How to Use a Thai Toilet

Few things during a trip to Thailand cause as much apprehension, excitement and uncertainty as a visit to the toilet. What’s it going to look like? Will it be dirty? Will I be able to use it? Just what’s behind that door anyway?

There’s definitely no substitute for one’s personal ‘throne,’ and most of us acknowledge this. Who gets excited or is even willing to use a public toilet when one is at home, let alone in a foreign country and traveling well off the beaten path? This is one daily activity that ideally requires the utmost cleanliness, familiarity, and personal space. But, as travelers we forgo this luxury in exchange for the exotic and interesting: an opportunity to see life on the other side of the door.

Half the battle in managing toilets in an unfamiliar country such as Thailand is knowing what to expect, what is expected of you, and how to get it done. Fear not – your friends at Smiling Albino have the advice and answers you’re looking for!

Clean Thai toilet this way!

When you gotta go...

The toilet/bathroom in Thai, hawng nahm, literally translates to ‘water room’. This is a totally accurate name, as everything having to do with relieving one’s self, washing, and freshening-up is done with water in this one usually very small room. Forget the image of a large hotel washroom with fresh hand towels – we’re talking about the toilet at the back of a noodle shop, in a villager’s home, or behind a fresh market. This is when you’re most likely to genuinely need to use the toilet and this is what we’re here to prepare you for.

You walk in: the room is small, hot, humid, and occasionally dirtier than you’d hoped. First thing: yes, that’s a shower head. People do shower in here. It’s likely several peoples’ place to take their two showers a day, using the toilet and everything in between. Be lucky you only have to be in here once for a short time. Unless something has gone terribly wrong, don’t take a shower.

Next, see that small, semi-scummy-looking container of water near the toilet? You’re going to need that and should use it. This is the water you’ll use to perform a manual flush once you’re done.  Presuming you’re a responsible hawng nahm user, you should want to leave things clean for the next person. After doing your business, use the scoop/bucket to pour water into the bowl until there’s no trace of what you were up to.

You need paper for what you’re doing? Be sure to bring your own. If you are traveling with Smiling Albino you’re covered, as your host has a bunch and will have offered it to you before you entered this netherworld of relief. Just don’t throw the paper away in the bowl. Most small, rural plumbing systems such as the one you’re enjoying cannot cope with the copious amounts of tissue westerners use. Have a look around and ahhh, there it is…a small garbage bin almost full to the brim with paper. That’s the place to add your contribution to the pile. Just be glad you’re not the one who has to empty it!

And now the tricky bit – just how do you approach, mount, and use a ‘squat’ toilet? Carefully! Many women prefer a squatter as they don’t have to make contact with a potentially dirty seat, so fear not! First thing – be sure your shoes don’t have mud on them or anything that could cause you to slip. You don’t want to go down in here. Second – have a look around the edges of the bowl that’s sunken into the ground, become familiar with what you’ll have to plant your feet next to/around/on and that it’s not too wet. Third – depending on what you’re doing, carefully undo your pants/shorts/outerwear and ensure that nothing slides down and hits the floor. Fourth – approach, mount, and do what you have to, remembering the previous advice.

Now for the interesting part (as if all that wasn’t interesting enough!): there may be a small hose near the toilet, coming out of the wall, with a sprayer on it that looks like the one on your kitchen sink at home. No, people don’t do their dishes in here. But yes, it’s for washing; the item it washes is you. The back bit. Most visitors are uncomfortable at first when trying ‘the hose’, but anyone who’s lived here for any length of time loves them. Imagine: a couple quick sprays to clean and then drying yourself with paper instead of cleaning with paper, which is far less effective. Give it a go – you’ll thank us for it.

Rural Cambodian toilet: A simple challenge.

Are you ready for the challenge?

Now that you’re done, it’s time to wash your hands. But look – there’s only a small dirty sink with a bit of running water and no soap! Again, you’re in luck as your Smiling Albino host gave you a bottle of hand cleansing gel before you went in and you’re good to go.

Few toilets are as rugged as the one described above but if you’ve asked to get off the tourist trail and have to go then there’s a good chance you’ll experience something like the one we’ve written about here. In fact, it’s probably a good idea to have another read (or print a laminated copy to carry with you!)

Don’t be intimidated by the description of toilets in this piece. It, like our adventures, is intended to find the fun and joy in all aspects of your travel destination. All in all, Thailand is a clean, fun, and wonderful place to be; if you have a bit of pre-travel knowledge of what to expect, it will be that much more enjoyable.

Podcast Discussion: Expat Business Owners in Asia Make Great Friends

Listen to Planet Asia Podcast: Smiling Albino’s Scott Coates and Trevor Ranges discuss how a network of expat business owners can enhance travel in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, or Nepal.  From Koh Samui to Ratanakiri, expat business owners not only provide great hospitality, but also have the passion for and knowledge about their adopted homes that help make Smiling Albino adventures in Asia unique and unforgettable.

Based on the blog Expat Business Owners Make Great Friends as a launching point for their discussion, Scott and Trevor share some greater insight and provide additional examples of how expat business owners are instrumental to exploring Asia, learning about different destinations, and creating the ultimate holidays in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Nepal.  Listen to Planet Asia Podcast now!

 

Great Thai Cooking Schools

Nearly all visitors to Thailand can agree on one thing: Thai food is yummy!  Thailand is blessed with a wealth of arable land, and the kingdom’s wide variety of fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices, along with a long culinary history, has resulted in one of the world’s top cuisines.  While visitors to Thailand can eat Thai food anywhere from Phuket or Bangkok’s fine-dining establishments to the country’s ubiquitous street food stalls, one of the best ways to appreciate and enjoy Thai cuisine is through a Thai cooking course.

Thai Cooking Class in Chiang Mai

Cooking Organic Thai Food

Cooking classes in Thailand vary widely, from 5-star resorts with professional kitchens to budget guesthouses and rural farms with basic, but practical equipment.  Some schools make you feel like you are a guest on a TV cooking show, providing you with perfectly apportioned ingredients that require little preparation and whisking away your dirty dishes to be cleaned ‘backstage’; others require you to prepare dishes from scratch, creating your own chili paste with a mortar and pestle and (o.m.g.) washing your own dishes!!!

Regardless of the cooking school you select, most classes will begin with a trip to a local market.  A visit to a Thai ‘fresh market’ in the early morning is a fun activity in and of itself.  Interacting with the vendors who prepare fresh goods each morning, learning about the ingredients you must shop for, such as the difference between the two types of coconut milk, and photographing the giant piles of different chili/curry pastes is a fascinating experience.  Even if the cooking school has a fully stocked kitchen, most will offer to take you to the morning market so that you can see where the ingredients come from, and typically also explain a bit about how to select the best cooking supplies.

The typical Thai cooking course will require you to select three to five dishes; one or two starters, one or two main courses, and a desert.  Some schools offer fewer options but change the recipes daily, so you should check their upcoming calendars to make sure you don’t miss out on the opportunity to cook your favorite dish.  That said, popular dishes such as som tam (spicy papaya salad), phad thai (stir fried noodles), tom yam (spicy soup), and tom kha (coconut soup) are almost always offered.

Four Thai food dishes at Four Seasons Chiang Mai

Four Course Lunch at Four Seasons Chiang Mai

While there are professional course available in Thailand that offer week-long (or longer) instruction in particular categories of Thai cuisine, most cooking schools geared toward novice cooks are half-day affairs, typically beginning with the morning market tour and ending with lunch (or starting after lunch and ending with dinner).  As a three or four course meal may be a bit much to consume on your own, many schools will allow you to invite a guest to meet you for the best part of the experience, consuming your tasty creations!

Finally, many schools provide souvenir aprons, recipe books, and even take-away packages of ingredients; others have numerous products for sale, from dried curry-paste kits to instructional DVDs.

Culinary Schools

Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts
46/6 Moo 3, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui
Tel: +66(0)77-413-172

While SITCA offers one and two week professional training courses, the culinary institute also offers one day Thai cooking classes and fruit/vegetable carving courses. The school, which is just across the street from Koh Samui’s spectacular Chaweng Beach, is a great place to spend a rainy day or pick up some cooking skills on your beach holiday.  They also have a mail-order service that includes DVDs, recipe books, and ingredients not easily found at your home market.  SITCA even offers short, free, online instructional videos if you aren’t fortunate enough to travel to Thailand or you want to brush up on your Thai cooking skills before or after your visit to Samui.

Outdoor Kitchen at Thai food cooking class

Cook Thai food in outdoor kitchens!

Thai Farm Cooking School
203 Moo 5, Tambon Muanglen, Chiang Mai
Tel: +66(0)81-288-5989

Certainly one of the most unique Thai cooking courses available, the one-day Thai Farm Cooking School class is easily the most hands-on of the lot.  After selecting which five dishes you will prepare that day, you will visit a morning market to learn about ingredients and pick up the few items unavailable at the farm.  After a 30-minute drive into the countryside you will arrive at the farm, where your instructor will walk you through the garden, leading a discussion of the ingredients and offering samples to taste and smell.  The open-air sala for preparing the ingredients, including mashing your own curry paste, is great for socializing with other students, and the preparation of dishes (performed simultaneously with the instructor’s demonstration) is fast and fun.

Blue Elephant Royal Thai Cuisine and Cooking School
233 South Sathorn Rd, Bangkok
96, 1/3 Krabi Road, Phra Pitak Chinpracha Mansion, Phuket Town
Tel: +66(0)22-659-9000 (Bangkok) / +66(0)76-354-355-7 (Phuket)

Whether you are in Bangkok or Phuket, one of the finest places to enroll in a Thai cooking course is at Blue Elephant.  The two Thai venues of this acclaimed international restaurant chain are both within beautiful buildings that exude Thai style and charm.  The demonstration areas and kitchens are arguably the finest in the kingdom; we particularly appreciated the mirror placed at an angle above the cooking instructor’s working area that allows students to clearly see the way ingredients are cut and prepared.  Morning and afternoon classes are followed by lunch or dinner in the restaurant’s elegant dining room, and multi-day packages are available for those looking for a more intensive training program.

Hotel-based Cooking Courses

Vegetable Carving at Thai Cooking Class

Vegetable Carving is an Art!

Four Seasons Chiang Mai
Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, Chiang Mai
Tel: +66(0)53-298-181

The Four Seasons Chiang Mai cooking school has a beautiful setting within an open-air teak room overlooking the resort’s rice fields.  While the Four Seasons has all the ingredients necessary and the market tour is therefore optional, you should go for the experience and knowledge you will gain.  Otherwise, both the Thai cooking class and the fruit and vegetable carving classes are excellent, with the instructor cheerfully explaining how to prepare some creative dishes (spicy laab salad served in a hollowed out dragon fruit) that can easily be altered to suit your taste or your serving needs: “Throwing a cocktail party?  You can serve individual portions of the laab inside Thai-style soup spoons!”

Mandarin Oriental
48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok
Tel: +66(0)2-238-0265

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok features Thailand’s oldest cooking school.  As the classes are given in a charming wooden house on the Chao Phraya River, across from the hotel, the class is one of few not to offer a market tour.  That said, knowledgable instructors explain Thai ingredients well and discuss the benefits of different cooking instruments, including brass woks.  Rather than producing multiple dishes independently, students work together on recipes so that a surplus of food isn’t prepared, and the neighboring spa is a fine treat for yourself after eating a satisfying, but not overly filling lunch.

Spring Rolls are a Thai cooking classic

Learning to make Thai Spring Rolls!

The Anantara Golden Triangle
229 Moo 1, Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai
Tel: +66(0)53-784-084

As if providing elephant training classes and rides wasn’t enough, Anantara offers an outstanding cooking class that combines a historical field trip with its morning market tour.  After shopping at the market and enjoying a breakfast picnic at the ruins in historic Chiang Saen, guests return to the resort to try their hand at cooking Thai food in a traditional and very natural way.  Utilizing clay cooking pots and wooden spoons, students measure ingredients by eye and adjust recipes to taste, cooking and dining in a charming kitchen area that exudes old-world charm.

 

One we haven’t tried that seems interesting:

Smile House Trek Cooking Course
Smile House Guesthouse – Chiang Mai

While we’ve never tried one of these Jungle Survival Cooking Classes, cooking tasty food in the wilderness just seems like something every good adventurer or explorer should know how to do.  The market tour apparently discusses the ingredients one might find in the jungle, including mushrooms, sweet potatoes, and taro.  Students are then taught how to cook over an open fire using natural utensils: rice in bamboo, fish wrapped in banana leaves, and ‘jungle’ pork curry inside a coconut!

 

Albino Smiles – January 2012/2555

Happy New Year friends! Did you make any resolutions? No reason to suffer them; add some excitement and reward yourself for your efforts! Trying to get in shape? How about a 2012 holiday in Northern Thailand that features mountain biking and hiking! Plan to lose some weight? Visit Bangkok or Ho Chi Minch City and get a new, tailor-made wardrobe! Quitting smoking? How about a detox-spa in Koh Phangan or a meditation retreat in Siem Reap? It’s a new year everyone! Smiling Albino has big plans for making our adventures and experiences better than ever in 2012, and we hope that you can make the most of this fresh start and enjoy yourselves while doing so!

Keep fit with a Bike Holiday in Thailand!

Keep fit with a Bike Holiday in Thailand!

What’s Going On?

Year of the Dragon! – The Chinese New Year is just around the corner! Chinese communities all around Asia will be celebrating the arrival of the year of the dragon with two weeks of festivities beginning on January 23rd! Bangkok’s Yaowarat, one of the world’s largest China-towns, is one of our favorite places to celebrate in Southeast Asia; we hope to see some of you there!

Bangkok’s Best Movie Theatres – Visitors to Bangkok usually don’t plan on going to see a movie while they are in Thailand, but they are always surprised to discover how cozy (and inexpensive!) the theater experience in Bangkok can be! Check out some of the best movie theaters in Bangkok according to CNN Go!

Posts, Pictures, Flicks & Podcasts

Planet Asia Blog:

A few of our Favorite Expat Business Owners in Cambodia – From Luang Prabang to Koh Samui and all points in between, some of the best places to stay or dine are run by foreigners, most of whom happen to be both interesting people and outstanding hosts. Here are a few reasons why we enjoy meeting these individuals, featuring a handful of intrepid expat business owners in remote areas of Cambodia. Read More…

Tanya and friend: Mondulkiri, Cambodia

Tanya and friend: Mondulkiri, Cambodia

Coming up on Planet Asia – Stay tuned for 2012′s new blogs and podcasts! Looking for the best beer in Bangkok? Can’t decide if Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai is the right destination to visit? Want to know the best way to spend 48 hours in Phnom Penh or Ho Chi Minh City? Stay tuned for interesting interviews, discussions with experts and expats, and our very own insider tips for discovering the best of Southeast Asia! Read More…

Adventure Highlights

Classic Cambodia – Looking to live out your Indiana Jones or Lara Croft fantasies? While there is only a slim chance of sighting Mrs. Jolie-Pitt, a frequent visitor to Cambodia, you will certainly experience romance and adventure in one of the hottest tourist destinations in the world, the Angkor Archaeological Park. The ancient temples are a few miles from charming Siem Reap, a town replete with boutique hotels, open-air restaurants, and excellent shopping opportunities. The six-day Classic Cambodia adventure showcases the Kingdom’s history from charming Phnom Penh’s French-colonial architecture to tragic memorials of the Khmer Rouge era, as well as spectacular temples, beautiful countryside, and fascinating culture. 6-day Classic Cambodia adventures are available on demand.

Exploring Angkor by air provides a fascinating perspective.

Exploring Angkor by air provides a fascinating perspective.

Thailand Trek and Trails – Our 10 day Thailand Trek and Trail, next starting on January 14, is the best adventure for active travelers looking to stay fit on their holiday to Thailand. Seeking a cultural journey with an outstanding workout each day? This adventure stands out as the ultimate multi-activity Siamese experience. Awesome bike rides combined with stunning hikes and multiple modes of transport make each day more exhilarating than the last. Contact us about our next scheduled Trek and Trail or other multi-sport adventure.

Connect With Smiling Albino!

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Contact:Get a hold of us any time.

 

Explore Angkor by land, water, and air!

Another of our favorite things about travel in Southeast Asia is the variety of transportation options available.  Cities such as Bangkok have unique and interesting methods of getting around town that are not only enjoyable but are also often the most efficient ways to move from attraction to attraction; in fact, our Bangkok Multi-transport, which utilizes canal boat, tuk tuk, and sky train is one of our most exciting and popular adventures!

While there are no electric monorails in Cambodia, it’s possible that Thailand’s developing neighbor might actually offer a greater number of transportation experiences: Batdambang has the ‘bamboo train,’ rural home-stays frequently employ ox carts for visiting nearby attractions, and there are some luxury river boats that allow you to travel the Mekong River in style (stay tuned for an upcoming blog specifically featuring these!).  All that said, the greatest variety of transportation you can experience in a single day is available for those exploring the temples of Angkor Archaeological Park, just outside Siem Reap.

Cambodian Tuk Tuk

Cambodian Tuk Tuk

Getting into the park:

While it is possible to hire a car or minivan to escort you the 5km from Siem Reap to Angkor, this commonplace option is only advisable in the height of the ‘hot season,’ when air-conditioning can provide some much-needed shelter, or for groups traveling with the elderly family or friends.

The most popular option is to visit the park by tuk tuk.  Unlike tuk tuks in Thailand, the Cambodian tuk tuk isn’t a single vehicle but rather a small motorbike that pulls a covered carriage.  The carriages seat four quite comfortably and have rooftops high enough to allow all passengers to easily see the sights while touring the park.  Cambodian tuk tuks even feature roll-down plastic walls to enclose the carriage and protect riders from dust or rain!

Explore Angkor by Bicycle

Explore Angkor Thom by Bicycle

Riding a bicycle into the park is also an excellent option.  While the main temples, such as Angkor Wat, are a mere 5-10 km north of Siem Reap, Angkor features hundreds of temples within an area of roughly 1,000 square kilometers! Even if you are going for a leisurely tour around the centralized temples and you are fit enough to spend your entire day peddling around, a higher quality mountain bike will make your ride much easier and more enjoyable.  A sturdy bike will also allow you to explore some of the more interesting areas of the park. Ta Nei temple, which is centrally located but down a seasonally sandy/muddy path, is inaccessible by car or tuk tuk.  More adventurous riders will enjoy a ride along the top of the Angkor Thom enclosure wall. Both are great ways to avoid the crowds and enjoy the natural environment of the park.

Angkor by Elephant

Angkor by Elephant

When western missionaries and adventurers first discovered the temples of Angkor, the best way to travel was by elephant.  Thanks to Compagnie des Elephants d’Angkor, it’s still possible to experience the thrill of ‘exploring’ the temples in such a manner, provided you give way to the tuk tuks and tour busses! After lumbering across the causeway leading into Angkor Thom, you will pass through an 800 year-old city gate that was not only built large enough for real elephants to pass, but also features larger than life sandstone elephants pulling up lotus flowers with their trunks!  While half the elephants work the morning shift from the South Gate to Bayon temple, the other half work the evening shift, ferrying guests up to the hilltop temple of Phnom Bakheng: arguably the more enjoyable ride.

 

Those who have biked into the park and need a break upon arrival at Angkor Thom’s South Gate have a couple of other alternatives for exploring the sights in the old city, including electric car.  Similar to those you might find at a western amusement park, these electric cars can seat up to 10 passengers; available by the hour, the cars travel quite noiselessly from temple to temple inside Angkor Thom, offering an eco-friendly way to rest your legs and enjoy some leisurely sightseeing.

Angkor Electric Cars

Angkor Electric Cars

Also available at the South Gate is a collection of boats that navigate the moat around the fortified city.  Angkor Gondola offers a variety of Khmer-style boats that ferry small groups upon the city moat to the infrequently visited West Gate.  If this peaceful and romantic ride along the forest-fringed waterway wasn’t enough, Angkor Gondola also leads guests on a short walk atop the city enclosure wall to one of the isolated Corner Shrines for sunset champagne overlooking the moat and forest.

Angkor Gondola Boat

Angkor Gondola Boat

Haven’t had enough adventure for one day? A quick must-ride mode of ‘transportation’ is available from Angkor Balloon.  This large hot-air balloon is tethered to the ground just west of Angkor Wat so you don’t travel anywhere but up, but the short, spectacular ride provides an outstanding birds-eye view of Cambodia’s most famous temple, as well as nearby Phnom Bakheng.

Finally, those looking for the ultimate aerial adventure can opt for a helicopter or microlight tour of the temples.  Although prohibited from flying directly over Cambodia’s ancient, religious monuments, helicopters and microlight aircraft can cover a great distance over a relatively short time and the aerial perspective is the best way to appreciate the immensity of the former Khmer capital, including its numerous sandstone pyramids, massive artificial reservoirs, and moat-enclosed temple complexes.

Angkor Wat from Angkor Balloon

Angkor Wat from Angkor Balloon

With so many options to choose from when exploring the expansive and attraction-filled Angkor Archaeological Park, it’s easy to understand why so many visitors are flocking to see this world wonder!  Whether exploring on your own by tuk tuk or bike, or hiring a reputable cycling organization to lead you on a biking adventure, a little coordinated planning will help you have a far more interesting experience than the one offered to those stuck on tour buses, who are simply herded through the standard sights.

Cambodia Travel Provider

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