Bia Hoi: Vietnam's Original Craft Beer

The post Bia Hoi: Vietnam’s Original Craft Beer first appeared on Smiling Albino.

In Thailand, where a good bottle of beer is enjoyed even more than a good bottle of wine in France, you have a variety of choices – brands from the big Thai breweries like Singha or Chang, imported brands like Heineken or Beerlao, and many European and American brands,  big and small – that can run upwards of $12 per bottle.

But what about the little guys in Thailand, the craft beers, the small breweries that don’t have giant boilers and an international distribution network? Well, you’ll find it hard to get those, because home brewing or craft brewing (the same thing, for our purposes) is illegal in Thailand.

What you’ll also be surprised to learn is that Thailand’s craft beer scene doesn’t only exist – it’s thriving. So who are these law-breaking yeast wranglers?

“The illegality of it all is a legacy of Thailand’s early industrial period,” says Khun Wichit Saiklao, founder of Chitbeer, the ‘godfather’ of Thailand’s craft brew scene. “Back then everything used to be a monopoly, but while western countries moved away from that model (think Standard Oil, Microsoft, Bell Telephone, all penalized for being too big), Thailand, for a variety of reasons, did not.”

Hence, the dominance of the market by a few big breweries.

But with an increasingly well-traveled population bringing back a thirst for (and expertise in) whipping up homemade batches of suds, it was only a matter of time until an idea grew into a hobby, and a hobby into a genuine movement.

“I have 100 students who come to the classes that I hold every month on Ko Kret [an island in the middle of the Chao Phraya River in the province directly north of Bangkok] to learn how to brew. I’d say there are about 20 or 30 brands right now doing small runs of product,” says Khun Wichit. That number is growing, and if you know where to find them, beer connoisseurs have a good selection to choose from.

The obvious question is – aren’t they scared of being busted by the cops? He laughs when I ask. “Well, I think it’s more of an issue that the Revenue Department has to take up. Police are just regular Joes like the rest of us – they like beer just like you and me, so they’re less concerned with kicking the door down. That being said, they do follow orders, and we do wonder when – not if – the order will eventually come.” Indeed, it has before, and many brewers have had to explain themselves to police, usually after paying a fine.

But Khun Wichit is optimistic that change will come. “The social and economic benefits of a vibrant beer scene have been proven in other countries. I wrote a letter to my friends and fans of my beer that we will strive for the full legality of our hobby by 2020, so we have five years to change the mindset.”

But one thing is still of utmost importance to Khun Wichit, and it’s a question he and his craft brewing friends ask themselves all the time: are we still having fun? “It’s not about money, it’s about the skill, time, knowledge, and patience that goes into making a batch of good beer. If we’re not having fun while we do it, then what’s the point?”

One more refreshing reason to visit or return to Bangkok if you’re not already here.

The post Thailand’s Burgeoning Craft Beer Landscape first appeared on Smiling Albino.

Vietnam is a popular destination for many adventurous tourists to enjoy street food, pagodas and beautiful landscapes. One other distinct experience is the Bia Hoi beer which predominantly can be found along the narrow streets of Hanoi. Bia Hoi is a fast produced and light beer made of rice, malt and sugar, often served more or less directly at the street. Bia Hoi is not just the beer itself, it’s also a social concept and experience which includes beer and food, consumed by all social groups under simple circumstances. It’s a tradition that many deals and contracts are sealed during long dinners with food and plenty of beer.

Booming Microbrewery and Bia Hoi Culture

Beer is not only a symbol here, it is also a bearer of culture and a symbol for the new Vietnam, a country that takes in new influences but values local culture. There are about 45 microbreweries in Vietnam, whereof 35 are making Czech inspired beer and the other 10 are influenced by German beer culture. Compared with Bia Hoi and international bottled beers, these beers contain much more malt and hops and are therefore much more full bodied and tasty. Vietnam has a long history with the former allies Czechoslovakia and East Germany and the biggest diasporas are in today’s Czech Republic and Germany. Most of today’s brewers have lived in Czech Republic and brought beer traditions and knowledge with them back to Vietnam.

They brought the ingredients and knowledge of how to make the beer, but even if recipes and ingredients are the same, local water and weather are important to the taste. After a few years many brewers realized that taste references depend on where in the world you are and in particular the local food. So some small changes have been made to adopt the beer after local culture and demand. The result? Amazing beers, well balanced and tasty. Every brewery is making their own beer and variations are not only between breweries but also differing throughout the year depending on yeasting and storage temperatures. The beers are unique and alive, a result of experience and local conditions.

Following the Beer Trail in Vietnam

There is a brewery in every holiday location, but they are easy to miss because of all the other beer establishments in the country. Worldwide Vietnam is known for its beer consumption which is estimated at about 42 litres of beer a year per person. With almost 90 million people you realize that the microbreweries represent less than 1 % of beer consumption. As known today, there are 26 microbreweries in Hanoi, 12 in Ho Chi Minh City and then 7 more throughout Vietnam. You can find a microbrewery in almost every popular travel destination, like in Phu Quoc, Mui Ne, Nha Trang, Da Nang, Da Lat and also the coastal city of Hai Phong which can be visited on the way back from your holiday at the astonishing Halong Bay. On the way back from Halong Bay to Hanoi, make a short stop in the city of Hai Duong, famous for its diamond polishers, and visit the local microbrewery to enjoy two tasty beers before you tackle the culinary challenges in the city.

Hidden Treasures

The few foreign visitors in search of Bia Hoi that have found their way to one of the microbreweries are taken by surprise when they realize that the beers here in Vietnam are much better than many beers at home. The amount of malt is higher than in normal lagers and the hops is carefully added at different times of the beer making process. The breweries are quite small and only a few of them have a web presence and try to reach out to a big crowd. In a city like Hanoi, with 26 microbreweries, each one of them gathers only local attention with occasionally a few expats and tourists.

The interest for beer in Vietnam is huge but also more modest than in Europe and North America where the hype for special beers is strong and microbreweries are popping up everywhere. It has almost gone too far to the point where, in some pubs, it’s impossible to order a regular beer.

Focus on Making Good Beer before Making Money

The brewers in Vietnam invest a lot of time and effort in making good beer. Importing both hops and malt from Czech Republic and Germany requires planning but most importantly; a strong dedication and passion for beer. The microbreweries are there, but not easy to find, so it’s up to the customers to find their way to them. The price of a glass of beer at the breweries is about 35,000 VND, less than 2 USD, despite all the hours creating it and knowledge that is behind the wonderful beer you hold in your hand.

The future is… not so bright, its yellow, semi-bright and with a thick foam on it, full flavors from hops and malt and locally produced. Keep an eye on this beer culture happening in Vietnam and put some effort into finding these dedicated beer makers. Don’t miss this culinary experience!
Do you want some Bia Hoi? If you are a beer aficionado, and traveller contact Smiling Albino, we can expertly plan your touring around Bia Hoi highlights and even Microbrewery visits throughout Vietnam.

Credits

Written by: Jonathan Gharbi | Jonathan Gharbi is a Swedish beer blogger who lives in Hanoi and travels Vietnam in his search for microbreweries. Read his blog here: www.beervn.com

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The post Bia Hoi: All About Vietnam Beer Culture first appeared on Smiling Albino.