The post A Beginner’s Guide to Bangkok Street Food​ first appeared on Smiling Albino.

“Somtum: crunchy, juicy, fresh, and strangely addictive ”

Located a stone’s throw from the Golden Mount temple and just six minutes’ walk from Phanfa Bridge boat terminal, a trip to this much-loved, half a century old pad Thai institution makes a great end to a cultural day trip. Order a heaped plate of their signature egg pad Thai for 60THB (US$2) and enjoy. For a slightly elevated version of the classic, check out Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu (Opus Building, 139 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 10:00-2:00) on trendy Thonglor. Here Thai-American chef Andy Yang jazzes things up with the addition of Berkshire pork for lip-smacking results. Priced at 90THB (US$3), it may be a slight hike on your standard 30-40THB (US$1+) street versions, but it’s well worth it for the quality. 

Next up, something a little more rooted in Thai culture: somtum. If you’ve never heard of it, you’ll soon be aware of its presence when wandering the streets of Bangkok. Widely considered Thailand’s true national dish, this salad is comprised of crunchy strips of unripe, green papaya, juicy tomatoes, fresh long beans, chewy dried prawns, fish sauce, chilies, palm sugar, garlic, peanuts and lime for a strangely addictive and uniquely Thai mix of sweet, salty, spicy and sour. There’s no better place to get a taste for it than at northeast-native restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge’s Somtum Der (5 Saladaeng Road. Open daily 11-14:30; 16:30-22:30). Now with branches in as far flung places as Tokyo and New York – the latter of which held a Michelin star for a time – the original shop-house still stands on Sala Daeng, serving up a dizzying menu of 20 somtum varieties (from 55THB/US$1.80) alongside other classic Isaan (northern Thai) dishes. Try the somtum moo yang (papaya salad with grilled pork neck, 85THB/US$2.75). 

Expat: So, you’ve had your fill of somtum and are well versed in the intricacies of pad Thai. Now it’s time to delve a little deeper and discover the wealth of delicacies that Thailand has to offer. From street food to fine dining, regional specialties to country-wide favourites, there is almost limitless ground to explore. So, where to start? The northern staple, khao soi, seems a pretty good option. With its roots in Chinese-Muslim culture, this rich, spicy and coconutty curry-based noodle dish is traditionally served with chicken and is topped with incredible crispy egg noodles. Though sourcing a decent rendition outside the Lanna (northern) capital of Chiang Mai can be tricky, you’ll find an excellent attempt at Ong Tong Khao Soi (17 Phahonyothin Soi 7. Open daily 10:30-20:30) in Bangkok’s Ari area. Order the khao soi gai (chicken, 70 THB/US$2.30) and enjoy. 

Now you’ve got a taste of the north, it’s time to travel south and head to Baan Ice (115 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]. Open daily 11:00-22:00). Helmed by Supaksorn Jongsiri – also of what is currently Bangkok’s most difficult-to-book restaurant Sorn – here you can get a taste of his delicious stir-fried prawns with sataw beans (330THB/US$7.10) and khua kling moo (spicy, dry stir-fried pork with curry paste. 180THB/US$5.80) without the months-long wait list. An equally excellent place to sample the wonders of southern fare is Khua Kling Pak Sod (various locations. Original branch at 21/32 Sukhumvit Soi 23. Open daily 11:00-22:30). So, loosen your belt buckle and dig in. 

On that note, though street food and Bangkok are practically synonymous, the city’s burgeoning fine dining culture is not to be overlooked. If you can’t get a table at Sorn (2700 THB/US$87 for a five-course menu), spend 3590 THB (US$116) at Le Du and you’ll be treated to six awesome courses of dainty tasting portions of expertly executed modern Thai cuisine. This is a chance to experience Thai food on a whole new level and is not to be missed – even if it means scrimping on 40 THB street food meals for the rest of your trip!

The post Tourist vs Expat: Must Eat Dishes in Bangkok first appeared on Smiling Albino.

But here’s the good news – street food in Bangkok will not be banned. Stricter regulations are certainly a possibility, but an outright ban? Pshaw, we say!

As is often the case in Thailand, sweeping pronouncements from the powers that be are usually meant to fix, improve, or better daily life in some way. However, not every idea is as thoroughly vetted as perhaps it should be, and vocal opposition often forces Thailand’s government to put plans on pause and have a rethink.

In this case, the proposal was meant to combat the unruly sidewalks of Thailand’s capital, which are often clogged with food carts and pop-up restaurants of all types, but the announcement didn’t go over so well with Bangkok’s hungry masses.

Simply put, street food is part of a Bangkokian’s DNA. It’s part of the city’s character, and plays a big role in how people move, shop, socialize, and work. Everyone from young families to motorcycle taxi drivers to retirees to drunken college students to hungry tourists depend on cheap, easy-to-find street food, and to get rid of it in one fell swoop would not be a very wise move.

So, mere hours after the headlines were printed, the government stated that it never wanted an outright ban, but instead wanted to look at regulating and licensing the thousands of food stalls that dot the city. When you think about it from this angle, it makes more sense; as much as we love a street food feast, we can’t deny that Bangkok’s food sellers have gotten pretty brazen in their appropriation of the city’s sidewalks.

In addition to this, people often forget that not all Thai street food is sold from carts on the sidewalks of busy streets. There are many, many sois and side streets lined with shop houses, restaurants, and mobile carts that will not be affected by any new regulations – whatever they may be. Neighborhoods like Yaowarat (Chinatown), Pahurat (little India), Victory Monument, Ari, and many others will continue to serve up a stunning variety of food, even if they are required to tighten things up a bit.

So have no fear! The old adage of never being more than a stone’s throw away from a street food experience in Bangkok will remain true. Of course, it helps when you have a Smiling Albino guide leading you to the best (and often undiscovered) spots in the city to eat, but even if you just enjoy wandering by yourself, Bangkok will never disappoint when it comes to enjoying its famous culinary delights.

The post What’s Up With Bangkok’s Street Food “Ban”? first appeared on Smiling Albino.

Smiling Albino provides insider access experience.

Which would you prefer – front row seats at a Rolling Stones concert, or a fold up chair in the corner where you can only view the band from an oblique angle?

It’s a no-brainer, right? Of course the front row seats are obviously better. That is… unless the fold-up is backstage and you’re sitting next to Neil Young and Bono who are enjoying the show with you.

I hesitate to compare a Smiling Albino adventure with backstage access at a Rolling Stones concert, for we’re far less noisy, however I think you understand the point. Often times, it’s more than just getting off the beaten track that leads to a more memorable experience.

Over a decade ago, when we first started planning our Smiling Albino experiences, we asked ourselves what events in life are truly memorable, and why? What is it that gives an experience impact and value?

We’ve found that in our time of on-the-ground planning and delivering trips for our friends and guests that the best experiences are usually a blend of both visited –  and less-visited – sites woven together into tasty brew of “seeing the sites” and experiencing the culture through the eyes of a local, and with a little creative flair added in, just for the memories.

Some outstanding experiences we have delivered recently:

– a private art tour hosted by one of Vietnam’s former Communist Art Police agents

– family bamboo raft building, then cruising it downriver in Northern Thailand

– A street-food adventure via motor-scooter and tuk-tuk in lesser known corners of Old Bangkok

For some, a holiday is checking items off of someone else’s list of things that they would like to see or do. Smiling Albino adds the insider access that oils the machinery of a great trip and ensures that in addition to those highlights, you also have something quite unique and memorable to bring home with you. Contact us today to find out how we can tailor an experience for you that you’ll be talking about for years to come, backstage, or otherwise.

Daniel B. Fraser

Adventure Highlights

From our Blog: Naypyidaw: Capital City Built from the Ground Up

Naypyidaw: Capital City Built from the Ground Up

Myanmar is a land that’s been essentially cut off from the world for the better part of five decades. Over the past few years, much has been written about its first official steps into the 21st century as the military slowly (sloooowly) loosens control on media, politics, and travel. Read more…

Dan spent a week in Myanmar in July finalizing the finishing touches for our newest tour edition “Asia’s Golden Land”. First adventure will happen this November! See full itinerary here. Contact Smiling Albino for inquiries and questions!

What’s Going On

Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014

Held for the first time by The Big Chilli magazine and networking community Bangkok Now (BNow), the awards recognise expat-established companies for their creativity, ingenuity, excellence and success. Smiling Albino’s very own Daniel Fraser has been selected as a candidate. Check out his “Nomination VDO” here…

Destination Thailand Coming to Toronto Sept. 14

Destination Thailand is the first Thai Festival to take place in Toronto’s world famous Yonge-Dundas Square this coming September 14. Smiling Albino’s Dan Fraser is honoured to emcee the event which will showcase the best Thailand has to offer to the Canadians and tourists from around the world. The event will feature famous Thai food from local restaurants, Muay Thai, traditional Thai Dance, exotic fresh Thai fruits, Thai handicrafts, authentic Thai massage, world class Thai beer, live entertainments, lucky draws, and much more. Please visit Destination Thailand on facebook at www.facebook.com/DestinationThailandToronto

What’s Coming Up…

Smiling Albino is offering three new and innovative Southeast Asia travel experiences.

Since 1999, Smiling Albino has been crafting memorable travel experiences in Southeast Asia and Nepal by capitalizing on local knowledge and personal connections. This year, Smiling Albino is offering three new and innovative tours for the active, luxury travel market: Multi-transport adventure through Myanmar, Insider’s Access SE Asia, and Luxury Train & Bike Adventures. These new experiences have been made possible by recent travel ban relaxations in Myanmar, new luxury en-suite train cars in Thailand and Smiling Albino’s tireless search for new and interesting local characters throughout the region. The Insider’s Access experiences feature everything from art discovery in Hanoi with a former communist art policeman, to market tours with acclaimed chefs in Bangkok, to walking tours of Phnom Penh with foreign and local journalists, to aerial discovery of outer Angkor with expert cartographers, to name but a few.

Contact Smiling Albino for inquiries and questions!

Connect With Smiling Albino!

Facebook and Twitter: “Like” and “follow” us on Facebook and Twitter and you will get tuned-in to the latest breaking news and hot tips on travel and adventure in Asia. Planet Asia Travel Channel: Subscribe to the Planet Asia Travel Channel and receive expert advice and insider tips on travel in Asia from the team at Smiling Albino and our network of in-the-know locals, expatriates, and travel enthusiasts. NEW on Google+ and Pinterest: Now even easier to connect and stay up to date with us! Contact: Get a hold of us any time.

The post More Experiences with Insider Access! – Albino Smiles August 2014 first appeared on Smiling Albino.

There are few Asian foods with identities as closely tied to their home country than Pho, the Vietnamese national dish made with rice noodles, meat, and broth seasoned with various types of herbs and spices. Not bad for a dish that only originated in the early 20th century. The dish has gone through various iterations since then, and is now available on every street corner in every village in the country. Which, obviously, is great news.

The first thing to keep in mind is that westerners have butchered the name – it’s no pronounced fow but actually fuhh. Remember that – if one can’t even make an honest attempt at the name of a dish, they’re forbidden from eating it (Smiling Albino rule #28).

While wandering around HCMC looking at temples and drinking strong coffee, we’ve sampled all types of pho, from crowded restaurants to single-chef food stalls. Most of the time it’s simply about the noodles, but there are other things to consider – atmosphere, crowd, and overall look of the place, too. So while no two tastes, moods, days, or personal tastes are ever alike, here are four places you’ll never have to work hard to convince us to go back to.

Pho Le
413-414 Nguyen Trai Street P.7,Q5

One of the more popular places in the city to pull up a stool, the giant neon sign over the door doesn’t just say Pho Le, it screams PHO LE! You know you’ve found a good place, too, when the crowd oozes out on the sidewalk and even into the street. Many of the ingredients are made by hand, and it’s what keeps people coming back for more, locals and tourists alike.

Pho Quynh
323 Pham Ngu Lao

There are a few locations of this Saigon mainstay, but we love the (very) bright yellow building just across from Pham Ngu Lao Park. Cheap and known for its large portion sizes and long open hours, the decor isn’t much but the food is pretty awesome. Load your pho up with veggies too, like fresh basil and lots of bean sprouts, to bring out the taste. We usually finish things off with banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich using French bread), which are also really good.

Ben Thanh Market
Bến Thành, Quận 1

One of the city’s biggest and most popular markets is, no surprise, a great place to try some local food. Talented chefs whip up thousands of bowls of pho every day to feed hungry shoppers, and as it’s a tourist hotspot, many of the menus are in English. There are a lot of dishes to choose from – some of them largely unknown to tourists – but stick with the pho and you can’t go wrong.

Phở Thanh Bình
18B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
District 3

Just a few blocks away from the Saigon Zoo, this is the place we head to when we want some upscale noodles. Hefty portions and really tender beef make every trip worthwhile, not to mention piles of veggies for garnish and some great side dishes you won’t find anywhere else. Prices here are more expensive than almost anywhere else, and if you asked them why they’d likely say it was because their noodles are the best in Vietnam. But, there’s an (unsubstantiated) rumor that if you get sick from eating here, they’ll pay your medical bills. It’s hard to argue with that.

Related links

Vietnam: North, South and the Middle

Snooping Around Saigon

The post Four Great Pho Joints in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) first appeared on Smiling Albino.