Founded in 1372 and capital of Cambodia since 1866, Phnom Penh is the main gateway to the Kingdom of Cambodia: a sprawling metropolis that is both chaotic and charming, quickly developing yet still quite downtrodden.  Bustling with activity, Phnom Penh is a city on the move: never the same to visit twice, even if you arrive several times a year.

Despite its size, Phnom Penh hasn’t been overrun by hordes of tourists – that distinction belongs to Siem Reap, near the Angkor Archaeological Park.  That said, there are quite a few attractions to keep you busy for up to a week, especially if you include the many day-trip attractions.

Tuk tuk: an exhilarating way to travel!

Forty-eight hours in Phnom Penh isn’t quite enough time to see everything worthy of seeing, but most major sights are close enough to one another that you can visit most of them with relative ease, particularly if you hire the services of a tuk tuk.  These motorbike-pulled carriages can be hired for one-way trips or an entire day.  The latter plan will allow you to explore with ease, both riding between long distances and hopping off when you wish to walk: just let your driver know where you plan to go.

Day 1:
You are going to want to do some shopping, so hit the Russian Market early, when it’s not so hot, to check out the wide range of goods locals shop for in this bustling local market and pick up a few inexpensive souvenirs. Haggling over prices is the norm at Cambodian markets and the best bargains are to be had in the early morning hours when vendors believe a sale will portend a prosperous day.  Early birds may also enjoy breakfast at one of the many nearby restaurants, such as the cozy, air conditioned Café Yejj.

Next stop is the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. This former school-turned interrogation facility/prison is now a museum of the atrocities committed during the Khmer Rouge era.  Not for the faint of heart, it’s an essential stop for those who wish to understand the modern history of Cambodia.  Next, follow the tragic path of all but a handful of detainees with a ride out to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, a gut wrenching experience that is somewhat more bearable during the cooler, pre-noon hours.

For lunch, head back into town and stop at the intersection of Street 240 and Street 51. Walking east along Street 240, you will pass numerous shops and restaurants.  Many of these businesses are social enterprises, established to aid impoverished Cambodians, and patronizing them may help raise your spirits after your morning tour.  If you are struggling with jet lag, or simply enjoy a more relaxing holiday, check yourself into a spa.  Spa Bliss on Street 240 is one of the finest in the city, providing both traditional massage and more modern pampering, such as body scrubs and aromatherapy.

Wat Phnom; founding place of Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is situated at the choktomuk, the ‘four faces’ formed by the intersection of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers.  The best way to enjoy these rivers that are essential parts of Cambodian life, sign up for a sunset dinner cruise with the non-profit Kanika Restaurant-Bar or Chenla Bateau, both of which offer a more refined experience and should be booked through your hotel or at the tourist information center located at the southern end of Sisowath Quay, opposite the Royal Palace.

After your cruise, if you still have some stamina, go for a cocktail at Le Moon bar atop the Amanjaya Hotel. Serious partiers should then head back over to Street 51 to hit the legendary Heart of Darkness, Phnom Penh’s most infamous nightclub.  They’re open till sunrise, so either have your tuk tuk driver pick you up here to start your Day 2 itinerary, or perhaps get some sleep so you can enjoy the following full day of sights and activities.

Day 2:

One day two, rise early and head over to the Royal Palace, official residence of the Cambodia royal family since 1866: be sure to wear long pants or a skirt, a shirt that covers your shoulders, and closed-toe shoes (which you will be required to take on and off as you enter and exit structures within the temple grounds).  Next stop is the nearby National Museum.  The open-air museum houses the finest collection of Cambodian sculpture in the world and is a great place to visit either before or after visiting the temples of Angkor.

Jump in your tuk tuk and head over to the Central Market.  If you didn’t find what you were looking for at the Russian Market, you may find it here.  While not a market for handicrafts (its more clothing, luggage, sunglasses, etc), the market, built in 1937, is an art-deco historical landmark, worth visiting just to see and photograph.

Art deco Central Market in Phnom Penh

With a decent guidebook or map you can drive through the old French Quarter, stopping to photograph colonial architecture, including the old Railway Station.  You’re likely quite hungry, so stop for lunch at the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, both a beautiful example of French architecture from the period and a landmark of modern Cambodian history.

A short drive will bring you to Wat Phnom, the legendary site of the founding of Phnom Penh in 1373. According to legend, a wealthy widow named Penh rescued Buddhist images from a nearby river and arranged them on the hill.  The city that developed around the temple was named after the woman: Phnom Penh or ‘Penh’s hill’.  Take a leisurely stroll up the hill, keeping your eyes open for Sambo the elephant and the temple’s resident monkeys.

Your tuk tuk can then shuttle you to one of the most important Buddhist temples in the city: Wat Lanka, where Cambodian monks give meditation instruction at 6pm daily.  Wat Lanka lies just south of the Independence Monument, a fine photo-op combo, particularly just before sunset.  Need another break, the Sky Bar, overlooking the monument and temple is a late-night local hangout, but the view is amazing and worth a quick pick-me-up coffee or cocktail near sunset.

The rest of your afternoon can be continued on foot. Residents of Phnom Penh love to play in the park during the cool evening hours, playing games and performing group aerobics.  Walking east from the Independence Monument, turning north towards the Vietnam-Cambodia Friendship Monument, where colorfully illuminated fountains perform a nightly show that is accompanied by recorded music.  Follow the riverside north past the Royal Palace, mingling with locals as they enjoy the sun’s setting light, until you arrive at the FCC.  Once a legitimate Foreign Correspondents’’ Club (prior to the civil war), the FCC is now the most popular riverside sundowner bar in the city.  Watch the rush hour traffic and the bustling riverside activity as you knock back some cheap, cool beers and some tapas or wood-fired pizza.

Independence Monument is beautiful at sunset

In the evening, classical Cambodian dance, traditional Cambodian music, and shadow puppet performances can be seen at Sovannaphum Art Association on street 360. Later on, if you’re feeling lucky, Naga World, one of the most upscale hotels in town, has a modern casino and a happening nightclub called Darlin Darlin.

Day 1:

Russian Market – Corner of Streets 155 and 440; Open daily

Café Yejj – #170, Street 450, Toul Tom Pong

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum – Corner of Streets 113 and 330: Open 8:00 to 11:00am / 2:30 to 5:00pm, daily (US$2).

Choeung Ek Killing Fields – 30 minute ride outside Phnom Penh: Open 8am – 5:30pm ($3)

Spa Bliss  – House #29, Street 240: Open 9am – 9pm, daily

Kanika Restaurant-Bar – Dock near Himawari Hotel

Chenla Bateau – Titanic Boat Pier, next to Bopha Phnom Penh Restaurant

Le Moon – Amanjaya Pancam Hotel:

Heart of Darkness – Open nightly

 Day 2

Royal Palace – Sothearos Blvd, between Streets 240 and 184; Open 7:30 – 11am / 2:00 – 5:00pm

National Museum – Corner of Street 178 and Preah Ang Eng; Open 8:00am – 5:00pm, daily ($3)

Central Market – Cant miss it: Open Daily

Decent guidebook – National Geographic Traveler: Cambodia 

Railway Station – Near Corner of Monivong and Confederation de la Russie

Hotel Le Royal -  Corner of Monivong and Street 92

Wat Phnom – Intersection of Norodom and Street 92; Open daily

Wat Lanka – Southwest of Independence Monument, Sihanouk Blvd; Open daily

Independence Monument – Intersection of Sihanouk and Norodom Blvds; Open daily

Sky Bar - #90, Sihanouk Blvd., 9th floor of The Place: Open 8:00am – 1:00am

Vietnam-Cambodia Friendship Monument – Open daily

FCC – Sisowath Quay 

Sovannaphum Art Association - Performances every Friday and Saturday 7:30 – 8:30pm

Naga World – Open Daily

Darlin Darlin – At Naga World Hotel and Casino: Open nightly

Have a look at our Phnom Penh photo gallery.