by Scott Coates

When Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) officially opened on September 28, 2006, it replaced Don Muang as Bangkok’s main airport. Built in 1914, Don Muang was one of the world’s oldest operating airports, having commenced commercial service in 1924 with the arrival of a KLM flight. Suvarnabhumi promised not only a modern terminal but a high-speed train to whisk passengers to and from the city. Like many large-scale projects the rail link suffered setbacks almost from the start, but is now officially almost ready to go.

Phayathai Station

Construction of Suvarnabhumi Airport Link (SARL) started in July 2005 and test runs began in October 2009 with the latest round (July 2010) being open to the public. Smiling Albino was itching to try it out and took a ride on July 14.

Owned and operated by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT), the 28km, above-ground line has eight stations, including the terminus stop at BKK, one at Phayathai which will connect to the city’s Skytrain system and Makkasan, a central station where travelers will be able to check-in for flights and drop their bags before leaving the city. We boarded at Phayathai and were immediately impressed with the size of the station. The roof is long and domed, likely with an eye to its popularity growing in the future. The train, manufactured by Siemens rolled up and we hopped on.

Inside the train

The inside of the carriage looks much like those used on the Skytrain and Bangkok’s Underground system (also manufactured by Siemens), but with a bit of room for placing suitcases. Bit is the key word. On each car there is a space about 1m wide and ½ a meter deep, which seems like much less storage space than will be required by those using an airport train. Another missing item is the total absence of overhead storage of any kind. There’s lots of space above the seats, most travelers will likely have carry-on bags, but there’s no racks to place anything. I’m guessing they’re keeping the area open for advertising, a disappointment.

The speed of the train was impressive, seeing us cover the entire journey with stops at all stations in less than 30 minutes (Commuter Train). There will also be Express Trains which go directly to the city and take just 15 minutes, making the journey quick and manageable. With a top speed of 160km/hr (I don’t think we got near that on our trip) it’s pretty neat gazing down at old houses in the eastern end of the city as they whiz by and minutes later being amongst Bangkok’s modern skyscrapers – a wild contrast.

Seamlessness will be the telling tale of SARL and we’ll be revisiting the train once full passenger service commences to see how travelers manage moving bags on and off the trains, connect to Skytrain and Underground stations and check-in at Makkasan Station. Escalators in the stations are not oversized,

SARL route map

leaving us wondering if it will be tough to get on them, huge hard-shell suitcase in hand. Another question is the process of getting in/out of taxis at the Makkasan Station and the time required for an inner city journey to one’s hotel – the slowest part of any taxi ride in Bangkok.

Fares and operating times have yet to be announced but considering the great deal on Bangkok’s taxi fares we’re thinking train fares should be very reasonable. Opening dates for SARL have been announced, rescinded, and revised several times over the last year but it seems things will be fully functional starting August 23, coincidentally my birthday. I know what I’m doing this year!

Watch a video of our ride.

See some photos from our first trip.

by Scott Coates

In early June I was at a joint American Chamber of Commerce in Thailand – Thai Canadian Chamber of Commerce luncheon and heard an announcement for a Chili Contest as part of the American Independence Day Celebrations to be held on July 3, 2010 in Bangkok. Having made chili a few times, loving a bowl – a rarity when you live in Bangkok – Smiling Albino (SA) Board Member Derek Van Pelt mentioned that a mutual friend had a great recipe for chili and

Some friends at the SA Chili Booth

we should enter the contest. Always up for something fun and the chance to eat chili we signed-up, enlisted the assistance of our friend Phil, a Canadian resident in Bangkok, and Friday, July 2 met at his house to create a winning chili.

Early in the evening someone in the kitchen asked, “What does chili have to do with travel?” and chuckled. Everyone had a laugh, we talked about how funny it would be to beat all the major restaurants that would be in the contest, and continued designing our batch of bliss.

At the event site on July 3 while setting up our booth the owner of one of the city’s leading Mexican restaurants was setting up next to us. After introductions he asked about our restaurant wondering where SA was. After explaining that SA is a travel company and sharing a bit about what we do, it was obvious he was a bit perplexed. Throughout the afternoon as guests sampled our chili it was amazing how many people were surprised that a travel company was in a chili contest. A quick look around at the other booths revealed we were in fact the only non-restaurant in the contest of more than a dozen entrants. One feisty eater who’d clearly had a few too many bowls smartly remarked, “What does a travel company know about chili!” A lot it turns out as he returned shortly thereafter to give us his bean (each taster had one bean to vote for their favorite chili).

Serving it up

With our entire seven liters of chili consumed, the judges announced the winners of the Great American Chili Cook-off and we were delighted to win People’s Choice for Best Chili, no doubt surprising some of the other competitors. So, how did we win? We followed the judging criteria to a tee, nailing all five: Aroma (chili should smell good), Consistency (chili should be a good balance of meat and gravy – the meat should be tender, but not mushy), Color (chili should look good and the color should range from reddish to reddish brown), Taste (chili should taste good) and Aftertaste (chili should leave a pleasant taste after swallowing). Since the competition we’ve talked a fair bit about what a travel company knows about making chili and it turns out there are lots of similarities.

When designing a great trip there must be good aroma all the way through. Asia is one of the world’s most colorful and fragrant regions to travel. From flower markets to food vendors concocting culinary delights and world-class spas emanating sweet-smelling oils, great aromas abound and exposing our guests to them is key.

While good surprises are something we love to sprinkle liberally throughout our adventures, consistency is important. While exploring the unknown it’s vital for guests to feel comfortable and live up to the high expectations we’ve set for ourselves. This especially holds true when visitors return for multiple trips in the many countries travel. It’s all about consistency.

Color: markets, hilltribe communities in traditional costume, glittering temples, tuk-tuks, lush rice paddies, silky-soft beaches, azure seas and neon lights combine to form the colorful backdrop of all our adventures.

Food is a highlight of any trip to Asia and SA has always worked hard to introduce visitors to as many tasty dishes during their trip as possible. From fine dining to street-side fare and everything in between, exposing guests to the taste of the region is a highlight of prime importance.

A journey of a lifetime consists of much more than just the travel days

Accepting the People's Choice Award

themselves. Creating experiences that visitors remember for the rest of their lives is the goal. The joy of recalling a local’s smile as you rode by on a bicycle or watched the sunset from your mountain villa while sipping sparkling wine is an element we consider sacred. Creating a travel aftertaste so to speak is as important as the adventure itself.

With our trophy ladle for People’s Choice for Best Chili mounted on our office wall and thinking about all those people who didn’t understand what chili and travel had in common, I now think it’s rather obvious. We’re ready to make a batch for you. Check-out our Adventures and let us know when you’re hungry.

Over the past year or so I’ve been invited by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) to emcee media events such as this year’s Ultimate Thailand Explorer’s Challenge. In addition, I’ve also had the good fortune to be named a tourism ambassador for such events as the revitalization of tourism following the 2005 tsunami, or more recently following Bangkok’s political demonstrations as an internet-television host for interviews about tourism in Thailand.

Another occasion arose to get in the game of revitalizing Thailand’s tourism image this past weekend during the “Smile@Ratchaprasong” Festival coordinated by the TAT and the Ratchaprasong Business Community. The Ratchaprasong area of course is where the Red Shirt demonstrations took place this past spring (perhaps you heard about it?), which left a temporary sour note in one of Bangkok’s ordinarily more vibrant neighbourhoods. The “Smile@Ratchaprasong” Festival sought to bring people back by way of a town fair– type atmosphere: live music concerts, games, competitions, crafts workshops, photo contests, retail space, moms & tots, etc. In addition, the TAT invited a wide range of media to the event, from traditional TV, newspaper and magazines, to the active social media influencers around town who were vital in reporting on-the-scene truths during and after the demonstrations this past spring. So, in an inspiring step forward, the TAT sought to recognize the importance of this new media vehicle and build bridges into this community. I was to host them on the first morning of the festival, followed by an informal lunch with the Governor of the TAT, Suraphon Svetsaranee, as well as Deputy Governor Prakit Piriyakiet, Executive Director Sugree Sithivanich, and Director of Communications, Thapanee Kiatpaiboon.

Some of our guests on the outing included local social media notables Michael, Richard, John, Greg, Jack, Anthony, Trevor, and more.

Social media celebrities unite!

So, how do you impress a group of seasoned locals and keep them interested for a half-day of visiting the very neighbourhood where many of them live, work and play regularly anyway? Enter Smiling Albino!

As an enhancement to the festival, Smiling Albino was asked to provide some entertainment and information to this group of bloggers, tweeters, online travel gurus and iWizards. So, rather than bludgeoning them with miles and miles of retail and music, we did what we have always thought travel should be about anyway: get involved with the locals.

Using the Ratchaprasong neighbourhood as our canvass, we drafted up a simple walking adventure, mixed with a private boat trip and a few sneak-a-peaks into local villages, shops, homes, boat piers and focused on the life and times of the local people who live, work, and pray in Ratchaprasong. In a two-hour jaunt we tasted the local food, heard the stories of the local shopkeepers, cooks, villagers, and spoke to boat drivers and pier custodians about life before and after the demonstrations. Some of us even tried our hand at making the curious kanom tokyo snacks. Nothing fancy – just an opportunity to get in touch with the community, and make the locals the stars for a day. The concept was “live, eat, work and pray in Ratchaprasong”

Here’s a quick breakdown of the trip:

Pray 1 – start at Erawan Shrine – the venerable spirit keystone of the entire neighbourhood. Flanked in untold mystery and curious history, the open-air goodness emanating from this corner of Ratchaprasong is a must for any walking experience in the neighbourhood.

Eat 2 – from here it was time to walk along Ratchaprasong Ave across from the recovering Central World Complex, currently getting a new make-over to grace Bangkok’s retail block once again. Here we spoke with Khun Tan, the lady who has run a small clothing shop (read: clothes hanging on a pole beside a tree along the roadside) for many years. Over the past few months her revenues have been cut in thirds, and she is improvising with a new Thai sweets stand selling kanom tokyo.

Greg steps into to street-hawker shoes and makes kanom tokyo

Greg kindly showed us how it was done and may have even sold some of his innovations to the passers by. This is a great strip of Bangkok to sample all kinds of street food, from kanom krock (the ping pong ball-looking coconut snack), to moo satay (pork skewers that taste better than they look) beyond the canal bridge, to Isaan-cum-urban dweller favourites, som tam and gai yang (papaya salad and grilled chicken).

Live 3 – Tao Phu Village

From here cut across the street into what looks like a construction site across from the canal bridge over the Saen Seab Canal. Beyond this cement factory is a narrow series of streets that pass through the Tao Phu Village (cement mixer village in Thai, named after the giant factory that dwarfs its sensibilities to the north). This oddly peaceful pocket of Ratchaprasong was a hotbed of activity during protests last spring, and the locals were happy to share their stories and demonstrate that they were ready to step into a fresh new chapter. A few hundred families make up this community, sequestered between the factory, Central World, and the edge of the Centara Complex to the west. Just another one of those places you’d never knew existed in this amazing city…

Tao Phu Village - stuck between a cement mixer and mega-mall

Work 4 – from Tao Phu Village cross back to the boat bridge and meet Mr Lert, the long-time manager of the boat station which serves as a main hub for what is Thailand’s longest canal, Khlong Saen Saeb. Mr Lert runs 60 boats up and down the canals from Bangkapi all the way to the Phan Fah Bridge in Banglampu, near Democracy Monument and Khao San Road. On our SA mini-adventure we hired a private boat to take our guests down the canal to famous Hua Chang Bridge station at Siam Square and the Bangkok Art & Culture Center. It was nice to see the boat business back at full throttle again, and Mr Lert kindly gave a couple of quick interviews before returning to his liquid thoroughfare office.

SA's Bank aboard a canal water taxi towards Siam Square

Live 5 – at the Hua Chang Boat Stop, one exits the boat stand into a small but lovingly cared for garden area run by Khun Rampui. She is the jovial lady who runs the red fridge with cool drinks and snacks for boat passengers. She graciously invited us into her wooden two-story house which precariously lurches out over the water. She has been there for many years and in exchange for rights to live and work in the space, she is also the custodian of the boat pier, hence the greenery and generally nice atmosphere.

Work (and shop) 6 – from here we walked along Rama I Road and checked out work on the rebuilding of retail space around the old Siam Theater. Many of the tenants who lost their space after the spring fires have set up a mini strip mall of canvassed cubicles on Siam Square Soi 4, while work is done to rebuild more formal retail space beside the theater. Life is marching on – and the resiliency of Thais and the smiles on their faces was a positive reminder that indeed The Land of Smiles is back in business! Travel here now!

Pray 7 – We ended the walking trip in an affirming manner, giving alms to monks at the Pathum Wararam Temple. This deep garden sanctuary is cocooned between Siam Paragon and Centara Grand/Central World complexes.

Wat Pathum Wararam's garden walking paths

It was also a safe haven for the fleeing protesters during the sweeping up operations which ended the demonstrations last spring. We thought it was a fitting ending to end this mini adventure on a high spiritual note, and a chance for a nice stroll through the temple gardens, and to use one of the nicer bathrooms in the neighbourhood.

From here along the skywalk all the way to the Grand Hyatt Erawan for a lunch with the TAT Governor and friends to discuss tourism initiatives and how to bridge ties into the social media world. All up – a good morning.

Long table discussion with TAT Governor Suraphon Svetsaranee

There was some positive discussion during our luncheon about how the social media community can get involved in the revitalizing of Thailand’s tourism industry, and more importantly how the TAT can catch the slip string of this momentum and make positive inroads into this exciting medium. Great work from Kae, Bank and Scott in the SA Office to get this mini-adventure off the ground last week, and special thanks to Bank for being a great host and trip leader for our media guests.

Great to have you all on board guys and thanks for the extra photo support, John!

by Scott Coates

When I moved to Bangkok in 1999 to develop Smiling Albino I was an avid mountain biker having taken up the sport about two years previously in Calgary, AB. It’s easy to get into the forest there, hit dirt trails and get away from people very quickly. Taking up residence in bustling Bangkok, a city of 10 million, mostly covered in concrete, presented immediate challenges to

John crossing a canal in Bangkapi district

continue riding. Streets are crammed with traffic, there’s hardly any open space and concrete dominates. I was initially worried and even a bit sad to realize my days riding out the back door and shortly after that into the forest and on dirt were likely behind me. But after a month or so of exploring my area in the eastern part of the city I found new opportunities. While not the same type of mountain biking, what I discovered was equally challenging, extremely interesting for a foreign resident and very close to my apartment.

Khlongs (canals) once dominated all areas of Bangkok, many of which have been built over to create roads in modern times, but if you get out of the downtown core, into suburban areas like Bangkapi where I live, there’s still a lot of them. These canals not only serve as waterways for transport and fishing, but people also live along their banks in mostly ramshackle homes. Residents tend to be quite poor, canals dirty, but there are often concrete walkways built above and alongside canals for transport. Typically about 1m in width and about 2m above the water, they’re connected by funky wooden footbridges, sharp turns, low-lying roofs and all sorts of other obstacles to be negotiated. I was dazzled from my first visit. Over the years I got out as much as I could, was constantly on the hunt for new pathways and creating longer and more interesting rides. While I’m very happy to see Smiling Albino growing and spreading its trunk, the last few years have seen me have less and less time for riding, something I hope will change. In June 2010 a fellow Canadian resident, Greg, invited a few friends out for a bike ride through his end of the city, along the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok’s main waterway and alleyways near Yaowarat (Chinatown).

Sunday riders in front of Bangkok's old Customs House

On a Sunday morning eight of us met along Sukhumvit Road, one of the the city’s main thoroughfares and set out with the goal of taking as many quite roads, small alleys and passageways as possible to Khao Sarn Road, a haven for backpackers. At times we had to take major roads for a few kilometers, but were mostly able to weave together a quiet, interesting route from Greg’s years of riding around his stomping ground. Without realizing it I was entranced, taken back to that first year of living in Bangkok and riding canals in my end of the city. Life is different in these lanes. The sounds of a teeming city non-existent, smiles friendlier, goings on different and life of Bangkok past much easier to imagine. After more than 10 years living and exploring, I remembered why I love this city so much. There are few metropolises where turning a corner can change things so much. Wooden houses suddenly dominate, European-style buildings appear, people are working with their hands rather than machines and for all intensive purposes we were seeing another city entirely. A city you must bike or walk to get inside, through, up, over and into.

In a day and age where cars, subways and modern transport dominate, and certainly have a very useful purpose, the ride reaffirmed some of my personal beliefs and Smiling Albino’s founding principals. To really see and appreciate an area, you must dive in head first. Rely on your feet and bikes to get into its internal organs and by doing so, see a side to a city and country that few locals and even fewer visitors ever experience. Adventures like our Bangkok Headlights and Yaowarat have always relied on self-propelled

Scott & Erika crossing the Rama VIII Bridge

exploration and I remembered why – it’s the only way to see the spots we take our guests. You simply can’t get in small passageways in a car, train or into the ancient heart of Bangkok any other way.

In a day and age of bigger, faster and more comfortable, it’s important to remember that traveling is about exploring and experiencing other cultures, not rushing. New isn’t always better and in many respects new is making the world a blander more uniform place. The next time you travel I encourage you to get out of the car, get out of the train, walk down a quite street, go in the dark alley and have a look. On second thought, better to take a Smiling Albino adventure and let us share some of our favorite secret corners with you in safety and style. There are all kinds of untold stories and sites out there waiting to be discovered.

by Scott Coates

When traveling almost everyone stays in a hotel for most of their trip abroad. International hotel brands provide supreme comfort, all the services you could want but often lack local character. Small boutique hotels can be very neat and quirky but sometimes lack the quality and upkeep that one still expects from a hotel and the prices that go along with them. Then there’s the homestay where you bunk down with a local family, usually meaning facilities are very limited and perhaps not comfortable

Smiling Albino adventurers enjoying a break in the Newa Chen courtyard

enough for the average traveler. Enter something different and in between all of these – Newa Chen.

While developing the Nepal Trek & Trail adventure back in 2007, our Nepal Team leader Mads suggested we spend a couple nights in the old capital of Patan and really explore it. A former capital of the country, located in the Kathmandu Valley, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site where every street, alley, corner and building serves as a living museum. Patan was a center where artisans flourished, specializing in word work, smelting, bronze work and along with it, they spent a good deal of time creating intricate and beautiful homes.

Newa Chen is perhaps one of Patan’s best preserved traditional homes. Owned by the Shrestha family, it’s constructed of brick and timber in traditional Malla style, a period where great importance was placed on art and culture. With modern times many of Patan’s traditional homes and those in the greater Kathmandu Valley for that matter have and are being torn down in favor of modern concrete structures. If you’ve been around intricate wood carvings and wooden homes most of your life it seems concrete seems like progress.

An intricate window frame

With its heritage literally being torn down around them, the Patan Tourism Development Organization along with UNESCO set out to protect and promote historical homes and buildings before it was too late. Many Patan homes are in disrepair due to the passing of time, lack of funds to fix them and Kathmandu also lies on an earthquake fault and is prone to occasional tremors, causing damage to poorly built structures. Often tearing down old homes, subdividing the land and building modern concrete ones is a way to earn money. The two organizations approached local families with what they deemed to be heritage homes and proposed a plan: use a low interest loan to restore your home, then develop a way to showcase it to visitors. Rather than being a financial drain on a family, sometimes crumbling structures like Newa Chen were not only refurbished and preserved but quickly became a significant source of family income.

Opened in 1996 after a thorough restoration, Newa Chen welcomes visitors to stay in one of their eight guest rooms. Short doorways force one to bend over or bow when entering, making you pay respect to the home as you enter. Residents share communal spaces, courtyards, dining areas, an attic

Waving from their room

which serves as a lounge and you see family members come and go throughout the day. Gorgeous brickwork, intricate wooden window frames and doors, Patan art and traditional furnishings don’t just share the area’s feel but submerge you right into everyday life. Steep wooden staircases (ladders really) take you through Newa Chen’s three floors which surround the central courtyard which all rooms look out onto. While great attention and effort is put into the preserving the past, they’ve thoughtfully installed such modern amenities as sit down toilets and nice hot showers, ensuring you’ll want to come home at the end of a day exploring.

Newa Chen is one of the most interesting and enjoyable places I’ve ever stayed. I’ve brought my parents there for the experience and we’re thrilled to have it as part of our special Jazzmandu Grand Slam adventure starting on October 28, 2010. In a world cluttered with boring, overpriced, and soulless hotels, Newa Chen is successfully blazing new trails and setting a new standard.

The Sofitel Metropole Hanoi is often mentioned in the same sentence as the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok or Raffles Singapore.

Vintage fleet at a vintage location

The Metropole, built in 1901, is Vietnam’s grand dame of hotels whose famous white neo-classical facade has become one of Hanoi’s primary landmarks.

I have visited and inspected the hotel on many occasions, and Smiling Albino recently hosted European celebrity media for a series of events at the hotel in early 2010. During May 2010 I had an opportunity to experience the fullness of the hotel as an in-house guest, and The Metropole delivers on multiple levels.

Originally built by two French investors at the turn of the 20th Century, The Metropole has been under the management of Accor’s luxury arm, Sofitel, for several years. The original building, known as the Old Wing or Classical Wing, has been lovingly restored and features 3 room categories:

Old Wing Grand Luxury

Luxury Room (32sqm), Grand Luxury Room (37sqm), and The Legendary Suite (70sqm). These rooms are for the romantics, the nostalgia fans, those wishing to celebrate the colonial grandeur of Indochina. Period artwork and photographs line the walls, and the Old Wing gives the air of a luxury French mansion for heads of state, authors, and dignitaries.

The New Wing is a 7-story addition on the opposite side of the pool and garden area. Completed in 2007, it features stylish, neoclassical rooms with brilliant colour and lighting schemes. The New Wing still carries the air of colonial French influence, with internal shutter windows and replica claw foot bathtubs and wide hallways. The rooms feature wood and carpeted floors with fresh, tropical colours, pink, scarlet, mauve. Overall the New Wing rooms feel slightly larger and brighter than their vintage sisters in the Old Wing. Located on the side of the hotel closest to Hanoi’s gorgeous Opera House, the New Wing is also referred to as the “Opera Wing”. New Wing Rooms feature four categories: Premium Rooms (32sqm), Grand Premium Rooms (48sqm), Prestige Suites (64sqm), and the hotel’s top room, the Grand Prestige Suite (176swm).

Opera Wing Grand Premium Room

My favourite in this category is the Prestige Suite, which features fresh colours and a creative room layout, a half-wall separating the bathroom and lounging area, and a large bedroom with contemporary furniture featuring a perfect blend of colonial and Vietnamese styles.

Old Wing vs New Wing

This a “Coke vs Pepsi” debate that doesn’t have a definitive answer, and ultimately comes down to taste. The “Classic Wing vs Opera Wing” debate has gone on in the Smiling Albino office as much as the “Mandarin Oriental Bangkok vs Peninsula Bangkok” debate has. The Metropole’s Director of Rooms commented in fun that, “…the Old Wing is for lovers, the New Wing for artists…”.

Old Wing (also known as Historical or Classical Wing) rooms are located on the original three-story building of the hotel. They feature high ceilings, French window shutters, dark wood and period lamp shades, desks and accessories. There is more of a museum-like atmosphere, with a beautiful original wood staircase, open lobby with oil paintings, and a vintage telephone-booth sized elevator. The New Wing is a dramatic contrast as you exit the lift onto the floors with fashionable designer wallpaper and brilliantly striped carpets and furniture. There is a flair of Parisian hipness in this part of the hotel, and the New Wing rooms are a little more cutting edge, taking advantage of natural light and modern design innovations. The Old Wing rooms are more nostalgic, elegant, and subtle. Neither lacks luxury or class. The beds, bathroom fixtures, electronics are top drawer and the fines level of luxury.

Recommending which room is right for you and for your trip is serious business.

Smiling Albino recommends room types with an eye to our guest’s overall program, taking into account where else they are staying in Vietnam. For example, if guests are also going to Dalat and staying at the palatial Sofitel Dalat Palace , then in Hanoi we’d recommend New Wing rooms at The Metropole as the Old Wing rooms would too closely resemble the vintage colonial feel of the Dalat Palace. Same applies for La Residence in Hue, or Majestic Hotel in Saigon. Both offer an early 20^th Century classical French-style grand hotel. However, if staying at Pilgrimage Village in Hue, which is a modern luxury reincarnation of a traditional Vietnamese village, and staying contemporary in Saigon, then perhaps the Old Wing Rooms at Metropole Hanoi provide the colonial checkmark for the full deck Vietnam hotel experience.

As a general rule:

New Wing:

“Dish me up some designer-cool with a subtle stroke of colonial class. We thought Mandarin Oriental Bangkok was okay, but we’d prefer The Peninsula Bangkok next time around.”

Old Wing

“Forget the fancy contemporary flair as we can do that anywhere, we want to step back into the grandeur of colonial Indochina. Besides, we loved Mandarin Oriental Bangkok and can’t get enough of it.”

Last point, I did notice the New Wing rooms had a slightly younger crowd, there were designer jeans and fancy shoes. The Old Wing crowd featured a bit of everything, but generally a little older, fewer iPhones.

Swimming Pool with a view to the Opera Wing

The pool, spa, fitness room, restaurants are of course in a league of their own in Hanoi. Even if not staying at the hotel, some afternoon drinks in the Bamboo Bar around the pool is a must, as is Le Beaulieu for a quick peak and absolutely Angelina’s Bar for multiple cocktails and Hanoi high society intrigue. This is a local hot spot for events and business gatherings, and fashion shows, etc.

Smiling Albino was recently selected by Clarins Cosmetics Co. to host a retinue of top French media in Vietnam during their orientation to The Metropole’s Le Spa, which features Clarins’ wellness products. The spa is world class and deserves a visit for a treatment. One of the best in Vietnam.

Meet us for a drink in Le Club!

There are some outstanding top end hotels in Hanoi, not forgetting the sleek new Intercontinental Westlake, and the Sofitel Plaza, as well as old favourites the Hanoi Hilton and Sheraton. In addition to being the most storied hotel in town, Metropole Hanoi is right in the heart of the action just a few blocks from the lake. The Metropole has no equal in Hanoi, which comes at a price, but the overall experience can’t be discounted.

Smiling Albino can arrange rooms and services at Metropole Hanoi at competitive rates, and as part of your customized Smiling Albino adventure in Vietnam.

by Scott Coates

It was late May 2010 and I was standing in the waiting area of the Angkor Hospital for Children looking for a contact I’d long been trying to meet. I’ve never seen so many children be so quiet, especially when they’re sick, it’s hot and they’ve not doubt been waiting a long time to see a doctor. Perhaps even when you’re too young to really know what’s going on, but have little financial means and services available, you implicitly appreciate assistance?

Visitor's Center at AHC

In 2009 a Smiling Albino (SA) guest mentioned after her Classic Cambodia adventure that she had a Canadian friend who works at the AHC. She introduced us via email and over the next year or so we traded messages here and there. When we finally met that hot day in May we’d almost forgotten how we were first introduced. It was well worth the wait. As the Director of Medical Education Center at AHC, David Shoemaker has more than a full plate – he has a full hospital. With 500-600 patients queuing for treatment daily, his team is always stretched to see everyone, but they’ve proudly never turned anyone way.

During his first visit to Cambodia in 1999 for vacation, David never thought he’d still be in Siem Reap (the jumping-off point for exploring the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat) all these years later. Trained as a nurse he enjoyed a number of international professional stints before accidentally settling down and becoming an integral part of the AHC team.

Started in 1996, Friends Without a Border, is the charitable organization that supports and runs AHC. Kenro Izu, a renowned Japanese photographer, saw a child die while waiting for medical care during his first visit to Siem Reap and was forever moved. The child was about the same age as his daughter in Japan and he quickly started the charity upon his return home. In 1999 he opened the original AHC, a facility that has assisted 750,000 children to date. Back in 2000 AHC was serving about four children per day and 1,200 annually. In 2009 they assisted more than 120,000 kids, with more than 500 children visiting daily. How things have grown!

As David walked me through the modern and very impressive AHC facility he explained how there is now a staff of 220, all Khmer with the exception of four foreigners who work in non-medical capacities. From cleaners, laundry attendants, to doctors, nurses and even two Play Therapists, AHC is Cambodia’s premier pediatric center with an annual operating budget of about $2.3 million US.

David in AHC's Emergency Room

To put the hospital’s importance into perspective, after the 1975-79 Khmer Rouge rule, the Vietnamese occupation and war from 1979-1989 and the United Nations Transitional Authority in Cambodia (UNTAC) from 1992-1995, the kingdom was left battered with little to no infrastructure, especially in terms of human talent as the Khmer Rouge executed most of the educated populace during their reign. Today a third of Cambodians live on less than $1US/day, infant mortality is at 69 per 1,000 births, and there are still very few medical facilities across the country that are little more than very simple clinics.

Izu’s project to build a pediatric center now attracts Cambodian doctors and nurses out of university who are looking to get real on-the-job-training and their passion is infectious. In addition to seeing so many children every day, AHC now has 50 free impatient beds, free cooking equipment and food for those staying over who can’t afford a meal and does multiple weekly house calls to patients who can’t afford to come to the hospital. It’s this service that perhaps has the greatest impact.

David explains that by the time most children arrive at AHC their conditions are way worse than they should be. Families often don’t have enough money to get to Siem Reap and the hospital, putting off a visit until it’s almost too late. Keeping people healthy is less expensive than treating them when they’re very ill, the main driver behind AHC’s very successful house calls, and it reduces physical numbers at the hospital.

A patient and mother

After more than 10 years living/working in Asia and being very involved with SA Community programs, I was incredibly moved by the AHC, David’s work and the entire project. It’s quickly grown from a dream into something residents rely on, respect and helps grow the country’s trained talent pool – truly impressive.

If you’re in Siem and looking for something to do; drop-in to AHC’s gorgeous Visitor’s Center, where they have a great video about the project. It’s well worth 30 minutes.
Until you make it to the hospital, see a video about Friends Without a Border and learn about Ways You Can Help.

by Scott Coates

Thonle Sap Lake is one of the world’s great bodies of water as well as one of the least known. As SE Asia’s largest freshwater lake, this UNESCO Biosphere supports people, wildlife and completely reshapes the country as water levels rise and fall.

A floating village on Thonle Sap Lake

Depending on the time of year it changes from 2,700-16,000sq km, supporting 25% of the country’s residents when waters are at their highest and producing 75% of Cambodia’s annual inland fish intake. The lake changes in depth from 1-11m, growing due to an increase in the Mekong River which swells at the start of the rainy season (about mid-June to the end of October) with run-off from snow melt in the Himalayas. The amazing part is that the Mekong itself doesn’t run into Thonle Sap Lake directly. Rather it  joins with the Thonle Sap River about 100km SE at the capital Phnom Penh. The extra push of water down the Mekong forces water in the Thonle Sap River to change direction and move NW filling the lake and greatly changing life for half the year. The reverse happens at the end of the rainy season and beginning of the dry season when Mekong levels drop and the lake pushes its excess load down the Thonle Sap River, to the Mekong and eventually in to Vietnam. During the full moon day in November locals stage a huge celebration along the banks of the Thonle Sap River in Phnom Penh to commemorate the change in river flow which affects all living things for months to come.

Khmer, Cham, Vietnamese and Chinese call the lake home, fishing its more than 200 species and relying on it for sustenance throughout the year.  At its highest the river occupies 7% of the country but 25% of its human population live on and along its banks. When water is high residents are only allowed to  fish to feed themselves and in the dry season to fish for sale as well. In just a few months fish stocks replenish themselves.

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Some residents construct evolving buildings with multiple stories. In the dry season residence is taken on the lower floors and when water levels rise, lower levels are disassembled and life moves upwards. This includes temples and schools that relocate and reshape with the season.

Three major protected biodiversity zones are on the lake, most notably Prek Toal, which a diverse group of water fowl and other creatures calling it home. Truly one of the planet’s great wildlife areas, for bird watchers this is a must.

There are three main floating villages to visit from nearby Siem Reap (jumping off place for the temples of Angkor), the closest Chong Kneas, having the most tourists and all that goes with that, then Prek Toal and Kompong Pleuk, which require a longer journey to/from but certainly are less-visited by outsiders and well worth the effort. Temples at Phnom Kraom provide great views of the lake and are a nice, quiet escape from Angkor’s wonders.

Floating school

If you really want to have a rich Thonle Sap Lake experience then visit with a local pro. The cost will not be more expensive than doing it on your own when you add up all the bits and pieces, you’ll make the most of your time and gain insights about this gem of SE Asia you simply wouldn’t on your own. Most importantly traveling in this manner provides much needed work for locals who love nothing more than sharing their lives while bettering themselves. We of course recommend seeing Thonle Sap Lake and Cambodia with Smiling Albino.

Check out our Cambodia Photo Gallery.

Sources:

National Geographic Traveller Cambodia, by Trevor Ranges

Wikipedia

After much fanfare during the launch phase of Soneva Kiri, Six Senses group’s latest ultra-luxury resort concept in Ko Kood, I had the pleasure of a visit to check things out with a Smiling Albino fine-tooth comb.

Soneva Kiri viewed on approach from Cessna Caravan

Soneva Kiri is an all pool villa, ultra luxury retreat on one of Thailand’s lesser developed islands in the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Kood. There are only 24 suites plus 3 special concept suites, ranging from approximately $1,000US per night up to a multi-room, utopian family beach retreat for 10x that per night. The eco-wonder structures of the rooms themselves are simply gorgeous. Massive tropical hideaways with world-class service and intelligent luxury.

Part of the science in custom designing Smiling Albino adventures is knowing which resort or room is right for which client. Soneva Kiri isn’t right for everyone. Some may find it too fantastical, too luxurious (possibility exists), or too removed from the outside world. But for those keen on an innovative and memorable luxury beach hideaway, Soneva Kiri is in a world of its own.

The Approach – Part of the Soneva Kiri experience is the private flight on their custom Cessna Caravan from Bangkok. The 1hr flight is a low hop over the Gulf of Thailand, with spectacular aerial views of the island groups between Ko Chang and Ko Kood. There are usually 3 flights each way per day, and the schedules are arranged to provide as minimum a wait as possible for guests arriving. Landing on the private airstrip on an island across the bay from the resort is a fun welcome, followed by a drink and greeting from your personal butler. From here you take a short boat trip to the wooden dock at the resort’s entrance and are escorted to your suite.

Soneva Kiri's private landing strip across the bay

A few nice touches to note: 1 – from check-in at the Bangkok airport you don’t see your bags until you arrive in your room – nor do you feel the need to pay attention. And, like all Six Senses Hideway or Soneva resorts, there is a magical arrival-to-room seamlessness. No questions, no queues, no breaks in rhythm. From the private check-in desk at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport, you are smoothly transported into a wonder world of exotic Thai luxury.

At the resort dock you are met by your own personal butler, or “Friday” as they are known, ala Robinson Crusoe. Your Friday takes care of everything from arrival/departure details to packing a breakfast to go for you when you decide on a last-minute snorkeling outing in the morning. Your Friday is at your service and appear to stop at nothing to make sure you gain maximum jollity from this unique resort experience.

The Rooms – From a distance the rooms appear as wood-over-water fantasy structures covered with canvas re-creations of the 1972 Munich Olympic complex. Simply spectacular is just one of hundreds of possible descriptions.

Beach Villa Suite

I stayed in a Beach Villa Suite. With a total size of 403 sqm, you have a feeling of total privacy by way of a wooden footbridge and exterior gate, followed by an enormous outdoor terrace/lounging area, which leads to your private pool villa, and lush garden surroundings with a private footpath down to the beach. The rooms feel like a luxurious private beach house, not a suite in a resort. Your Friday is always a phone call via your complimentary cell phone.

The bedroom is surrounded by floor to ceiling windows, appointed with lovely tropical hardwoods and fine leather furnishings. Cabinets, the TV console and closets are custom-made in the form of vintage steamship trunks, leather-bound with brass buckles and fittings. If you’d rather escape the reality of TV (yes, I did just write that), then simply fold the flat-screen down into its trunk, and it makes a nice end table at the foot of your bed. Every detail in the room was designed within the exoti-sphere concept of the resort.

Great views for breakfast in bed

The dressing room is large indoor/outdoor canopy-topped pavilion (perhaps Olympic Village inspired), attached to the bedroom. Oversize steamship trunks turned on their ends provide double vanity stations with brass and porcelain sinks, wood and leather drawers, stand-up mirrors, hanging racks, etc. There are towels and bottled water stands at various locations in the suite, including tropical lounging beds to rest if the journey between the two of them is too far. The room is enhanced with a Bose sound system with hidden garden speakers, an iPod port, personal wine cellar, free-form pool surrounding your bedroom, multi-level wooden decks, stylish rattan furniture, a designer coffee-machine, and no less than three unique locations to have a shower, ranging from tropical rain shower in your garden to a glass-brick enclosed shower cove, to a poolside shower. These are the kinds of rooms you never need to leave. Large parties could be arranged on your spacious deck, or private dinners or family BBQs. There are chess sets, reading nooks, and inviting lounge chairs nicely placed throughout your super suite. Even a family sharing a suite like this can escape one another and spread out. A family of 3 or 4 could convert the Beach Villa Suite with Library into a two-bedroom Family suite. There is of course the Private Beach Reserve, which is a multiple bedroom tropical resort unto itself.

Out and About at Soneva Kiri – Soneva Kiri is a “buggy resort”, meaning buggies are used to get from dining area to suites, to the tennis courts, spa and gym, etc. I’ve commented before that I’m not a fan of buggy resorts, but unlike most resorts where you need to ring your butler or front desk to call a buggy, at Soneva Kiri you are given the keys to your own golf cart for the duration of your stay.

go easy in the wine bar

This makes getting around a snap, and there’s even a traffic official making sure incoming carts from the Cliff Villas don’t crash into carts leaving the spa/fitness center or wine bar. Your suite has its own parking lot and the convenience of the personal golf cart is a major plus, not to mention adding to the sensation of total personalization and convenience.

Dining – Like Six Senses Yao Noi and other ultra luxury destinations, the dining experiences at Soneva Kiri are world-class. Starting with the pool bar and futuristic tropical wooden breakfast pavilions, or glass-stool cocktail bar, dishes are top notch, the selection both creative and practical, and service outstanding. Many staff members have worked for other Six Senses properties and there is a genuine Thai warmth in the air.

Recently for some Smiling Albino guests we arrange a private sunset cruise with cocktails and canapés, followed by a fully-serviced gourmet beach BBQ on a lovely nearby island for dinner. Other musts include Khun Benz Restaurant. It is interesting to note that the Six Senses group had been wooing Khun Benz, the chef, for many years to join their properties in the Maldives or Middle East. Finally with the opening of the Soneva Kiri property on Ko Kood she agreed to launch the restaurant in her name a little closer to home. Another fun new addition in 2010 is dining in a tree house “pod” under the high canopy of palm trees.

Dine like a gibbon in style

There are also numerous creative spaces to dine, such as a private BBQ at Cinema Paradiso, the outdoor amphitheatre designed from the resort’s fresh water reservoir, or a customized BBQ of your choice in your villa, or a fantastic beach picnic (Crepes Suzette and omelette’s) for a day out snorkeling.

For my first of many great meals, I had a club sandwich – as is my custom – and it came with enough extras and sides to feed a friend. Gourmet cheese, arugula and other aromatic greens, homemade mustard, etc. As a club sandwich connoisseur I was more than impressed, and sufficiently stuffed. From a sommelier’s choice wine list to steamed sea bass and homemade ice cream, a chocolate station and cooled cheese pavilion, the dining opportunities very much live up to their ambitious price tag.

Spa-Gym-Beach – A pavilion up above the fitness center is an inspiring place for a yoga or Pilates session. The gym, while small, is very well-equipped and well-staffed by people that clearly spend time in fitness rooms outside of just work hours. Soneva Kiri is a spa-lover’s paradise. The tranquil setting, stone footpaths, elevated wooden bridges and expert treatments are world-class. Six Senses is a spa and wellness focused company, and the spa at Soneva Kiri incorporates a variety of Indian, Thai, Western and holistic treatments in their signature SLOW-LIFE Spa Journeys.

There are a couple of beach options for guests at Soneva Kiri. The main suites overlook the Bay, which during high tide is a great swimming hole. The beach is cresent-shaped with fine, manicured sand. The rugged cliffs around the edges of Ko Kood have sprinkled the beachfront with scattered rocks, but this is very much still a fantastic beach lover’s cove. The south beach is operational as of spring 2010. This is a groomed beach oasis ideal for sunsets, BBQs, and family beach fun.

The Den beckons

What to do – Of course there are lots of things to do at Soneva Kiri – ranging from a very nice snorkeling trip with picnic by private boat, etc. to jungle trekking, visits to waterfalls, eco-discoveries with the resort’s own pharmacologist (yes). There are the standard resort experiences – if the term applies to Soneva Kiri – such as wine tasting courses, cooking, Thai language and history, etc. The beach of course is a draw – and I went for a couple of great swims. The November-May time frame makes the beach/swimming experience more enjoyable, and while it is certainly doable in the wet season (June-October), it wouldn’t be as idyllic.

For some upcoming guests Smiling Albino has arranged a deluxe helicopter adventure from Soneva Kiri to nearby Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This trip involves a private meal in a remote Angkor temple, an overnight at Amansara in Siem Reap, and a day-and-a-half expertly hosted discovery of Angkor’s epic monuments.

For kids, as if the rooms weren’t enough fun, The Den is a giant bamboo and rattan wonder-cove full of educational discovery. There are astronomy classes at the resort’s observatory, or PADI dive instruction, or private movie nights, or trips to honey and pearl farms. Once you’ve done all that you might just have time to open your book and remember the real reason you came to the resort: to take a vacation.

a swing in an eco villa

Everything appears to work in sync – engineered in part by the resort’s own time zone, set an hour ahead of the outside world. Potential inconveniences could be the flight itself if the proposed times don’t match your international or regional arrival. The resort makes efforts to match their daily flight schedule according to the needs of the guests, but of course it is possible that you may have a wait of a couple of hours. Having checked through various Trip Advisor reviews it seems that most people are genuinely impressed with their experience. For some guests we have recommended other locations, even knowing that budget wasn’t necessarily the issue. Soneva Kiri is a special kind of escape and we’ve had several Smiling Albino guests overjoyed and grateful for our recommendations.

Take-Away – Soneva Kiri is an inspiring, concept-driven destination resort that ranks with the finest luxury properties in the Maldives or Caribbean. The creativity and sense of humour behind a resort like this – fantasyland really – makes staying an absolute pleasure.

Ideal for couples, families, groups of friends, those with golf cart driving experience.

Perfect for anyone who wants the best of the best – mixed with fun and tropical bliss.

by Scott Coates

Thai Flag

The road from the Thai-Cambodian border at Aranyaprathet-Poipet to Siem Reap, the jumping off point for Angkor Wat, is a legendary one in travel circles. Bumpy journeys of up to 14 excruciating hours through massive potholes, over broken bridges, through rice fields and across small rivers were still being experienced until late 2008. For anyone wanting to get to Angkor Wat’s temples in less than 12 hours from Thailand with their sanity intact, the only option until recently was to fly. The airline serving the area knows this and their rates reflect it, costing about $200US for the 40 minute journey.

Progress in SE Asia is happening at a lightening pace in many respects and the infamous road is no longer so. As of May 3, 2009 it was finally completed, sealed, smooth and ready to go – about six years late (depending on what source you speak to) but in great shape nonetheless.

Despite living in the region working with Smiling Albino since 1999 I had never personally experienced the legendary road (and in many ways wish I had) when it was still in legendary shape. Many of my friends had made the journey, shared their tales of trial and triumph and wore the trip like a badge of travel achievement and honor. My journey certainly doesn’t deserve any badge, but traveling this route can still be a bit confusing and frustrating if you don’t have your ducks in a row.

Smiling Albino has been hosting adventures in Cambodia since 2007. Most of our trips see people fly in/out of the country and occasionally cross the border by land. When guests do go the land route we always have a host who

Cambodian flag

takes care of all the details, makes sure paperwork is in order and ensures the sailing is smooth. A member of the SA Team built our Border Team and I’ll admit I was a bit skeptical as to why a road journey and one border crossing warranted an escort and our services. While hosting a group of reporters on a land journey from Bangkok – Siem Reap to attend the Mekong Travel Forum in May 2010 I found out why.

When traveling (unless you have many months) time is your most valuable asset. Making the most of it key and not wasting it unnecessarily certainly should be a priority. Keeping a smile and enjoying yourself along the way runs a very close second.

Arriving at the Aranyaprathet-Poipet border on the Thai side, we stepped out of our super-comfy van very relaxed (we watched a great documentary on Cambodia in the van) and were immediately approached by lots of Cambodian touts (I had requested no Border Team to experience the process first-hand). They cross the border for 10THB ($0.30US) and offer everything from an umbrella for shade, bag portering to the other side, visa services (which they insist you must secure before leaving Thailand) and all sorts of other things. Don’t listen to what the touts tell you about using their services and walk towards the border.

If you have a lot of bags a porter is a great idea and costs about 100THB ($3US). We employed the services of an enthusiastic person and he followed us to the border, pointing out the building to go through Thailand Immigration. One thing to note is that you don’t see your porter again until you reach the Cambodian side so some trust is involved. Leaving Thailand is quick and straight forward. You exit the building, walk across a small bridge and are immediately struck by large, shiny casinos ahead, a favorite of Thai tourists. You come upon a small building (on the right-hand-side) that issues Cambodian visas on arrival. Do not waste your time bringing pre-prepared Cambodian visa forms as they will only use the documents they have here. Fill one out, provide one passport-sized photo, $20US (or 800THB – a terrible exchange rate) plus 100THB (grease money I assume and there’s no getting around it) and your visa will be issued in about five minutes.

The old road on a VERY good and dry day

A really neat thing if you enjoy a cold one is the Duty Free store next to the visa booth where you can buy a cold can of Guinness Foreign Extra Stout which is not available in Thailand and sip away while waiting for your visa. There aren’t many opportunities to enjoy a beer before you’ve entered a country and I couldn’t resist. Also, if you need a toilet, use one behind the Duty Free Shop or in one of the casinos as there aren’t many good/clean opportunities between Poipet and Siem Reap.

Visa in-hand, proceed about 100m straight and to the right and you reach Cambodian Immigration. Stand here for a few minutes (time to finish your Guinness), your passport gets stamped and you’re in! Now, if you don’t have an escort and transport arranged the real fun begins as you’ll have to negotiate with an assortment of characters for a ride onwards. Everyone seems to have the best car, a friend who has a wonderful van, an uncle who has the best bus that is leaving right away and on it goes. Luckily we had the Smiling Albino Super Van waiting, hopped in, enjoyed a cool towel, some relaxing Khmer music and were off.

The new road to Siem Reap really is something. Not when compared to roads in the west, but its one lane in each direction are perfectly paved, smooth, new electrical poles dot the sides and the going is good. Two hours later we’d arrived at our hotel, the journey feeling like just a few minutes as I’d fallen asleep for much of the journey – proof the road is in top shape.

Smiling Albino is happy to arrange transport to/from Siem Reap and across

Cambodia's new road to Siem Reap from Poipet

the Thai border, making your journey quick and hassle-free. Just send us an email. This new road enables you to see the countryside and most importantly share some moments with locals along the way. If you’re traveling with a couple people it also makes things very affordable.

Numbers:
Siem Reap – Poipet: 150km, about 2 hours
Crossing the Cambodian-Thai border: 250m, about 30 minutes
Aranyaphrathet – Bangkok: 280km, about 3 hours
Total travel time with a couple stops: about 6.5 hours
Price: about $275US

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