“Somtum: crunchy, juicy, fresh, and strangely addictive ”

Located a stone’s throw from the Golden Mount temple and just six minutes’ walk from Phanfa Bridge boat terminal, a trip to this much-loved, half a century old pad Thai institution makes a great end to a cultural day trip. Order a heaped plate of their signature egg pad Thai for 60THB (US$2) and enjoy. For a slightly elevated version of the classic, check out Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu (Opus Building, 139 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 10:00-2:00) on trendy Thonglor. Here Thai-American chef Andy Yang jazzes things up with the addition of Berkshire pork for lip-smacking results. Priced at 90THB (US$3), it may be a slight hike on your standard 30-40THB (US$1+) street versions, but it’s well worth it for the quality. 

Next up, something a little more rooted in Thai culture: somtum. If you’ve never heard of it, you’ll soon be aware of its presence when wandering the streets of Bangkok. Widely considered Thailand’s true national dish, this salad is comprised of crunchy strips of unripe, green papaya, juicy tomatoes, fresh long beans, chewy dried prawns, fish sauce, chilies, palm sugar, garlic, peanuts and lime for a strangely addictive and uniquely Thai mix of sweet, salty, spicy and sour. There’s no better place to get a taste for it than at northeast-native restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge’s Somtum Der (5 Saladaeng Road. Open daily 11-14:30; 16:30-22:30). Now with branches in as far flung places as Tokyo and New York – the latter of which held a Michelin star for a time – the original shop-house still stands on Sala Daeng, serving up a dizzying menu of 20 somtum varieties (from 55THB/US$1.80) alongside other classic Isaan (northern Thai) dishes. Try the somtum moo yang (papaya salad with grilled pork neck, 85THB/US$2.75). 

Expat: So, you’ve had your fill of somtum and are well versed in the intricacies of pad Thai. Now it’s time to delve a little deeper and discover the wealth of delicacies that Thailand has to offer. From street food to fine dining, regional specialties to country-wide favourites, there is almost limitless ground to explore. So, where to start? The northern staple, khao soi, seems a pretty good option. With its roots in Chinese-Muslim culture, this rich, spicy and coconutty curry-based noodle dish is traditionally served with chicken and is topped with incredible crispy egg noodles. Though sourcing a decent rendition outside the Lanna (northern) capital of Chiang Mai can be tricky, you’ll find an excellent attempt at Ong Tong Khao Soi (17 Phahonyothin Soi 7. Open daily 10:30-20:30) in Bangkok’s Ari area. Order the khao soi gai (chicken, 70 THB/US$2.30) and enjoy. 

Now you’ve got a taste of the north, it’s time to travel south and head to Baan Ice (115 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 11:00-22:00). Helmed by Supaksorn Jongsiri – also of what is currently Bangkok’s most difficult-to-book restaurant Sorn – here you can get a taste of his delicious stir-fried prawns with sataw beans (330THB/US$7.10) and khua kling moo (spicy, dry stir-fried pork with curry paste. 180THB/US$5.80) without the months-long wait list. An equally excellent place to sample the wonders of southern fare is Khua Kling Pak Sod (various locations. Original branch at 21/32 Sukhumvit Soi 23. Open daily 11:00-22:30). So, loosen your belt buckle and dig in. 

On that note, though street food and Bangkok are practically synonymous, the city’s burgeoning fine dining culture is not to be overlooked. If you can’t get a table at Sorn (2700 THB/US$87 for a five-course menu), spend 3590 THB (US$116) at Le Du and you’ll be treated to six awesome courses of dainty tasting portions of expertly executed modern Thai cuisine. This is a chance to experience Thai food on a whole new level and is not to be missed – even if it means scrimping on 40 THB street food meals for the rest of your trip!

The post Tourist vs Expat: Must Eat Dishes in Bangkok first appeared on Smiling Albino.

Vietnam has seen remarkable development in the last decade, in part fueled by a tourism boom. Along with economic growth, popular western TV shows like Top Gear, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown and President Obama’s 2016 visit have put Vietnam in the international media spotlight, with a particularly focus on its cuisine.

The quality of Vietnam’s restaurants have skyrocketed recently driven by competition to satiate growing tourists’ foodie demands, overseas Vietnamese returning with new knowledge and experiences and celebrity foreign chefs opening restaurants.

While Smiling Albino certainly enjoys seeking out the tiny spots serving mama’s recipes and holes in the wall known only to a few, we also enjoy including a bit of pizazz into our dining experiences. Now is a delicious time to visit Vietnam, because the food scene here is growing up – and out – in a big way.

If you want a great starter for the world of Vietnamese food, let Smiling Albino introduce you to Duc Tran, more commonly known as Chef Duc. Leaving Vietnam at 15, he spent time in a Malaysian refugee camp, rode horses in Texas, backpacked through Europe, and surfed Australia and Latin America before coming back to Vietnam to put his own twist on cooking.

His three restaurants in Hoi An are reservation only, and his recipes mix old school ingredients with modern culinary trends. Private classes are a must; as you combine the ingredients you bought on a guided trip to the local market into a world-class meal, Chef Duc educates and entertains with the techniques he uses in his kitchens every day. Mango Mango overlooking the river in Hoi An is Chef Duc’s flagship restaurant and he has recently opened a fourth in Da Nang called Fat Fish.

Moving right along, you can treat yourself to a superb meal created by Vietnam’s only Michelin-starred chef, Pierre Gagnaire, at La Maison 1888 at the Intercontinental Hotel in Da Nang. Fresh ingredients – check. Chef laser-focused on your dining experience – check. Food created inline with a vision of culinary excellence – of course. In a recent interview, the chef said, “The InterContinental and I share a vision. The menu is a link between my philosophy, my style of cooking and this country.”

And not only is the food a veritable Venn diagram of cultures and tastes, but you can soak up some pretty serious historical vibes from the setting. The architecture of La Maison 1888 honors the French colonial style; French doors and pastel stucco keep the inside cozy while ornate balustrades and sweeping views from long verandas give your regular ol’ spring rolls a touch of majesty.

For a break from local cuisine, Don’s Bistro in Ha Noi by famed Montreal-born Chef Don Berger is the place to head to. An impressive menu of international and fusion specialties is complemented with fine oysters, an extensive wine cellar and a selection of premium cigars. Overlooking West Lake, the views are only surpassed by the great personal service. Don’s a good friend of ours and we can set you up with a memorable dining experience.

In Sai Gon, Xu Restaurant serves up modern Vietnamese in a lavish contemporary setting. Opened by Bien Nguyen who started in the industry as a dishwasher at 15 years old before opening his first restaurant in Australia at the age of 23, Xu has pioneered some experimental treatments of traditional Vietnamese dishes, and has found growing acceptance and appreciation by the Vietnamese culinary world. This is a great place to enjoy a special occasion or just a great meal.

And finally, you won’t find a more authentic Vietnamese dining experience outside of the one provided by Ms. Vy. A third-generation cook raised in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Hoi An, she takes the recipes passed down through her family and serves them up in one of her four restaurants. Still not impressed by all that slicing, dicing and wrapping? What if we told you that she opened Hoi An’s first cooking school catering to foreigners, in 1994? And also how she was chosen by celebrity chef/famous grumpy person Gordon Ramsay to take him food shopping in Hoi An’s sprawling Ben Thanh Market. Clearly she’s an expert in bridging cultures with food, and Smiling Albino guests that fall under her tutelage are sure to get the special treatment, and one hell of a meal.

When it comes to Vietnam dining experiences, there is so much more to write about, but these five options give you a small taste of what’s available. From narrow back alleys to sprawling French mansions, if you’re a fan of food in all its forms, Vietnam is now the place to be. Let us show you!

(see our related blog on the rise in popularity of the humble vietnamese sandwich, Banh Mi)

The post Vietnam Dining Experiences Reach New Heights first appeared on Smiling Albino.

In Southeast Asia, almost all drinking water and ice (and certainly all on a Smiling Albino trip) come from modern factories using treated water.  The main reason for this is no different from anywhere else – economics.  Ice from a homemade freezer simply can’t compete with the economies of scale and brand reputation of a large ice factory.  Check the brand and the seal on your bottle of water, and look for the cylinder shape of purified ice – you’ll have no problems.  Water from the tap is not recommended for drinking, but is fine for showering and heaving at your friends during Songkran.

While caution is warranted when you’re out on your own, the restaurants that Smiling Albino choose for our guests are outstanding.  They all use excellent ingredients and hygiene, taking care even whether the meals are served at the Peninsula Hotel or on the banks of the Mekong.  When dining on your own look for the food to be cooked fresh from ingredients you can see.  If you have the chance, try a meal from a cart – you’ll rarely have the same opportunity to inspect the kitchen for cleanliness.   

Remember, if you over-spice your food or haven’t yet gotten used to the local flora, you may experience some mild discomfort.  But, there’s always a dish that will help get you back into trip shape.  From our experience, if you eat with good sense you’re more likely to get ill at a Mediterranean resort than from a Bangkok noodle stand.

When eating out anywhere, extra care is needed if you have serious allergies, especially if you’re sensitive to ingredients common in local cooking. Across Southeast Asia, food allergies are generally less well known and differ from typical sensitivities in North America and Europe.  While shellfish allergies are more familiar, peanuts are not a significant concern and aren’t separated during food preparation. If you have a severe peanut allergy, your server or cook may not understand the risks. Learn the ingredient name and the word allergy in the local language.  Even better, get us to write “I am very allergic to peanuts” on a card, or in your phone.  You can pull it out when you’re ordering to ensure you are clearly understood, and get your dish exactly as you expect.

Southeast Asian cuisine rivals the best from around the world.  Enjoy the complexity and pleasure of a six  course dinner with the perfect mix of salty, sweet, sour and heat.  Take a chance on eel soup, dried cuttlefish, or a rich red curry.  Savour simple rice soup at breakfast or freshly picked bananas during your bike ride.  If there is a place to try new food experiences, Southeast Asia is it.   Keeping in mind a few simple rules makes a world of difference and ensures that you’re ready for every delectable bite.

Enquire here about our culinary tours in the region. Bon appetit!

The post The Lowdown on Food and Water in Southeast Asia first appeared on Smiling Albino.