seas, a 962ft long ship, part of the Royal Caribbean fleet. A few minutes later and we were guided to a check-in counter, gave an imprint of our credit cards, received a Stateroom Card which opens your room door and is used for charging all purchases during the trip, which you pay at the end. Up the gangway, through US Customs (as we would be visiting ports in Alaska), we scanned our Stateroom Cards at the ship’s door and we were in!

The moment we stepped on board smiles abound, more people said “hello” in those first 15 minutes then in the first 15 years of my life. It seemed the entire Serenade of the Seas crew had taken some serious Happy Pills just minutes before we boarded. We slowly made our way to our staterooms, stopping to “oooh” and “aaaah” at the amazing lobby, many bars, cafés and on and on and on. Upon arrival at Stateroom 3132 our Stateroom Attendant Linda, from Peru, welcomed us and made sure we were happy and settled-in.
I was expecting a small room like you’d get on a train but this was not the case – the room was quite large with a full double bed, love seat and good, small bathroom with shower. Wow!

The next eight-days were thoroughly relaxing in every sense of the word. Being in the travel planning/execution business, I have realized over the last couple years that when I really want to relax, nothing does it better for me than not making decisions or plans. Royal Caribbean totally took care of that department. Wake when you want, eat incredible food literally anytime you want, gaze at amazing scenery from the outside deck chairs or one of the many indoor lounges with huge windows, play pool, BINGO, partake in an art auction, work out in the gym, run outside on the track, try your luck at the casino, take your kids to the Kids Camp and on and on it goes.

Whether we were eating breakfast in the Windjammer Restaurant, snacks in a café or a multi-course, top-drawer, nightly dinner in Reflections, plates were cleared, glasses never empty, second and thirds accommodated (I made a point of eating some beef everyday), crumbs scraped from the table and on it went. There was simply nothing missed. Waiters sang, danced and made sure every meal was not only delicious but an event.

Entertainment was a really neat part of the experience. Every night in the Tropical Theater there was a pre or post-dinner show. Sometimes it was comedy, other times song/dance, magicians, gymnastics, but every night it was something entertaining and a fun way to start the evening. The theatre had a full sound and light system and was world class. Drinks were on offer at any moment too – something I enjoyed – and they had Guinness!

In short, everything on the ship happened like magic and clockwork. I left my room, came back and it was all clean, regardless of time of day or night, with a neat towel animal on the bed. Sit down around the pool and an attendant handed me a towel and took my wet one. Finish a cup of coffee and it’s removed and a new one offered.

Many meals later (too many to mention here), one game of The Weakest Link one evening (which I won), a few sessions in the hot tub, a couple onshore beer in Alaska, a couple workouts and a paperback later and suddenly it was Day 8. How do you get 2,400 people off a boat smoothly? There was a system for this too. On Night 7 everyone received tags for their bags which are color/number coded which you place on your bags and leave outside your room. These tags also tell you the room on the ship to wait to disembark and at what time. Sure enough the system was flawless with us disembarking early, every cruise member said “Goodbye” on the way out, we went through Canadian Customs and there were our bags waiting at the end. Taxis were waiting and we were off.

So, should you or should you not consider a cruise? It’s not for everyone, but is an awesome experience if it’s what you need. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

A glacier at Tracy Arm

Do Go:
•    If you want don’t want to move hotels.
•    If you want to totally relax.
•    If you want to eat as much or as little as you like when you want (they have room service which is free) anytime of day or night.
•    If the purpose of the trip is not to meet locals and experience authentic area experiences.
•    If you like to wake up anytime, roll with it and partake in fun/silly games/events/shows.
•    If you’re traveling with a diverse group and want to be sure there’s something for everyone.
•    If you’d like to see some areas/coastline that you wouldn’t see by car (Alaska being a prime example).

Don’t Go:
•    If you want to get out and explore.
•    If you don’t want to stay put, slow down, and really unwind.
•    If you don’t want to be around other travelers.
•    If you can’t stop yourself from eating (the food on offer is tasty and abundant).
•    If you want to be out and about all the time.

A cruise certainly isn’t for everyone but the service experience Royal Caribbean provided was world-class. From start to finish every detail had been taken care and every need anticipated. The training program must be extensive and the entire crew on the Serenade of the seas gets a huge hats-off from me. I like to think SA offers some of the best service on the planet but there are a few things I learned from this cruise that will be incorporated into the SA experience.

See some photos from my Alaska cruise.

by Scott Coates

‘Bamee Moo Daeng’, a staple dish in Thailand, China and other parts of Asia is simple, available around the clock and delicious.

A 'haeng' bowl of noodles

Tonight I was feeling hungry before heading out for a run and walked to the corner to buy an order the aforementioned dish to give me some energy. While enjoying my food at my desk it occurred to me that I’ve been eating this simple, yet very tasty meal for almost 10 years – the entire time I’ve worked with Smiling Albino. And yet I’ve never become bored of it. In fact it’s one of my favorite dishes. I like it in the morning, for lunch and dinner too.
Here’s what we’re talking about:

• The noodles are yellow in color and made of egg, rather than rice noodles which most soups in Asia are made from.
  Pieces of kale, both leaves and stalk, are added with some green onion.
• Thinly cut red pork, which has been slow cooked with a secret barbeque sauce of sorts, is laid on top of the dish. This is the really magic part and each shop/vendor will have their own recipe (guarded closely).
• The broth is made from pork stock, is mild and roughly the equivalent of chicken noodle soup broth in the west. The broth also has some pepper in it and small pieces of pork rind. Broth is optional and people enjoy it ‘nam’ (with broth) or ‘haeng’ (no broth).
• Some shops also sell dumplings (‘kiew’ or wantons) stuffed with shrimp or pork.
• Small pieces of crab meat (‘bpoo‘) are also a semi-common add-on option.
• The diner adds dry hot chilies, vinegar with peppers, fish sauce and sugar to bring out flavor and add bitterness/sweetness/spiciness. Asians and especially Thais love a collision of flavors – bitter/spicy, sour/salty, etc.
• You can enjoy you food at the shop/roadside stand or get it in a plastic bag to go (as I did tonight).

Here’s how I like my Bamee Moo Daeng:

• Lots of nice, lean pork
• Shrimp dumplings if available (four)
• Add some dry chilies and a good helping of vinegar
• If eating before running eat with no broth, otherwise always broth

Just like any great food the taste varies greatly from restaurant to restaurant (or streetside stand) and I defiantly have my favorites. Begin the countdown!:

#3: No Name, Ramkamhang Road, Soi 18, Bangkok
Enter the street about 20m and the mobile stand is on your left. The broth is tasty, pork well-cured and portions great. No dumplings but 30THB ($0.90US) for a bowl is sure to fill your stomach.

#2: No Name, Ramkamhang Road, Soi 24, Mooban Preecha, Bangkok (opposite 7-11)
Without a doubt one of the finest versions out there. Very tasty sauce on the pork, great broth and delicious shrimp dumplings. A bowl with all the fixings is 40THB ($1.20US).

#1: Nakhom Phathom, Phahonyothin Road, Chiang Rai (near the Night Bazaar)
This is THE shop. In business for more than 15 years, everyone in town and Thai visitors know if you want the best this is where you come. Open from 06:00 – 14:00 (at the latest) the owners are a very nice Thai-Chinese family with the leanest, most tender, tasty red pork in the country – period. The broth is exemplary and I NEVER get bored eating here. I eat here every morning for breakfast when I’m in town and sometimes for lunch too. A regular bowl is 30THB ($0.90US) and a large bowl 50THB ($1.60US). Have an iced coffee with your noodles.

I’m getting hungry – time for some more noodles.

Khun Jib & Khun Dow Saweepatts moved to Chiang Khong from Bangkok in 1998 in search of a quieter life. They leased a prime piece of land along the banks of the Mekong River in Chiang Rai province and crafted the area’s best guesthouse with their hands and great ideas. Bamboo Riverside Guesthouse was not only a great guesthouse, but a top spot for food. They made wonderful Thai food and after a woman from Mexico stayed with them, they started making some Mexican food. Dish-by-dish the menu grew to the point they decided to forgo serving Thai food and focus primarily on Mexican. The restaurant-end of their business flourished with travelers dropping-in for a taste of something different while traveling Thailand.
Smiling Albino co-founders Dan and Scott first went to Chiang Khong in November 1999 after only two months in the kingdom. We stayed at Bamboo on the recommendation of a friend and were not disappointed.
We soon became fast friends with Khun Jib, one of Thailand’s most colorful ‘characters’. Over the years we’ve been on road trips with him, gotten to know his wife Dow well, become friends with their two daughters Mim and Mod and spent countless hours on their balcony, overlooking the Mekong River, sipping Thai beer while chatting about countless topics and solving the world’s problems.
After eight years of taking our guests to Bamboo, relaxing with the owners on our own time and considering it a second home, it was with great sadness I made a visit in June 2008 to see it being dismantled. The Saweepatts lease was coming to an end and they were well-tired of running a guesthouse. They have a house under renovation, a successful bakery and are going to concentrate solely on food in fall 2008.
Khun Jib, Khun Dow, their daughter Mim and myself sat on the balcony and shared a bottle of whiskey together as decorations were no longer on the walls, the buildings were half-dismantled and stories of years gone by were told. While sad, I’m happy for Khun Jib and Khun Dow’s success and their decision to move on. I’ll cherish my memories of countless hours on their balcony and hope their new business has a great place to chillout and enjoy.
Farewell Bamboo Riverside Guesthouse!