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It’s always better when you’ve wanted it for some time. The anticipation simply makes it more enjoyable. Long had I been dreaming of a ride down the mountain range that is home to one of Thailand’s most spectacular views, Phu Chee Fah.
On Phu Chee Fah
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Located 1380m above sea level, this sharp peak hangs over the Thai-Laos border in southeastern Chiang Rai province, providing stunning views of Laotian valleys.
Early morning visitors in the cool season (Nov-March) are rewarded with a sunrise unlike any other. Roughly 1000m below the peak are a sea of clouds blanketing the expanse and hills, only their peaks sticking out, looking much like islands in a sea of Cool Whip. This was to be the starting point of an epic ride.
Two years earlier I had experienced Phu Chee Fah with some friends and now found myself on an early-morning bus from Chiang Rai to Teong, about 60km down the road and midway to the famous summit.
Upon arriving in Teong, a hunt requiring an hour of patience, big smile and gift of the gab with potential transporters took place for a reasonably priced ride up the mountain. After being sent to several different locations where songtheaws (covered pickups with two benches in the back for sitting) were to be found, the third spot was the charm where I found several men, each with their own vehicle, nonchalantly waiting for passengers.
The map
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Problem – I’m the only one who wants to go to Phu Chee Fah, until a Thai couple comes upon the scene. Happy to pay more than my share, I sided with the driver and helped convince the couple that the price was fair as I wanted to get moving. My planned peddling start-time of noon was quickly approaching.
Sitting in the back of the songthaew, I suited up – helmet, gloves, hydration backpack, sunglasses and minidisk player, anxiously awaited the summit. A few dozen windy curves later and I was there.
With a self-assembled mix of chillout music massaging my ears and scenery dazzling my eyes I wound up and down, following the sometimes-paved mountain ridge road north. At one point, a hawk hovered above, catching thermo clines and seemed to be following me for some time. Opting for a smaller lunch, it eventually dove into the trees and bid me adieu.
Small climbs were rewarded with entertaining descents and suddenly I’d already traveled 20km, arriving at a daunting 300-verticle-meter climb to a Chinese village, Ban Pha Tang.
Huffing and puffing, I chatted with some locals, enjoyed a beverage, turned down an offer to spend the day drinking at a nearby house and geared up for what they told me was a, “happy fun” descent just ahead.
I was happy, having fun and mildly terrified. For 10kms I plummeted down the mountain at whatever speed I could bare. Occasionally my brain would remind me that I’m no longer 10-years-old and realized I’m not invincible, causing me to put on the binders and bring the speedometer back into the forties. Breathless, smeared with ‘permagrin’ and at the bottom, my speedometer told why I had the words from my bike grips imprinted on the palms of my hands – I’d peaked out at 64km/hr.
With the mountains behind, a 15km pedal north through the valley took me to the hamlet of Wiang Kaen and lunch.
Stuffed, legs cramping mildly and time ticking away, there was no way to avoid the remaining 40km to my final destination, Chiang Khong.
The next 20km followed the Mekong River, slowly snaking north with few cars interrupting its trickling silence. Maybe it was the aching legs, but ‘scenery stops’ were now happening too frequently. As the road turned away from the river with 30km to go and dusk quickly approaching it was time to get serious about peddling.
A slightly euphoric sensation came over me just before the turn off for Chiang Khong. I rode the final 20km in a semi-dazed state. This I concluded must be what marathoner’s experience. Yes, it was ‘THE WALL’. Push, push, push and what’s that? - A flat tire, with just six km to go. A quick tube change while answering 20 questions for local on-lookers and I was off again.
Sipping a beer while perched on the deck at Bamboo Riverside Guesthouse (a stop on our Chiang Rai Northern Escape II) with proprietor Jip, I tried to communicate my exceptional day. Although impressed he was more interested in sharing another beer and catching up. Fighting heavy eyes and dreaming of the past 88km, I was in paradise.
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