Some of the greatest people we meet in our explorations are expatriate business owners.  Foreigners from all over the world have opened their own guesthouse, bar, restaurant, social enterprise, or wildlife project in nearly every corner of Southeast Asia.  When visiting a new destination, its important to check out every hotel, bar, restaurant, spa, etc and we literally meet everyone in town.

From Luang Prabang to Koh Samui and all points in between, some of the best places to stay or dine are run by foreigners, most of whom happen to be both interesting people and outstanding hosts.  Here are a few reasons why we enjoy meeting these individuals, featuring a handful of intrepid expat business owners in remote areas of Cambodia.

First of all, these friends love the places they’ve chosen to set up shop in and so they make best sources of information about everything in their areas.  You want to rent a motorbike for a day?  They know the most reliable place and often have that person’s phone number.  Need to know which waterfall is the best to swim in?  Wow, you’re off tomorrow and offering to drive me in your jeep!  How about a great new restaurant in town? It’s often run by one of the other expats living in the area!

Middle of Somewhere Cafe Mondulkiri

In fact, as the expat communities are generally small in many remote areas, finding the right person to speak to can be an invaluable source.  One such expat is Bill Herod at Middle of Somewhere in Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri.  Interested in visiting some local tribal villages? Bill can arrange for a young tribe member to escort you via motorbike.  While incredibly low-key, Bill is clearly passionate about the people and land of his adopted home, and you are unlikely to find anyone around as insightful and helpful.  Oh, you wanted a cup of coffee while you were waiting? Bill offers steaming cups of Mondulkiri coffee sweetened with local honey; it’s also important to know where to get the best cup of joe.

Tanya and Friend: Bananas Restaurant

There are many outstanding restaurants run by foreign gourmands who have brought their love of their national cuisine to distant shores.  Certainly big cities such as Bangkok have a wealth of these, but you will also find them in the most unlikely places.  Sen Monorom is one of the most remote towns in Cambodia, so you might be surprised to discover a restaurant like Bananas.  Coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon are just a few items on the wonderful menu served within this one-room house that doubles as a kitchen and dining room: its like having a home-cooked fine-dining meal, prepared in proprietress Tanya’s rustic country home.

Not simply owners, these people are the patrons of hospitality, providing both western standards of service and a homey atmosphere.  Well, perhaps not typical western service, as they have typically adopted a lot of the local culture, which adds a certain charm.  But they know what western guests expect to a better degree, and they add lots of personalized touches that make their place feel more like a home away from home.

One of our favorite places to stay in Ban Lung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia is the Norden House.  The Norden Houseis owned and run by Nisse Almroth, an outstanding host, providing comfortable bungalows that are the closest to the region’s premier attraction, Boeng Yak Laom, a lake inside of a dormant volcanic crater.   Nisse is also an avid off-road motorcycle enthusiast, and you can rent a bike from him to explore on your own or hire Nisse to guide you along the backcountry roads.  Plus, he serves outstanding food, including “Swedish” meatballs with mashed potatoes, gravy, and cranberry sauce, which you can wash down with a Beer Lao (another personalized touch as the beer isn’t widespread in Cambodia, let alone Ban Lung).

Norden House proprietor Nisse Almroth

Expatriate owners in foreign countries also tend to know a lot about the other communities of expats in other towns around the region.  When they travel, they also like to stay with and get to know the ‘local’ foreign business owners. In getting to know the members of this community, you become a part of this network of inspiring and interesting people.  Trying to figure out how to contact the Elephant Valley Project in Mondulkiri? Of course Bill at Middle of Somewhere can put you in touch with Jack Highwood, the founder of the project.  But you might also stumble across Jack at the Lazy Gecko in Phnom Penh: a major hub of Cambodia’s widely distributed expatriate community.  Just ask Barb or Ash and you’re on your way to a new style of travel, facilitated by the insider world of expatriate business owners; some of the best new friends you can (and should) make.

***This is the first in a series of articles featuring some of our favorite expatriate-run businesses in Southeast Asia***