“Somtum: crunchy, juicy, fresh, and strangely addictive ”

Located a stone’s throw from the Golden Mount temple and just six minutes’ walk from Phanfa Bridge boat terminal, a trip to this much-loved, half a century old pad Thai institution makes a great end to a cultural day trip. Order a heaped plate of their signature egg pad Thai for 60THB (US$2) and enjoy. For a slightly elevated version of the classic, check out Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu (Opus Building, 139 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 10:00-2:00) on trendy Thonglor. Here Thai-American chef Andy Yang jazzes things up with the addition of Berkshire pork for lip-smacking results. Priced at 90THB (US$3), it may be a slight hike on your standard 30-40THB (US$1+) street versions, but it’s well worth it for the quality. 

Next up, something a little more rooted in Thai culture: somtum. If you’ve never heard of it, you’ll soon be aware of its presence when wandering the streets of Bangkok. Widely considered Thailand’s true national dish, this salad is comprised of crunchy strips of unripe, green papaya, juicy tomatoes, fresh long beans, chewy dried prawns, fish sauce, chilies, palm sugar, garlic, peanuts and lime for a strangely addictive and uniquely Thai mix of sweet, salty, spicy and sour. There’s no better place to get a taste for it than at northeast-native restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge’s Somtum Der (5 Saladaeng Road. Open daily 11-14:30; 16:30-22:30). Now with branches in as far flung places as Tokyo and New York – the latter of which held a Michelin star for a time – the original shop-house still stands on Sala Daeng, serving up a dizzying menu of 20 somtum varieties (from 55THB/US$1.80) alongside other classic Isaan (northern Thai) dishes. Try the somtum moo yang (papaya salad with grilled pork neck, 85THB/US$2.75). 

Expat: So, you’ve had your fill of somtum and are well versed in the intricacies of pad Thai. Now it’s time to delve a little deeper and discover the wealth of delicacies that Thailand has to offer. From street food to fine dining, regional specialties to country-wide favourites, there is almost limitless ground to explore. So, where to start? The northern staple, khao soi, seems a pretty good option. With its roots in Chinese-Muslim culture, this rich, spicy and coconutty curry-based noodle dish is traditionally served with chicken and is topped with incredible crispy egg noodles. Though sourcing a decent rendition outside the Lanna (northern) capital of Chiang Mai can be tricky, you’ll find an excellent attempt at Ong Tong Khao Soi (17 Phahonyothin Soi 7. Open daily 10:30-20:30) in Bangkok’s Ari area. Order the khao soi gai (chicken, 70 THB/US$2.30) and enjoy. 

Now you’ve got a taste of the north, it’s time to travel south and head to Baan Ice (115 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 11:00-22:00). Helmed by Supaksorn Jongsiri – also of what is currently Bangkok’s most difficult-to-book restaurant Sorn – here you can get a taste of his delicious stir-fried prawns with sataw beans (330THB/US$7.10) and khua kling moo (spicy, dry stir-fried pork with curry paste. 180THB/US$5.80) without the months-long wait list. An equally excellent place to sample the wonders of southern fare is Khua Kling Pak Sod (various locations. Original branch at 21/32 Sukhumvit Soi 23. Open daily 11:00-22:30). So, loosen your belt buckle and dig in. 

On that note, though street food and Bangkok are practically synonymous, the city’s burgeoning fine dining culture is not to be overlooked. If you can’t get a table at Sorn (2700 THB/US$87 for a five-course menu), spend 3590 THB (US$116) at Le Du and you’ll be treated to six awesome courses of dainty tasting portions of expertly executed modern Thai cuisine. This is a chance to experience Thai food on a whole new level and is not to be missed – even if it means scrimping on 40 THB street food meals for the rest of your trip!

The post Tourist vs Expat: Must Eat Dishes in Bangkok first appeared on Smiling Albino.

There are few Asian foods with identities as closely tied to their home country than Pho, the Vietnamese national dish made with rice noodles, meat, and broth seasoned with various types of herbs and spices. Not bad for a dish that only originated in the early 20th century. The dish has gone through various iterations since then, and is now available on every street corner in every village in the country. Which, obviously, is great news.

The first thing to keep in mind is that westerners have butchered the name – it’s no pronounced fow but actually fuhh. Remember that – if one can’t even make an honest attempt at the name of a dish, they’re forbidden from eating it (Smiling Albino rule #28).

While wandering around HCMC looking at temples and drinking strong coffee, we’ve sampled all types of pho, from crowded restaurants to single-chef food stalls. Most of the time it’s simply about the noodles, but there are other things to consider – atmosphere, crowd, and overall look of the place, too. So while no two tastes, moods, days, or personal tastes are ever alike, here are four places you’ll never have to work hard to convince us to go back to.

Pho Le
413-414 Nguyen Trai Street P.7,Q5

One of the more popular places in the city to pull up a stool, the giant neon sign over the door doesn’t just say Pho Le, it screams PHO LE! You know you’ve found a good place, too, when the crowd oozes out on the sidewalk and even into the street. Many of the ingredients are made by hand, and it’s what keeps people coming back for more, locals and tourists alike.

Pho Quynh
323 Pham Ngu Lao

There are a few locations of this Saigon mainstay, but we love the (very) bright yellow building just across from Pham Ngu Lao Park. Cheap and known for its large portion sizes and long open hours, the decor isn’t much but the food is pretty awesome. Load your pho up with veggies too, like fresh basil and lots of bean sprouts, to bring out the taste. We usually finish things off with banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich using French bread), which are also really good.

Ben Thanh Market
Bến Thành, Quận 1

One of the city’s biggest and most popular markets is, no surprise, a great place to try some local food. Talented chefs whip up thousands of bowls of pho every day to feed hungry shoppers, and as it’s a tourist hotspot, many of the menus are in English. There are a lot of dishes to choose from – some of them largely unknown to tourists – but stick with the pho and you can’t go wrong.

Phở Thanh Bình
18B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
District 3

Just a few blocks away from the Saigon Zoo, this is the place we head to when we want some upscale noodles. Hefty portions and really tender beef make every trip worthwhile, not to mention piles of veggies for garnish and some great side dishes you won’t find anywhere else. Prices here are more expensive than almost anywhere else, and if you asked them why they’d likely say it was because their noodles are the best in Vietnam. But, there’s an (unsubstantiated) rumor that if you get sick from eating here, they’ll pay your medical bills. It’s hard to argue with that.

Related links

Vietnam: North, South and the Middle

Snooping Around Saigon

The post Four Great Pho Joints in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) first appeared on Smiling Albino.