by Scott Coates

It had been some time since I’d been to Ko Samui. One of Thailand’s best known islands, it’s been a tropical paradise destination for travelers for the last 20 years. Once entirely coconut plantations and jungle, word got out, people took boats over, beach bungalows were built and groups slowly grew into crowds.

Fast forward a bunch of years, renovations of original bungalow complexes, many of those turned into simple concrete huts, then proper buildings and now world class resorts, an international reputation and airport and there you have it – Ko Samui 2552 (2009).

The plane touched down at 06:50, I was in my rental car by 07:30 and

Ko Samui is paradise

searching madly for coffee by 07:50. There were no coffee shops open. All closed. I guess no matter how big and island gets as a destination, some habits die hard and not even in swinging Chwaeng Beach was there a place to grab some hot roasted beans in the early morning. In paradise and no basic elements to start my day – I would have to grab a cup at the first of 11 hotels I was to inspect that day to put together Ko Samui Beach Escapes.

The first hotel was supposed to be 5-star, hip, cool and new-concept but tanked. The manager missed our appointment; I sat for 20 minutes and was not offered a coffee (when would I get one in my system!) then after asking to be shown around by someone, was sent out with a girl on her second day working there. How can I recommend this place to guests even if the rooms were pretty nice? Not on our list!

Second stop: new, sleek, trying to be a back-to-nature property that is quite nice. Still held together with a lot of concrete, but lots of bamboo and they don’t really have a good beach at the resort, something that is surprisingly prevalent in places like Ko Samui and Phuket. It’s almost like the more you spend per night, the smaller the beach or further away your room is from it. Nice, will work with this second property as it’s in a nice price-point, but I still don’t have a coffee.

Montra's comfy bedroom

Montra Samui was a pleasant surprise and I was offered a coffee within a couple minutes which by now is what I was really interested in. Breakfast was offered (very appreciated and wanted) but declined (due to time constraints to get everything done), the staff were shining and I had a coffee in my hand while seeing the property. I was impressed. Just eight rooms make up the Montra, it’s a 15 minute walk from Lamai Beach, there’s not much outside its walls but it’s nice, run with style and by friendly people that care. If it’s a nice place to sleep, relax and enjoy some meals but you don’t want to blow the budget and don’t need to be on the beach, then this is a good option.

A few uninspiring places (no offers of coffee either), mainly due to being by run by staff that have not been trained in running higher-end establishments or ones pretending to be, cheap finishings all around, and the quick impression to the trained inspecting eye that they’re nothing more than a $60US/night room with a calming slap of paint, some nice bath foam next to the shower and the word ‘spa’ tagged on the end of the name. Certainly not worth the $200US+/night they were asking. Off the list.

Bring on Poppies, a property I’d heard of from friends that write guidebooks,

Poppies is very comfy

long term residents and those in-the-know. It’s been around for nearly 20 years, is small but has class. The lobby is old-school and really unimpressive. I almost wanted to leave after having trouble finding someone to help me. I then met the manager, had a nice chat and he walked me into the grounds which are in the back along Chwaeng Beach. Twenty-something tasteful units are set amongst lush gardens, their restaurant’s popularity has swelled due to extremely good taste and the beach is exquisite. And, all in the heart of what is supposed to be noisy, overrun Chwaeng Beach. Not at all – sign me up!

Each room is unique

Relais & Chateaux (R&L) is a unique property brand I only came to know since working in Thailand. Their Chiang Mai property, the Rachamankha is one of our favorites in the kingdom and one we love putting our guests at. Truly a one-of-a-kind, steeped in tradition and class. Karma Kamet became an R&C member in November 2009 and why is obvious. No R&L property is like another R&L property and great attention to design has taken place here. Each of the 12 rooms are unique, obviously furnishings hand-purchased and you’re not sure where you are – certainly not in a small building on Ko Samui’s north shore. A really neat vibe for the author penning her next work liberally splashed with dips in the ocean.

It’s neat to see locally grown brands make it. The Anantara seems to be

One of the island's nicest pools

doing just that. Started by the country’s most famous foreigner-come-Thai-come-business man, William Heineke, the Anantara struck to provide 5-star, truly Thai services and experiences throughout the kingdom and they’re doing it. Their Golden Triangle location has been a long favorite, there’s another handful around the country and they’re sure to become a well known name worldwide soon. Their Ko Samui location is no exception. One thing that really stood out during my time on the island is that things are overpriced compared to other beach destinations like Ao Nang, Ko Phi Phi and Railay Bay, Krabi, Ko Chang and Ko Samet. You pay about 50% more here than other spots, but close to the price at Phuket. When you calculate service, room quality, environment, quality of beach and others, the Anantara is a no-brainer if you have about $200US/night to spend and want to be comfy. I wish I could go for a week right now.

Luxurious through and through

Tongsai Bay was first brought to my attention by a friend writing a travel book when I asked about sure bets on the island some years ago. It’s one of, if not the original luxury property on Ko Samui. Time has served it well, unlike so many beach hotels I drove past, the lobby wreaks traditional beach charm, rooms are timeless and well-appointed, and the amenities/facilities top-drawer. They even have regular and adults-only swimming pools. And the beach is very nice too.

What else could I expect from the absolute best from the Four Seasons? I

Simply the best

couldn’t envision a beach hotel from them as I had to date experienced their city and mountain properties in Thailand, but they nailed it. From the moment you arrive at their purpose-built reception area atop a cliff overlooking the ocean, you know you’ve arrived. A buggy ride down a super steep path and across the hill brings you to the villas. And boy, are they special. Everything has been thought of, included, procured and at your disposal. Beach – incredible and private. Rooms – exquisite. Spa – wild. Fitness center – tops. You name it, it’s here. No reason to leave at all, ever. But I still had more places to see.

The aforementioned properties were listed from least to most expensive, but not necessarily from least to most admired by the writer.

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