Nearby rubber plantation
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‘Non-Toritsy Advanter for Tourist’ a sign reads, attempting to whet my appetite for adventure. I’m standing on the main drag at Ao Nang Beach, in Krabi province, and every second shop seems to be a tourist information center peddling similar tours. There are a few standard tailor shops, European restaurants with overpriced bland food and hotels being thrown together by teams of flip-flop-clad laborers. This is Phuket or Koh Samui 10-15 years ago. But everything’s changing…
It all started around two years ago with the opening of the Krabi Airport. Beach pilgrims need no longer to take a bus to the Mecca from neighboring airports in Phuket or Surat Thani. Instead, daily flights from Bangkok can deposit travelers on the beach within the hour.
The crowds grow daily, as does my penchant for getting off the trodden trail: I decided to forgoe the usual outings, offered by a host of retailers. My mission’s to enjoy the natural beauty Krabi has to offer, and do it by myself.
Old and disused long tail boat
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I begin at Hat Nopara, just 500m west of Ao Nang, a beautiful, scantly developed beach. During low tide you can walk to the three islands at the beach’s far west end.
After my first sunset run I’m hooked, and return every evening, thanks in part to the fabulous après at the ’79 Hip Café’. Located at the far eastern end of the beach, the Café’s cold beers, masaman, pancakes and hash brown patties are to die for. Funky tunes, a stellar view of the beach and an extremely inviting atmosphere usually keep me here well into the evening.
Designating pedal and paddle power as the perfect way to escape the immediate area, I hop on what looks like a mid-1990’s Russian mountain bike (50B/hr). Leaving Ao Nang behind, I head west towards the end of Hat Noparat Thara on Route 4203, then turn right onto Route 4202, following the road through several Muslim villages. Fruit abounds in these parts and rambutan – red long-haired fruit that looks like an alien toy - are cheap (B10/bunch), juicy and enough reason to stop for a break. I continue along Route 4203 until reaching a T-junction, where I turn right on Route 4201, which leads back to Ao Nang. The loop’s about 16km and provides a fascinating look at the local Muslim communities. Next I hop on a longtail boat to Railay Bay in quest of a sea-kayak, which I rent from a beachside shop (B150/hr). I purchase two bottles of water and head for the third in a series of nearby islands. Koh Hua Khwaan, located about 5km south of Railay, and easily reached by kayak in an hour, it’s popularly known as ‘Koh Gai’ (Chicken Island) because of the peak jutting out of the foliage on its far side – which does indeed look like a chicken’s head. Making sure of stable weather before setting off’s crucial. Only attempt this trip in the dry season (Nov – March) as storms creep up quickly during the Southeast monsoon season (May-Nov), making now the perfect time to attempt the journey.
The secret beach
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Taking a dip in the island’s crystal-clear waters lowers my body temperature raised by kayaking, but I also realize there’s no way my fat body’s paddling back to Railay. After pushing my Thai to the limit, I convince a longtail driver to tie the kayak to his boat for B125, and take me back with a group of day-trippers – ideal after the long day.
The tow also gets me – the much faster – to Café 154, where a hard-earned feast awaits me and my beaten body. Located about 1km north of Ao Nang beach, this tastefully decorated restaurant and bar is a piece of heaven. Run by the French-born Khun Ton, Cafe 154 offers farang food, including incredible sandwiches served on French loaves with real Dijon mustard (B70) and a New Zealand peppercorn steak (B220) that blows my mind. Leaving proves difficult thanks to the supremely stocked bar and as I throw back a smattering of spirits, Ton convinces me to return the next day, rent one of his motorbikes (B250/day) and follow his map to a ‘secret beach’.
Needing food for my road trip, I search for eats along a main street in Ao Nang. I slam on the breaks after sniffing some gai yang trong kruang’ (grilled chicken coated in spicy barbeque sauce), a Southern specialty sold at little roadside stalls by large Muslim ladies whose large frames suggest an enjoyment of their trade. With two sticks of grilled bird and some sticky rice in my basket, I headed north on Route 4203, turn left at the fork in the road onto Route 4201, right at the T-junction (Route 4202), fly down a hill and take a left onto the main road (Route 4034). After driving straight for about 3km, I take a left turn at the sign for the Andaman Holiday Resort, which takes me another 8km to Baan Khlong Muang where the real journey begins.
Turning right, the road soon becomes a combination of dirt and shale with potholes large enough to swallow my scooter. Pressing on for another 8km down this battered road, I finally came to the national park sign that’s marked as my goal on Ton’s hand-drawn map. A 200m walk down the hill and there it is – one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. And best of all, no one else is here. I spend my last evening in Krabi lying on the sand, contemplating life and wishing the sun would never set.
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