Let’s travel back to 2012, a mere 11 years ago but a very different time. Twitter was still known as Twitter, ChatGPT was but a glint in a developer’s eye so we all had to write our own blog posts (note: this, like all our posts, was entirely written by humans), and the idea of a global pandemic only existed in the most pessimistic dystopian sci-fi. And, most significantly for this article, you couldn’t get an IPA in Bangkok.

In what can be seen as year zero for Thai craft beer, enter two pioneers: beer importer Beervana, who imported the first IPA to Thailand and for which we can all be truly thankful, and Chit Beer, who set up a small microbrewery on the island of Koh Kret and, more importantly, began selling home brew equipment and running home brew classes. For many local brewers, this was the equivalent of The Sex Pistols at Manchester Free Trade Hall, or the arrival of the monolith in 2001.

But the journey hasn’t been easy. Up until November 2022, Thailand’s restrictive brewing laws made it almost impossible for smaller brewers to do business. Small brewers were only allowed to hire up to seven staff and a maximum production capacity of 5 horsepower, whilst brewpubs had to register a large amount of capital and produce a minimum of 100,000 litres per year. This meant that for many small brewers, the only option was to make their beers in neighbouring Cambodia or Vietnam and then import them, the downside being that that incurred high import taxes. Either way, these laws meant that craft beer was way more expensive than local mass-produced beers – three or four times more in many cases.

Nevertheless, the confluence of determined brewers/importers and thirsty consumers eager to drink something different meant that a craft beer scene began to bloom despite the regulations, with brewers either taking one for the team and following the law, exploiting loopholes, or operating in the shadows. Brands such as Hair of the Dog, Fat Cow and Craft sold imported quality beers from overseas and showcased local brewers and, despite the regulatory environment, the craft scene has really taken off in recent years.

Within this square, many of Bangkok’s best hotels, restaurants, malls, cinemas and tourist attractions are located, and if they’re not, it’s a good bet that transport to them will be.

Two of Bangkok’s most densely packed hotel areas are along Sukhumvit Road and along the Chao Phraya River, and we often get asked which one is better. Well, how long is a piece a string? It’s a good question to ask, but a hard one to answer. Both places offer their own unique settings, have their own hidden corners and great hotels, and both places have drawbacks and compromises that will have to be made. Let’s look at them in greater detail:

Sukhumvit Road

Sukhumvit is one of the longest roads in the world, and goes all the way to the Cambodian border! However, most of the action is stuffed between soi 1 and soi 71-ish (Soi is Thai for road). A hundred years ago it wasn’t much more than a dirt track but today it’s Bangkok’s Broadway. Lined with tall office towers and five-star hotels – and in between those countless restaurants, massage shops, tailors and stores – it’s pretty easy to stay on Sukhumvit and have a great, if not very adventurous, Bangkok escape. With even-numbered sois on one side and odd-numbered sois on the other, it’s easy to navigate. On top of that, each soi is its own little community, and no two are ever the same. It’s a great area to explore!

Pros: The biggest one is the BTS skytrain running right down the middle of Sukhumvit, which makes it a snap to get in and out, and avoid Bangkok’s famously bad rush hour traffic. Lots to eat, lots to drink, and English is widely spoken.

Cons: No matter where you think you are, this ain’t really Thailand. With light from McDonalds and Starbucks logos lighting up the sidewalk, some of Bangkok’s most notable red light districts, and plenty of touts begging you to buy a suit or gems or have your cards read, saying you experienced Thailand on Sukhumvit is like saying you saw Star Wars on your iPhone.