The treaty liberalized foreign trade in Siam, basically opening up a rich vein for traders of commercial and agricultural goods. One of these traders, a fellow by the name of Phraya Phisan Supphaphon, decided to invest his money in a steamship and build a pier and block of office buildings for Chinese businesses. It was the biggest pier in Bangkok, and thrived for decades until its usefulness waned with the formation of the Port Authority of Thailand in 1951. It soon fell into disrepair, sagging under the weight of decades of rain and neglect.

We’ve written before about what usually happens in cases like this. Here’s a hint: it starts with bulldozer and ends in condo. But thankfully, a clearer vision prevailed, and Bangkok is the better for it.

In November of 2017 the doors opened on Lhong 1919, the renovated warehouse complex that had been forgotten and ignored for the past 50 years. The Wanglee family, who has owned the property since Phraya Phisan left the picture, had decided that instead of building a parking lot or condo block, they would rather reintroduce Thailand to the fabulous history of this forgotten property.

A full renovation began, with Thailand’s top artisans – some of whom were trained in Naples, Italy – restoring murals, uncovering intricate stonework, and reinforcing the original wooden beams that held the roof in place without nails.

The old warehouses have now been turned into event, dining, and co-working spaces. The Chinese sea goddess Mazu takes center stage at a magnificently restored shrine in the main building, while boutiques sell unique merchandise in high-ceilinged shophouses. Once the location of offices and living spaces, they have been carefully stripped down to their original brickwork, providing a gorgeous, raw backdrop for getting your shop on.

When you’re done checking out the murals, woodwork, and crazy attention to detail (those gold decorative flourishes aren’t painted – that’s real gold leaf applied by hand), you can head down to the riverside and relax with a meal, a drink, or just sit around and watch the river traffic go by.

We’ll be honest – we sometimes lose faith when we see how much of Bangkok’s history is being paved over for new development, which is why it’s always a challenge to keep our tours of historical sites updated with new (er, old) content. But with places like Lhong 1919 opening up, we’re hoping it will inspire others to maintain and even restore the many, many other historic sites in Bangkok that we love showing our customers.

In the meantime, we’ll see you at Lhong 1919. We’ll be the ones sipping a cocktail down by the riverfront.

The post Bangkok’s Newest Living Museum – Lhong 1919 is a Trip Back to 1850s Siam first appeared on Smiling Albino.

As Smiling Albino calls Thailand home, we have a special affinity for the steamy, huge, wonderfully complex capital. Indeed, one of the best parts of our job is peeling back the layers of time like an onion, showing guests the fascinating history that lurks in both the unknown corners and in broad daylight. You just need to know where to look.

With that in mind, our friend Steve Van Beek has released the 4th edition of one of our favorite books on Thailand, called Bangkok Then and Now.

Steve is an old Bangkok hand and in his forty-plus years in Bangkok, he has amassed an impressive collection of photos and information on the capital. He uses this knowledge in his book, which features side-by-side comparisons of photos taken decades apart from the same spot.

In fact, we love the book so much that we wanted to feature some of our favorite photos on this website! We even downloaded a cool plug-in that lets you fade between the two pictures to more easily compare them.

Below is the main building of the Siam Society on Asok Road, a scholarly association that promotes Thai culture. The Terminal 21 shopping mall looms large in the background, which, back in 1933 as you can see, was just beautiful rice fields

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The picture below was taken from Wat Saket (The Golden Mount) looking west toward the Grand Palace, which you can see in the top right corner along the horizon. If you look closely in both pictures you can see Sao Ching Chaa (The Giant Swing). This picture was most likely taken pre-1920, because in that year the Giant Swing was moved a bit closer to Wat Suthat (the big temple left of center), and if you switch back between pictures you can see the swing’s location change.

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Another view of Wat Saket, this time from Ratchadamnoen Road. Note Mahakan Fort, peeking up over the old city walls which once surrounded the city, protecting it from invasion. Also, you can’t really see it but on the left side of the old picture is 1 of 16 gates that used to lead out of the old city and into the wilds of rural Bangkok, which back, then wasn’t much more than cattle trails and rice fields.

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One of my favorites, looking straight down Sathorn Road toward the river. It was taken in 1946.

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This one is looking down on the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel and Phadung Krung Kasem Canal, which was dug in the early 1850s as the third defensive canal around the old city. The stately old building in the center of the picture was the old HSBC HQ, and was demolished in the 1980s when the Sheraton was built. The buildings at 2 and 3 o’clock to the HSBC building are still there, and are currently undergoing major renovation. Can’t wait to see them when they’re done!

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This picture of the Victory Monument was taken in 1946. Back then, this area was waaaaay out in the northern boonies of the city, but as you can see with the update, it’s not so remote these days. Bonus fact: Do you know what victory the monument celebrates? The Franco-Thai War, which was fought between Thailand and France in 1940 and lasted 8 months.

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Another favorite, again taken in 1946. This is looking south along Ratchaprarop Road; in the new picture you can see it going under the overpass (which is Phetchburi Road). The Novotel Platinum is the curved building on the corner and to its right is the Platinum Mall. Just out of frame at the top is Central World, one of Asia’s biggest shopping malls.

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Steve’s book is really great, and in addition to the pictures, it has tons of info about Bangkok from the early 1900s, including clippings from newspapers, wanted ads, and letters from locals and foreigners alike. A must-read for anyone who loves the city. You can find it in most book stores in Bangkok – Asia Books and Kinokuniya especially.

Best of all, we can show you these spots in person on our day tours!

The post Bangkok Then and Now first appeared on Smiling Albino.

Around the full moon at the end of the Buddhist Lent in October, tens of thousands of people make the trek to a cool, misty expanse where the mighty Mekong River marks the border between Thailand and Laos. They’re there to witness firsthand a phenomenon that has been observed for at least 100 years – the mysterious Naga Fireball. A conclusive explanation of the event has yet to be agreed upon. During this event visitors say that one can see balls of light shoot up from the river, rising high up into the night sky along a 250 km stretch east of the Laos capital Vientiane and Thailand’s popular border town of Nong Khai, which sit near each other on opposite sides of the Mekong. Some years, people will see hundreds of Naga Fireballs in a night, other years only a dozen or so across many nights.

Legend says that the fireballs are produced by the Naga, a large mythical serpent that features prominently in Laotian mythology and culture, but for years skeptics have been trying to find an alternate explanation. In 2002 a Thai TV program claimed that the fireballs were produced by tracer fire from Laos. This was furiously refuted by local villagers on both sides of the river who were both offended at the insinuation that the Naga doesn’t exist, as well as the suggestion that they were trying to pull the wool over people’s eyes. Another explanation says that the fireballs are a result of flammable methane or phosphine gas generated by plant and animal life on the river bed, or even some sort of bioluminescent creatures flying off into the sky. But no matter which explanation you buy into, the only thing that’s for sure is that there’s been no definitive scientific explanation of the phenomenon either way, despite experts and high-tech equipment making the rounds every year.

Although the mysterious light-show has been happening for decades, it’s only since the early 1990s that people have begun to throng to the best viewing areas along the river banks, eating, drinking, dancing, and socializing in a Thai version of a tailgate party. Indeed, some savvy (unscrupulous?) people sometimes set off fireworks to the great delight of the crowd, no doubt keeping the masses there to cheer, and wait, and spend money. [Tweet “This year’s Naga Fireball event on the Mekong River takes place Oct. 27-29.”] This year’s full moon will be on Tuesday October 27, 2015 and the viewing will be its best from October 27 through 29. The Smiling Albino team here on the ground in Bangkok can assist you with planning your travels around any of these unique Festivals found throughout Asia. If you’re in Thailand or Laos in early October during the full moon, go take a look and see if you can explain it. Let us know what you come back with, because we’re not sure either!

The post Naga Fireball Festival first appeared on Smiling Albino.

While there aren’t a huge amount of things to see or climb or photograph, what is there is still an interesting window into historical importance of the area. Khe Sanh Combat Base is largely overgrown with jungle, but in 1968 its attack was one of the main distractions leading up to the famous Tet Offensive. There’s a small museum and artifacts from the war, including the original runway. Purists will appreciate a visit to Truong Son National Cemetery, where 10,000 graves and various monuments salute the dead. The Mine Action Visitor Center is a pretty good museum highlighting the very real dangers that UXO (unexploded ordinance) has had – and still has – on the populace. Lastly there’s the Vinh Moc Tunnels. While not as famous as the Cu Chi Tunnels, they’re still quite impressive. When US forces started bombing, an entire village dug tunnels up to 30m deep to escape. Family rooms, kitchens, hospitals, even delivery rooms are spread out across nearly two kilometers of passageways. The Ben Hai River is an important site because it is the dividing line between north and south Vietnam. A new monument has recently been erected at the bridge over the Ben Hai River providing good photo opportunities. 

For most visitors who have a passing interest in the Vietnam War, the DMZ will be interesting, but not something to write home about. The Vinh Moc tunnels are something tangible that lends itself to dramatic photos, but other attractions like the combat base, museum, “rock mound” and various bunkers are less impactful and lose much of their appeal in a photograph.

We feel this historical landmark and the human sacrifice during the war deserves a bit more and the average visitor may be left underwhelmed and disappointed (especially if they took the ten-hour bus tour).

However, if you’re a Vietnam War buff or student of history – especially Vietnam’s history – the DMZ will likely take on a whole other level of relevance. Those who have a familiarity with the places, names and battles that took place in this area will find a great deal more value in a visit than the average tourist. Smiling Albino can arrange transportation along with an historian or expert guide to ensure you get the most out of a visit.

The post Run DMZ: Is it Worth visiting Vietnam’s Demilitarized Zone? first appeared on Smiling Albino.

I had the great honor of hosting the first Destination Thailand festival held in Toronto last month and had an absolutely fantastic time.

The Destination Thailand event was organized by the Thai Embassy in Ottawa to promote Thai culture to the world, and what better place to start than Toronto, Canada. It was a wonderful big event, but what struck me most about the day was how involved and excited the people who participated were. We had a wide assortment of participants from across the Kingdom: Thai traditional dancers, musicians, culinary artists, boxers, and massage therapists were just some of them. The Smiling Albino team from Calgary was even able to come participate along with some long time SA customers and fans who came to support.

It was an amazing and energetic crowd and it reminded me of how special the people of Thailand and Southeast Asia are and how fortunate we have been to have had the opportunity over the past decade to interact with a great assortment of people – clients, partners and employees alike.

Many of you have met some of these special people over the years – Mr. Jeep in Chiang Khong, Mr. Bird in Chiang Rai, or Mr. Barang in Cambodia, Oi in Krabi, Lam in Vietnam, Mads and Clare in Nepal… That’s not even to mention all of you who have booked a trip with Smiling Albino have been touched by the people who work in our office and put the pieces of the puzzle in place to make sure you have an outstanding holiday.

Each of these people has made a difference to countless numbers of our friends and customers by just being their vibrant, enthusiastic and genuine selves.

I’m taking this opportunity to thank all of these people who have touched my life and so many of your lives through your experiences with Smiling Albino. I would love to hear back from you about any anecdotes that have stuck with you over the years since your first Smiling Albino experience about some of these special people so that I reflect back on them the impact that they have had on you. Please send them to me at dan@smilingalbino.com

I am lucky to be part of this, and thank you!

Safe travels!

Daniel B. Fraser

Adventure Highlights:

Surveying Chiang Dao

When we say that we personally scout every area, eat at each restaurant, source and train every guide/host, sleep in every hotel bed, ride the bikes, board the boats and scratch the elephants, we really do take our wholehearted promise to you, the traveller, seriously. We work hard to ensure every tour is highly original, well thought out, oozing value, and most importantly a trip we’d take our friends and families on.

During the seasons when there are fewer clients travelling and, at times, adverse weather conditions, our adventure specialists are often out in the field (literally) to discover and survey new resorts, sites of interest, outdoor activities and routes.

This is a tale of our intrepid Adventure Consultant, Queen who, along with our local guide, Eak, set out to survey a new trekking route in Chiang Dao.

Chiang Dao, an area dominated by national parks and a town of the same name, 80 km north of Chiang Mai, is regarded by many as the most beautiful scenery in Northern Thailand.

Chiang Dao’s most striking feature is Doi Chiang Dao, Thailand’s third highest mountain at 2225 m, which plays host to an abundance of wildlife and nature. It is one of the lesser-visited, but nonetheless interesting Thai birding sites. The area is also known for it’s famous caves.

Queen and Eak were on the final day of their survey of the region, driving into the jungle along a newly identified trekking route. Monsoonal rains, however, proved too unyielding, and their truck got hopelessly stuck in the rain-saturated red clay track. It took them hours to free themselves, and finally with the help of friendly passing locals, they made it out and back to Chiang Mai where Queen finally caught her thrice re-booked flight back to Bangkok.

The first-hand observations, incredible photos and new friends Queen acquired on this survey were immediately incorporated into our Northern Thailand Adventure Tours. Come the dry season, this trek will be a unique and rewarding experience.

Surveying Laos, in photos

Our Director of Sales and Business Development, Stephanie, spent a week surveying new resorts, activities and locations in Laos earlier this month, and she captured some great shots, a sampling of what our Classic Laos Trip has to offer. Don’t hesitate to contact our team for up-to-date Laos travel and accommodation information. Click here for inquiries.

What’s Going On

New Dynamic App Explores European Heritage Sites in Thailand

The European Union launched the “European Heritage Map and Cultural Calendar” smart phone application on October 13^th, 2014. This content-rich app describes, illustrates and locates 250 European heritage sites throughout Thailand. The criteria for the entries were “remarkable locations that share common heritage resulting from centuries of Thai-European interactions”.

Smiling Albino’s Daniel Fraser emceed the intimate event, hosted by H.E. Mr. Luis Barreira de Sousa, Portuguese Ambassador to Thailand, on behalf of the European National Institutes for Cultural Thailand at his splendid riverside residence, the oldest European Diplomatic mission in Bangkok.

The comprehensive app, developed by Talisman Media, is a valuable resource for history enthusiasts, locals and tourists alike. It also provides an up-to-date “European Cultural Calendar” that lists up-coming events organized by EU member States’ embassies and cultural institutes in Thailand

It’s a really cool free app! Search “European Heritage” in your app store now. Available for Android and iOS.

Smiling Albino Wins Expat Entrepreneur Award

On October 14th, Bangkok’s expat community gathered at the Rembrandt Hotel to drink free beer recognize outstanding expat businesses. For the first time, companies established in Thailand by the country’s expatriate community were honoured for their creativity, ingenuity, excellence and proven success in The Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014. Supported by The BigChilli Magazine in conjunction with BNOW, Bangkok’s networking community group, the Award highlighted the contribution foreign operated businesses make to Thailand’s economy.

The awards night was well-attended, and as our own Adventurer-in-chief, Daniel Fraser was hosting a trip, SA’s Marketing Mahout, Andrew Clark was there to accept the award on behalf of the Smiling Albino team. Smiling Albino thanks all who participated.

PURE Life Experiences 2014

We will be back at PURE LIfe Experiences 2014, November 10-13 in Marrekech. We look forward to seeing you there at the global marketplace of high-end experiential travel!

New Connections

Soneva Kiri

Soneva Kiri is pleased to announce a new direct flight service to Siem Riep. Launching on 16th November 2014 with a special introductory offer! Two flights a week linking Indo China to the beautiful beaches of Koh Kood.

Halong Bay

Seaplane Flights are now available from Hanoi airport to Halong Bay! A 30-minute flight or 45 minutes with some sight-seeing. Reasonably priced, quick and easy with fabulous aerial views over the countryside and experience the thrill of a water landing at the Tuan Chau Island Marina.

Contact Smiling Albino today for all your travel needs.

The post People Drive Adventures – Albino Smiles Oct., 2014 first appeared on Smiling Albino.