by Daniel Fraser

I escaped from the office for several days on a whirlwind exploration of Isaan – and a few country bars – to survey routes and find hidden gems for a November motorcycle journey.

Stepping out into a new region like this requires first-hand exploration by SA trip planners. We eat the food, find the back roads, sleep in the beds, but most of all we try find a way to seamlessly fit the best of all worlds together in the form of an itinerary we can be proud of. This can be tedious and enjoyable in the same minute. I covered hundreds of roads, crossing most off the list, ate at dozens of restaurants and surveyed all kinds of hotels, pubs, temples and other Isaan roadside attractions. For our trips to be authentic we need to experience it all first-hand, we need to meet the cook, high-five the bartender, tip the band, find the hidden roads and make sure the pool has water in it. Sounds easy….but there’s always more to it than meets the eye.

Consider this: 22 million live in Isaan which is serviced by 3 primary airports (Udon, Khon Kaen, Ubon). The road network is extensive and finding great routes between two points can involve multiple scenarios – each providing a new adventure or obstacle, usually both.

Finding great places to stay is paramount while surveying for an SA trip – and this is particularly challenging in Isaan. You may end up with several 300km + days in order to find the type of accommodations Smiling Albino would feel comfortable using.

The mountains of Loei – and their fabulous, quiet country roads make for some superb motorcycling. Then the gorgeous route along the Mekong River all the way towards Nong Khai means there can easily be 3-4 days of nice riding in the region. However, anything between Nong Khai, Udon and Nakorn Phanom is a lot of driving for little reward in terms of accommodation. There are very few accommodation option within 1hr of Udon or Nakorn Phanom to make an eastern loop worthwhile, and ending a trip at either location would be a downer after the great mountain rides in Loei, and the lovely scenery along the Mekong.

The key to success for a two-wheeled journey in this region is finding secondary roads in good condition – which is also particularly challenging in Isaan. There is no shortage of good food, rhythmic country music and good cheer. Isaan has an endearing charm – completely on its own terms – that in itself is worth the journey.

Trying to summarize six, 14-hr days is best done by mentioning a few must-do’s that will figure into future SA motorcycle trips in this region.

the flat, curvy road along the Mekong, Loei

Top 5’s for motorcycling:

1 – the long route from Wang Saphung (90min west of Udon) south through the Phu Luang Mountrain Range is stunning – and the road is one of the best motorcycling (or biking) routes I’ve seen in Isaan.

2 – the classic ride from Chiang Khan nearly all the way to Nong Khai; 150km of wide turns and broad river views.

3 – the elevated rural road south of the Phu Tok Temple all the way down through Sri Songkram and emptying out in Nakorn Phanom. If you have the time – and can handle a night of dull accommodations – this is a great country ride. Spotless road, great reservoir views, and quaint towns with good food along the way.

4 – the long road into Udon from Sakhon Nakorn, following secondary roads south of Udon through the millions of rice fields and villages.

5 – Smiling Albino’s new shortcut 30km before Chiang Khan through a series of postcard-worthy villages and brilliant green pastures.

Top 5 SA-approved places to stay if weaving it together on motorcycle

1 – the Loei mountains, of course, are a real draw, so a couple of nights here in the more atmospheric places like Phu Pha Nam and Chachanat Woodland Retreat are worth a night or two. Some daily motorcycle sorties would be outstanding from either location.

Mekong Villas Thai House, Loei

2 – Mekong Villas Baan Huai Faen

This hideaway has all the exclusivity and regal charm of Chakrabongse Villa in Bangkok. Superb location 150km before Nong Khai along the Mekong and 34km from Chiang Khan.

3 – Green Gecko and Gecko Villa near Udon is another great find. Private, classy country home with luxury finishings and a beautiful Thai home neslted in the forest.

4 – If golfing……Victory Golf Club south of Nong Khai has comfortable rooms on the golf course, so a decent view, and around a pool, so a short stroll for a dip. Not fancy, but not a highway motor inn either.

5 – In terms of service with a smile, great food, real coffee, exclusive river views and people who seem to care what they are doing, the Mut Mee Guesthouse in Nong Khai is a winner. Probably not the right fit for Smiling Albino trips as the lack of mini bar and pool / spa could throw the SA Team and our guests into a spin. Nong Khai Resort, though an odd location, has the amenities lacking above – but of course lacks the charm and location of the Mut Mee.

A few must-do’s that will figure into future SA trips in Isaan

1 – The Adventurous Side

Excellent motorcycling, gorgeous hikes, treacherous staircases, fun country bars, the Mighty Mekong and a well-planned itinerary means you’re in for a supreme good time in Thailand’s wild northeast.

2 – The Spiritual Side

Sala Kaew Koo, Wat Phu Tok near Sri Wilai and Wat Phanom, of course, are very good excuses to make long day loops out along the Mekong for a little slice of nirvana.

3 – The Gastronomic Side

The heart and soul of Thai / Lao cuisine…..with some occasional intestines and dancing shrimp thrown in!

Isaan food is superb and will be a focal point on any SA trip out here. From street-side “nam tok” stands to the more elaborate garden-style restaurants, Isaan is a culinary adventure.

4 – The Musical Side

Country music bars: this is the real deal in Isaan where music is as deep as religion. Isaan music, particularly “maw laam”, has an almost hypnotic bounce to it that makes for a fun night out. Sprinkling some “music for life” or pua cheewit into the mix absolutely means you’ll have fun in the small towns of Isaan.

5 – The Lighter Side

Let’s face it, Isaan involves a few more bumps and grinds than the rest of Thailand, and as a visitor you’ll need to learn to laugh at yourself, and others, with the same genuine goodness as the locals.