Where Should I Stay in Bangkok: Sukhumvit or Riverside?

Bangkok is a vast city – like, really huge. However, it’s safe to say that most visitors – and a good chunk of Bangkok’s expats – spend much of their time within a relatively small area.

Within this square, many of Bangkok’s best hotels, restaurants, malls, cinemas and tourist attractions are located, and if they’re not, it’s a good bet that transport to them will be.

Two of Bangkok’s most densely packed hotel areas are along Sukhumvit Road and along the Chao Phraya River, and we often get asked which one is better. Well, how long is a piece a string? It’s a good question to ask, but a hard one to answer. Both places offer their own unique settings, have their own hidden corners and great hotels, and both places have drawbacks and compromises that will have to be made. Let’s look at them in greater detail:

 

Sukhumvit Road

Sukhumvit is one of the longest roads in the world, and goes all the way to the Cambodian border! However, most of the action is stuffed between soi 1 and soi 71-ish (Soi is Thai for road). A hundred years ago it wasn’t much more than a dirt track but today it’s Bangkok’s Broadway. Lined with tall office towers and five-star hotels – and in between those countless restaurants, massage shops, tailors and stores – it’s pretty easy to stay on Sukhumvit and have a great, if not very adventurous, Bangkok escape. With even-numbered sois on one side and odd-numbered sois on the other, it’s easy to navigate. On top of that, each soi is its own little community, and no two are ever the same. It’s a great area to explore!

Pros: The biggest one is the BTS skytrain running right down the middle of Sukhumvit, which makes it a snap to get in and out, and avoid Bangkok’s famously bad rush hour traffic. Lots to eat, lots to drink, and English is widely spoken.

Cons: No matter where you think you are, this ain’t really Thailand. With light from McDonalds and Starbucks logos lighting up the sidewalk, some of Bangkok’s most notable red light districts, and plenty of touts begging you to buy a suit or gems or have your cards read, saying you experienced Thailand on Sukhumvit is like saying you saw Star Wars on your iPhone.

Chao Phraya River

Called the River of Kings, the mighty Chao Phraya has been Bangkok’s lifeblood for centuries. Before the roads and highways and airports, this was Thailand’s link to the world. The riverside communities that line it go back centuries, and are responsible for Bangkok becoming the city it is today. The Bangkok (east) side is where most of city’s best known luxury hotels are (including The Siam and the Mandarin Oriental), while the Thonburi (west) side is largely undeveloped, at least in terms of tourist infrastructure, although this is changing fast with the opening of the lavish Icon Siam complex. But no matter where you stay, daily life on the river is a unique and bustling experience, and it’s easy to spend a few hours simply sipping a drink and watching it all play out.

Pros: Great views, constant breeze, and a great opportunity to take the cheap and scenic river taxi, not to mention easy access to those lovely khlong tours that are always a fun afternoon. Easy access to interesting areas such as Chinatown and Rattanokosin Island (for the Grand Palace, Wat Pho etc). Lots of little sois and streets to explore, and if you’re staying near Saphan Taksin Bridge, you might even get a great fireworks show for no reason.

Cons: Unless you know where the MRT and BTS stations are and how best to get there, it’s often a pain getting in and out of the area to see things. Similarly, unless you know how to find the good, authentic restaurants, you might be stuck eating at more expensive restaurants that cater to lost tourists. Also, lots of one-way streets around here – if your taxi driver gets turned around, it’s often an adventure getting back to where you started!

Ready to plan your Thai adventure? Contact Us and one of our adventure travel consultants can help you plan the perfect vacation and recommend great hotels in either of the two key areas!

The post Where Should I Stay in Bangkok: Sukhumvit or Riverside?​ first appeared on Smiling Albino.

These days it’s not unusual to see Christmas decorations going up right around the time the Halloween decorations come down. As the malls start playing carols and trees start going up, those in western countries might think they have a clear monopoly on the celebration of Christmas. But maybe not.

It may surprise you, but some of the most colourful and over-the-top Christmas celebrations you can find are in Asia. Although most people think of lush mountain treks, steamy markets, or sunbaked sand and blue water, truth is, many of Asia’s biggest cities – especially those that cater to tourists – give Christmas their full attention.

For westerners, Christmas is a holiday borne out of religion and nurtured by family, travel, and special traditions that include everything from food to music to mistletoe. But for Asians – most of whom are Buddhist – Christmas is about lights, sound, colour, decoration, fun – and not a small amount of photos.

Of course, for westerners from colder climes, the most shocking thing might be standing in the shadow of a palm tree while framing the perfect shot of a (fake) Christmas tree, all the while trying to ignore how hot it is.

In cities with a large concentration of tourist-friendly malls, Christmas in Asia is inescapable. In Singapore, shoppers can spend literally hours walking from mall to interconnected mall without ever stepping foot outside. In Bangkok, Central World proudly displays an outdoor Christmas landscape that includes a tree over a dozen meters tall. In Ho Chi Minh City, the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral and area around the Central Post Office are especially nice to wander and take pictures.

The great thing about it is the quaint innocence with which it all goes down. Christmas carols are played, but more for their peppy tone than any lyrical significance. Fake snow is sometimes sprayed into window corners, but it’s not really clear why when it’s 32°C. And like we mentioned earlier – you’ll be hard pressed to find anyone not taking selfies with the lights and decorations. For instance, one prominent display along Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Road this year includes hundreds of 3-foot high Snoopy statues with Santa hats. Why? Because Christmas in Asia.

Not enough? How about this – just a few weeks ago Bangkok set a world record for having the largest amount of elves gather in a single place! It took 1,792 kids to do it, but it was done, and even certified by Guinness.

[Tweet “Christmas in Asia: carols, snoopy and record-setting elf gatherings”]

Sure, if you get away from the malls you’ll probably struggle to find any candy canes or star-topped pine trees, but if it’s carols and holiday cheer you want, Asia sure knows how to put on a show. And if you tire of the merriment, the beach is never too far away.

The team at Smiling Albino wishes you all very happy holidays, safe travels and lots of festive cheer!

The post Christmas in Asia first appeared on Smiling Albino.

There are few Asian foods with identities as closely tied to their home country than Pho, the Vietnamese national dish made with rice noodles, meat, and broth seasoned with various types of herbs and spices. Not bad for a dish that only originated in the early 20th century. The dish has gone through various iterations since then, and is now available on every street corner in every village in the country. Which, obviously, is great news.

The first thing to keep in mind is that westerners have butchered the name – it’s no pronounced fow but actually fuhh. Remember that – if one can’t even make an honest attempt at the name of a dish, they’re forbidden from eating it (Smiling Albino rule #28).

While wandering around HCMC looking at temples and drinking strong coffee, we’ve sampled all types of pho, from crowded restaurants to single-chef food stalls. Most of the time it’s simply about the noodles, but there are other things to consider – atmosphere, crowd, and overall look of the place, too. So while no two tastes, moods, days, or personal tastes are ever alike, here are four places you’ll never have to work hard to convince us to go back to.

Pho Le
413-414 Nguyen Trai Street P.7,Q5

One of the more popular places in the city to pull up a stool, the giant neon sign over the door doesn’t just say Pho Le, it screams PHO LE! You know you’ve found a good place, too, when the crowd oozes out on the sidewalk and even into the street. Many of the ingredients are made by hand, and it’s what keeps people coming back for more, locals and tourists alike.

Pho Quynh
323 Pham Ngu Lao

There are a few locations of this Saigon mainstay, but we love the (very) bright yellow building just across from Pham Ngu Lao Park. Cheap and known for its large portion sizes and long open hours, the decor isn’t much but the food is pretty awesome. Load your pho up with veggies too, like fresh basil and lots of bean sprouts, to bring out the taste. We usually finish things off with banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich using French bread), which are also really good.

Ben Thanh Market
Bến Thành, Quận 1

One of the city’s biggest and most popular markets is, no surprise, a great place to try some local food. Talented chefs whip up thousands of bowls of pho every day to feed hungry shoppers, and as it’s a tourist hotspot, many of the menus are in English. There are a lot of dishes to choose from – some of them largely unknown to tourists – but stick with the pho and you can’t go wrong.

Phở Thanh Bình
18B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
District 3

Just a few blocks away from the Saigon Zoo, this is the place we head to when we want some upscale noodles. Hefty portions and really tender beef make every trip worthwhile, not to mention piles of veggies for garnish and some great side dishes you won’t find anywhere else. Prices here are more expensive than almost anywhere else, and if you asked them why they’d likely say it was because their noodles are the best in Vietnam. But, there’s an (unsubstantiated) rumor that if you get sick from eating here, they’ll pay your medical bills. It’s hard to argue with that.

Related links

Vietnam: North, South and the Middle

Snooping Around Saigon

The post Four Great Pho Joints in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) first appeared on Smiling Albino.