Thai Puppet Theatre
by Daniel Fraser
Question: Are attractions which are designed for tourist consumption necessary evil? Often they can be, and when it comes to tourist attractions in Asia they usually are. Think monkey dancing shows and elephants playing harmonica. However, it certainly isn’t fair to lump all tourist attractions and cultural performances as cliché and lacking in higher value merely because it was designed as a money-making entity targeting tourists.
Last week a group from our office went to see Bangkok’s newest puppet theatre, Aksara. Admittedly I was skeptical going in. The new Aksara theatre is in a glitzy new pavilion which is part of the King Power duty free group (generally, but not always, high-priced knick-knacks aimed at tourists). For years the Joe Louis puppet troupe (currently at Suan Luum Night Bazaar) has been getting good reviews – and for good reason. The story of Joe Louis (aka Sakorn Yangkhieosot) is a great tale of a family’s quest to revive the ancient and dying art of Thai puppetry. The fact that Thai puppetry exists to this day is a testament to Joe Louis and his children. So, how could a flashy new theatre do justice to this revered ancient art form? The Aksara experience however turned out to be a pleasant surprise and well worth the trip.
For starters, the theatre is a beautiful multi-million dollar construction. State of the art sound and acoustics, with comfortable seating and the walls and lobby adorned with art work, wall-mount wood carvings, murals, etc. Despite the theatre’s temperature hovering at roughly 15 degrees, which often translates to luxury in some parts of Asia, the performance is outstanding.
Well choreographed performances featuring between two and fifty puppeteers covering a range of Thai themes from episodes from the Ramakien, forlorn love stories from rural villages, a comical and brilliantly presented cock-fighting series, as well as a hilarious Isaan village dance to round things out in a world-class presentation. Much more impressive than I expected and in just under 90-minutes you are taken through a theatrical and enjoyable adventure through Thailand.
Some of the higher meaning behind the scenes of the Ramakien, such as the significance of the characters Hanuman and Thosakan may be lost on those not familiar with the story. Likewise, there was a short performance of a Japanese umbrella dance, which was visually impressive, but its purpose at this theatre was lost on all of the audience except for, well, the Japanese.
The puppeteers themselves are to be commended. Thousands of hours have clearly gone into creating life-like, animated gestures and choreography on the part of the puppets. The troupe also does a good job of bringing puppets out into the audience to ham it up with viewers. While cute, I couldn’t decide if this added to the experience or detracted from the artistic integrity of the performance. Finally, the puppets make a final appearance for photo-opp’s with guests in the lobby after the show. This seemed more appropriate in my opinion.
Conclusion: All of the elements work together for a very worthwhile experience and fun montage of several themes relevant to Thailand. If you have a free evening and want a light and entertaining dose of culture, this is a good experience for Thais and westerners alike.
Suggestion: eat first. There is a giant, well-stocked, and over-priced Thai-International buffet next to the theatre. Plus shopping options, of course.
The “Aksara Small Puppeteer Troupe” performs special shows at the Aksara Theater on 3rd floor of the King Power Complex, Soi Rangnam, from Tuesday – Friday at 19.00 hrs., and on Saturdays – Sundays at 14.00 and 19.00 hrs. Programs change throughout the year. Tickets start at 300B.
