“Beer season” in Southeast Asia is almost upon us: winter is the only time cool enough to drink al fresco in most of the region, and this year offers the largest selection of hand-crafted and imported beers perhaps ever available. That said, while the bands will play and the beer will flow freely the next few months, brewing culture in the region is not particularly storied. Although Vietnam has an unique beer culture: offering $0.10-0.25 drafts of beer hoi (fresh beer) to patrons squatting on tiny plastic chairs at outdoor street corners, and Thailand wildly embraces the sprawling outdoor beer-garden featuring live bands and ‘beer girls’ serving five-liter towers of draft, neither an actual brewing culture nor an appreciation for the art (and taste) of micro-brewing has long been evident.
Over the years, a handful of brewpubs in Southeast Asia have come and gone. Only a few have survived upwards of a decade, and these perhaps owe their success to factors other than beer, including entertainment and cuisine. Recently, however, the emergence of new brewpubs and bars offering specialty beers may reflect a new appreciation of beer that will continue to grow. While Bangkok is leading the way in the craft beer renaissance and relatively sleepy Hanoi has perhaps more small breweries than any other regional city save Saigon, we’re saving those for another day (and another fun round of research) to highlight a few of our favorite brewpubs in Phnom Penh, Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia Brewpubs
Man Han Lou Restaurant
Address: #456 Monivong Blvd (Street 93)
Telephone: +855(0)23-721-966
Overview: Man Han Lou Restaurant is a bit out of the way, at the southern end of Monivong Blvd, just beyond the Vietnamese Embassy. The towering restaurant looks more like a hotel, and, undoubtedly shuttling visitors of nearby Chinese tour-group hotels. Man Hou makes some of the most creative beers in the region.
Setting: There is a “pub” room on the ground floor where the small fermentation vessels and beer storage tanks sit behind a glass wall, and small bronze brew kettles take center stage (though the bar surrounding the kettles was littered with empty Heineken bottles). The atmosphere in the main dining area is more an unpolished and informal Chinese Restaurant than brew pub.
Beer: The brewery produces four beers. A potable “Gold Draft”, a stout, the intriguing “Jade Draft” and a Red Ale. Australian barley, Chinese wolfberries, Czech Xiangjiu flowers, and Cambodian water combine in a unique Red Ale, that is more aromatic and balanced than the Jade Draft, a green beer with a weizen-like sourness and minimal hop bouquet or bite. The Jade is enhanced with natural spirulina extract, and features the same Xiangjiu flowers found in the Red. The translation from the Chinese was ‘flower’ ‘smell’ ‘alcohol,’ perhaps suggesting a dry hopping that wasn’t apparent in the bouquet, but could have explained the small green flakes floating around my glass. The character of the beers is better than their taste, so those interested in creative recipes will be more impressed than those looking for a cool brewpub and tasty suds. ($3 – 3.50 for 400ml and $6 – 7 for 1250ml)
Food: The unique menu features photo spreads of particular dishes, historical information about Cambodian dancing, and an article about exotic local cuisine, including deep-fried insects. There are pages of entrees from Khmer, Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese cuisine; sadly there are no insects on the menu, so dim sum is the recommended accompaniment to the beer.
Entertainment/Music: The main dining room features Cambodian classical and folk dance performances on some nights; there isn’t a fixed schedule, but you’re more likely to catch a show on a Friday or Saturday night one would presume.
Munich Germany Beer Restaurant
Address: Sothearos Blvd
Telephone: +855(0)81-889966
Open: 11am – 11pm
Overview: This unassuming beer garden is close to the major Phnom Penh attractions, just a block from the riverside, south of the Royal Palace, and opposite the Vietnam-Cambodia Friendship Memorial park.
Setting: In addition to the outdoor garden seating, there are three large air-conditioned family/party rooms, though the action (as it were) is in the garden, which is low on style and décor, but comfortable for drinking on cool winter nights.
Beer: The “gold” is a clear, yet not crisp, tasty lager with a bit more hop flavor than the bottled favorites found around town. The stout is served unfiltered and is arguably more potent, as are most extra stouts popularly consumed in cans throughout Cambodia. Gold and stout in 1/3, ½, and 1 liter drafts: $1.20, $2.20, and $4 respectively ($0.30 – $0.40 more for stout).
Food: If you hunt through the menu you will find selections that can pass for German entrees (something akin to a pork knuckle was in there), but the menu is almost strictly Khmer. While relatively diverse, the specialty seems to be seafood, and all dishes are available “small” or “large” size for reasonable prices, though one would assume even the “smalls” are reasonably large as the atmosphere suggests dining family style, sharing with a group of friends of family.
The Tap Room: Kingdom Brewery
Address: No 1748 National Road 5
Telephone: +855(0)23-430
Open: Monday – Saturday 1pm – 8pm
Web: kingdombreweries.com
Overview: This modern and comfortable taproom would be a better edition to the Phnom Penh bar scene if it were closer to the action. As a brewery-cum-bar it’s in an ideal location: the brewing equipment easily fit into this former milk processing facility that overlooks the Tonle Sap River. Despite its out-of-the-way location, its one of the most comfortable venues in the region to sample some locally brewed beer.
Setting: A classic wood and brass pub-style bar surrounded by stools dominates the tap room, while several comfortable booths and an outdoor smoking area with river view and shady umbrellas provides the other drinking areas. Khmer artwork and a jungle-themed Kingdom Brewery mural provide tasteful touches of décor.
Beer: Kingdom produces both a classic pilsner and a dark lager. The Clouded Leopard Pilsner is crisp and potable; seemingly produced to satisfy the palate of the bottled beer market Kingdom is strongly courting with advertising throughout the city. The darker lager, which is arguably the best in the region, offers a tasty chocolate malt finish, though the beer is unfortunately not available on draught except for special events for parties of 20+ people. (Draught pilsner available for $1 a mug. Bottled dark & pilsner for $1.50. 10.5 liter kegs are $19).
Crowd: The crowd on most weeknights is limited to those few in the know (mostly professional expats) or random travelers who have made the tuk-tuk journey beyond the epicenter of tourist nightlife and dining. The taproom is open 6 days a week (closed Sundays) and you are likely to have the place (and the attention of the friendly bar staff) to yourself.
Entertainment/Music: No live entertainment as of yet, though interesting and informative brewery tours are available for visitors upon request during most business hours.
Tips: The brewing equipment is proudly on display for visitors looking to see how the beer is produced, and while no food is served, it’s a great place for sunset beers before heading out to dinner.
Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam Brewpubs
Hoa Vien Brauhaus
Address: 28 bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1
Telephone: +84(0)8-829-0585
Web: www.hoavien.vn
Overview: Arguably one of the livelier brewpubs in southeast Asia, Hoa Vien Brauhaus may be a bit tricky to find, but has an authentic atmosphere, excellent beer, and a diverse menu certain to please any visitor. While this venue is an “Honorary Consulate of the Czech Republic”, there are also locations simply serving beer in Hanoi and Mui Ne.
Setting: Tucked away in a back alley off Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Hoa Vien is a large, multi-room brauhaus, the centerpiece of which is a bar that surrounds the small, brass brew-kettles. Czech beer-hall music fills the entire brewpub, whose walls are adorned with vintage beer posters, empty bottles, and other memorabilia: a festive and vibrant atmosphere that includes numerous TV’s broadcasting various sports.
Beer: Hoa Vien offers both a pilsner and a dark lager, both of which are clear, crisp, and palatable, and is the only establishment offering Pilsner Urquell in Vietnam. The filtered dark is arguably the best on tap in the city, with medium body and bitterness, and is available in various portions including one and two liter growlers and kegs of varying size. If take-away beer is impractical, the brewery also sells ceramic beer mugs to bring home as a souvenir. Pilsner (.3l – 30,000d/$1.50, .5l – 38,000d/$2, 1l growler– 82,000d/$4, 2l growler 164,000d/$8, 5l keg – 420,000d/$20, 20l keg – 1,560,000d/$75).
Food: The menu is typically diverse; featuring a range of Vietnamese, German, and Czech dishes, such as Bavarian grilled pork thigh (194,000d/$9.50), as well as more exotic fare, including red caviar (410,000d/$20).
Nguyen Du Brauhof
Address: 98 Nguyen Du Street, D1
Telephone: +84(0)3822-6861
Hours: Monday – Saturday: 11am – 11pm
Overview: Nguyen Du Brauhof is one of the most authentic European-style craft brewpubs in the region (as opposed to a beer hall). As one of the smallest breweries around, the beer quality likely varies substantially from batch to batch, but this is arguably a good reason to come back repeatedly, as the food is excellent and the atmosphere charming.
Setting: Nguyen Du occupies the ground floor of a large two-story house. A pair of vintage BMW motorcycles is parked just within the front door and cabinets and shelves throughout the brick and wood dining room feature ceramic beer steins and other beer-related memorabilia. A small patio allows for al fresco drinking and dining.
Beer: The best of the three beers on offer is the (heffe) weizen, which is a perfect complement to the predominately German menu, though the head coagulated and dissipated quite rapidly. The unfiltered Dunkel is rich and malty, though perhaps difficult to drink in the 5-liter towers that the beer is also offered in. The pilsner is crisp and potable for those looking for something more refreshing. (Helles/Lager: .5l – 44,000d/$2, Weizenbier: .5l – 46,000d/$2, Dunkel: .5l – 45,000d/$2)
Food: Menu offers a wide range of ”homemade” Vietnamese and German dishes, and interestingly a few Russian, Japanese, and French offerings. Try the wiener schnitzel (155,000d/$7.50), smoked sausage with mashed potatoes (85,000d/$4), or the grilled German bacon and sauerkraut (125,000/$6).
Lion Beer Brauhaus
Address: 11C Lam Son Square, D1
Tel: +84(0)8823-8414
Overview: Lion Beer has a central location, an excellent menu, and a pair of tasty and inexpensive German beers, making it almost a must-visit for those visiting Ho Chi Minh City, though those looking for a better beer might head elsewhere.
Setting: Outdoor picnic-table seating opposite the opera house is a great people-watching venue, while the large indoor beer-hall has tables for 4 to 40, as well as a small bar beneath a massive projection TV that frequently features regional and international soccer matches.
Beer: Lion offers a ‘gold’ and a ‘dark’ as well as a selection of local and imported beers (though I don’t know who would order a Corona here). The dark has a mild maltiness, low bitterness, and low carbonation, making it one of the lighter and more quaffable dark beers in the area. The ‘gold’ is crisp and refreshing and also lightly hopped, made from all imported German ingredients by a German brew master in Kaspar-Shulz kettles. (300ml – 30,000d/$1.50, 500ml – 40,000d/$2, 1liter – 75,000d/$3.75).
Food: A very eclectic menu of Vietnamese, German, and other international dishes, including a sausage platter of German bratwurst, kielbasa, and honey-glazed smoked ham (185,000d/$9). The menu also offers braised ostrich, stewed oxtail, New Zealand mussels, BBQ Texas pork ribs, and some excellent seafood options, such as lobster flambé in scallop sauce (315,000d/$15) and shrimps steamed in hop beer!
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Best beers:
Hoa Vien Pilsner, Nguyen Du Weizen, Kingdom Dark
Best atmosphere:
Hoa Vien Brauhaus, Nguyen Du Brauhof
Friendliest staff and best brewery tour:
Kingdom Tap Room
Greenest beer not designed for St Patrick’s Day:
Man Han Lou Jade


December 6th, 2011
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