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Stories - Actual Adventures in Thailand

I was Running

Scott Coates

How to best see an area? Everyone has different ideas of how it should and shouldn’t be done.
While some swear by rental car others love the minibus and some like the wind-in-their-hair feeling that only a motorbike or bicycle can provide. But the journey there is only half the journey. Once you’ve arrived, that’s when the real exploration begins - the opportunity to slow down, stroll around, poke your nose in here and there, sit down, sip a bevy and watch it all go by.

It’s during these times the chance for personal exploration and exertion begin when you’re in this line of work. Leading adventures doesn’t allow much time for daily exercise while on the job, so capitalizing on where you are, when you’re there, not sitting down and watching it go by, but being the one who goes by is key.
Luckily this incredible job regularly goes to different, exotic locations that provide naturally beautiful backdrops to enjoy a form of exercise that requires minimal equipment – a pair of running shoes and a kit. And so it goes, check into the lodging, make sure everyone has a quenching beverage, is tropically content, trade one uniform for another and hit the trail.


Railay's cliffs at sundown
 

Ao Nang and Hat Noppharat Thara Beaches (Krabi province) link up for a world-class run. Combining the two with a brief road link-up comes out at roughly 3.5km (one-way) of mostly flat, litter-free, soft sand tarmac. Hit the dirt road at the corner of Ao Nang, turn left and run through the forest to the ‘Last Café’, cut down to the beach and head to the right. From here it’s 1km of day trippers in swim suits returning from a day attacking the waters. Sundown swimming locals smile, children try to run alongside (often outpacing the subject), then it’s a shortcut through the beach entrance of the Krabi Resort, a left onto the road and around the corner to Hat Noppharat Thara. Now there’s 2 km of sandy bliss to two islands that can be reached by foot when the tide is out. Touch them just to prove you were there then turn around for a view to push you on - and there they are, the stunning, towering cliffs of legendary Railay Bay, giving off a rosy glow as the sun’s evening rays continually change their color. Back they way you came and then you’re there – on the strip, dripping wet and ready for a well deserved beer as the final rays go over the horizon.


The view from Chiang Khong's boardwalk
 

Chiang Khong (Chiang Rai province) sits elegantly on the banks of the mighty Mekong River with the sleepy town of Huai Xai, Laos quietly peering over from the other side. It’s from here you catch a 5km ride out of town along the road to Chiang Saen, abandon craft and begin the trot back to town, passing quiet, quiet countryside, perplexed locals and your reward of the river for making it back to town. Once you hit the main drag at Chiang Khong, beat through 50m of bush down to the riverside boardwalk and move along until you hit the end. Continue along a bit further, along the sandy river’s edge and there’s a bit more boardwalk. Why the two aren’t connected a foreigner will never be able to understand, but that’s the way it is and it provides the perfect excuse to strengthen the legs with an up and down. At the end, turn around, head back, and this time, run up and down every major set of stairs you see (and there’re a good number). Winded, push on that little bit more until you see the most welcoming balcony in town – ‘Bamboo Riverside’. Stagger up one final set of stairs, open the red refrigerator, grab a cold Beer Chang and if you’re lucky enough, the legendary proprietor, Khun Jip will be in attendance and show you how that sport is done.

Hua Hin (Prachuap Khiri Khan province) is a longtime favorite for upscale Thais and a place His Majesty the King calls home for much of the year. It’s a destination that’s never gotten too crazy, sleazy, or out of control as some of the kingdom’s others have. Start on the beach just north of the Palace and put one foot in front of the other. If both feet are touching sand at the same time then you’re definitely not running. If you go the wrong way it won’t last long as Royal Guards will turn you around as serfs aren’t allowed on Royal Beach. The tide’s out and there’s no shortage of width to carry you along. Despite the temporarily receded water, this one’s a bit like a steeplechase. Small streams, pools of ocean that got trapped and rocky corners provide regular challenges. Medium strides turn into big ones then a leap that hopefully looks as good as those you see at track-meets and with any luck you’re over and the sneakers are still dry. Turn around when you wish as this one goes for about 8km, but be sure to remember the journey back still leaves you with half a run.


The author following the less traveled trail
 

Mae Salong (Chiang Rai province) is without a doubt our favorite destination in the kingdom. Perched atop rolling mountains near the Myanmar border, this one-road-town is a place where kids truly walk uphill both ways to school. It’s a place you’re legs earn every step and an easy venue to truly get off the beaten path and a dirt one. Out the back entrance to the Mae Salong Villa, turn right down the hill, left onto the main road and to the end of town as Yunnanese settlers grin, rally you on and chuckle. At the end of town turn left towards the elementary school, then behind it and up the dirt road. Now it’s down along a rough patch, left at the lone tree and then through an Ahka hilltribe village, heading west along the hill. Here beaming red teeth of Bettlenut chewing woman greet and kids trail behind yelling “hello” all the while. Along the ridge, down to the stream, then a final steeeeeep approach to the top. And now your balcony awaits. Sit down, open a cold one, and stare at the terraced Oolong tea fields and the temple shinning from high above on the next mountain over.


Sundown at Khao Lak
 

Khao Lak (Phang-Nga province) was quiet, slowly growing and home to one of the most beautiful beaches in the country. Then December 24, 2004 came and changed everything. The hardest hit by the tsunami, most of Khao Lak’s resorts were no more, many, many persons dead/missing and now it’s even quieter. But the beach is still there and more beautiful than ever. Pick your starting point and go. This one’s long, pretty flat, quite wide and with the odd obstacle to make sure you’re not daydreaming too much. Reflection is easy to do here - timing, how it can be good and bad. Why you’re somewhere at one time and being there another can change your life. Smile; think of the ones you love and where you’re headed.

Bangkapi’s Canals (an eastern suburb of Bangkok) are home and fantastically fascinating. Just off the busy main drag of Srinakarin Road there’s a left turn just before the Esso; take it, then veer right up the small wooden planks and onto your platform. Three feet wide and six above dark, dank canal waters, now you’re on the edge, and this narrow, elevated sidewalk is your track for most of the trip. There’s no time to tune out as each stride holds and obstacle: low hanging roof line, power line, approaching bicycle, sharp turn, goat and gapping hole in the concrete path. Varied faces greet you: classical Thai, Muslim and immigrants originally from India and Bangladesh. The call to prayer roars as you approach the golden dome roof and you realize you’re truly a long way from where you’re originally from. Soak it in as once you step off the path you’re back in the world of vehicles and world-famous traffic jams. Urban escape is a wonderful thing.


Ko Samet's silky soft sand
 

Ko Samet (Rayong province) is one of the closest islands to Bangkok and also one of the country’s most charming. A longtime favorite of weekending Thais, it has icing-sugar-soft sand, bathtub-warm-water and lots of neat beaches. Separated by short jaunts along gnarly paths through the woods and up small cliffs, these beautiful sand-lined bays are short, long, curved and a fun challenge. From ‘Ao Pai’, head west from beach to beach, all the way to ‘Ao Tien’, down to the end, then turn around and do it in reverse, saving a bit of energy for a well-paced sprint at the end to impress those basking on the beach in front of your oceanside bungalow.

 

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