Adventure Highlights

Get Jazzy in Nepal: Take our legendary Nepal Grand Slam adventure, throw in a bit of smooth jazz and some mind-blowing backdrops, and you have the incredible Jazzmandu Grand Slam. This once-per-year adventure features a gorgeous trek in the Annapurna Range and tickets to all Jazzmandu gigs. This multi-day jazz festival at wild venues in the Kathmandu Valley is one of the most unique festivals on the planet and the perfect companion to our adventures there.

Classic Cambodia: Southeast Asia’s rainy season is coming soon, which means the crowds die down – a perfect time to explore the magnificent temples of Cambodia! On this trip you’ll get up close with the many facets of this country’s rich culture, conflicted past, and experience everything from dense jungles to serene landscapes to the best of Phnom Penh’s colonial architecture and food. Led by Cambodia’s top hosts, it’s an insider view of an amazing country that no one should miss!

What’s Going On?

Long Krung Gets Another Season – Our very own television celebrity Daniel Fraser has been hard at work running all over Thailand filming segments for the hit television show Long Krung. All that hard work has paid off because he recently found out it’s been renewed for a fourth season! As the comments on YouTube and Thai-language message boards attest, the show is a hit with Thais who love to see the people, communities and traditions of their country through the eyes of a foreigner. A big congratulations to Dan, and check out Long Krung’s existing videos on Smiling Albino’s YouTube channel.

Riverfront Renovations – One of the unfortunate things about Bangkok is that centrally-located land is at a premium, and nothing says ‘return on investment’ like shopping malls. Our favorite night market, Suan Lum, was demolished last year to make way for a new development, but there’s finally a worthy replacement. Smiling Albino (SA) recently attended the grand opening of the brand new Asiatique riverfront market. The facility will eventually cover 12,000 acres and feature shopping, dining, drinking, sightseeing and activities for all ages and comers. It’s built in a style reminiscent of the early 20th century which adds something new to the city.

A Side Trip to Bagan – Trips to Myanmar (aka Burma) – aren’t offered yet by SA, but that might be changing. Co-founder Scott Coates recently took an exploratory trip to this amazing country and came back suitably impressed. From the majesty of Yangon to the rich culture and friendly people to the endless temples of the Bagan plain, the country has a vast wealth of experiences to offer travelers. Things are changing fast in Myanmar, and the country is slowly opening up after 60 years of restrictive military rule. Read Scott’s blog about the trip to Bagan.

Posts, Pictures, Flicks & Podcasts

Impressions of Luang Prabang Blog: Despite traveling like a madman all over Asia, Scott had somehow managed to not make it to Laos for more than a decade! It was high time to go back, so he recently set out to visit Thailand’s quiet neighbor on a mission to help SA friend Aaron Frankel update the Laos edition of Groovy Map.

Thai Cooking Course Podcast: In the world of Thai cooking schools, the name Blue Elephant stands head and shoulders above the rest. In this episode Planet Asia Podcast SA Project Coordinator Trevor Ranges talks with the founder of the renowned school to discuss various courses and recipes to whet the appetite.

Bagan Photo Gallery: Check out some pictures of Bagan’s stunning landscape in our most recent photo gallery. Golden temples, friendly smiles and stunning landscapes are just a click away.

Connect With Smiling Albino!

Facebook and Twitter: “Like” and “follow” us on Facebook and Twitter and you will get tuned-in to the latest breaking news and hot tips on travel and adventure in Asia.

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Contact:Get a hold of us any time.

A crazy spot to play

Walking along a rocky dirt trail, I heard some chatter ahead and looked up from the path to see a group of children wearing tattered clothing, sitting on a rock on the edge of a dramatic drop, talking and playing. It was as if there was no impending precipice and they were carrying on like kids in Canada would while sitting on a soft mat playing on the floor. They heard me approaching, turned with beaming smiles and started throwing what limited English phrases they knew my way. I was clearly a novelty, they were as interested in my no doubt strange clothes, pale white skin and fact I was there, as I was in their seemingly terrifying spot to play. I was officially way off the beaten path, a curiosity, and the only reason I was here is because I had a full service trekking crew making it possible.

Nepal is a small yet huge country. If its mountains were flattened it would be 14 times larger than it appears on maps. In just 230km the country rises from 71m in the south to 8,850m in the north. The road infrastructure is minimal to say the least and most citizens walk days on ancient footpaths to reach the nearest road. It’s this labyrinth-like network of paths and varied terrain that create an almost infinite number of possible trekking routes, as long as you have your own tent, food and equipment. The vast majority of visitors rely upon tea houses (like guest houses) which blanket the country’s famous trekking routes such as Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp, literally keeping everyone on the same path. But if you have a trekking crew to carry tents, cooking gear, food and other supplies, you can literally go anywhere. That’s where I was.

The sun sets at camp

One of my favorite travel experiences in the world is full service trekking in Nepal. A group of eight travelers typically has an impressive crew of about 20 extremely hard working and hospitable people who literally take you along and over the mountains. Their roles are very specific and they undertake them with great pride and precision. Some are junior porters who carry ‘light’ loads of about 20kg, while other more senior porters carry about 50kg. There are Sidars and Sherpas (actually an ethnic group) who manage the crews and assist guests as needed. The cook and his/her team are perhaps some of the most important people as they keep guests fuelled and most importantly healthy. Having such a crew allows you to walk almost any path, set up camp as you go, access remote areas, meet locals who rarely see tourists and have an extremely unique and authentic experience.

The entire trekking experience is very Zen-like. The pace is much slower than westerners are used to hiking. There’s no rush to finish the day as quickly as possible, for you’d beat the crew to meal and camping spots, resulting in you sitting and waiting. So you slow down, stop often to take in the views, chat with people along the way and soak it all in. Suddenly the journey becomes the important factor, not the time it took to cover the day’s distance. Chatting with your crew, watching them work and haul their loads is an impressive and interesting activity in itself. Their ability to work incredibly hard all day then prepare your camp and meals, while smiling and seemingly not become fatigued is inspiring.

Camping off-the-beaten-path

One wakes on trek about 6am to a gentle voice outside your tent, “tea sir/madam.” Unzip the tent and you’re handed a steaming cup and a wash basin of warm water to do a bit of morning preening. Change for the day, pack your daypack then pull your bags out of the tent. While you have a warm breakfast of porridge with honey, eggs any style, toast and other bits, your tent is taken down and packed for the day. Then it’s off on the trail for about four hours, leisurely meandering along footpaths, through tiny villages and marveling at each and every moment. Lunch is a relaxed two-hour affair as water is boiled and a scrumptious hot meal assembled, usually on the side of a mountain. Another few hours and you arrive at camp. Tents are erected while hot cocoa, coffee and biscuits put on offer. Dinner takes a while to prepare and typically starts with popcorn then a hot soup, followed by any number of scrumptious curries, stews, pizzas and is sometimes topped-off with a cake somehow baked in the cook’s small tent!

Travel brochures all too often promise to take you off-the-beaten-path, but it’s rarely true. Travelers regularly say they want to be off-the-tourist-trail but can’t do without email or a hot shower for more than a day or two. Thankfully there’s Nepal, its wonderful people, incredible terrain and full serviced trekking crews which unequivocally deliver on the above, in comfort and style. If you love the outdoors and crave the truly magical and unique, then get trekking with us.

Thais are serious about having fun and enjoying life, a trait that is best seen in the many and varied festivals that go on throughout the year. From waterlogged street parties to raucous fireworks displays, to solemn candle-lit meditation, there’s a festival for every mood! Here are five of our favorites:

Yaowarat's Odeon Gate

Chinese New Year
With Thailand’s large ethnic Chinese population, it’s no surprise that one of the more exuberant festivals is the Chinese New Year. The date changes each year but it generally falls between late-January and early-February. It’s a raucous explosion of parades, dances, costumes and food that sees entire communities mobilized to celebrate the holiday as colorfully as possible. Although there are plenty of opportunities for action-packed pictures and all-night celebrating, locals also use the time to pay respect to their ancestors, making sure their children recognize and understand the spiritual component of it all. Most towns and villages observe the holiday, but the best place to experience it is in Bangkok’s dense and steamy Yaowarat district (Chinatown).

Pee Ta Kon, aka, Ghost Festival
There’s a legend that says when the Buddha returned to his home after many years away, there was a party so big that even the spirits joined in. And thus goes the increasingly famous Pee Ta Kon, or Ghost Festival, which takes places in Loei province in July. Possibly the wildest celebration in Thailand, revelers dress up in large, elaborate ghost masks and stream up and down the streets parading giant phalluses like trophies through the dancing, cheering crowds. On the last day, homemade bamboo rockets (some of them startlingly large) are launched into the sky in the hopes of bringing rain. The fun is underscored by serious introspection, and on the last day many attend sermons that delve into the teachings of the Buddha. And there’s a bit of alcohol consumed along the way.

In full Songkran spirit

Songkran
The mother of all Thai festivals is undoubtedly Songkran, or the Thai New Year, officially occurring from April 13-15. To the untrained eye, it may seem nothing more than an all-out, three-day water war between you and every other person you see, but it actually comes from a much deeper tradition than merely blasting your neighbor with a super-sized water gun. Officially the festival is a way to pay respect to your elders by pouring scented water poured over their cupped hands which signifies humility, a cleansing of past transgressions and the beginning of a new year full of opportunity. Families also pour a bit of water down the back of the neck of elders. It’s also a time to wash/bathe Buddha images which are most important to you, usually those at home or at a nearby temple. While these traditional acts still play out at serene family gatherings, it’s the waterlogged partying that brings out the crowds. Festivities take place all over the country, but the biggest and best are in Chiang Mai and Bangkok.

Buffalo Racing Festival
Often used as slang for a stupid person, the water buffalo – or kwai – has been a key part of Thailand’s agricultural development for centuries, and this fun and rowdy festival in Chonburi province in October finally gives these beasts their due. Jockeys sit astride their mounts and when the whistle blows, they’re off! Well, sometimes – often they just wander forward without a care in the world looking for grass to eat, but when they do decide to thunder down the track, it’s a sight to behold. There are also parades, food, and even a beauty pageant for the most beautiful buffalo!

Floating a Thai lantern

Loy Krathong
Undoubtedly Thailand’s most beautiful festival, November’s Loy Krathong is all about giving thanks, mainly to Phra Mae Khongkha, the water goddess, for using her water; Thailand, after all, has always been a heavily agricultural and water-based society. During the full-moon day in November devotees across the country will literally ‘let go’ of stress and bad feelings by floating a ceremonial krathong, a small floating object usually made out of banana plant, onto a body of water and saying a prayer. In addition to this, millions of candle-lanterns are let go, making for a gorgeous scene as they rise slowly into the night. Huge crowds throughout the country are a testament to Loy Krathong being the most romantic and spiritual of all Thai festivals.

Now it’s time to get to Thailand and experience a few for yourself!

A vintage car in front of 3 Nagas, Luang Prabang

After the New York Times listed Luang Prabang, Laos as one of the top spots to visit a few years ago it’s really been booming. Since that time travelers have been split on whether they love it or find it contrived. In this episode of Planet Asia Podcast, Smiling Albino co-founder Scott Coates and National Geographic guidebook writer Trevor Ranges talk about their impressions of Luang Prabang, Laos. They share their insights on the area, talk about the good, the not so good and get to the bottom of the issue. Listen to their discussion about one of SE Asia’s most charming locations and their recommendations for getting the most out of a visit there.

Enjoying sundown

I’d been dying to get to Bagan, Myanmar for the last 10 years but somehow it constantly alluded me. Despite being only two hours by plane from Bangkok real logistics make it a bit more of an effort to reach. Visas needed to be obtained prior to arrival; you first need to fly to the capital Yangon, then overnight there before catching a very early morning flight onwards to Bagan. Add free time availability into the equation while growing Smiling Albino in other parts of the region and I guess that explains the decade-long delay. April 13-17, 2012 finally saw a window open during Songkran (Thai New Year) and I jumped.

Lying roughly 700km north of capital, Bagan is little-known to most mainstream travelers but is easily one of SE Asia’s most mesmerizing and important sites. Modern-day Myanmar can be traced to this area that’s famous for its thousands of stupas and temples that cover a hot, dry expanse of land along the Irrawaddy River in the country’s central region. The Pagan Empire took root here in 1044 and flourished with kings erecting more than 4,000 monuments before either being defeated by Mongol invaders in 1287 or abandoning the capital prior to Kublai Khan and his army’s arrival. Subsequent centuries saw structures collapse, a major earthquake in 1975 flattened many that remained, but following major restoration work in the 1990s there are more than 2,000 temples dotting the landscape today, creating one of the most impressive scenes I’ve experienced in the region.

Getting around by horse cart

While pedaling an old-school bicycle along one of Bagan’s few paved (but bumpy) roads to a temple, it struck me how all other roads are small dirt ones, hardly wide enough for a car and most temples don’t even have an English-language sign at them. Despite being on Myanmar’s ‘must-see’ list for decades this is one spot still very much untraveled and best of all, very underdeveloped. Having been to the stunning temples of Angkor in Siem Reap, Cambodia many times and witnessing that area’s boom, it’s easy to imagine things will be drastically different here within a decade if the country continues to open-up as it has over the last year. I was smiling to be here now, before progress brings too much change and hundreds of thousands of visitors.

The Historical Park itself covers a bit over 100sqkm and it’s possible to cover key sites at a comfortable pace in three days using a variety of transportation methods. One day is best spent on bicycle, another traveling by charming horse-drawn cart and a third by air conditioned car for a break from the heat that becomes intense during much of the year by mid-afternoon. Smiling Albino’s always placed a good deal of importance on varying transport and Bagan provides an ideal opportunity to also enjoy a sundown journey by boat on the storied Irrawaddy River, bringing total transport methods to four.

Classic Bagan sunrise

It’s easy to suffer temple-overload in Bagan and important to pace days accordingly. A couple hours in the afternoon are best spent enjoying your hotel pool, relaxing and cooling off. At least one sunrise is a major must and Dhammayazika is an ideal choice, providing a breathtaking panorama of all major structures as light changes and dazzles from its large upper-deck viewing area. Sunset’s another must and travelers clamors for the best spot, crowding most major temples providing little privacy, but luckily Smiling Albino received a few ‘insider’ tips and headed to Thamanpaya, which was quiet and was almost entirely ours.

Riding Bangkok’s Airport Rail Link train back to my house I could hardly believe a few hours earlier I was seemingly centuries away, perched atop a brick temple watching the sun rise on Bagan’s incredible landscape. Change is coming quickly to these parts, but there’re still a few good years of pioneering adventure ahead before semi-mainstream tourism blankets Myanmar. I’ll not wait 10 years for my next visit, let alone 10 months. This is one country well worth visiting now before word officially gets out.

See some pictures of Bagan’s Temple Landscape.

Khun Nooror Somany Steppe

Have a listen to our latest Planet Asia Podcast to learn about Thai food, Thai cooking, cooking courses and the intricacies of creating world-class dishes. Smiling Albino Project Coordinator Trevor Ranges chats with Khun Nooror Somany Steppe, chef extraordinaire and founder of Blue Elephant, one of Bangkok’s most famous Thai restaurants. With locations across the world including Jakarta, Malta, Paris and Dubai, Khun Nooror is one of the world’s foremost experts on Thai cuisine and shares her impressions and love of Thai cuisine. Dig in and have a listen.

Stunning sunrise

Smiling Albino 'fans' in Bagan

Bagan's tallest temple - Thatbyinyu

Irrawaddy River at sunset

Ananda temple

Dhammayangyi temple

Stay tuned, more coming soon…

What’s Going On?

Scholarships for Students – Following the fund-raising success of the Angkor Hospital for Children Tuk-Tuk Program, we’re happy to also congratulate the recipients of our Scholarships for Students Program: Working with the Samsara Foundation, Smiling Albino has sponsored 10 hill-tribe students from the Mae Sariang region of NW Thailand, and will pay for their education through Grade 12. It’s the generosity of Smiling Albino friends and family that makes these programs possible, but it’s the dedication of these eager, young students that earns our admiration!

Google Street View: Thailand – 360-degree, street-level images of Thailand are available via Google Street View. Want to virtually visit your favorite neighborhood or sneak a peek down an infamous red-light alley? Google Maps allows you to zoom into the area you want to see by using the yellow man icon (on top-left zoom bar) on select locations in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Phuket.

Scott Coates Report – Congratulations to Smiling Albino co-founder Scott Coates, who was elected to the board of the Thai Canadian Chamber of Commerce. Scott is also spending his Songkran holiday in stunning Bagan, Myanmar: Stories and photos in the next Albino Smiles!

Adventure Highlights

South East Asian Explorer – This signature adventure is a mosaic of the very best of Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. Themes include the multiple layers of Bangkok, Chiang Mai’s celebrated Lanna culture, a nostalgic two-day journey down the Mekong River on a converted luxury barge to Luang Prabang, Laos, and finally a visit to Cambodia’s stunning Angkor Wat, one of the world’s great wonders. This unique 15-day multi-nation adventure is available on demand. Contact us for more information.

Posts, Pictures, Flicks & Podcasts

Planet Asia Podcast:

Joe Cummings – Sacred Tattoos of Thailand – “Magic Tattoos” are another interesting facet of Thai culture and Smiling Albino co-founder Scott Coates recently sat down with author Joe Cummings to talk about the subject of his latest book: Sacred Tattoos of Thailand.

Motor-biking in Thailand – Smiling Albino co-founder and motorcycle enthusiast Daniel Fraser talks with Trevor Ranges about why Thailand may be the best motorcycling touring destination in the world.

Planet Asia Blog:

Life on the Tonle Sap Lake: Stilted and Floating Villages of Cambodia – The Tonle Sap provides numerous opportunities for visitors to experience the vibrant communities and diverse animals that inhabit the great Cambodian lake. Either via day trips to flooded forests and floating villages or while traveling aboard a ferry or luxury riverboat, even a glimpse of a Cambodian floating village is an experience to remember.

Connect With Smiling Albino!

Facebook and Twitter: “Like” and “follow” us on Facebook and Twitter and you will get tuned-in to the latest breaking news and hot tips on travel and adventure in Asia.

Planet Asia Travel Channel: Subscribe to the Planet Asia Travel Channel and receive expert advice and insider tips on travel in Asia from the team at Smiling Albino and our network of in-the-know locals, expatriates, and travel enthusiasts.

Contact:Get a hold of us any time.

Classic shopfronts

I’ve called Bangkok home since September 1999 and have been lucky enough to travel the greater region often since that time. Developing and operating a highly customized travel company has required the founders (Daniel and I) to intimately know the areas in which we offer life-changing experiences and become on-the-ground experts in all regions we operate.

Over the years, Dan and I have split up the countries we focus on: He’s taken responsibility for Vietnam, Laos and Thailand, while I’ve concentrated mainly on Thailand, Cambodia and Nepal. We both travel to all the countries we offer trips in, brainstorming and sharing knowledge, but somehow I’d managed not to visit Laos since 2000! Daniel had a very good handle on things there and I was busy growing our trips in Cambodia and elsewhere.

Despite wanting to get back to Laos, years passed without getting over to Thailand’s quiet neighbor. Opportunity struck this month when our friend Aaron Frankel, owner of Groovy Map, who produces fun guide maps of Asian destinations, asked me to update their Laos edition. I accepted, called friends, business associates, and contacts living/working in Laos to get some tips, and booked my ticket.

A little-known, sleepy country with a good deal of mystery enshrouding it, Laos is full of surprises. The name alone conjures up images of steamy jungles, quiet villages along the Mekong River, and soldier of fortune missions: some of which are true and others far from today’s reality. Sparsely populated (6.5 million) compared to its two major neighbors Thailand (68m) and Vietnam (87m), Laos’ pace of life is still quite slow but is changing quickly. Chinese investment is growing monthly, villages are becoming towns, and bicycles are giving way to motorcycles and cars.

Nam Khan River

Despite the rapid growth Laos is still relaxed and full of charm. A nation steeped in class and tradition, temples bountiful, smiles abound and life in most of the nation has gone mostly unchanged for centuries. Its two main centers, Vientiane and Luang Prabang, are the most visited areas by travelers and both hold a different travel experience. While on the move, both feel more like modern villages than cities and provide a much different travel experience than other SE Asian countries do.

While on the plane to Luang Prabang I was curious as to what my impressions of the area would be? Over the years I’d heard both rave reviews and some lukewarm ones too. In 2008 the New York Times declared Luang Prabang the number one place to visit that year, and hotel rooms quickly filled once the word was officially out about this charming little UNESCO World Heritage town. The increasing numbers of travelers spurred more shops, restaurants, hotels and cafes to open, further clouding reviews from travelers. Some loved it for its wide range of offerings and tourist friendly vibe while others began to comment that everything was contrived and created just for visitors. In some ways both points are correct.

Laos speed

Luang Prabang’s main peninsula, which is formed by the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, is where most visitors spend the majority of their time. This roughly 2km by 500m stretch exudes charm and rich character, but most of the buildings, shops, hotels, cafes and shops on it are geared towards tourists and their spending power. Old buildings have been refurbished and newer ones built to look old. The effect is described by some as a Disneyland-like environment and by others as one of the most unique and enchanting destinations in the region. It’s important to remember, and respect, the fact that someone at some point decided to protect and preserve the original buildings in the town, something only possible because of tourism revenue.

The best approach to avoid disappointment when visiting Luang Prabang is to appreciate it as a snapshot in time of French Indochina. Whether preserved and perpetuated for tourist consumption or viewed as a living legacy for all to enjoy and appreciate, the area exudes undeniable charm. There’s nowhere else in SE Asia (or the world for that matter) like it, and it is what it is. Show up with an open mind, slow your pace way down, and slide into a pace of travel that revolves around sitting, watching, walking and absorbing.

Have a look at our Luang Prabang photo galleries.