road to Phu Chee Fah, Chiang Rai

Let’s make it official, shall we? Thailand is one of the world’s greatest motorcycle travel destinations. Many years and several thousand kilometers of fervent research have proved this to me, and each time I set out to plan a new trip, or review an existing one, I’m struck by the depth of experiences that a motorcycle adventure in Thailand affords.

Motorcyclists choose a riding destination for a few primary reasons:

1 –  Quality of road surface and uniqueness of the route

smooth, grey, built to please

2 – Quality of natural scenery for the motorcyclist to enjoy

3 – Services for the motorcyclist, such as hotels, restaurants, motorcycle maintenance, and of course, availability of great bikes!
4 – Non-Motorcycling activities to combine with the adventure, such as local festivals, activities and entertainment, etc.

Over the years, one of my missions has been to promote Thailand as a world-class motorcycling destination and in doing so Smiling Albino has learned to combine these four points with a degree of creativity and fun that is second to none. If you are a serious adventure traveler or motorcycle enthusiast, motorcycle travel in Thailand should be at the top of your lifetime highlight reel.

a gorgeous stretch of rte. # 1093, Chiang Rai

1 – Quality of road surface and uniqueness of the route

You can drive on smooth, clean highways in just about any country, but motorcyclists (like cyclists) know that the real magic is found on the back roads, the farm roads and national parks routes that tease the throttle and ignite the fun. Thailand is simply outstanding in this regard. With 65 million people and a land mass roughly that of France, Thailand has an extraordinary network of rural roads, national parks, and hidden corners with blacktop tarmac that are a motorcyclist’s dream. While of course there are obstructions (chickens, water buffalo, dogs, people, parades) the roadways in Thailand are motorcycle-friendly.

coffee stop on rte. #1256 in Nan

I’ve always been delighted over the years that some of the out of the way routes on provincial maps often prove to have excellent motorcycling conditions and are seldom traveled, without large truck and commercial traffic of the main highways. The provinces of Chiang Rai, Loei, Phayao, Phrae, Nan, Ubon Ratchathai, Khon Kaen, Si Saket and Mae Hong Son provide thousands of kilometers of dream routes, many seemingly light years away from traffic and commercial vehicles. In fact, just 15kms northeast of Bangkok, through the Lad Krabang shortcuts towards Prachinburi are some brilliant, curvy roads among rice fields, coconut trees and smiling locals. You don’t need to go far from the city to understand why Thailand is a great motorcycling destination.

quiet roads in Khon Kaen

Ironically, political pork-barreling over the years has accounted for some superb roads in the most unlikely of places. Who knew that far-flung corners of Si Saket, Ubon Ratchathani and Sakorn Nakorn had hundreds of kilometers of undiscovered blacktop roads? I once found a shortcut from Nong Khai towards Nakorn Phanom in Thailand’s northeast and it felt like I was the first person ever to travel on this perfect stretch of black asphalt. Over an hour of bliss, seemingly no one in sight. Thailand delights with these pleasant discoveries.

2 – Quality of scenery for the motorcyclist to enjoy

In terms of beautiful natural scenery, Thailand is blessed by mountains, rivers, forests and jungle. A primarily agricultural nation outside of the capital means that secondary roads, such as the ones linking Chachoeng Sao to Prachinburi, or Khon Kaen to Udon Thani are flanked with a green backdrop, smiling farmers, canals, and lush banana plantations on all sides.

a spectacle for locals - all part of the fun

Further afield, in less populated corners such as Nan province, or northern Phayao and Chiang Rai, you can travel for an hour without passing a village while being charmed by 2,000-meter high mountains, dense forest, and a dazzling array of twisty highland roads.

On top of this I haven’t mentioned some of the natural and man-made gems you’ll see along the way, but the

motorcycling is so good that I tend to forget about anything else. Waterfalls, glimmering temples, national parks and raging rivers abound in the far north, northeast and upper central areas of Thailand. Call them coffee stops, or photo opp’s, they’re a great reason to pull over and marvel at where you are and become a temporary celebrity for curious locals. Khao Yai National Park, for instance, is Thailand’s oldest and 2nd largest park. Established in 1962, the smooth road through Khao Yai National Park is a favourite amongst motorcyclists with a backdrop of evergreen forests and grasslands, as well as nearly 70 species of mammals.

900-year old ruins discovered on two wheels

Thematically, you can design a motorcycle expedition based on some of these local phenomena. Smiling Albino once designed a trip called ‘The Angkor Road’, which loosely traces the ancient thoroughfare of historic stone ruins from Central Thailand along southern Isaan’s border with Cambodia all the way to the Emerald Triangle in Ubon across the Mekong River from Laos.

Along the way we visit 900-year old Khmer ruins that rival many of those seen at Angkor, such as Prasat Pimai, Phnom Rung, Prasat Muang Tam, and some lovely hidden gems like Sikhoraphum, Prasat Phnom Wan, Prasat Phum Pon, among others. It is true that some of the most magnificent Khmer ruins arewithin Thailand’s borders.  This route also passes through some of the more surreal landmarks of south Isaan, such as the legendary bottle temple in Si Saket, constructed from thousands of discarded beer, whiskey and soda bottles.

As befitting a motorcycle trip, this route also makes a serious attempt at musical exposure – especially the north eastern Thai phenomenon of maw lam, an almost hypnotic folk rock-a-billy rhythmic event worth the trip itself. This kind of music is often played in wooden “roadhouse”-type establishments throughout the north and northeast. For some reason, this energetic nighttime country vibe in Thailand goes hand-in-throttle with rural motorcycle discovery.

charming Chiang Khan, Loei, a Mekong gem

Another route, for those needing more reasons that just the riding, would be to follow the mighty Mekong River from one of its northern points, such as Loei or Nong Khai province, eastward and then south beyond Nakorn Phanom,

Mukhdahan, Ubon Ratchathani and then bid the river farewell as it crosses Thailand for the last time and disappears into to Laos-Cambodia border. This is a beautiful 500-kilometer stretch of road that takes the rider through some of Thailand’s most charming riverside towns, some still in their original wooden store-front state, like Chiang Khan in Loei, or Khong Jiam in Ubon.

the amazing rte. #1155 to Wiang Kaen, Chiang Rai - iPhone shot while riding

After traveling to nearly 40 countries, I can attest that Thailand’s top rides compete with the finest roads anywhere on earth.  The most spectacular routes in Thailand are the high roads around Phu Chee Fah, Chiang Rai, Bo Klua, Nan, Phu Luang, Loei as well as Doi Mae Salong and Doi Angkhang in the far north. These road-runner, cartoon-like roads simply delight the motorcyclist (or van support riders!) with absolutely stunning mountain vistas and lush nature. This is the Thailand we buy in postcards, and this is the Thailand we promote to our friends, and this is the Thailand we wish to preserve. Cruise through it on two-wheels and it rekindles a love affair with a destination born to please. There are fewer finer stretches of road on the planet than the 80-kilomter dream path above the clouds from Song Kwae, Nan, to Chiang

Kham, Phayao, or the mountain top stretch from Wang Saphung, Loei towards Lom Sak, Petchabun. Far from the known tourist trails, clearly, these roads were designed by motorcyclists!  There are thankfully far more curves, twists and dips than would appear necessary. It is pure riding bliss and I challenge anyone to find finer roads anywhere.

3 – Services for the motorcyclist, such as hotels, restaurants, motorcycle maintenance, and of course, availability of great bikes!

Above all, this is where Thailand really sets itself apart as a supreme motorcycling destination. Whether a 90-kilometer ride, or a 300-kilometer big day on big bikes, Thailand is filled with hidden gems and boutique resorts to connect the dots of the journey. On recent trips we’ve stayed in a private royal villa on the banks of the Mekong River, to luxury golf resorts such as Kirimaya Resort in Khao Yai, to charming rural properties like Bo Klua View Resort in Nan, or the wonderful Phu Pha Nam  in Loei. These properties are located along some of the nicest roads in Thailand, and arriving on two wheels brings something uniquely enchanting to the stay. Do a few day rides and stay a little longer. This is the Thailand I hope never changes.

coffee break for Harley, Kawasaki, Ducati and friends

There are great services for the visitor and the resident alike on a Thailand Motorcycle trip. We partner with private motorcycle clubs such as our good friends at Siam Wheels, as well as reputable sources to hire out bikes on short term trips such as Joes Bikes in Chiang Mai, Big Cycle in Udon,  ST Motorcycle in Chiang Rai, Bangkok Bikes and several in between.

An excellent source for general knowledge on riding in Thailand and the region can be found at GT Rider, and there are outstanding maps of every corner of Thailand, such as the Roadways Group of rural maps, and of course the groovy folks at Groovy Map, and the well-detailed PN Maps.

We have spent some time compiling a list of reputable mechanics in places as far away as Surin, Nong Bualampu, Phayao, Buriram, and Nong Khai, and it might surprise you that you can get some Ducati service in Ubon Ratchathani, or tune up a Harley-Davidson in Udon Thani. This is a motorcycling country, albeit usually on much smaller bikes (typically 100cc scooters), but nevertheless the services are out there if you look in the right places. We’ve transported motorcycles on trains, boats and trucks in order to start and end the trip just at the right place, Just at the right moment. Better yet, bring a mechanic and bike support team along with you and ride in style.

fueled and ready for the ride south from Nong Khai

What bike to ride?  One of my favourites of late is the Kawasaki 650cc ER-6n. This is an outstanding bike for motorcycle touring in Thailand. Nimble, responsive, and great in a variety of weather and road conditions, the ER-6n is ideal for any road ride in the kingdom.

That said, different routes require different bikes, and the long, winding roads of Isaan are a delight on large bikes such as Harley-Davidson’s. Smiling Albino teams up with Siam Wheels to offer the only completely customized, high-end motorcycle touring to offer a wide variety of motorcycles ranging from Ducati, Harley-Davidson, Triumph, Kawasaki, BMW, Hayabusa, Yamaha and more. There is something thematic about cruising through Thailand’s “wild east” in Isaan on a chopper. Jack Nicholson and Peter Fonda would agree, and the nighttime music vibe will lure you back again and again.

4 – Non-Motorcycle Activities

golf at Santiburi - Northern Thailand motorcyle trip

Plan a motorcycle trip with a bit of whimsical adventure in mind. Recently we took a group of eight riders in Nan Province white-water rafting as part of the trip, and the year before on a private elephant polo session in Surin, or wine tasting in Loei at one of Thailand’s emerging vineyards, and of course a great round of golf here and there. With some planning, you can accomplish all of these things in a single trip (well, maybe not the elephant polo).

On some routes such as heading back from lower Isaan or south towards Pattaya, the mountains meet the ocean through a series of back roads, and you can jump from motorcycles to a golf course, and then to a private catamaran for a sunset cruise and BBQ all in a single afternoon. Logistics need some finesse, but the costs would be a fraction of trying the same trio of experiences in California, Australia, or Europe. The experience is priceless.

great at all angles - motorcycling in Thailand

High-quality motorcycle touring can and should be combined with cultural interaction, and a true appreciation for a region and its people.  From Khmer ruins to the unique food and music throughout Isaan, to Thailand’s indigenous mountain peoples in the north, to the various cultural styles of the Lanna, Thai-Laos, and Thai-Shan regions of Thailand’s border regions. There is a mosaic of cultural discovery beneath the road map. Strap on a helmet and go find it!

Each year we host 3-4 motorcycle trips ranging from 5-10 riders, and we continue to set the standard for exotic, high-value motorcycle adventuring. More than just great roads, funky restaurants, or a fun music pub, we try to weave it all together into a series of experiences that propel the motorcycle adventurer into an experience of a lifetime. Thailand was made for motorcycling.  Get out there on two wheels and discover it!

Here’s a fun motorcycle video of one of our trips a couple years ago:  http://www.youtube.com/user/SmilingAlbinoLtd#p/u/23/l1JYSL8OueM

Here are some assorted images of motorcycle touring in Thailand.

suiting up in front of Phu Kha Nan Fah Hotel

crusing along the Mekong, Loei

back roads into Nan

easy rider towns in Isaan

the thrill-seeking #1148 into Phayao

curvey roads linking Phayao and Chiang Rai

Justin Dunne with Bed Supperclub

What is Bed Supperclub?

It’s a destination that combines elements of an entertainment venue, a restaurant and a bar where people meet people, exchange ideas, absorb positive vibes, watch great bands, and enjoy innovative food and music. Our goal is to deliver a totally unique Bangkok experience.

What was the dining and club seen like in Bangkok when Bed opened?

It has changed a lot. It’s still becoming a very challenging market, just because of everything that happened in the past 8 and half years, like the bird flu and the revolution. You see a lot of competition has died off. It’s like the clubs, the multi-million dollar club over here 3 years ago. Our location on Soi 11 is very advantageous. We are easy to get to.

Our location is close to Q Bar, a well-known club right around the corner. So the area around Bed Supperclub has become known as a destination in itself.

Nightclubs come and go.  How do you guys continue to be relevant? 

Bed Supperclub

We have a very strong core group with a tremendous love and support for creativity and the arts. Bed is a very supportive environment and we’re willing to take risks and do something that is a little bit weird or bizarre.

Bed Supper Club offers fantastic food combined with theatrical performances, from Brazilian Jumbo Dances to interpretations of Yoko Ono art. How does the crowd respond?

It’s been very positive and supportive for the past 8 and half years. We do different forms of entertainment; we take risks and see where it goes, even if our performances evoke a bit of a silence in the room.

In the restaurant we see local expats, who are strong supporters, as well as tourists and a lot of well to-do local Thais. This merger of locals and Westerners has really been the secret of keeping things going.

Increasingly, tourists come to Bed Supperclub to do more locally influenced things. They want to see something that will give them a unique, cosmopolitan Thai experience that they cannot really find in the guidebook.

White Room at Bed Supperclub

Bed attracts a range of guests, from families with 19-21 year old kids to older couples and flashy Italian tourists– a very diverse crowd. What is the market you are going for?

We look for people seeking a destination experience, something that is planned ahead of time. We are not looking for guys walking down the street who spontaneously think, “oh, let’s check this place out.”

There are a lot of misconceptions about Bangkok, such as it’s a “guys’ town”, or everything is “backpack.” In truth, there are a number of wonderful world-class things here, everything from nightclubs to restaurants to destinations. We want people who have been to finest destinations throughout the world and want to make this one of those experiences.

We take our beach vacations very seriously

Beach, sun, sea and sand. A lot of people come to Southeast Asia and at the end of their trip they want a few days, or a week, or even more on a great beach or a great island. But even though choosing a beach hotel is easy, choosing one that is going to make you happy and satisfy all your needs is something completely different. There’s a lot more to consider.

What are the most important things to consider when you’re planning your beach vacation?

There are many factors in planning a beach vacation. First, ask yourself “what do I really want out of this vacation?” Is it important to you to be completely away from other people and not see other tourists? Do you want to stroll and shop in the night market or eat at a mom and pop shop? Do you want to go to a nightclub? Do you want active sports like rock climbing and paddling? Or, do you want to sit in your resort, never leave the beach and read a book?

Identify the three or four most important things that you need. Also identify a couple of things that you’re willing to give up. If you know what you truly want, it makes planning much easier.

Be realistic. One important factor is time and logistics, to and from your beach resort. Too often, people go on vacation and try to do too much. Location is important; every time you move anywhere, you can lose half a day.

Romantic night at the beach

Koh Phi Phi, for example, is a beautiful island in the southwest Gulf of Thailand. It’s gorgeous, but you’re looking at a lot of travel, from getting to the pier and a couple of hours in the boat getting there. It’s a full day. The boat ride is beautiful, but it eats up your valuable beach time. So if you’ve got only three nights for your beach vacation, stick to somewhere closer and easy to access.

Allow sufficient time for getting to and from your beach location. Taking taxis or checking out of your hotel in the city is tiring. Traveling to the beach from a major city means checking in at the airport, going through security all before you get on a one-hour flight. So consider the travel time and be realistic with yourself.

Although Southeast Asia has many world-class beaches, Thailand offers unique beach vacation options that are easily accessible. There are many islands across Southeast Asia that you reach after spending twelve hours on a slow boat and no one else will be there. But in Thailand you can be in Phuket, Koh Samui or Koh Samet in a couple hours, leaving Bangkok in the morning and relaxing in a tropical paradise by early afternoon.

What are the primary differences between Phuket, Koh Samui, and Koh Samet?

Wong Duan Beach in chill-out Koh Samet

Koh Samet is small and sleepy. There are no high-rise buildings. It’s the driest island in Thailand. It’s kind of funky, Bohemian, a lot of little family run hotels and resorts. Koh Samet is also very close to Bangkok and can be reached in about three and a half hours by private car and boat from Bangkok. Samet is very family friendly.

Koh Samui is a world-class beach destination right in the Gulf of Thailand. It’s a quick flight from Bangkok, under an hour. Airlines like Bangkok Airways and Thai Airways fly there, and there are some direct flights from Hong Kong, Singapore and maybe as far as Europe.

Samui started to hit the map maybe 20 years ago and now you have everything from little backpacker bungalows that are $5 – $10 a night to world class brands like the Four Seasons, Sala (which is an original brand) and Six Senses and W just opened a resort.

A lot of people want to be in Koh Samui but are afraid of being overrun by tourists. The reality, though, is there are many superb resorts on Samui, which are far away from the crowds. If you do want to be close to the action, you can do that at Samui as well since it’s an island with variety.

Phuket is Thailand’s biggest and most famous island. It’s best known for its beaches and is quite a big place with a variety of places to stay, things to do and abundant nightlife with fine restaurants and everything in between.

What are the best times of year to visit these islands?

feeding fish in Krabi in the far south

It’s important to consider the weather. In Southern Thailand, there’s a narrow strip of land that runs North to South; on the East side is the Gulf of Thailand, where the weather is much different than the West side, in the Andaman Sea. So in places like Phuket or Krabi in the far Southwest, the weather can be totally different to a place like Koh Samui, which has is a nice dry season in July and August.

Most people arrive for beach vacations in December and January, when the weather in Thailand is phenomenal. Yet, we host many family trips in June, July and August, and honeymooners travel with us in April and May.

Although Thai rainy season runs through July and August, there are a couple of islands in the Gulf, like Samui and Samet that have fantastic weather. Samui is ideal around October and November when the rest of the country is drying out. Samet is the driest island in Thailand and the weather is consistent year round.

What should you consider when choosing a resort?

The guest mix of a resort can make or break a vacation. If you’re a couple seeking a quite, romantic vacation, you probably don’t want to be around a bunch of families. Conversely, families probably don’t want to be next to couples kissing and cuddling all day at the beach.

Research the particular tastes and clientele that resorts cater to. Families? Honeymooners? Gay travelers? Figure out the demographic of that hotel.

Evason Phuket - dramatic welcome

On a final note, choose hotels based on how much time you’ll actually spend at the hotel. In Thailand and in other areas in Southeast Asia, there are many ultra luxury resorts. But, unless you’ve got money to burn, why spend all that money if you don’t plan on enjoying the actual room and the resort amenities?

Baan Sang, Prachinburi

Often people say that they remember traveling in Thailand when it was still “new” and “undiscovered” (like the 16^th Century?). Well, it’s still possible to recapture the romance of an undiscovered Thailand that most people claim is gone, and this region starts a mere couple of hours into the countryside from Bangkok.

Thailand’s northeast, or Isaan, is the least visited region of Thailand. Why Isaan?  First, do the math: Isaan has over 20 million people and only 3 major airports. This means an amazing network of roads for ground travel, meaning you can get anywhere using a variety of routes absent mass tourism facilities like Chiang Mai, Phuket, or Ko Samui.

Isaan is ideal for the motorcyclist, for example, seeking a quieter, longer journey towards the sunset. In addition, Isaan is outstanding for older travelers who’d rather avoid the crowds but still seek deeper cultural and historical elements to their holiday. From Khmer ruins to bountiful rivers and nature walks, to the heartland of Thai traditional silk making, textiles, pottery and agriculture, Isaan boasts a treasure trove of discovery for those willing to seek it out.

Isaan borders Laos to the north and east, and then Cambodia to the south. In this part of Thailand lies the core of the country’s musical and culinary identity. Analogous in those terms to the American deep south and Mississippi delta, Isaan and the muddy Mekong make a great case for deep roots travel in Thailand!

Mostly, however, it is the warmth of the people, the innocent curiosity that is harder to find in places like Bangkok or Chiang Mai that visitors remember. You can spend days driving from small town to small town in Isaan and always find those famous big smiles, curious questions, and general concern that means the world to a traveler in a new locale.

Monks at Buriram's Prasat Phnom Rung

Traveling through Isaan makes you appreciate the joys that the early tourists to Thailand in the 1980’s felt.  Here, in no specific order are the reasons you should visit Isaan and fall in love with Thailand all over again:

The Mountains of Loei Province delivers everything Chiang Mai has, less the tourists and some temples. Verdant forests, brilliant hiking, one of the nicest stretches of road along the Mekong, and charming towns like Chiang Khan, Pak Chom and the spirit festival town of Dan Sai.

This is also some of the finest motorcycling in Thailand and also one of the coolest places in Thailand as well. I’ve shivered in August – a welcome relief from the rest of the country.

Loei has no functioning airport, so access is made from either Udon Thani, or Petchabun. Loei is one of the most densely forested provinces in Thailand and also has a well-regarded winery near Dan Sai called Chateau de Loei. There are also a number of great hotel choices, like Phu Pha Nam (http://www.phuphanamresort.com/), Phu Na Come (http://www.phunacomeresort.com/), the stunning Mekong Villas and unique finds like Chachanat Woodland Retreat (one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Thailand!) http://www.chachanatwoodland.com/ and Agalin http://www.agalin.com/

Small Town Thai charm

Isaan is the land of unique characters, wooden buildings and dusty roads. In only a couple of hours from Bangkok you can find yourself surrounded by small streets and wooden shop houses as if it were the backdrop of a Thai cowboy film. Small towns often offer clean guesthouses, and more popular places like Chiang Khan, Nong Khai, and Khong Jiam, to name a few, offer a superb variety of accommodations.

Charmsville, Thailand (a.k.a Chiang Khan, Loei)

The Musical Side of Thailand – Country music bars: this is the real deal in Isaan where music is as deep as religion. Isaan music, particularly “maw laam”, has a hypnotic rhythm that makes for a fun night out. Sprinkling some “music for life” or pua cheewit into the mix absolutely means you’ll have fun in the small towns of Isaan.

There are several towns with a great music scene, particularly Nong Khai, Khon Kaen and Surin. One could wax euphoric on the merits of taking in this spectacle, but an evening spent taking in the sounds and energy at a Thai country music bar will remind us of so many of the reasons we love Thailand. People, music, energy, laughter, food and a universal sense of sanuk (Thai for fun). Westerners sincerely welcome!

Hot Tip: for a great dose of real Isaan music, hit the Pleang Pin wooden restaurant outside Khon Kaen on Saturday nights!

The Khmer influence – history runs deep in Isaan with hundreds of monuments and ruins scattered along a route referred to as the ‘Angkor Road’. The southern part of Isaan is accessible from Bangkok by car or motorcycle in a few hours, and boasts spectacular culture and history to spice up a visit to this sleepy part of Thailand.

Khmer ruins at Prasat Phnom Wan, Khorat

The famous sites like Pimai and Phanom Rung rank as some of the finest Khmer ruins anywhere, but it is also lesser known gems like Prasat Phnom Wan in Khorat Province, or Prasat Muang Tam in Buriram that are equally appealing. Best of all, you’ll have these ruins virtually to yourself.

There are dozens of opportunities to veer off the main roads and be pleasantly impressed by a dilapidating 12^th Century Khmer ruin in the middle of a rice field. These discoveries are part of the charm of Isaan. Southern Isaan has some spectacular – and seldom visited – historical relics that rank with some of the best in Cambodia.

Greatest Drives – Political peddling has had some positive affects in recent years: namely some superb black-top roads in the most unlikely of places, opening up many afternoons of adventure on two wheels in mountainous regions like Loei or southern Si Saket and Ubon provinces. These are roads where you’re unlikely to find western tourists, and almost guaranteed to be off the tour bus trail.

Whether on two wheels or with the family on a sight-seeing trip, here are some classic routes:

1 – The Ubolrat Dam road north of Khon Kaen towards Nong Bua Lampoo. One of the largest dams in Thailand and a brilliant curvy road hugs alongside for 60+km.

Curvy road along the Mekong in Nong Khai province

2 – Loei – the long route through the Phu Luang Mountain Range is stunning – and the road is one of the best motorcycling (or biking) routes in Thailand. This ranks with anything in Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son or Chiang Rai. Best of all – you’ll have it nearly all to yourself!

3 – The elevated rural road south of the Phu Tok Temple (worth a visit itself) all the way down through Sri Songkram and emptying out in Nakorn Phanom. If you have the time – and can handle a night of duller accommodations in Nakorn Phanom – this is a great country ride. Spotless road, great reservoir views, and quaint towns with good food along the way. The real Thailand, baby!

4 – Driving east toward Laos along the Thai-Cambodia border in Si Saket and Ubon provinces – this is gorgeous forested highway and very few cars in sight. Great for connecting temple dots of Phanom Rung, Wat Kuat, and Phrea Vihear.

Great places to stay:

Phu Pha Nam - http://www.phuphanamresort.com/

Suppaniggha Khon Kaen – http://www.supannigahome.com/

Sedhapura Khong Jiam, Ubon – http://www.tohsang.com/sedhapura/eng/home.php

Chachanat Woodland Retreat (one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Thailand!) - http://www.chachanatwoodland.com/

Gecko Villa – http://www.thaivillarent.com/

Wat Kuat (Bottle Temple) in Khun Harn, Si Saket province

Lastly, Isaan makes you feel like a traveler again. Meaning, you won’t be negotiating at a tourist café, or trying to choose best times of day to visit local attractions for the simple reason that virtually no one visits Isaan! With mountains and rivers and food and music, this is the Thailand most people think is gone. Lucky for us, there’s plenty of Isaan still to be discovered!

Bayon crowd at 9:30am

Guidebooks are replete with photographs of Cambodia’s majestic temples, including the iconic spires of Angkor Wat and smiling face-towers of Bayon. Enchanted by these images, people travel to Cambodia hoping for an exotic and perhaps spiritual experience with spectacular photographs as souvenirs of their adventure.

However, so popular are the temples nowadays that it can be disappointing to share them with thousands of other visitors, particularly if you are hoping to get photographs without jockeying for position or waiting for crowds to allow for an unobstructed view. At some of the most popular temples it can even be difficult to walk around without literally bumping into other visitors, effectively ruining the atmosphere of these otherwise sacred and serene monuments.

That said, while it is nearly impossible to completely avoid other visitors, some insight and proper planning can make a huge difference in both your experience and the photos you capture. Combining my experience as a guidebook writer and applying it to the spirit of Smiling Albino, here are some insider tips on how to get the best (and most intimate) experience and photos at the amazing Angkor Archaeological Park.

Angkor Wat: Avoid at sunrise: Best at lunchtime and sunset

No visit to Angkor Archaeological Park is complete without a visit to Angkor Wat.  In fact, most visitors make a beeline for the temple to catch the sunrise at this star attraction.

While a photo of the temple’s silhouette against a pink and purple dawn sky is fantastic, nearly everyone visiting the park will be joining you; once the sun has risen behind the temple, Angkor Wat is overrun with visitors.

Angkor’s Lunch Break:

During the lunch hour (11:30 – 1pm) most visitors depart for a shady restaurant to escape Cambodia’s punishing afternoon sun.  Fortunately, many of Angkor Wat’s attractions are indoors.

Bring an umbrella for the walk along the causeway into the temple, and once inside, you can stroll around the Hall of Buddhas and spectacular galleries of mural carvings in the shade, at a time when there are very few other visitors in the temple.

Sunset from Angkor: 

Ta Reach Vishnu at Angkor Wat

If you arrive around 5pm, the heat is less intense and most visitors are off watching the sunset elsewhere (particularly Bakheng, which should be avoided at this hour).  In addition to visiting Angkor Wat during the cooler evening hours when there are far fewer visitors, west-facing Angkor Wat is best photographed with the setting sun illuminating it.  The five sandstone spires of the Bakan change color as the light fades, the Ta Reach Vishnu in the west gopurais brilliant in the waning sunlight, and there are great photo opportunities of the sunset reflected in the moat.

Perhaps the best reason to go at sunset is an opportunity for a private tour of the uppermost chambers of the Bakan; while technically ‘closed’ after 5pm, the Bakan is frequently accessible with some friendly negotiation and is arguably the best vantage point in all Angkor Park to see the sunset.

If you are fortunate enough to have an escort from Smiling Albino staff, a glass of champagne as the sun is setting is the ultimate way to end an epic day.

Bayon: Avoid most of the day: Best to visit at first light

Instead of joining the masses at Angkor Wat, start your day at Bayon.  Bayon temple is simply spectacular, but it is relatively small and once crowded it’s busier than Bangkok’s weekend market (which is also best just after it opens).

Fortunately, very few people visit Bayon first thing in the morning and you can explore the gallery murals and the face-towers on the upper platform in solitude, taking photos at your leisure.  Plan to leave the temple around 7 or 8am, just as the masses are arriving; much of the sunrise crowd at Angkor Wat moves on to Bayon as soon as the sun has risen.

Other temples: Get there first, do it backwards, or head off the beaten path

Aside from Angkor Wat, getting to a temple first is always a great strategy.  With a three-day pass you can experience two other spectacular temples by yourself (in addition to Bayon) if you head out early enough.

Being the first (and often only) person to ascend Bakong, the oldest pyramidal state temple of the Angkor era at the Roluos Temple group, is an amazing experience. Ta Phrom, famed for the trees growing upon the temple walls, offers many great photo opportunities, but hosts too many tour busses throughout the entire day.

A glass of champagne is a way to wrap up your day

Banteay Srei, 15 miles/ 25 km northeast of Angkor, is another top attraction that is swarmed early and difficult to visit in the midday sun.  Plan to arrive at Banteay Srei before others as the miniature temple gets crowded quickly; it may even be possible to get there first after ascending the steep stairway to Phnom Bok temple for sunrise if you start your day early enough.

Doing it backwards, simply means visiting the sunset temples at sunrise and vice-versa.  Bakheng, the pyramid perched atop the lone hill in Angkor Park, is the most famous sunset attraction, but it is infinitely more enjoyable first thing in the morning.

If you can’t catch a sunrise here (as the mornings of a three day pass are best begun with Bayon, Ta Phrom, and perhaps Bakong or Banteay Srei) there are still few visitors climbing the Bakheng hill around 7 or 8 am, after your early morning at Bayon.

Finally, there are many other temples that few other visitors ever visit; while less spectacular than Angkor Wat or even Ta Phrom, they are magical places, particularly when there are absolutely no other visitors in earshot or sight.

Ta Nei, which lies in the forest just north of Ta Keo, is the most accessible of these ‘off the beaten path’ attractions.  While almost at the center of the park, few visitors even know of the temple’s existence, let alone make the 10-minute trek through the forest to find it.

Ta Nei is still in a state of great disrepair, but clambering over the rubble within the inner-sanctuary, particularly when there are no other visitors around, is the closest thing to living out your Indiana Jones/Lara Croft fantasies without traveling to temples in the more remote areas of Cambodia.  (If you are looking for a bit more adventure, Beng Mealea and Koh Ker are becoming increasingly accessible as Cambodian roads improve; if you would like to make a day-trip from Siem Reap to these amazing attractions before they become as popular as the temples within the park, the best time to visit is now!)

Finally, for the serious photo enthusiast, while the aforementioned guidelines will help you capture photos with far fewer human obstructions and generally better lighting conditions, nothing can really replace the advice and assistance of those who have extensive knowledge of the park and professional experience capturing images of the temples.

If you are looking for frame-worthy blow-up photographs, a late-light photo session with Siem Reap-based photographer Loven Ramos at lesser-known sites such as Wat Athvea can really help your photos shine.  Even attempting to capture the best photo-ops at Angkor Wat in the hour or so of setting sunlight is greatly assisted by knowing which location to be at in the temple at the right time to utilize the right light.

Trevor Ranges is a Bangkok-based travel writer whose work includes the National Geographic Traveler: Cambodia guidebook.  He is currently working with Smiling Albino as a Project Coordinator. 

Songkran party guys

Imagine you have booked a beachfront room at a hotel in Thailand online. You’ve paid in advance and communicated your arrival details, and once you arrive to check-in, you find that the hotel is full.

As compensation, the hotel agrees to book you into another similar hotel nearby. But not on the beach. Even worse, it costs twice as much!

You demand that the hotel cover the difference. After all, it’s their mistake! But the smiling hotel manager, and then the supervisor, simply say that you have to pay the additional cost yourself. You begin to lose your temper. You firmly make your case, but to no avail.

No matter what you say, or how upset you get, or how often you appeal to yet another person higher up the chain of command, the front desk staff simply smile during the entire experience.

Thailand has long been referred to as ‘The Land of Smiles’ by visitors. But many westerners have become perplexed, even infuriated, at Thais’ ability to smile through virtually every situation, however maddening, unusual or inappropriate.

Thais smile for more than happiness and glee. Thais, perhaps more than any other people, have an uncanny knack of smiling in instances of adversity, tension and even danger. Thais seem to smile at unusual times during conversations and business dealings.

Thai kids smile

In Thailand smiling is a form of subtle interpersonal-messaging which runs deeper and perhaps more accurately than language or syntax. In Thailand, there is actually a smile referred to as the “Yes, I know I owe you the money but I don’t have it right now.”

I’ve learned that there are actually 13 different types of smiles where most Thais can identify a specific meaning. In fact, most Thais can perform each of these smiles upon request with flawless accuracy based solely on the commonly used name.

According to Working With The Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand, the ‘top 13’ identified Thai smiles are:

1. Yim thang nam taa: The “I’m so happy I’m crying” smile.

2. Yim thak thaai: The “polite” smile for someone you barely know.

3. Yim cheun chom: The “I admire you” smile.

4. Fuen Yim: The stiff smile, also known as the “I should laugh at the joke though it’s not funny” Smile.

5. Yim mee lessanai: The smile which masks something wicked in your mind.

6. Yim yaw: The teasing, or “I told you so” smile.

7. Yim yae-yae: The “I know things look pretty bad but there’s no point in crying over spilt milk” smile.

8. Yim sao: The sad smile.

9. Yim haeng: The dry smile, also known as the “I know I owe you the money but I don’t have it” smile.

10. Yim thak thaan: The “I disagree with you” smile, also known as the “You can go ahead and propose it but your idea’s no good” smile.

11. Yim cheua-cheuan: The “I am the winner” smile, the smile given to a losing competitor.

12. Yim soo: “smiling in the face of an impossible struggle” smile.

13. Yim mai awk: The “I’m trying to smile but can’t” smile.

14. Yim som tam: The “Waiter, there’s a dead crab in my salad!” smile. (ok, this one was completely made up. But I’m sure I’ve given it myself a few times…).

One story illustrating the influence of smiling in Thai culture runs back to the political turmoil of the 1980’s. The Thai Prime Minister at the time, Gen. Prem Tinsulanond, was confronted by a swarm of journalists demanding answers about the government’s handling of domestic issues.

Rather than answer the questions directly, Gen. Prem buffered several questions by displaying a series of smiles for the perplexed media.

Thai villager friendly smile

Thailand lives up to its namesake as ‘The Land of Smiles’. In the end, the culture of smiling does appear to allow for a more easy-going society, like when a Bangkok cabbie bumps into a car at a traffic light and all parties discuss the situation with cheeky grins, or a screaming child in a movie theatre elicits only smiles from nearby viewers (instead of annoyed eye-dagger glares) that we might expect in the west.

So, next time you step on a Thai’s foot in a crowded mall and the victim responds gleefully, remember that a Thai smile is often not what it seems. As Thais and longtime ex-pats will tell you, a smile may have a thousand meanings. The smile may even be on you!

Christmas in Bangkok (image from bangkok.com)

One of the most fascinating places to experience the holiday season is Southeast Asia. Why would anyone celebrate a traditional Christian holiday in a Buddhist country like Thailand or Vietnam? Because there’s something entirely unique, transformative and memorable about experiencing one of your most nostalgic traditions in a foreign environment.

If you’ve ever found the holidays too predictable at home, spending them in SE Asia will inject an element of surprise. Not only can you enjoy all the traditional holiday perks (lavish dinners, camaraderie, shopping, and New Year’s parties), you’ll blend a range of experiences, from temple visits, tropical beaches, to cosmopolitan excursions while basking in some of the finest weather that SE Asia offers all year round.

Christmas Celebrations

SE Asia is primarily Buddhist, but you don’t have to lose the holiday experience altogether. In December, you’ll see no shortage of smiling Santas in stores (or, elephants wearing Santa hats in the streets!) brightly lit Christmas trees, kids dressed in red and white and plenty of options for a traditional Christmas dinner.

Elephant in Santa suit (image from cnngo.com)

Christmas Day is not a public holiday in most SE Asia countries, but there are plenty of places to enjoy Christmas in the company of others. You can observe religious traditions in cities like Bangkok, Vietnam and Hanoi and there are plenty of churches holding mass, including St. Francis Xavier Church (Bangkok), St. John Catholic Church (Siem Reap) and Notre Dame Cathedral (Saigon).

Across SE Asia, Christmas gatherings are everywhere, offering an intimate and fun time meeting friends while enjoying great food and drink. Spending a long, leisurely Christmas Day afternoon or evening in the company of local expats is a fun way to connect with people all over the world coming together to enjoy a spirit of fraternity during this special time.

Whether you’re in Bangkok, Chiang Mai or Siem Reap, consider spending Christmas Day in a traditional English pub offering traditional Christmas feasts in an intimate, cozy environment. Some of our favorite pubs for enjoying the holidays include The Londoner and The Dubliner (in Bangkok), Le PUB (in Saigon) and Molly Malones (in Siem Reap).

Rex Hotel in Saigon (image from tripadvisor.com)

If you’d like to celebrate Christmas Day in fine style, there are plenty of options throughout SE Asia to enjoy an upscale holiday. Top hotels through SE Asia offer five star brunches and holiday dinners, complete with a traditional holiday atmosphere and visits from Santa. Of note are The Mandarin Oriental (Bangkok, Chiang Mai), or the Four Seasons Resort (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Ko Samui), Hotel de la Paix (Siem Reap) and Hotel Rex (Saigon).

In Saigon, Christmas is widely celebrated, including Midnight Mass at the city’s Catholic churches on Christmas Eve. You can enjoy many world class food, drink and revelry at many of Saigon’s top hotels, replete with traditional buffet dinners, games, musical performances and holiday choirs.  Two hundred kilometers east of Saigon, Phan Thiet’s Catholic communities deck the town with lights, decorations, Christmas trees, reindeer and Santa Claus.

Dining and performance at Angkor Wat (image from angkorhotels.org)

Consider Christmas dinner at a local Asian establishment. In small towns in Northern Thailand and Vietnam, we’ve special ordered Thai-Chinese Christmas dinners at Thai-Chinese restaurants, which is a unique twist on traditional holiday feasts. Throw in some karaoke and you’ll have fun blending east and west!

Christmas in Pattaya, Thailand (image from traveldealsfinder.com)

In SE Asia, take advantage of the great weather and include family-friendly outdoor activities, such as hiking, biking, paddling, walking trips and a bit of adventure on scooters and yachts. In Bangkok, beat the heat at Esplanade’s Sub Zero ice skating rink, including a nightclub and karoke in a chilled out environment, or take the kids to Dream World amusement park and play around in the indoor snow room.

There are numerous opportunities to volunteer while visiting the region. Visit an orphanage and give some gifts to local children, or spend a half-day care-giving, playing games or having fun at a local NGO. Spread the holiday spirit beyond your own shores and make it part of your SE Asia holiday.

If you feel that your holiday is not complete without shopping, you’re in luck! World class shopping options abound, and cities like Bangkok and Saigon have tons of world class shopping options to ensure you find everything for holiday giving, from simple local handicrafts, toys, clothes to top flight luxury goods.

New Years Eve

New Year's Eve at Bed Supperclub

Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam party with gusto and New Years eve is a blast all over SE Asia! New Years evokes a global, universal energy you’ll find everywhere, regardless of whether your visiting a big city or a small village. Enjoy the New Years holiday by hanging out and partying with locals, either in high style, or at the grassroots.

In Bangkok, there are a few large public New Year’s parties, including CentralWorld Square, the biggest countdown event in Bangkok, and many lively parties ring in the New Year on the island getaway of Ko Samui. in Saigon check out the Renaissance Riverside Hotel (in District One), a popular place for year-end parties.

You can enjoy a more refined New Years experience at Bangkok’s Sirocco, the world’s highest al fresco restaurant, located on the 63rd floor of The Dome at lebua, or Vertigo and Moon Bar, at the Banyan Tree Hotel, for rooftop dining and a world-class ultra New Year event.

How to Beat the Crowds

Christmas Day hike with Canadian families

The holiday season in the West coincides with the traditional ‘high’ season in SE Asia. This means that hotel prices tend to rise, and crowds can be a problem in popular tourist areas. The best strategy is planning early, ideally no later than September, to avoid booked hotels while ensuring the best experience.

To avoid crowds, opt for less popular destinations. In Thailand, for example, consider Chiang Rai over Chiang Mai in the North, or pick smaller islands like Ko Samet or Ko Lanta (compared to Phuket or Ko Samui). In Vietnam, spend time in more rural areas like Dalat, rather than Hoi An and Hanoi.

If you’re visiting Angkor Wat, work with a well-organized ground team to avoid holiday crowds. This is a time to splurge on visiting remote temples like Bang Malea and Ko Ker, which receive less tourists during high season. If you have a larger budget, charter a helicopter and gourmet picnic in the temple area.

The key for enjoying the holidays in SE Asia is proper advance planning or working with a local company that can steer you toward the most authentic options and smaller venues while using their first-hand local knowledge to make sure you avoid crowded tourist centers.

Traditional Thai massage

You are led up a dark concrete staircase by a woman who is to be your practitioner. But instead of a private, Western-style massage room, you find yourself in a large room with ten mats spread along the floor occupied by people dressed in pajamas being pressed, bent, and squeezed by barefoot massage therapists.

Though your masseuse weighs less than one hundred pounds, it’s astonishing how much pressure she can apply, working first on your legs, applying elbows to pressure points on your hamstrings, bending your legs and rocking them gently.

She moves to your back, treating it like a crossword puzzle, kneading with the palm of her hand. The treatment intensifies and she moves across your back, leaning, walking, kneeling…squeezing your flesh with her toes and fingers, all the while engaging in singsong conversation with the masseuse two feet away.

Traditional Thai massage is an energizing, therapeutic experience and a highlight of  traveling to Thailand. Wherever you are, from Bangkok to small towns, Thai massage establishments are everywhere, and it is an integral part of the Thai experience. All up it ranks as one of the most pleasurable experiences in the kingdom.

Thai massage is a style of bodywork different from what many western people know as massage. Thai massage is

Dan gets a massage from the experts at Wat Pho

performed without oils, with the recipient clothed and on a floor mat rather than elevated spa bed. Practitioners use their thumbs, feet, arms, elbows, knees and legs to stretch, balance and energize the receiver’s body. Pressure is never exerted on the bones; rather, muscles are worked and released through stretching, rocking and slow loosening.

Extending the range of motion of the receiver’s body is an important part of Thai massage. Stretching often takes the form of assisted yoga. Once the client has relaxed deeply, the practitioner, with heightened sensitivity, stretches the client to his or her comfortable limit. Movements are always gradual, so you wind up in positions such as “the reclining cobra” without any strain.

Thai massage is considered one of the branches of Thai Traditional Medicine, recognized and regulated by the government. The practice dates back 2500 years and was passed down in Buddhist monasteries because it not only relieved aches and pains, but allowed monks to sit for long hours in deep meditation.

Thai massage is based on the theory that invisible lines of force run through the body, called “Sen,” with important acupressure points sitting along these lines. Thai massage seeks to release “blockages” that exist along the Sen to allow the free flow of energy throughout the body.

Herbal medicine

Thai medicine combines techniques that were influenced by Indian and traditional Chinese medicine. Within this synthesis there are important components that are purely Thai, including the belief that massage practitioners should positively affect the physiology and energetic well-being of the body and mind of the recipient.

Thai massage is practiced very slowly with an emphasis on both practitioner and client being in a heightened state of meditative consciousness. Thai massage is recognized as a practical application of the Buddhist concept of “Metta,” or loving kindness, bringing to fulfillment Buddhist teachings of bringing higher ideals into everyday life and treating emotional and spiritual disorders.

Thai massage is widely used for overall health maintenance. Many wealthy Thai families hire a Thai massage practitioner to remain with the family after the birth of a child to treat the new mother. Because of its affordability (generally $6USD-$10USD per hour) Thai massage is popular and accessible throughout the country.

Qualified practitioners study for extended periods at highly regarded massage schools or temples. But, for the most part, Thai massage is handed down orally from one generation to the next, from teacher to student, which explains the ubiquity of Thai Massage clinics throughout the country. With few central guidelines or benchmarks, virtually anyone can hang their shingle and start a Thai massage practice.

Look for shops that take pride in their appearance: it’s worth paying an extra 100-200 Thai Baht ($3USD-$6USD) to ensure the ambiance befits the experience. Small touches like music, rock gardens with waterfalls and clean environs win over “cheapies” where the massage may be adequate, but constant cell phone chatter by a row of masseuses distracts from the experience.

The beauty of the massage experience in Thailand is the range of treatments and styles. There are some old classics

Thai Massage and the various positions to make your spine tingle

in Bangkok where a 1hr massage is 300THB-500THB ($10USD-$15USD) to more elaborate spa oasis experiences that charge double or triple that amount, complete with herbal teas, medicinal oils and traditional therapies like Ayurvedic techniques.

Lastly, it is common etiquette to tip your masseur ranging from 10%-30% of the price, depending on the level and quality. For example a 300thb massage would warrant a tip of between 50THB-100THB, and a 1,000THB massage between 100THB-300THB.

Thailand travel would not be complete without trying Thai massage at least once (or, ideally, several times while you are in the Kingdom!). Here is a list of high quality Thai massage options across Thailand, ranging from simple to extravagant:

Bangkok:

Wat Po

http://www.watpomassage.com/

Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple compound was founded in the 16th century. The College of Traditional Medicine in the eastern courtyard is a must for Thai Massage enthusiasts. Traditional Thai massages run $6 U.S. dollars an hour.

248 Thanon Thai Wang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok

Phone: +66-2-225-9595

Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio

Set in a refurbished Thai home, this popular massage establishment is set conveniently in the center of Bangkok. Prices are extremely reasonable.

42 Convent Rd., Silom, Bangkok

Phone: +66-0-2-632-2662

Healthland

http://www.healthlandspa.com/

A popular chain of affordable, high-quality massage treatment centers located throughout Bangkok.

120 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangkok

Phone: +66-2-637-8883

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Spa

http://www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa/

Bangkok’s legendary historic hotel offers one of the most reputable luxury spas in Southeast Asia.

48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok

Phone: +66 (2) 659 9000 ext 7440 or 7444

Email: mobkk-spa@mohg.com

Chiang Mai

Thai Massage Conservation Club (massage by blind masseurs)

A great way to relax, enjoy a great massage and help blind masseurs earn a living. Seven masseurs work/live here and provide good services in a simple, yet clean environment. Call ahead to reserve a time.

99 Ratchadamnoen Road

Phone: +66-53-904-452, 08:00-22:00

Chiang Mai Women’s Prison Massage

Female inmates learn the art of Thai massage and are allowed to practice on the public for one month. Thai massage is 180THB/hr and Foot massage is 150THB/hr.

100 Rachwithee Rd

Phone: +66-81-706-1041, 08:00-16:30

Let’s Relax

This place is all about style and substance.  Prices are a bit higher than others nearby, but you’ll appreciate the extra-relaxing atmosphere and knowledgeable staff.

Chang Klan Road – along the Night Bazaar

Phone: +66-53-818-494

Ko Samui

Absolute Sanctuary

Ko Samui’s original detox, yoga and spa center. They also have a resort and outside guests are welcome to come, relax and indulge. True bliss.

88 Moo 5, Bo Phut

Phone: +66-77-601-190

Six Senses Hideaway Samui

Six Senses is famous for its spa therapies and outside guests are welcome. Bring your credit card, check-in and enjoy.

9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, at Six Senses Resort

Phone: +66-77-245-678

Zazen

A great choice for a true Thai massage with all the power you’ve heard about. Come here for a real working-over.

177, Moo1, Tambon Bo Phut

Phone: +66-77-425-085

Phuket

Banyan Tree Spa

http://www.banyantreespa.com/

This super-luxury spa has earned accolades from around the world. With meticulous attention to design and detail, and a professionally trained staff, this is the place to lose yourself in over-the-top pampering.

71/6 moo 5, Soi Paniang, Yaowarat Road, Phuket

Phone: +66-76-324374

street vendors

Hanoi, the once sleepy capital of Vietnam, has transformed itself into a dynamic, modern city. Infused with historic charm and character, and a strong village feel, Hanoi offers contemporary comforts – world-class cuisine, art and hotels – wrapped in Chinese heritage and French colonial vestiges, with a splash of energy and style. While there are many oft-mentioned sights such as war-era prisons, the tomb of the former president, and numerous museums of course, those are best kept for Saigon. Two days in Hanoi is short – but stay on at street-level and make the most of it.

Hanoi is driven by its own palpable pace and atmosphere. Downtown, motorcycles rule the  streets, moving en masse through thoroughfares and capillaries, carrying entire families – mom, dad, three year-old child up front, grandma riding side-saddle behind. In contrast, Hanoi’s French and Diplomatic Quarter has tranquil, tree-lined avenues and long stretches of finely preserved colonial architecture. This is the area to grab a coffee and take a stroll. Here, you’ll see grand buildings and moments of Paris.

Hanoi has experienced extraordinary growth over the last two decades, moving beyond days of post-war struggle, famine and hardship and emerging as a modern metropolis. The colourful mayhem of the “36 streets” of the city’s Old Quarter is where most people eat, sleep and play. Cafes spill onto streets, and pedestrians compete with hawkers for control of the footpaths. Roadside stands serve coffee and baguettes, and bougainvillea spills out from balconies. Hanoi is where Paris meets Asia!

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

What to See, What to Avoid

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, usually considered a de rigueur stop in Hanoi, is the Soviet-style structure and it’s where “Uncle Ho” is entombed for public display, in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion (despite President Ho’s requests to the contrary).   Solemnity is imposed by guards who ensure no talking, revealing clothing, or other signs of disrespect while viewing Ho’s remains.

Our advice: Admire from the outside, but skip seeing President Ho’s corpse. It is time-consuming, rigid (the experience, that is) and so brief that it winds up as a long-orchestrated anti-climax. Instead, observe the grand square outside and then walk through the park and visit the One Pillar Pagoda, admire the architecture of the Presidential Palace, which was the former Governor of Indochina’s residence at the turn of last century.

The Temple of Literature is easily accessible by motorcycle, foot or taxi.

Temple of Literature

Roughly 1,000 years ago this is the original center of learning for the new Vietnamese state – recently independent both culturally and militarily from China.Laquered statues, Vietnamese architecture and newlyweds posing for wedding photos. It is quintessentially Hanoi. No queuing required – go in and out at your own pace. If crowds are a problem, visit quieter pagodas, such as the Tay Ho Pagoda in trendy Westlake. No tourists – just worshipers.

Hoan Kiem Bridge

Stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, also known as “Lake of the Restored Sword”. As the historical and geographical center of Hanoi, the lakeside area is filled with local life and activities. Catch athletics in the morning, or check out Sepak Takraw (kick volleyball) in front of the beautifully

imposing statue of Ly Thai To, across from the Lake, a block from the Opera House.

Drinking & Nightlife

Hanoi is a city of early risers who start the day before sunrise and turn in around 9pm.  Thus, the drinking scene in Hanoi starts earlier, with many locals gathering around the city’s Bia Hoi bars in the late afternoon.

Hanging out at Hanoi’s bia hoi bars is a fun way to get close to locals and watch the world go by. Bia Hoi (literally translated as “air beer”) is an essential local phenomenon: a light lager-style beer, brewed fresh daily, is delivered and served at several local establishments.

Dan and guests with bia hoi, street food, kid's furniture

The area around Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen streets hosts several bia hoi establishments that fill up daily with travelers.

Eating

Hanoi has something for every taste. From omnipresent street-level food stalls to world class restaurants, Hanoi caters to most culinary preferences.

Street food is abundant. Almost everywhere in Hanoi you’ll find simple streetside stalls and kiosks, spilling onto sidewalks, serving local favorites, including bun cha (hunks of grilled pork served in sweet and sour green papaya juice) and baguette sandwiches overloaded with pate. Vietnamese street food is diverse and loaded with fresh flavors like electric-red chillies, vibrant basil, fresh garlic, mint and lime.

Hanoi street dining offers an up-close glimpse of local culture. Pho (a broth-based soup and Vietnam’s national dish) is widely considered to be at it’s definitive best in Hanoi.  Pho shops are local institutions, such as Pho #10 on Le Quoc Sur, a tiny, family run establishment loved by locals.

Oyster Bar at Don's Tay Ho

Hanoi has given rise to many world class restaurants. Escape the Old Quarter for trendy Westlake and visit Don’s Bistro Tay Ho (16/27 Xuan Dieu St). Master Chef Donald Berger has a superb oyster bar overlooking the lake and some of the finest haute cuisine in Vietnam.. Bobby Chinn, owner of Restaurant Bobby Chinn (77 Xuan Dieu Street), of course has gained global acclaim for his adventurous Asian-world fusion cuisine, and  Club De L’Oriental, serves upscale Vietnamese cuisine a couple of blocks from the Opera House and Metropole Hanoi.

It’s easy to find a great cup of coffee in Hanoi. The recently opened Joma Coffee on Le Quoc Sur is undeniably good, but for the real Hanoi deal, walk to Hang Gai and turn left, and grab a seat on the corner with locals and order the nation’s most famous drink: cafe sua da – strong like molasses!

What to Buy

Hanoi is a shopper’s paradise. The quality and craftsmanship of locally made goods is generally high and the prices generally low. Hanoi offers the best selection of ‘refined’ Western-style goodies like handbags and picture frames, but even simple local markets can yield superb silks and ceramics. Pottery, lacquer ware and tribal handicrafts are legendary in Hanoi. The four-square blocks around the cathedral, Nha Tho district, offer a superb afternoon of shopping options.

A few shops to consider visiting are Mosiaquie (22 Pho Nha Tho Nha Tho Area), run by a Vietnamese family with keen sense of household collectibles (they started the ‘bead lamp’ craze now seen all over Hanoi). Ipa Nema (17, Nhà Thờ, Q.Hoàn Kiếm) is run by Christina Yu, a transplanted American designer with signature boutiques in Hanoi. Tan My Boutique (61, Hàng Gai, Q.Hoàn Kiếm) is three generations of a family producing fine collectibles and fashions. The entire stretch between Le Quoc Sur, Hang Gai, Hang Troung and back to the Cathedral is filled with shops selling locally made goods.

Presidential Palace in "Ho Chi Minh Park"

Hanoi is a stylish, European-influenced city of complex charms. With two days or less at your disposal, stay on the sidewalks. You’ll find that Hanoi’s European blend of neighborhood shops, flower stalls, eclectic dining and sidewalk patisseries sitting comfortably along side ancient pagodas and incense enshrouded temples is an experience to be savored.

A few random pics of some nice corners of Hanoi…

Nha Tho - the cathedral in the Old Quarter's prime shopping zone

Temple of Literature - Great King Ly

Pagoda in the Old Quarter

Bobby Chinn

Bobby Chinn is the owner of Restaurant Bobby Chinn in Hanoi, Vietnam. Bobby, a native of San Francisco, California, kindled his passion for Vietnamese cooking 15 years ago, eventually settling in Hanoi. He’s also the author of the cookbook Eats East meets West.

Widely regarded as a rising star in the world of international cuisine, Bobby has cooked alongside some of the world’s most celebrated chefs and currently hosts two of his own shows on the Discovery Network.

What fires your passion for Vietnamese cuisine?

It’s a complex question because there are so many different foods I’ve been exposed to over the years. When I worked in a French restaurant, it was about total concentration, executing tasks with precision, day in and day out.

Vietnamese dish

Vietnamese cooking is different. It’s not that there aren’t several steps involved in achieving great food, but Vietnamese cooking doesn’t require much skill.

Vietnamese cooking is about taking herbs, ripping them apart and throwing them into something and creating unique flavor combinations. Whether it’s mint, cilantro or dill, these herbs are what make Vietnamese food exciting. Each mouthful is different. It could be minty,  or you take another bite and it’s cilatro-ish. They bring in fried shallots, which add texture and flavor; throw in some chopped roasted peanuts. Then add a dipping sauce, which is a combination of water, lime juice, vinegar, yeast and caramel.

It’s the powerful combination of these fresh ingredients that do the work. So, unlike fine cuisine in the West, in Vietnamese cooking it’s how you choose and combine ingredients that do all the work.

To what do you attribute the rise in popularity of Vietnamese food worldwide?

Number one: it’s good food! Vietnamese food is a light, low-fat cuisine. It is simple to make and beautiful to look at.

Number Two: the business and economic development that’s been taking place in Vietnam for the past decade means that more and more travelers come here and spread the word about how great the food is when they go back home.

What do the Vietnamese think about this foreign guy, with no Vietnamese heritage, taking on their cuisine in their own country?

Bobby Chinn cooking

Many people think that I’m a nut. In the beginning, when I came here, the people who hired me to cook in this restaurant were upset when I decided to make a turnover pineapple soup.

The only advantage, I think could ever have is that I could use ingredients that justify a more expensive price, and the ingredient that people who will them still.

When you are not in your restaurant, where do you like to eat?

There is a lady that taught me how to make “bangkwan,” which is, for me, one of the greatest dishes. I’ve taken food critics and food writers to eat bangkwan and they all come away impressed by. The dish is composed of rice flour batter, which is made into a type of rice noodle. What makes the dish spectacular is the use of different sauces that kind of bring everything together.

That dish is like having a silky smooth noodle in your mouth with contrasting textures of the chicken, mushroom, and the softness of the shallots. Then there is a dipping sauce with caramel, fish sauce, sugar and water. You add chili and herbs. What makes it a sensational dish is the amount of work they put into it.